Camry :: 2007 LE Sluggish When Starts From A Stopping Position
Jun 22, 2016
I've noticed that my Camry has seemed especially sluggish when it starts from a stopping position. The acceleration just seems slow, but it gets better once I get up in speed. My first instinct was the transmission, but the fluid level is fine and I'm not really feeling that 'slipping' feeling. I noticed that my tires are very worn (not bald, but certainly worn to the point where I want them replaced), so I'm planning to get those replaced. However, I'd like to know a little more information so I know what to expect when I go into the shop.
1) Could the worn tires contribute to the dragging feeling that car has when it starts to accelerate?2) I've also heard noises almost like a rumble shortly after I stop at a light, and rarely when I make any turns. I'm going to have them check the brakes and all, but the brakes seem fine and I never hear that noise when I step on them, only the two scenarios described. Could the worn tires be responsible for that sound too?
I guess ultimately I'm curious what sounds/issues a car could have as a result of worn tires (other than the obvious risks of wet roads, blown tires, fuel economy, etc).
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I recently took my truck to the mechanic for a bad transmission leak, they told me they had to replace the Oil Cooler Lines (upper and lower) and that they did a transmission service (flushed out the transmission), the leak is fixed, but as soon as I started driving, I noticed that the acceleration is very sluggish from a full stop, I can floor the pedal and there is no difference, once I get going it seems fine (though a bit high on RPM's but not much). I also noticed some of that liquid sealant residue droplets on my windshield, similar to the type of sealant an AC place did for me to seal an AC leak, not sure if that has anything to do with this.
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My '07 CE's windows are sticking badly in the up position. When I hit the button to lower them, especially the front windows, they make a loud POP. The passenger one even stalled out because it was stuck so bad, so I carefully pushed out on it and then lowered it to free it.
I do not roll my windows down often (maybe once every 2 weeks in the fall/winter/spring), but I've never had this problem on any other cars.
I have cleaned the windows (they had a black line on them from where they were stuck), and I put a very light coating of white lithium grease on the black rubber where it was sticking. I think this is working good.
The sticking point is at the top, and it sticks on the inside of the window where it makes contact with the rubber.
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Ok on my 07 camry se, my right front passenger window rattles when in the up position. I noticed after the car has been sitting for awhile, that it's quiet but when I decide to open the window and then close it it starts to rattle. Now this happens when driving over bumps or have the music turned up.
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I just replace the engine in my car and I had new plugs and wires put in as well. Ever since the new engine, the car doesn't go up hills well and it is very sluggish from a stand still position. As long as I am driving on a flat surface I am good once I get up speed. I went to autozone and I got a P0300 code. Is this a bad ignition coil or maybe a clogged catalytic converter?
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P0340 code appeared on my camry 07 said cam shaft position sensor was bad what other things can be the problem ? Also I just replaced alternator because car wouldn't start with out getting jumped once I replaced alternator it started up good for a couple of days then when I wanted to start it up it would crank then stop and crank again till it would turn on also car stereo would turn off while running and dashboard gauges would go off and would make the gauges go Dow to zero then it would go back to normal while still driving.
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Having issues with mostly in town driven sedan re sluggish starts. Replaced battery about a year ago. Seems to be related to fuel delivery? Wife has said pumping the gas pedal a few times prior to start up works.
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117,000+ mi. on my '07 Camry LE and it's started locking itself two to three minutes after I've just unlocked it with the keyless remote.
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I have a 2007 Camry that starts and runs fine, but after driving a short distance it dies. After sitting for some time, the car starts back up and runs fine again.
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High mileage santa fe 190K+ miles. Will only start while cranking. Dies when key is in "on" position. Fuel pump runs/cycles normally when turned to "on" position. No obvious vacuum leaks. No intake obstructions. Vehicle will cont to run using starting fluid. Vehicle starts, idles and runs (somewhat poorly) with MAF unplugged. Fuses appear ok (although the fuse cover/fuse index is lost). Stranded at rural property with limited tools and average abilities.
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Car: 1992 GMC Sonoma 2.8L Manual Miles: ONLY 197,000 miles
Symptom: When ever I put the switch to OFF or VENT or HEAT the console starts to smoke (if the truck is on, of course). I noticed that I can hear the A/C running even when I put switch to one of the off positions.
Fixes: I have not had a mechanic take a look at this yet. They usually complain about other things when I bring it in. Little things like "your brakes are almost gone" (big deal, I don't need breaks because it is a stick shift) or "your tires are showing their metal wire" (big deal, I've had a front tire blow out before at 70 mph... on this same truck come to think of it).
Current workarounds: I keep the A/C on all the time even if I don't need it. I tried pulling the fuse and that did work, I can put the switch anywhere without the fear of smoke but it turns off the blower motor as well. If the blower is off then I'll have a hard time getting heat in the winter (Florida winters are very cold, down to the low 40s sometimes)
Feeble attempt to diagnose: I think I've seen card board be used as insulation inside the console before, I think whatever insulation was in there started degrade. I'm thinking that I'd like to track down the wires for and put the A/C on a different switch so I can still turn off the A/C and keep the blower going for the cold cold winter. Are there simpler solutions?
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07 saturn vue, 4cyl motor, auto trans. torque conv occasionally will not unlock so motor will stall at stop. a used trans is quite cheap for these rigs. and they come with the TC. would a new TC fix this issue? or is it more of an issue of worn seals inside trans? i would hate to spend 200 on new TC and not touch trans when i can get a lower mile used unit.
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As title says, I cannot fill up tank without pump cutting off every few seconds.
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My car vibrates badly when I stop for a light. It is fine when I drive. Already replaced all of the engine mounts.
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The alarm on my 07 Elantra is going off and I tried disconnecting the battery to no avail. What can I do to stop it from going off an keeping me from driving the car?
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I just bought a 1998 Camry 4 cylinder and i thought i needed to clean the EGR but my dad said it is the resonator. So I'm unsure on what it is exactly. it is kind of sluggish at idle and cant pass emissions. I was thinking of cleaning the egr since that is simple then if that doesn't work then I'll look into the resonator?
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My 2004 Camry 3.3 V6 (3MZ-FE) has started to run a bit sluggish at highway speeds and sometimes in stop and go traffic.
This P0430 code came on after a recent oil change and flushing my engine with seafoam.
The info I've gotten from my auto parts store is that it's one of the oxygen sensors, HO2S or Bank 2. I believe, if my research is correct, that this sensor is post cat. Looking down from the front of my engine I can see 2 sensors after the cat pretty close to each other.
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When taking our 2007 RX out of say a 72 degree garage to say a 90 degree day, it takes at least 10 minutes for the outside temp gauge to finally creep up to the ambient temperature. The gauge feels very sluggish at all other times.
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I've noticed since yesterday that my engine has become really loud when accelerating - obnoxiously loud. Best way of describing it is it's taken on that "muscle car" sound when accelerating which I'm not a fan of. I've had company in the car and they've asked if I've "made the car louder". It also seems to be a bit more sluggish at accelerating.... either that or I'm subconsciously afraid to accelerate and push it too hard. I topped it off with oil because it was a bit low and that didn't make a difference. It is however, just about time for an oil change... could this play a factor? [URL]..................
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Model is 2008 Hyundai Santa Fe GLS 2.7L
A month ago I started noticing it was sluggish to shift from P to R/D but i had no issues starting in P mode and the car would drive fine. I thought it might due to cold weather so didn't think of it too much.
Two weeks ago it was really hard to shift the gear from P mode and I nearly got stuck in middle of the road unable to shift from R to D. I applied a lot of force on the shifter and it finally budged into D and car drove with no issues. I parked and did my chores came back and the car would not start at all.I put the car in N and it started and was hard to shift back in D but I drove home without any other issues.
It died again in my drive way but this time the gear was nearly impossible to shift and I thought I almost broke it and the panel was not registering it was in P and the key was stuck in the ignition. After messing around for some time I was able to get it into N and put my hand brake on left the key in the ignition and disconnected the battery.
Today I opened the center console & battery tray these are my findings. The inhibitor switch was slightly misaligned from the N position.
1. The shifter moves freely once the linkage is disconnected by removing the tiny pin.
2. The inhibitor switch was slightly misaligned from the N position. Once I manually adjusted it I was able to start the car.
3. I reconnected the linkage pin, make sure the inhibitor switch was in N position and started the car but it was again nearly impossible to switch to P/R/D
4. My brake lights work fine.
5. I was able to remove the key once I completely disconnected the battery.
What can be the issue here ? Inhibitor switch ? The shifter assembly ? Linkage?
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What are the symptoms of a bad CPS. This thing is driving me crazy. Iv'e changed the accelerator, Throttle body, plugs. It runs really sluggish when in gear, sputters.
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