Camry :: 2007 LE - Transmission Quits After Engine Replaced
May 8, 2013
I have a 2007 Camry LE with 86K miles. The car was burning oil like crazy and failed the oil consumption test so Toyota put a new motor in the car. I picked it up from the dealer 2 weeks ago and after driving it 40 miles, the transmission went out. The dealership had it towed that day and now after 2 weeks of them not returning my calls or providing any update, they tell me that it was coincidence that my transmission failed 1 hour after I picked it up from them. What are the chances that it had nothing to do with the work they've done?
When I brought it in it was driving fine - the only problem was the oil consumption, no slipping or knocking. Now you can drive it for 20 minutes just fine, but as soon as it warms up, the transmission quits.
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All the sudden AC will stop blowing cold and engine temp will start rising but radiator doesn't seem to heat up. Will correct itself after about 10 minutes. 3.3L 130,000 miles
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I have a 2007 Camry with Eibach Springs with the stock struts. When I bought the car in '06 the front driver side strut was bad and replaced. This was before the springs. Recently, the other front strut went bad and was replaced. I am no longer a fan of Toyota's suspension parts for this car. In the near future I'd like to replace all four.
Any recommendations on good replacement struts that will work with the Eibach springs. A firmer ride is fine, as long as it is still comfortable. Quietness and durability (long life) are of concern as well.
I only plan on keeping the car a few more years so coilovers and similar products aren't option or worth spending that much money.
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I had a mechanic replace my original engine 0f 120k with a 60k engine. Seems like I ran out of oil and warped my original engine and this was my only option. So as soon as I get the van back the transmission is dripping fluid and the mechanic said that some thing in the transmission went bad and must be replaced. This has nothing to do with replacing your engine. Can this be true?
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Own a 2002 Camry 4 cyl with 186K, like it soooo much ,once a day I get something like a missed shift around 20 mph .
I notice that over 65 mph, the RPM's are higher than my other Camry: 65 mph 2450 RPM instead of 2300. 70 RPM 2700 RPM instead of 2450. 75 MPH 2900 RPM instead of 2700.
At 80 MPH drifts between 3000 - 3200 RPM instead of 2800. When idling in park, I heard a whining noise coming from the Trans. I was told it recently had the engine replaced.
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2 weeks ago my Camry 2008 failed the oil consumption test, so toyota fixed the engine. Few days after I got my car, I turned on the A/C but I was surprised that the compressor wont work. Totally dead.
I took the car to toyota and they check it out, they said they dont know whats wrong with compressor and I need to replace it for 1200$!!! IT WAS NOT A FREON PROBLEM, They claim that electricity is being delivered to the compressor but its just not working.
Is it possible that they messed up my compressor while fixing the engine? Also, I really don't want to fix it for that much, any thoughts where to fix it cheaper?
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I recently replaced the spark plugs on my 2002 Camry SE V6 (Gen 5). Let me just say that it was INCREDIBLY DIFFICULT to reach the rear 3 plugs as they sit underneath the intake manifold, way to the rear of the engine compartment. To reach those, I had to unplug some wires reaching on top of the engine, then loosen the intake manifold.
Along the way I broke a tiny air valve that sits underneath intake manifold, and replaced it right away, before starting the car.
When everything was put back together, the car started wonderfully, only to notice the engine light come on. I had the codes checked at the dealer and they indicated a malfunctioning Catalytic Converter and A/F Sensor and some other emissions stuff. Later that day, the VCS/TRAC OFF light came on as well. The service guy at the dealer said those typically come on together with the Check Engine light, which sounds like something he pulled out of somewhere!
The car drives well, no hesitation, no weird behavior, but has no traction control, naturally. While loosening the manifold I had to use a little force to flex it out of place. My guess is that it I may have yanked something out place: may be a wire issue, or a sensor.
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The Speed Needle works fine. But...the Odometer part quit some time ago. I can't tell what my fuel Mileage is now. How to troubleshoot this problem?
Things that might affect this problem; Transmission skids loudly when going in and out of 4-OD. It could be the Torque converter clutch?
The Gear shift lever is sloppy. Doesn't fill me with Confidence.
Brake fluid warning light is on most of the time. Fluid level is up hi though. Driver door mirror control switch don't work in one direction Who on this Forum has a Switch for me?
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2000 Camry XLE. Driver's el.window quits on way up, but will start again if I wait for one or more minutes before retrying. The longer I wait, the farther up it will go. Not fun at toll booths on rainy days. Started a few month ago when I forgot to close windows and the controls got rained on. Initially, a blast of WD40 seemed to cure the problem, but no longer. Took arm rest controls out, but couldn't see any obvious problems. Is this an aging motor problem? Do I have to get ripped off by dealership serv. dept., or can any reputable garage do it? I'm worried about taking the whole panel off myself. Don't have the tools to do so, and don't want to rip "leather."
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I purchased a 2007 Sonata with the 3.3L about six months ago. I really like the car, it has a lot of good features and lots of power; however, I am starting to have problems with the car. On accelerating from a stopped position the car almost quits (hesitates severely) and then picks up and goes on normally. Also, between 40 and 50 mph the car starts to jerk pretty hard for a few seconds and then it straightens out and runs normally again; it will do this repeatedly if it is kept between 40 and 50 mph.
When this first started happening the CEL would come on randomly and stay on for a day or two and then go off. While the CEL was on I took it to Autozone and had them pull the code, they said it was the crankshaft position sensor. Well based on the symptoms the diagnosis made sense. I replaced the sensor and the car seemed to be running normally on the 30 minute test drive. The next day my wife drove to work and she said the same symptoms had come back. It has been several weeks since I replaced the sensor and the CEL has not come back on. I have seen several postings about the spark plugs and wires and that is my next step. BTW the car has 94k miles.
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Replaced Troque Converter, Truck runs engine runs fine transmission won't shift out of 1st gear.
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I have aproblem with my 2007 Camry 2.4 SE automatic tranny at 88000 miles. I parked my car as usual,got back after 2 hours started the car normally pressed the brake pedal to engage D and....nothing happens. The lever moves freely from R to L but the light on the instrument cluster stays at P and the car won't budge!!!!! What could be the cause.
The tranny showed no signs of failure before,excpt a slight vibration while in Drive. What I should go checking before towing the car to dealer.Any fuses relays etc.?I mounted a back up camera lately and had to slice back-up wires in the trunk to do that ,could this be related?
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So, we bought this camry about a year and a half ago and it has slowly developed what I believe to be a transmission slip. It seems to happen more often when the car is cold (prior to warming up to operating temperature). The transmission only shifts between (i think) 1-2 gear. Could be 3-4 but, it's kinda hard to tell.
Anyhow, it doesn't keep us from driving the car but I fear it will eventually make the car un-driveable.
We have a used car warranty but under the automatic trans. section it appears to only cover hard parts and not things like bands or other friction materials.
is this a known issue for this transmission? and if so, what typically causes this kind of slipping?
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I need identifying parts or the problem to fix this leak! I see oil underneath my car coming from the transmission. Someone told me I need to replace the seal but don't know where to start. Transmission slips when it was low on oil but once I topped it off again it ran way smoother. Bought the oil from the dealership but can't afford to get it replaced there.
I want to repair this problem before it get worst. I have 200k mileages and never any tranny problem until now.
[URL] .....
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Car started fine but stalled on first brake application with the skid-control light illuminated, restarted fine but stalled again on next brake application (skid-control light stayed on). Decided to head for the dealer which was only a few blocks away, drove there knowing that it may stall when brakes were applied (engine would start, idle and operate when driving but the problem would only occur on brake application.... approx when the transmission would down shift to third or second gear). My last stop before turning into the dealer's parking lot, the engine quit and refused to restart.... finally came back to life after about 5mins and was able to complete my somewhat dangerous trip (whole journey was on very quiet back streets). At first I thought it could be related to the infamous brake switch but the service rep informed me that they couldn't communicate with any control module with the scan tool. Now I sit and wait, hopefully they will call with some good news soon.
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My 2007 V6 failed me several times on very cold mornings. I start the car, wait about 1 minute and then drove it to a stop sign or red light (still cold). When the light turned green, I tried to proceed, but it was as if the car was in neutral. The car would not move. It was only after about 2-3 minutes, when the car started to warm up that I was able to get a gear. After 5-7 minutes, it was as if nothing happened. I have 97K on the car.
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My wife drives an 07 camry; 4 cyl/auto. the transmission has a dipstick so I can check it, and I can see it is discolored. the car has 76kmi on it. she just drives it back and forth to work; no abuse, no start/stop, just highway and 45mph roads.
I am going to change the trans oil. I see on the dipstick it take Toyota WS fluid. I'll buy it at the dealer to be safe.
do I *really* need to drop the pan and change the filter? I have a fluid evacuater, and could suck it right out the dipstick, or I can pull the pan plug.
Is the dealer going to sell me a filter and pan gasket? I have read that many dealers wont even sell me the parts.
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I have a 2007 Camry V6 XLE with a rebuilt transmission. Since the rebuild I have had an intermittent problem with the transmission not shifting into gear properly from park. When shifting from park into drive, sometimes the transmission will pause, leaving the vehicle in neutral, then slamming into drive.
The transmission was replaced in April of 09 with a leaking transmission seal. Since this time I have has this problem but have not been able to get it to be reproduced for Toyota to observe.
Purchased: February '08 (ish)- New
First Transmission Replacement- April '09- 35980 Miles
Transmission Repair- Internal Temp Sensor/leaking o-ring/Transmission Flush- 9/13/11- 101k miles
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I own a 2007 Toyota Camry XLE with about 95,000 miles and I was wondering if changing the transmission fluid is ever necessary. The maintenance guide, which shows required maintenance for every 5,000 miles through 120,000 miles, never mentions the need to change it (unless I'm doing towing, which I'm not). However, I found some articles on the web which suggest that it should be changed every 50,000 miles.
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I currently have a 07 camry v6 with u660e transmission. Going to drain and refill of transmission fluid? How many quarts do i need for drain and refill? It seems it doesn't have a transmission dipstick.
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2000 Buick 3.8. stop for gas, red light, etc. engine quits. 1st repair shop said fuel pump bad. Replace filter pressure okay. car starts later, quits multiple times. 2nd repair shop, car quits while there. Mechanic comes out with tester and says "no spark", ignition module bad, also spark plug harness bad. Replace just wires, and car runs for 9 months, no trouble. Now car quits while driving, no sputtering, just quits! Wait awhile, car starts, but 30 miles later, quits. Seems that hot weather has something to do with it, although it quit on a cold rainy fall day and had a hard time starting again. It did start and ran for 300 miles before acting up.
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