Camry :: 2007 SE Cruise Control Switch Replacement
Feb 3, 2012
My girlfriend and I were riding in her 2007 Camry SE about a week ago on the highway. She pushed the button on the cruise control switch to turn it on, and the button popped out of the end of the stalk (it did not completely come out, but popped out about an inch). She pushed it back in, but it won't turn the cruise on now.
What all is involved in replacing this switch? I was assuming it was as simple as removing the bottom rear cover on the steering wheel and swapping it out, but I wanted to check beforehand.
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My wife has a 2009 Camry LE, 4cyl with approximately 63,000 miles on it. Yesterday when driving it, I went to turn the cruise control off and my finger slipped, causing the button to pop out. Both of us have tried to fix it and I know I tried at least three or four different ways to reinstall the little three prong copper piece and no luck. The cruise control still refuses to work.
Having problem with the button popping out and been able to fix it? If so, how did you fix it? I hope it's something simple, such as re-installing the copper piece a certain way.
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Ive had my Camry since around September of last year. It had between 100-110k miles at the time of purchase.
In the last 3 months, Ive started to notice that sometimes when I am on the road & switch on the cruise control, the setting appears to have trouble engaging. On some occasions the cruise control does not even switch on at all when I hit the "set" button, while at other times I can feel the setting turn on and off intermittently, while I feel the engine respond accordingly with more or less gas with each time it goes on and off.I can also see the cruise control light on my dashboard begin to flash on and off each time this happens.
This does not happen every time I drive, but I must say Ive never seen anything like this before in any other car Ive ever had, and I find whats happening here to be both very strange as well as very annoying.
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I have an 02 f150 5.4 and since I got it it hasn't had cruse control. I went to a local ford dealership and they ran the vin and didn't find any recall on it. Under the hood on the master cylinder there is brake fluid coming out of the brake control switch. Would I have to do something with the harness too?
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I own a 2007 Camry LE and one bulb behind the temperature dial is burned out. It is the bulb for the indicator on the outside edge of the dial. I am curious how to remove the panel and rotary dial to access and replace the bulb. I've searched the forums but cannot find a description with pictures (hope I didn't miss it somewhere).
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Cruise on/off works. Light on the dash. Some days pressing the "set" switch engages immediately. Other days, press it 20 times, nothing. Guessing switch contacts could use some cleaning/replacing. Service manual doesn't address how to pull the switch on the steering wheel...
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I think my cruise control switch is bad. Is there a simple way to remove it without taking of the steering wheel.
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The "Cruise Main" switch on my 2003 Honda Accord will not stay engaged. When I push it, the Cuise Main lights up in the dash board and I can operate cruise control, but when I release the Cruise Main switch it doesn't stay on. I've tried electrical tape to hold the switch in (holds for limited time), and am thinking about bypassing the switch altogether. I don't mind if the Cruise Main is on all the time. I know I could replace the switch, but am looking for a zero cost solution.
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So noticed my cruise control does not work when I turn switch to on position the green light in cluster does not come on what are some problems that I could look into and also any example of using turn signal Bulbs in the head lights as drl lights instead of it running off of the actually headlight bulb?
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I just discovered my cruise won't "SET" (light goes out after 1/2 second) anymore after having the brake light switch done yesterday.
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I bought a 2002 Excursion 2wd V10 at an auction with 105,000 miles. I've been working through the little problems and I'm down to one last small item.
The cruise control will not work. I found a thread to diagnose the problem. My diagnosis is:
After doing the self test I received: 3 flashes - deactivator switch is open or circuit defective.
What does this represent and what shall I do to correct it?
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The cruise control switch on my 2000 Ranger just broke. It looks like you have to remove the airbag to access it. How is that accessed? It looks like there are 2 plugs on the back of the wheel that need to be removed.
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I am looking to replace the audio-AC/Cruise switches on my 04 Excursion. I am having a hard time trying to determine if I need to remove the steering wheel. I have found posts for other Ford vehicles, but not the excursion or F250 with the larger switches.
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I took our '99 Mazda Protege in for a clutch replacement. The mileage is over 150k. The car was returned with the air bag light blinking and the cruise control and horn deactivated. All were fine beforehand. The shop eventually admitted that they could have broken the clockspring during the repair. They are going to get back to me tomorrow with a quote for the repair and they told me they are going to "work with me" on the cost. I don't understand why I should pay for anything associated with the clock spring repair. Another mechanic told me they had to secure the steering during the clutch replacement and probably forgot to do it, furthermore they should cover 100% of the repair.
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Looking for wiring diagram for the older Ford cruise control switches. I'm wanting to add an aftermarket system but use the factory switches. It's for a 99 ranger with the steering wheels like the mark 8s, older mustangs, explorers, and many others, had.
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I have a 2.4 camry with 1 big mystery. I can't get the cruise control to engage. I've tried everything, took it to toyota who put it on the computer, but nothing is showing, no faults anywhere, and i mean none, every switch for the cruise comes up as working fully and the light also comes on for it.
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I found two times the cruise control auto on by itself while I was driving on the road.
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Looking on replacing my Neutral Safety Switch. Shifting the Transmission began to get very hard to do, like the linkage was binding up. Pulled center console, latching mechanism unlocks when i apply the brake, was able to shift with much difficulty into reverse and now i can only get it to shift between reverse and neutral. It is all cable from shifter to transmission and the cable seems fine, no binding there that I can see. Got the nut off the trans linkage but can't get the shift arm to come off the rod and removed the 2 bolts on the safety switch but nothing wants to come apart. Just rusted on? Don't want to use the BFH and break anything.
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I have a question regarding my Camry. Is there any way the cruise control sesitivity can be adusted? When we are traveling at ~70 mph on interstate highways with rolling hills (e.g. MA Pike), the transmission downshifts nearly every time going up hill - sometimes dropping to 4th gear. To me, the cruise control is "too determined" to let the car speed decrease even 1 mph. I'm finding that quite annoying. I'd be happy to let the speed decline 2 - 3 mph to avoid the annoying downshifiting / upshifting on upgrades. I know that a 6 cyl wouldn't have this problem.
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So the problem occurs while I am driving with cruise control on . Suppose I am driving at the speed of 80mph with 1300rpm, few seconds after I come downhill the rpm shifts to 2000 and comes back to 1300. Now I understand that the rpm will increase as I go up in order to maintain the speed but this problem occurs once I come downhill
And today also while driving without cruise control on I experienced the similar problem. I got a SE V6.
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248K miles. At hwy speeds, acceleration is great. But when "gas" is slightly relaxed without moving foot (e.g. downhill or level not acceleration) experience slight hesitation. Happens in and out of cruise control. What might cause this? Fuel pump?
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