Camry :: 2007 SE - Occasional Hard Start
Jun 30, 2012
My Dad owns a 2007 Camry SE with the 2.4 l4 engine. Occasionally most of the time in heat it is sometimes hesitant to start. It will start always on the first try but sometimes the key has to be held longer to get it started mostly though in the summer when its hot out. For example he parks a little after six in the morning at work. He don't get in the car until 5 to 5:30 in the evening. You know then it has been in the heat a while. He says it rarely happens. He also said it's not like a slow crank if something had been left on to drain the battery. It's just the key has to sometimes be held longer than normal for it to start. It's not very likely but this has happened once or twice in the winter time also.
I know the car does still have the original battery. It starts fine in the winter when cold. This hard start deal happened a few weeks ago after work also. I know out of the other toyota's he has had they have done this every once in a while to. I really myself don't think it is anything to worry about. I am just asking what might cause it to do that sometime. I would say nearly 98% percent of the time though it will start normal. This has kinda always happened since we got the car used in March 2010. I hadn't thought about much though since it rarley happens cause most of the time as I said above it will start normal.
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My 2012 Toyota Camry SE V6. 37,500 miles. Occasionally when I'm parked shifting down to reverse it's so tight/put effort to shift & it literally thumps the entire car.. I heard to put the E-BRAKE/PARKING BRAKE down BEFORE shifting it to park & it worked but occasionally even with the E-BRAKE/PARKING BRAKE it still jerks the entire car going from PARK to REVERSE.
Also going from REVERSE to NEUTRAL it gives off a little vibration underneath me ALL THE TIME going from REVERSE to NEUTRAL.. I know these are so many questions that are probably a no-brainer answer but I'm looking to see if any one here had/has or heard of a similar or exact problem. Is the trans fluid low or dirty? I saw the CARFAX I didn't see the services he's done it's only been 1 owner on this car I'm the second. Previous owner leased it brand new.
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Occasionally, when restarting my 2003 Santa Fe V6,it refuses to idle. If I manually press on accelerator pedal it will start and run and after a few moments it will run fine. This seems to happen more often in high temps i.e., deserts.
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My truck's been having an occasional hard start, meaning the engine cranks strong but it fails to catch and then sputters. The 2nd start attempt usually fires up with no issues and then runs perfectly otherwise.
MPG's haven't changed, fuel filter was changed 15K ago. Air filter is clean. Plugs were changed about 10K ago. I always use Shell/Chevron gas. MAF sensor looked clean when I took it out so I didn't do anything to it.
This is starting to happen more frequently, maybe once every few weeks and I get a feeling it's the start of something. I've found myself waiting a few seconds for the fuel pressure gauge to come up before turning the key to start reliably. In the past, I could simply flick the key and it fires up the first time.
I see posts talking about the fuel pump module above the spare tire. What are symptoms of that going bad? Any pending codes that might be stored?
I'm about to get myself a scanner since I need one sooner or later. Which specific PID's to check while debugging this?
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2006 solara. Just changed both belts. Occasional 1 sec squeal on start. Both belts appear tight.
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If I brake hard a dozen times, 8 or 9 will be normal, a couple times it will pull to the right but as long as your hands are on the wheel you can barely tell, and maybe once it will pull really hard. I have Hawk super duty pads and Ebc rotors with less than 5k on them and I just replaced the front calipers and hardware because I thought that was the problem.
It's not even consistent. Could possibly be rear calipers (rear also has new Hawk pads and Ebc rotors with less than 3k on them) but I don't think it would pull that hard. Tire pressure is even between sides btw.
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2002 AVH Jetta Wagon. When I got the car back in 2012 it had 121K and I changed the wires (ngk blue 57021) and plugs (ngk platinum) and she drove like a dream. A couple of months later I started having issues with wet weather and moisture causing misfires so I did the JB WELD fix and though I'd still get the occasional misfire in hard rains it lasted me pretty much until very recently, when I decided I needed to put in a new coil because the problem was getting worse (hardly starting up after a rain and bucking wildly till things dried out). Yesterday, I replaced the BERU with a new HUCO and the car started up fine and drove fine all day. I think there was a lot of moisture in the air last night and possibly some rain but this morning, SAME PROBLEM with a new coil. Misfiring like crazy, no acceleration.
I thought the NGK wires and plugs I got were rated to last beyond 20,000 miles. At this point should I assume the wires are to blame? Split somewhere or something? It's definitely related to water and the electrical system.
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I have a 4 cylinder 2000 Ford Contour 133k miles
I've only driven the car for about 2 months, Ive never had an issue with it until yesterday other than an occasional hard shift when driving the car hard. Yesterday when I dropped the car in drive it wouldn't pull at all, I sat in my apartments parking lot continually revving the car high in drive but it wont do anything, its like the car is in neutral. Reverse works and I can drive by manually shifting from first to second and then putting the car in drive, but if I put it into drive before reaching 3rd gear it jumps back to neutral.
I checked the linkage, and the lever it connects to on the transmission; when put into drive the position of the lever coincides with the neutral position. I called a few local transmission shops and they diagnosed is as a broken sprag, but from reading online it seems like it could be a clogged transmission filter or a faulty transmission range sensor. Prior to this issue I would sometimes here a whistle coming from under the hood when driving, I didn't know until today that a whistle is indicative of a vacuum leak, but wouldn't it throw on my check engine light? I have checked my transmission fluid, its at the correct level and is a nice cherry red, it doesn't have any bad or burnt odor.
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I have a 2007 Camry SE 4 cyl. Sometimes under hard acceleration the car seems to lag. I have about 64K miles on the car.
When is it recommended to have a spark plug replacement? Will a tune-up work to liven up the car a little better?
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On my 2006 Azera Limited with about 27,000 miles on it. Occasional hard shift issue. Normally the car is only driven 10 miles a day to and from work no problem. But on longer trips have hard a few instances of hard shift.
The first time this hard shift bump occurred was when I was driving on city streets 2 minutes after getting off the freeway after a 2 hour drive. On a scale of 1-10 this was a #5 bump like feel followed by a #3 bump in the next few minutes while accelerating from a signal light. There were no further bumps that day, even after another 2 freeway drive.
The second time the #3 bump happened was on an on ramp after a 3 hour freeway drive and a short rest stop. No further bumps that day even after another 3 hour freeway drive.
The last time this #3 bump happened was on a city street after a 45 minute freeway drive. No further bumps on the return trip. I am not sure which gears this bump happens between.
I have no MIL set. So I took it too a transmission shop and they could not find anything wrong but said there was a code C1616 CAN Bus Off Failure. His opinion was that this problem maybe an electrical issue.
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My 1995 Isuzu Rodeo began stalling when braked/stopped. The car would continue running only if the gas pedal was lightly pushed, keeping the flow going. I treated it with Seafoam and water remover and the problem went away for week. Now it will stall, then refuse to start for a period of time. When attempting to start the Rodeo a loud 'strangled' sound is sometimes heard, then nothing. Try again a few minutes later and the car starts and the ride home over the next mile is smooth. My untrained guess points to a bad starter. I also believe there were two problems at the same time, one being junk in the fuel line, perhaps a loose battery connection as a contributor, then a starter problem.
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I have a 2007 Camry SE V6. Under moderate to hard acceleration, it sounds like a deep throaty sound coming from where the intake/throttle body is located, almost as if I have a SRI, but I do not. I checked for anything loose, hoses, airbox, etc. Then checked the intake resonator below and to the left of the battery, all seemed normal. Everything seems normal! Only happens when I push the accelerator a little more than usual, for example, when I go on the highway.
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My wife's van just had an issue. Of course this happens when I am about to go in a business trip. Let me start by saying that we have never had a problem with this van. It now has around 75,000 miles on it, and was last driven yesterday. We went to start it up this morning, and it was very difficult to get running. If you wanted to stall, (had to keep my foot on the gas and I could tell the motor was missing), but I'm more concerned with the metallic top end tapping the motor was making. It sounded like a bad valve tap so I turned the motor off , checked the oil level to make sure I did not leak the oil out (last checked three days ago when I got gas). The level was fine, so I started the motor again.. ran the same but this time cleared up and ran fine with in 10 seconds. The noise went away and it ran smooth as silk again. Turned it on and off a few times and it was fine each time. My wife is driving it now and says it feels fine. The motor it self is still under warranty but not the ignition or fuel parts.
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2007 Santa Fe, hard to start after fueling up, after that one time it cranks fine until I fuel up again.
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Just to start off im new to the camry family.I have a 2007 camry se. Well the the problem I am having is when i make a sharp turn or hit on the brakes hard my oil light flashes. Didn't know if this is a big problem or something small. the light flashes and goes rite back off.
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My Camry has 185,809 miles on the 4 cylinder, it has recently started to be hard to start when it's at operating temperature, has code P0301 and p0302 replaced spark plugs at 185,000 miles no change, possibly ignition coils?
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Recently, I have a weird issue on my car starting problem, 2005 I4. This happened after I replaced the upper engine mount (dog bone). When I left my car parked overnight and try to start in the morning, it makes a very slow start (Ruff Ruff noise). I have to tap on the gas a bit to get it starts. All the lights are still bright when I get to the car in the morning. The car has no issue at all when starts it during daytime or when I park car at work (about 8 hrs.). I checked and cleaned the ground terminals and make sure everything is tight.
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I have 2002 camry V6, I did a battery replacement few months ago. It gave me hard time to start, cranking but will not ru,. I did clean the throttle body and was fine. I left the car for few days, came back will not start,you hear the starter but no cranking, a neighbor mechanic kept starting and did start. He said it needs tuning. The car has 104 k miles on it.
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I have a 2010 Toyota Camry LE V4 version, it has about 47k miles on it and about 4.5 yrs old. I have developed a problem over the past few months where the car will crank fine in the morning or when cold (sitting around for several hours or overnight) However if the car is Warm when driven for about 10 miles or more, then parked and then started again in 15-20 minutes it will feel hesitant to start, seems like it takes several cranks before starting and literally feels like it will die while cranking but it will eventually start.
i have the original stock battery, i got it checked at O'Reilly and they confirmed that battery, stater, alternator looked good and cold cranking amps looked good and other items checked out as well fine.
I am not sure what the issue might be at this time, However since the problem is at random and only when outside is like a 100F (which it is not now) and it is warm/hot (driven after 10+ miles), i am not sure what is wrong with the car. I have been using Top Tier gas for the most part, however i had used Arco for about 3-4 months during the Spring/Summer of 2013.
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I have a 2000 Camry Solara V6 with about 108K miles on it. The car has recently started to give the following problem: The car starts without any problem in the morning and runs smoothly. There is no problem while the engine is in idle mode. The problem starts when after driving for a while I shut the engine, say for filling in gas. When I try to start the engine again the engine will start, idle for a couple of seconds and then die.
The engine doesn't keep on running in idle mode. I can keep the engine running by pressing on the accelerator and keeping the rpm above 1000. Once I drive for a few feet then the engine doesn't die even if I idle at a stop light. This generally happens only after I shut the engine after having driven the car for a few miles and then start the engine again within the next 20 minutes. The battery is in good condition. Any clues on what the problem may be?
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The vehicle has 80,000kms, and from a cold start it is having this problem more and more frequently. I must crank the engine 3+ times, and then she starts. A prolonged cranking period doesn't seem to work, and this only occurs when cold. The car starts fine when warmed up. I have scanned the car with a generic OBD2 reader and there are no codes. Once the car is running, it runs great with no misfires.
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