Camry :: 2007 - Master Key Shell Is Broken
Feb 8, 2014
My master key shell is broken and I am planning to get it replaced. I found that if I can just buy the key shell(from amazon or eBay - which doesn't have the chip inside) and move the internal component of the master key to the new key and get it cut by locksmith, it works. Is this true?
Also, if I, for say, buy a new key (with the chip inside it), can I program it myself? If I did the program - will it be used for the ignition too or is it just for the lock, unlock buttons to work?
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On a 2007 Camry CE i4. My air intake box broke, either age or the mechanics that worked on my car broke it. And ones on ebay cost 100+ dollars. Either a customer cai will be cheaper, or the junk yard. I know a cai does nothing but changes the sound of your car.
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It seems that someone hit my drivers side mirror on my 2004 gx and cracked the shell. The mirror works fine its just the outer plastic part is cracked. My question is i see on ebay some for sale but im not sure if they are glued together or clipped in. How to take off the cover and if so is it easy or not.
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Just filled up with Shell V-Power 91 Octane Fuel for the first time in my MKVI Golf 2.5
I know 91 isn't needed in this car but I like filling up with good fuel every once in a while.
After filling up my check engine light came on right away, also my engine wont allow me to go over 3k RPM.
Why did this happen and what can I do to fix it?
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My "Smart Master Key (type C)" falls apart too easily. I had the smart key together with my house keys, and so far I had to put it together twice. The last time all the little keys and one of the plastic cover fell down as I pulled it the key from its place on the steering wheel.
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Purchased the car several months ago and have done all maintenance and the car is overall flawless but I believe it to contain the original 12V battery.
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Recently started having issues where the master window switch will put other door windows down, but will not put windows back up. Switches at the other doors still work fine both up and down. Started with just passenger rear window, but now all the other windows act the same way. 2010 Limited AWD.
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I've got 330 miles on my new 2013 F550. I'm getting ready to take a 2200 mile trip. So I'm giving the truck a quick once over I pop the hood and to my amazement the inter hood has started separating from the outer shell. I would think its going to vibrate now.
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I've got an o2 camry with 150K that seems to be losing brake fluid from the "right" side of the reservoir. Which brake lines are supplied by the "right" half of the master cylinder reservoir? I have read that they could be diagonally piped.
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Our 2002 LE Camry master-cylinder reservoir is loose, at least with the engine not running. Is this normal? It moves about 1/4", side-to-side. With the engine running, the pedal almost goes to the floor, but I've been told that's normal. I'm not sure that it is, but my wife seems to get by with it that way. Our engine is 4cyl.
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I have a 2004 Camry LE with 214,000 miles on the clock, and this car has had needed maintenance pertaining to the braking system ever since I bought it in January. Let me give you some background on past issues/maintenance before I dive into my current issue.
During the test drive, the brake pedal felt extremely soft/spongy, having to travel a lot farther than any other car I've driven (even my father's full size pickup had stronger brakes). My dad dismissed it just being the way the car was. In hindsight I would've walked away or slept on it, but let's just say I was pressured into buying the car right away.
We took it to my trusted local mechanic a few days later for an overall inspection, and he said the front brakes/rotors needed to be replaced. He said the rear brakes were thin, but could be replaced later down the line. So we replaced the front ones, expecting it to have some improvement. In reality, the brake pedal force was still the same as before.
A few months later, after hearing faint squeaking coming from the rear brakes, the brake light started to illuminate intermittently. That's when we decided to replace the rear brakes/rotors. After we replaced the rear brakes, braking motion was dramatically improved, and I did not have to push the pedal very far to achieve adequate braking power. It was great,while it lasted.
It gradually started to go back to the way it was, which is really disappointing. After growing tired of the problems, I decided to check the brake fluid level in the reservoir, and it was practically at the minimum line! Figuring it was a brake line or master cylinder leak, we took it again to my mechanic to have him inspect the braking system. Much to everyone's surprise (including my mechanic), there were no leaks to be found and he told me to come back if it gets worse or the brake light comes on. HOWEVER, when I drove it home from the mechanic, the brakes felt the way they did when he put the rear rotors on. On the service record, it said he just looked for leaks and readjusted the rear rotors. This was about a month ago, or at 209,000 miles.
However, as before, the brakes slowly started to loose their "bite" again and sure enough, the master cylinder had lost fluid; albeit not as significant as before, but enough to require topping off. In addition, whenever I'm decelerating on the freeway (from let's say, 75-60 MPH), the wheel shakes as well. This wasn't really present before.
My patience is running thin with this car; we've easily spent half the value of the car on maintenance.
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There is an air leak and hissing sound at the connection of the master cylinder to the brake booster. Brake pedal travels nearly to the floorboard before engaging the brake. What is the problem and how can I fix it myself? (Special note: the brake fluid was very low and is now topped off to the maximum level . Adding the brake fluid caused very little change to the brake pedal travel.)
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I got a piece of bolt stuck in the trans pan bolt hole, how to get that out if there!
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I'm considering replacing the exterior belt molding on my front driver side door, the piece of chrome and rubber trim that runs at the base of the window on the exterior of the car. It is the trim that is under the mirror. What ever holds it down is broken, something I've noticed since we've bought the car. The piece moves around when operating the window, and occasionally vibrates.
I can remove it with ease but I cannot find any information about installing it. I've looked around and have seen the part, but no image of the actual thing, and because mine is broken, I don't know how it should properly go in. I don't know if the door panel has to be removed, if there are any clips, or how it really mounts. I cannot see how the passenger one is mounted either, and I would rather not remove it.
Need to install this, Can it simply be slid in or does the interior door panel have to be removed?
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I was loosening the bolt that holds down the number one spark plug wire when it just spun off leaving less than half the bolt in the valve cover. I tried using the grabbit extractor but that did not work.
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Well it was a good run but after 6 years and 43,000 miles the window tab broke on the passenger window and now the window is off track on my 2007 ES 350. From everything I have read it's going to be a fairly expensive repair as the window will need to be replaced also.
I know there is a TSIB on this but, the car needs to be 48 months or 50,000 miles for it to be covered. I didn't know if I reached out to Lexus for some relief on this if they would at least cover some of the cost.
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2012 Santa Fe 3.5 limited w/ nav. Suv is 3 weeks old I turn on the nav today and a pixel was red I'm guessing it's a broken pixel? I turned it on and off for a bit, changed channel and played around. It's dead center upper screen. What would you do? I really don't want my dash ripped apart but if it's going to get worse... And it's not perfect and I do have OCD with my vehicle.
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2007 Santa Fe just broke the rear wiper arm while trying to replace the blade. Went to rockauto.com to get replacement arm but they don't list one for the Santa Fe but do for the Tucson. My question is will the Tucson arm work on the Santa Fe?
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Have this problem? 500 miles out of warranty and my trunk release lever is broken. The button on the remote still works, but the lever on the floor has no tension on it. It feels like the cable either broke or is no longer attached to the lever.
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My wife has a 2009 Camry LE, 4cyl with approximately 63,000 miles on it. Yesterday when driving it, I went to turn the cruise control off and my finger slipped, causing the button to pop out. Both of us have tried to fix it and I know I tried at least three or four different ways to reinstall the little three prong copper piece and no luck. The cruise control still refuses to work.
Having problem with the button popping out and been able to fix it? If so, how did you fix it? I hope it's something simple, such as re-installing the copper piece a certain way.
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Two of my plugs locking clips broke today on the wire harness side where the coil over plugs into the harness today while changing spark plugs. They will plug back up, but they won't lock together like they are suppose to. How critical is this? It is my wife's car will she break down? I drove the car maybe twelve miles, and everything seemed fine.
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