Camry :: 2007 LE - Shuddering / Rough Idle And RPMs Low
Aug 12, 2012
2007 Camry LE. This morning while driving, she noticed a shuddering that scared her. She called me and parked the car as soon as she could. I went to drive it around and, as she had said, it was shuddering.
I drove it for a bit, neighborhood and highways, and took note of everything. The RPMs were low - About 500. I'm not sure where it usually idles, I rarely drive this car, but my Jetta idles around 900 so this seems strange to me. RPM gauge occasionally bounces around at idle. Once the car gets moving there are no issues. Only at complete stop. It feels like the car is about to stall.
I drive a manual and if I keep it in gear while approaching a stop it makes the same shuddering because the RPMs are too low for the selected gear. This is what it reminds me of.
Here is a video of what's going on under the hood. As you can see, the airbox is vibrating heavily. That's the most obvious place. The engine and intake manifold are also bouncing around, but it's hard to see in the iPhone video.
Video ... ... ...
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As of late, my 06 Camry (I4) idle's real rough @ 600 rpms when in park. It stays the same in drive with the A/C on. However, when I switch the A/C off, for about 2 secs, the idle will be smooth before dropping down in rpms. Some folks have said this is normal, but I've had this happened to my car before. I've got 135K on it so I'm guess a tune up is in order.
I'm new in the game of working on my car myself since a past issue with the dealer on my '06. So if all is needed is a tune up, I can do that myself with the parts of my choice.
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I've made posts about a rough idle before now I noticed something new about it. I noticed when I approach a red light the vibrations don't start immediately. They start as soon as the RPMS would drop a little. They stay above 500 but it seems like it's below 750. As if the engine is slightly starved from power? Now i'm wondering if it could be related to another problem I have.
Whenever I start the car, the battery light flickers until the car is started all the way. This is on a 2007 Camry 4 cylinder. So far everything iv'e done is: New NGK Spark Plugs, NEW OEM mounts (all 4) Seafoamed the engine, Seafoamed the throttle body, cleaned the MAF sensor, New air filter, and cleaned the air filter box, replaced the PCV Vlave, new belt, new alternator (duralast), and a new battery (from autozone).
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After the engine is warmed, my normal idle in drive, park, neutral, or reverse is around 650-700 RPMs.
I have recently noticed that when a combination of conditions occur, my idle hovers around 450-500 RPMs and is pretty rough. This low, rough idle occurs when:
1) The car is in drive;
2) The car is at a full stop (foot on the brake or auto-brake hold);
3) All accessories are off (heated seats are off, radio is off, headlights are off); and
4) HVAC is Off.
I went to the dealer and they ran diagnostics. No error codes were recorded. The dealer looked at other ls460s and said they all do that. By the way, I noticed this after my VSR was done.
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I leased a 2015 Honda CR-V AWD LX on March 11, 2015. The following day I noticed a rough vibration/shuddering/chattering that appeared to be coming from the transmission when the rpms ranged between 1,000 and 2,000. The roughness was evident at any speed (mpgs) when the tachometer reading was between the previously stated range. The service technician reported feeling the same roughness, but noted that the problem was characteristic of the CRV with a CVT transmission. On Tuesday March 17, I went back to the dealer and discussed the problem with the service manager. He also stated that he was aware of that particular problem and that it was peculiar to the 2015 CRV with the CVT transmission. He took my car for a test drive and admitted feeling the chattering. It was also evident to me as I sat in the passenger’s seat. He then took out another new CRV and it too exhibited the same characteristics.
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Yesterday my mom used my car and the battery light came on while driving, but she didn't really care about it and was driving the whole time on the battery. When she came back home the car was barely even alive I couldn't even start it. I replaced the alternator (duralast from auto zone) and the serpentine belt, but now I have a very rough idle and the rpm's are lower than usual. They are 1500 instead of 1750. Is this normal and eventually it'll go away or did I mess something up?
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I recently purchased a used Camry XLE V6 with 90,000km on the engine. Soon after I bought it I noticed when I was stopped at a light the engine rpm's would increase for a few seconds at a time every 20 seconds or so. It was enough to make the car move forward slightly if my foot was on the brake lightly. I spent some time trying to re-create it at home, and it seems to do it consistently when the A/C is on, although some times it is more noticeable than others. It will do it when in park, or in drive with the brake on. The low (base) rpm is around 650 and it will increase to 950. It does this over and over as long as the AC is on. The rpm's will also increase if I turn the steering wheel when I am at a stop, but it only does it when I turn the wheel, it doesn't keep cycling. There are no check engine lights showing either.
I changed the air filter and cleaned the throttle body butterfly valve flap (not the entire throttle body) but it did not fix it. I also brought it to a Toyota dealer and they took it for a drive, but of course it did not show the systems as clearly that day. I didn't book an actual appointment with the mechanic though, since the car is running great otherwise and this problem is not bad enough to start throwing money at it doing problem solving. I also asked the guy I bought it from and he said it always did this from day one. If it were me I would have been making my dealer resolve it because it is not normal.
If I could fix this one very annoying issue the car would be perfect. I'm not sure if I need to do a full throttle body cleaning including the idle air control valve, or if this is more about the load on the engine and the way the computer/engine is responding to it.
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I made a post earlier about rough vibrations at idle on my 07 camry le not too long ago. I cleaned my throttle body and it worked, but now they are back and worse then ever. Now the vibrations go in and out, like it vibrates for a second the stops for a second then starts vibrating again until I move and stop at the next light and then the in and out vibrations are back. Also sometimes I hear metal hitting sounds.
Just had an oil change and oil changes are always on time so I doubt it's the engine knocking. Also when the AC is on the vibrations just become very unbearable. Finally sometimes when I turn the steering wheel while barely moving or not moving at all the vibrations get as bad as when the AC is on and very noisy. Also I noticed turning the steering wheel raises the rpms but then drop back. I tried to record the sounds, but as usual video of sounds are useless.
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I have a 95 Buick Regal, V6 3.8 Liter. The symptoms are the following: stuttering idle. And lack of response at times when I try to accelerate. Like sometimes I'll be driving on the highway, and having no problems. Then I'll be going up a hill at around 55 mph, and then the car will shudder as I try to maintain a speed of 55 mph. So I have to ease off the accelerator and slow down. At first I thought this was a transmission problem, but I am guessing it's the same problem that causes my choppy idle.
So I had this acceleration problem on the highway when I was going up a hill. And a weak idle. These problems have been going on for several months now. They were annoying, but didn't seem that serious. Then all of a sudden, on a rainy day, the car was really responding poorly to acceleration at all speeds. I was able to drive around, but I couldn't count on the car responding right away when I hit the gas pedal. And the car would shudder at times. Then, I didn't drive the car for a few days, and then it was dry, no rain, and the car ran better. So I am thinking humidity makes the problem worse.
I have also noticed over the past few months, that the car runs best when I start it up after a few days of not running it. Then if I drive the car a few miles and let it sit for about 2 hours or so, it would idle weakly when I would start it up again. The car's been doing that for several months now, but it wasn't really affecting the drivability or the response of the car when I hit the gas pedal.
Now it's gotten much worse. So, I've already replaced the following items myself to no avail: mass air flow sensor, oxygen sensor, and egr valve. I am guessing the next thing to fix is the pcv valve. But I also think it might be the fuel pump. My first guess though is the pcv valve. What else could it be? And is there any easy way to test to see if the fuel pump is going bad? Or should I just take out the pcv valve and see if it looks bad?
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My 07 camry's battery died last week and I got it jumped, drove about a mile and while at idle it felt as if the alternator was not charging the battery and It was slowly dying. Took it to Tires Plus, they said the computer forgot how to idle, so it was misfiring and threatening to shut down at every idle. 80 dollars later...it was fixed, for a week.
This morning, my battery was dead again, again from leaving a power connection unscrewed that came from my fog lights attached to the battery in the car after cleaning it on sunday, called AAA. He said that I have to get a screw to screw it back in or it will die once I turn off the engine again.
I work at a construction plant so we have quite a few nuts and washers laying around. Well it had a rough idle again, on the way to work, lights would be bright then dim again and vibrating the car, like it's struggling to keep the power.
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2004 Trailblazer 6cy. 2WD - has been experiencing a very rough idle, engine shudders - no matter how long it's been warmed up. Wants to stall off red lights and at very low speeds. Not throwing any lights yet - but the speedo is out ( a cam shift typical problem for this car) so I don't trust the console for lights. Worse when the heat or air is on. Rides fine with more gas/higher speeds. Definitely worse in colder temps but continues even after 40-50 mins of driving. I've heard a number of things, but can't afford to fix them all. I've heard plugs, dirty throttle camshaft, sensors, cam actuator solenoid, etc. All seem to have people who said it fixed and didn't fix the issue. Worried I'm going to stall pulling off a stop and rear end someone any day now. Where do I start!?
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Not sure if this is normal so I've found that my car is idling very low in rpm's and feels like the car is shivering along with me! (hint: its really cold here) I took a very short video [URL] ....
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My golf 2.0 vw isn't doing so good right now. It has 227000 miles on it. It has been driving great, and then last week it started to idle rough. It idles between 600-800 rpms. it fluctuates between 600-800 rpms. It had the check engine light on before this happened i was told by my brother that it was an 02 sensor. I had it checked for what is causing the engine light to come on today at o Rileys, and it came up with 11 codes. Some of the codes where 02 sensors, it was running to rich, needed a new computer, evaps system, fuel pump, fuses, coil pack, spark plugs, It shakes when you sit in it when it is idling like not a bad shake but a small one you cal feel, l'm including a video of it running.
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The problems seems to be getting progressively worse, it has a rough idle and when it smooths out is only at about 600 rpms and still sounds strange. Also, I am running extremely rich, blows flames quite often and in OCMD I went 100 miles on a half tank. Car is stage 1 unitonic with sai and evap deleted. I changed the maf and that didn't change anything. I was searching for vacuum leaks yesterday and noticed that one of the vacuum caps I have on the bottom of the intake manifold was dried out so I took it off so i could put my finger over it and see if it ran better, when the cap was off it ran great but when I put my finger over it it would go back to an awful idle Now when I come to a stop it will sometimes drop the rpm so low that it shuts off, when I am driving you can't tell a difference.
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Have a jazz blue chipped tuned with giac.. It does this random times.. When I come to a red light on idle the rpms go up and down just a bet but never stalls. The car vibrates and the engine shakes a bit. Engine is stable when car is on and off. Idk if its motor mounts or what?
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1997 Subaru SVX (Alcyone) LSi, 3.3L H6 engine.
My SVX was driven from Denver to Las Vegas, NV and it developed an odd habit where the RPMs would start to oscillate while on cruise control. I had to disengage the cruise control to get the oscillations to stop. Three days later I was driving the SVX to work and the RPMs started oscillating at idle and the car started running rough and it died.
These things have all been replaced with OEM grade parts: Spark plugs, electric fuel pump & strainer & fuel filter, Mass Air Flow sensor, new air filter and fuses.
The car starts up fine but after a few seconds the RPMs begin to oscillate. Then the car tries to recover, the idle becomes rough, and the the RPMs drop very low and the engine shuts off.
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I have a 2001 Ford Escape, and when I start it for the first time of the day, it idles really rough, and way below 500RPMs (to the point where it almost stalls). After about 10 minutes, when the car is all warmed up, it runs smoothly, as if there was nothing wrong with it. The only conclusion I can draw is that it is temperature related, but I can't figure out exactly what is causing the issue. This happens on the driest or wettest of days, so moisture doesn't seem to be an issue.
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It just started last week, only when in drive, checked vac lines, good ignition system including new plugs, its very annoying the steering wheel even shakes, what to look into, the rpm at idle is around 500. 1.8T
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We have a 1997 Saturn. For the past few months, whenever we're at a stoplight it suddenly fluctuates in RPMs, giving it a rough idle (going from 1000 down to 500 or so for a second or two, before coming back up to normal). It appears to be temperature sensitive (i.e. the longer the car runs or the hotter the outside temp, the more often this occurs). I sprayed the throttle body connection and vacuum connections to attempt to find a potential vacuum leak, with no effect. We've already had the transmission replaced, and haven't been having any other idle issues besides this. What else might be causing it.
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I have a 100% stock 2004 Celica GT ~125,000 miles. Over the last few months I have been getting a rough idle and stumble at low rpms. The other day the car would not restart after sitting for about 20 minutes. Only recently has it actually thrown a DTC. The error codes were for misfires (P0300, P0301,P0302,P0303, P0304). I don’t get a code every time but the problem seems to be more noticeable if the car has been ran for a while, sits for 20-30 minutes while in a store and then when I try to start it when I come out of the store is when the problem most often occurs. When it restarts it will stumble at low RPM and if I hit the gas it has little response and misses badly. I have never used a scanner until now. I am using a Autel MS509 scanner and I am not sure it is giving me the correct diagnostic numbers for the live data. I think the DTC are correct but the live data is questionable.
Here is what I have done so far.
- Cleaned IAC valve (completely removed and cleaned)
- Searched for vacuum leaks using carb cleaner
- Cleaned MAF sensor
- Replaced all 4 injectors
- Replaced upstream and downstream O2 sensors
- Replaced Coolant Temp Sensor
- Ensured cam tensioner is providing adequate pressure to the cam chain
- Tried 2 sets of new Iridium NGK plugs and a new set of Bosch Copper plugs
- Moved coil packs around
- New air filter
- New fuel filter
- SeaFoam through intake and gas tank. I have not mixed in the oil.
- Compression Test (1=190,2=190,3=160,4=178)
Things I have not done.
- Taken it to the stealership
- Fuel pressure test
- Valve Clearance
I am concerned about the compression test because according to the service manual it should be around 218. I was using a Harbor Freight compression tester and I am not 100% sure I had a good seal with the tester.
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I have done everything I can think of to this car. New; plugs, wires, distributor, battery, fuel pump, fuel filter, relay, and electrical lines to fuel pump. The timing belt is fine. The car has a rough idle and when I am stopped the RPM's drop below normal. Now it won't start. What can I try now?
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