Camry :: 2007 Running Hot / AC Began To Get Warmer And Temp Gauge At H - Low Fluid
Jun 18, 2012
I have a 2007 Camry with the 4 cylinder engine and about 90,000 miles. I just changed the oil and took it for a test drive only to notice about 1/4 mile down the road it was running very hot. My a/c began to get warmer and my temperature gauge was at the "H". I pulled over and it immediately cooled back to normal operating temperature (in the middle of the gauge). The car was left running this entire time and I began my way back to my destination. It never ran that hot again but when I would slow down to an idle I noticed at times it would go up in temperature, but not as hot as before, and go back to normal temperatures. Sometimes during a drive it would fluctuate a little bit, but nothing as much as it would on the very start of running this car cold.
So I opened my hood and looked at the reservoir and noticed I do not see any fluid in there. I guess I should add that I have never flushed or changed the antifreeze b/c I did not know I would need to change it until recently at the 5 year mark. I also notice a little but a pink crystals (about the size of a pencil head) on a bolt at the top left of the engine, right under were the oil cap is. But that is all I noticed. No leak in my driveway or other areas of the engine. I must note that I did the oil change myself and it was nice and black, so from my experience it does not appear to be a head gasket, b/c I would assume it would be milky in color if that was the case.
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2006 camry temp gauge goes past H while car is running at any time. Fan still works anti freeze in radiator anti freeze in reservoir. When take the key out the ignition. Temp gauge drops to the middle(normal position) 15-20 later then gauge drops to C (normal position when key is out ignition). Car runs fine no steam no leaks no funny noises. Car has 68k / 4cycl.
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Okay so I just peaked 100k and (of course) my 6.0 has an issue. I was driving along when suddenly my Transmission Temp gauge dropped to nothing, the tow haul began flashing and my check engine light came on. My transmission hard shifted and wouldn't shift up from 3rd. I let the truck sit for a few days, no leaking was observed and no blown lines. I added 4qts of tranny fluid and went to take it for a spin. The truck did fine for about 20 minutes and the same issue occurred. I parked it and checked the dip stick and it was full. What could the issue be.
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All those 4 problems, abs light on, brake light on, odometer gauge fluctuate, temp gauge fluctuate and air conditioner stop working, all happen simultaneously. They can also recover and work altogether again for a bit a time, and then all car runs good and after some time it happens again. Quite inconsistent.
Its toyota camry 2007,v4 , 95K miles on it.
Here is how it looks, another person just recorded here : [URL]...
Went to Toyota, they diagnosed the following codes:
c121
c2177
c0205
c0215
U0073
Can it be done more economical or better way to do it. Also while the ABS unit is at fault and car is running perfectly fine with the brakes working as expected, is there any issue having the car to be used in the meantime it will be fixed.
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02 6.8 4x4 excursion. When I start the truck cold, the trans temp gauge immediately moves to "running" temp. Not really sure how this happens, I'd figure that if the xducer was trash it would ride all the way high or all the way low. What's happening here? I'd sure like a functional gauge...
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I have 2012 Prius C, I want to monitor my transmission fluid temp with my scan gauge II. I watch the MG1 and MG2 temps, which can get very high, like 215 F. I hope this isn't the trans fluid temp as well.
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I rebuilt the engine on my toyota celica. After putting everything back together there are a few bizarre symptoms I am hoping to get sorted out.
1) It only starts with starting fluid, but once it starts it will run continuously without dying.
2) The temperature gauge goes up relatively quickly, and also moves with the throttle. For example if it is as the 1/3 level and I apply throttle it will bump up. It continues to jump along with throttle play.
3) When I remove the coolant sender and/or sensor plugs, the gauge still reads the same (is this normal).
4) The fans don't turn on unless I remove the sender cable (the one with one wire and not two)
If I understand correctly the sensor with one wire is the sender and the sensor with two wires is the temp sensor. I am having a hell of a time determining the difference. The one with a single wire contact is plugged into the thermostate cover/pipe. The one with two wires is in the thermostat housing.
Did I fry the ECU somehow? What is going on?
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2002 S-10 2.2L ... Started noticing my temp gauge running around 170 degrees as it gets cooler outside. I changed the thermostat and noticed that the connector to the temp sensor was cracked, changed that too. Had to warranty replace the temp sensor because the first one didn't register on my dashboard gauge. Still didn't get heat above 150 degrees.
Warranty replace the new thermostat and still not getting heat above 150 degrees. Radiator cap test bad at 15psi, replaced radiator cap and still not getting heat above 150 degrees. The engine is running cool and the cabin heat is not as hot as it has been for the last 5 yrs. There are no engine codes stored, anti-freeze leaks and level is correct.
I'm lost as to why all the sudden the truck starts running cold and won't build heat.
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Okay, I was driving down the freeway and suddenly my temperature gauge zoomed to Hot and steam rose out of the car. I stopped the car and let it cool down, then drove the 5 miles very slowly to the mechanic-stopping twice to let it cool completely.
I got it to the mechanic and a huge crack appeared across the top of the radiator when the car was on. New radiator time-gotcha. She has 235K miles on her and before this ran like she was brand new.
Now not a couple days later, I started noticing that transmission fluid was leaking about 1/2 cup of fluid a day dripping down from the axle. Can I use a stop leak for transmissions/transaxle? Would it fix the issue temporarily...
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I have a 2000 monte carlo ss. A few months ago the check engine light came on, the temp gauge stopped working, and after shutting the car off you can hear the fan running for about 10-15mins after i shut it off. I assumed it was the thermostat, so that was the first thing i changed. For the first few weeks everything seemed fine. No check engine light, temp gauge worked...then today suddenly it all started happening again. What could be causing it if the thermostat has already been changed? what should i try next?
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My sister has a 2004 gli 1.8t with 65k. The temperature gauge says its overheating, the cel is on, but the car appears to run fine, the fluid levels are appear to be fine, and you cant see any leaks. Her fiance thinks its water pump issues...
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I am trouble shooting my temp gauge. I have a 1997 f350. I brought the truck a year ago and i have still not fix this problem. I install a new temp gauge and nothing changed. When ever the truck is running it reads cold and doesn't budge. Ive read that the gauge can be broken its self but during a few hot times over the summer. The gauge began to rise slower, never reaching normal temperature. A few times i messed with the heat and the gauge would shoot over the normal temp. The truck seems to run at a good temp sometimes hot though. The tube on top of the radiator is hotter than the bottom also.
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My temp gauge (which very seldom deviated form its position) is showing above normal temps. Yeah its over 90 here but this is unusual for my car to run hotter. I put in a new thermostat about 3 years ago. I've also been adding water/anti-freeze because there was a small leak (that I finally found in the hose) that I corrected. Could it be that my mixture isn't a 50/50 mix or is it my thermostat again? They say they don't last long anymore???
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I have had my 07 now for a few months. The other day during a trip, I noticed my TPMS light began to blink, and then stayed constantly on. I checked my pressures at the end of the day and they were all right where they should be, including the spare. When I start the car, the TPMS light will blink for some time, and then it will go steady and stay illuminated.
Took the car to a tire shop and they hooked the tpms scan tool up to the car and told me I had a bad sensor. I did some reading online today and it seems like a lot of people say the sensors that come from the factory for these cars only last for about 5 years until the internal battery dies.
For what it costs to get one sensor replaced, knowing that the car is 5 years old and the other 3 sensors are prone to fail, I see some people are making little PVC canisters and putting all 4 sensors in the canister and pressurizing it to make the light go away. But my sensors are broke, and if I bought new ones I do not have a tool to program them.
Is there anything that can be unplugged, or a wire that can be cut or grounded to make this stupid, pointless light go away or am I pretty much at the mercy of the tire shop/dealer to replace the sensor and make the light go away?
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I Have a 2003 Honda Civic EX that is running rough and the windows stopped working and the temp gauge doesn't rise. Would this be do to a bad/failing alternator or something else?
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After i got home from work I noticed a smell from the front so i popped the hood, oil level was a little above max, but it was still hot so thats fine. I did notice the res was low, but I was more like an oil smell. I've been told, and can kinda see the valve cover gasket needs to be replaced, but it have never made this smell before. The car is at 173k miles so I try to keep up on everything.
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My car doesn't blow hot air. the temperature gauge goes up to half way like it normally operates at but the air never get more than luke warm. I changed the thermostat last year with no better results and I just had the timing belt and water pump replaced in July. It been an average of 8 degrees here for the last week.
Its a 98 camry, 4 cyl, Automatic...
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Above 0 Cel.(32F.) 145 F-165 F. even in summer towing. Winter when it gets -20 my trans temp gets warmer (not towing 165.F or higher) When it gets to -30 my trans temp gets to 175 F. or higher I have never looked at trans temps before on any vehicle that I have owned. I like that these trans get warmer when it is cold out and colder when it is hot out.
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I have owned my 2008 yaris sedan since new. With the temp knob turned to full cold, the air coming in (all vents I think) is always warmer than the outside air. This is annoying; I am forced to turn on the air conditioner even when the outside air is just right. I suspect that an internal flapper valve of some sort is not seating properly and is leaking warm air.
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I have had the truck sitting for almost 2 weeks now and live in the Midwest. It is about 35F outside today and finally got to drive it. When I started the truck and let it warm up for about 3 minutes I backed out and started driving. in total the engine ran 6- 8 minutes and the transmission temp moved off cold but the engine was still reading cold. Is this normal in this truck? Mine is a 5.4 gasser with the 3.73 rear.
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2.5 months ago I had a coolant flush in my 2007 explorer Eddie Bauer. The last 3 days last week the temp gauge went from the middle where it usually sits, to maxed out in the red. Stays there for about 45 secs and then drops back down.
Is it coincidence that I had a flush and maybe they didn't fill it all the way back up or is it somthing else ?
One other thing- even when it sits in the middle of the gauge I can sometimes hear the engine sucking in air like a vacuum so I guess at certain times its running hot but just doesn't raise the gauge just yet.
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