Camry :: 2007 SE JBL System - Buzzing On All Speakers When AMP Receive Power
Apr 11, 2016
Recently bought a 07 Camry Se with the JBL system in it. The stereo had no sound and after checking I found that the 25amp fuse under the hood was missing. I replaced it and as soon as the amp received power it started buzzing in all speakers. I was able to stop the buzzing by unplugging the connector on left of the blue connector in the middle of the amp. That connector seem to control the rear deck speakers. I now have clear sound from the front speakers but nothing from the back. So question I have is does this sound like more of an Amp problem or speaker problem?
One more note I also found that the rear trunk torsion bar clip was broken, from what I have read these bars can cause a short on the rear speaker if they touch the speaker would that cause a speaker or amp to blow?
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I recently installed my satellite radio in my work truck. The truck is a 1999 Ford Louisville, tandem axle straight truck. I'm using the aux input on the stereo to connect to the satellite receiver. I'm getting a lot of buzzing thru the speakers. Gets worse when I'm using the phone charger and blower fan. I have it setup the exact same way in my other work truck which is a 2007 freighliner and have no issues. Is there any type of filter or something to solve the situation.
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Noticed buzzing or slight static noises from the speakers? I have the '12 Camry V6 SE with JBL. Typically I can put the volume up and you do hear it, but if on a very low volume or even if the system is off I feel as if I'm hearing some kind of static or very low pitch noises coming from the speakers.
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Experiencing static noise coming from their 2013 Camry SE rear passenger speakers? The noise comes and goes. It depends on the road and the distance. I've had someone sit back there and it sounds like metal grinding or rubbing against each other. The noise is faint but can get annoying.
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I have a 2007 Lariat Screw
I've read that some people are replacing their door speakers like I want to do and reporting much better sound. My question is now that I realize I have the audiophile system, it is still worth swapping these speakers and will it be better sound? I bought 2 pairs of Pioneer TS-A6886R 6x8's.
I had a 98 Lexus GS 400 and I upgraded the stereo with an head unit, amp and all the door speakers and disconnected the subwoofer and actually liked how it sounded. I guess the upgraded speakers were so much better that the subwoofer wasn't needed.
So Should I try to bypass the factory tweeters and subwoofer and run everything into these newer supposedly better 4 way speakers in the door? Or just plug in the new speakers and let tem act as mid ranges?
BTW Do I need to remove entire door panel or just grills? It seems pretty straight forward for wiring. Anything I should know?
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Our 2009 SEL is equipped with the RNS-510 but no bluetooth. This is an early US model. Upon leaving for work yesterday and a few moments after openning the door to get inside the car, a buzzing static noise started playing from all of the speakers. Imagine white noise with a bee hive and that is the sound. The noise started before we put the key in the ignition. The noise stopped momentarily as we cranked the starter, but continued afterward. Turning on the RNS510 resulted in muffled sound like music inside a can on top of the static. Turning the unit on/off didn't change anything. Turning the motor on/off did nothing to change anything.
For the 20 minute drive to work the noise continued. My wife parked the car and the sound continued as she went into work. At the end of the day, upon returning to the vehicle the noise was gone and has not come back.
This is the second time in about 2 years this has happened. I scanned for codes and didn't get any. We have an iPhone video of it (not sure how to post that) to share at the next service. Currently the vehicle has 37,000 miles (relatively trouble free).
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My wife has a 2009 Accent base model. I recently heard a kind of buzzing from the speakers when the bass hits but it does not sound like they are blown, more like something is loose. How do I get to the speakers from above to check things out and see what it looks like?
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I have a 2007 Camry le 4 cylinder. When under a load on the highway there is an occasional buzzing that occurs when accelerating (sounds like a piece of metal vibrating at a high pitch). It only happens under about 3000 RPMs and the noise doesn't occur any other time (idle, reving the engine while idle, slow speeds, etc.). Today I got it up on a lift and checked all of the heat shields under the hood and around the exhaust under the car. Nothing seemed loose. I had two mechanics look at it and one thinks that the exhaust flex pipe is the culprit, while the other insists that this is a known issue with the resonator (said a small piece may have broken off of a baffle inside and is vibrating). Are either of these components well known to cause this type of issue? I'd rather not replace both if one is frequently the cause.
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Occasionally, when I play songs, I hear my speakers kind of buzzing, where they sound like they are going bad.
Its super annoying, but I can't think how to replicate it. Any way to show them or what should I do?
My warranty would cover this, right?
Also, if I have installed footwell LEDs, might they argue about that effecting my warranty or anything?
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I have a 2007 Camry le 4 cylinder. When under a load on the highway there is an occasional buzzing that occurs when accelerating (sounds like a piece of metal vibrating at a high pitch). It only happens under about 3000 RPMs and the noise doesn't occur any other time (idle, reving the engine while idle, slow speeds, etc.). Today I got it up on a lift and checked all of the heat shields under the hood and around the exhaust under the car. Nothing seemed loose. I had two mechanics look at it and one thinks that the exhaust flex pipe is the culprit, while the other insists that this is a known issue with the resonator (said a small piece may have broken off of a baffle inside and is vibrating). Are either of these components well known to cause this type of issue? I'd rather not replace both if one is frequently the cause.
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Bought the car used a few months ago with a little less than 72k miles. At 72k miles, I replaced all brake pads. Car now has 75k miles on it. Wife just got back from a 1k mile road trip with it.
I took it for a little ride, and noticed this problem about 3 times, it doesn't happen every time. There is no vibration or anything when slowing down and stopping. But, a few times, when the car was at, or almost at a complete stop, the brake pedal would feel like it was buzzing a little bit, and I could hear a springy sound. I tried to reproduce it with hard braking, but couldn't. Seemed to only happen with slow, gradual breaking, and when the car was just about at a complete stop. Brake fluid is full. No lights on dash. Asked my wife if she slammed breaks at all, or had any problems, she said no. Then she said she experienced what I did once, when she was at a rest area, stopped
The only thing I can think to compare it to is how the brake pedal feels and sounds if you lock up your brakes, and the ABS is doing its thing....which I haven't ever done with this car...
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I purchased a 2012 Yaris a few monthes ago, and experienced strange buzzing sounds from the back speakers (on the passenger doors) when playing music with deep low bass tones.
When checking the symptom carefully, it's very difficult to pinpoint the source of the buzzing - sometimes it comes from the doors' plastic, sometimes from the speaker area itself.
Again, this only happens in very low bass tones.
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Got the 2015 Sonata Limited 2.4 a few weeks back. One issue that I have encountered is that when I receive a phone call while driving I answer the call but neither me or the other person can hear the audio. I have to go to the phone screen- select the option to switch to private and then switch back to hands-free and then it works.
When I place calls it works as it should- it only does this when I receive a call.
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I have a 2012 GTI with the Dynaudio radio/navigation unit. The speakers/system distorts at less than half volume.
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So i've been having weird audio issues that seem to happen at random (three times in the past month), and have different symptoms. They all result in no sound coming from the speakers, however everything else functions properly. I can even switch audio sources and different tracks, but the audio system won't turn off and the volume won't change when changed on the steering wheel controls or by turning the knob. The first time this happened when i tried to turn off loudness and screen popped up that said the audio system was unavailable, this did not happen the second time. The problem fixes itself, when i turn off the engine take out the key and lock the car, and then start the engine again, it does not fix the problem. Only after i finish running the errand or park it in the garage does it function the next time i start the car up.
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I recently picked up and installed an OEM head unit for my 04 F350 XL SC/SB. This truck came with a basic AM/FM head unit and 2 front door speakers. Im not looking to do anything crazy, but now that I have a better head unit than just the AM/FM one I would like to wire in 2 more speakers in the rear doors. The rear doors already have the spots to install speakers, but I am assuming I will have to run wiring to the new head unit.
Will I have to find another plug to go from the new rear speakers to the head unit or is the single plug that is now running the radio have extra spots to accept 2 more speakers? This is the stock head unit. This is the better stock head unit
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Our Camry has the premium JBL system with the amp under the passenger seat. Any song regardless of source that has a lot of bass drives both rear speakers into distortion. Treble and mid and bass settings are on zero. Even when bass is set on -2 or -3, I still hear significant distortion especially when playing something like Queen, Enya, or with a lot of bass. Problem is there whether Aux input, CD or FM. Someone suggested adjusting gain on amp. How do I do that? And isn't it a stretch to think that would make any difference? Is the amp the most likely source of the problem?
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All speakers on the driver's side of the truck are now cutting out. They will play good for a while,but then they will just cut out completely without warning. If I open and shut the driver door, they start working again for a while but will cut out again. Last week, I noticed that the drivers side rear speaker sounded like it was busted (crackling audio coming from it), but I haven't had a chance to bring it in yet to the dealer. Is it possible that the bad speaker could be causing the problem? Could it be shorting and causing the system to cut out on that one side?
Also, if the speakers are connected in series from front to back? Just trying to figure how the shutting of the door has anything to do, with it. I was thinking a bad connection at the door speaker and, if the speakers are wired in series, that would cause all sound on the drivers side to cutout and maybe opening and shutting the door jostles the connection just enough to make it good for a little while longer. Also, I am entertaining the thought that maybe the rear speaker IS the problem and the air being compressed in the cabin from closing the door makes the cone move just enough to break the short in the speaker and let the sound be once more. Also, wondering if this may be a head unit issue. Lots of ifs....
How hard is it to get the door panel off to check those connections? Also, anyone remove the stock headunit from the dash? I looked at it real quick and am not sure how to even begin. Now, I have gotten into the dash of every other vehicle I have had, but this one has me intimidated because I don't know how all the Sync stuff is wired in or what. Need to remove the headunit and getting the door panel off. Also, hy the speakers are cutting out... BTW, stock headunit is navigation with Sync....
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Both my front door speakers are shot. They are blown and sound like crap. I need to replace them so which speakers to get. I would like to replace the rear extra cab door speakers as well.
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First time ford owner so am not familiar with any quirks in the vehicle. Anyhow, about a year ago I replaced the head unit for the previous owner without any problems. All my connections are good and I rechecked them this morning. The problem is all the rear speakers cut in and out for no particular reason.
I have tested this even with the engine off just on acc. I have manipulated the wiring harness in the dash and I can't make it cut out or in so I am inclined to think something is that triggers a relay near the center armrest is the source of the issue. That relay is switching every time but I have yet looked into that. Is this a common issue?
The vehicle just had the BCM (I think that's what it's called on a ford) replaced because of a similar random relay issue in the right kick fuse panel causing the headlights to randomly flicker.
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I have a 1999 F-350 crew cab. I have a fusion active bass tube in the back, and my family went to Tahoe, so I took out all the bass tube but the wires had to be left in the truck. I thought I capped the wires but I guess I didn't or the cap came off. Anyways, I was plugging the wires back into the bass tube when I got home and there was a big spark, I think the ground wire and the wire connected to the battery touched. Now the radio does not work at all. I'm guessing I blew a fuse, I don't know how to fix it, or what fuse that would need to be replaced.
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