Camry :: 2007 LE Growling Noise From Rear Right Wheel
Dec 3, 2012
I have 2007 Camry LE with about 88K miles on it. I get the growling noise from the read right wheel, particularly when turning right. I can very clearly hear it inside. Interestingly, this happens only first couple of times after I pull it off from parking.
I recently had the brakes and rotors replaced but the noise did not start coming until a couple of weeks later. I suspected it must have something to do with tires so I got them rotated. But that didn't stop the noise.
Initially, when I first heard the noise about 2 months back, it was very seldom but now it's almost everyday. When I got the tires rotated, I was told that I needed the rear wheels aligned. (But if it's due to alignment issue, shouldn't be coming from both wheels?)
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My 97 Celica 1.8L has 190K miles on it. Recently it has developed growling noise when speed goes around 60 mph and intermittent front wheel vibration when goes above 70 mph. The vibration comes and goes by itself and most of the time is on slight left turn on highway. I replaced the stabilizer bars last year and the vibration went away but now it came back again. I can't pin point if the growling noise is from front or rear end. I plan to replace timing belt, water pump, lower ball joints and tie rod. What else I should do to get rid of noise and vibration.
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My '02 has a growling noise only when I turn the wheel to the left. It doesn't seem to matter if it's turned slightly to the left or all the way, the noise is the same and you can feel it in the floor and wheel. If the wheel is straight or turned to the right, there isn't a noise at all. The growl is speed related and seems to be noticeable from 5mph and up. Does this sound like the typical power steering module when it's about to fail?
I took a video while driving to show the steering wheel, speedo and you could hear the growl as I turned the wheel, but I wasn't able to attach it to this message. I did get the PS error on the MFD 2 times in the last 2 weeks. What does the power steering module look like and how tough is it for a DIY'er to replace?
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Have an 06 2WD Explorer with 80,000mi and when driving down highway there is a bit of growling noise when any pressure is applied to the steering wheel. When driving straight not moving steering wheel its quite but when going around corner or curve tends to make noise. What I should be looking for? Brakes were replaced 10K miles ago. Ball joints or wheel bearings?
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I've recently experienced a rattling(vibration)/growling noise around the engine when the car is running with the AC on. The sound gets louder when I put the car in drive and it goes away when I turn the AC off. The sound seems to be coming from underneath or next to the engine(right of engine when sitting in the car/left of engine when standing over the hood facing the engine)
I took it to Lexus and they told me its likely the water pump. The car drives great and I'm not noticing any leaks(water or otherwise) underneath the car. I had to park the car for 6 weeks while on a military exercise, and don't recall hearing the noise before going away. could 6 weeks of inactivity on the engine have anything to do with this?
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Front end has a growling noise. When pulling a load it is worse. When the front end has more weight the noise and vibration is less. When traveling dead straight now growl really but turn the wheel a fraction of an inch either left or and a growl vibration. Turns left or tight fully bring on the same hard growl. Steering pump is pumping fine. Either steering box or front wheel bearing is my guess. 2007 Explorer 4.6 ...
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I have a 2001 ford truck and it makes a growling sound when i am turning right but is not when going straight ahead wondering what part in the rear end could be making this sound.
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2000 Corolla - "growling" noise on the passenger side of the engine / stops when I turn the steering wheel - no loss of PS fluid (I also flushed the system) - which bearing(s) might be bad...?
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So 2 weeks ago I noticed that after 30 minutes of driving on the highway my steering wheel started making a loud growling noise and vibrating really hard! When I hit the brakes it got worse but got better as I slowed to 30 mph. It doesn't happen all the time and not right away, only after a while of driving and the dealership says without codes they can do nothing...
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A day before 3 yr service and MOT test on 7 seat 2011 Santa Fe, a noise from the rear offside wheel. Advised the garage to check and they discover the handbrake shoes were detaching from their mountings, not wearing out but detaching. This has apparently happened before causing someone's wheel to lock up and the vehicle recovered to the garage.
Strange that the same garage has seen it before so it must be happening elsewhere.
Cross pond Translations....
handbrake=parking brake
MOT = annual government safety test
Shoes = pads / linings
Rear offside = left right rear
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Lately my 2007 Camry (2.4 L, Auto) has developed a bit strange problem. When I'm driving on highway, even slight left turn results in a grinding noise and sort of resistant steering wheel. It happens only when I turn left. As soon as steering wheel gets back to straight, the noise and steering wheel resistance/hardness goes away. I don't really feel much when I'm driving slow on the city streets. Although some time when I am little bit fast, I feel slight grinding noise and steering hardness. No problem in turning right at all.
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This is going to sound odd but here is the case: When accelerating in car from 0 mph to about 10-15 mph there is a noise coming from the rear. It sounds as if it is coming from the axial or something because it does it once every revolution. But the wierd thing is is that it does it louder when it rains or any moisture is in the air!
We had back right bearing replaced. But still makes noise. Don't think it is rock or tire because it only does it sometimes when speeding up. And does it very loud when raining or humid
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2007 Camry LE 2.4
I just replaced the rear pads and rotors with no issues other than having to bang the cr@p out of the left rotor with a hammer to get it to come off. Now at pretty much all speeds I am hearing a rythmic humming-type sound that increases and decreases with vehicle speed. It's not a constant hum but more like one-hum-per-tire-revolution type of sound. It is coming from the left side as far as I can tell.
Thinking I had damaged the wheel bearing (and after searching the forums extensively) I replaced it with a brand new bearing from Advance Auto Parts. I re-checked the pads, rotors, all bolts, everything is lubricated properly, etc. Just took it out for a test drive and the noise is still there. Sometimes it gets louder when breaking but not always. I rotated tires and the sound did not follow the tire. The pads aren't stuck or rubbing excessively as far as I can tell.
This sort of thing has happened in the past on the left rear. It would sometimes happen when I swapped the summer tires for my winter tires on steelies, the left rear would make the humming sound, I'd take the wheel off and put it back on 180 degrees rotated and the sound would go away. I've done that a few times too and it has not worked.
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I have a 2005 Explorer XLT with the 4.0L V6 and AdvanceTrac.
I've had a worsening growl in the front end that sounds like it's coming from the front left wheel. I can feel it in the steering wheel, and the sound goes away when I turn the wheel right of center. Center (going straight) or leftward steering, and the noise comes right back.
I changed the wheel bearing today, and there is absolutely no change in symptoms. Turning the CV shaft back and forth by hand, something feels kind of "grindy." It is the same at any point along the shaft, which has me worried that the bad bearing is in the front differential.
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2003 xle v6 auto... 105,000 approx... Seems to be developing a noise, which I hope is not the transaxle. It is a bit like a "whine" or "growling" sound, can't quite place it. Driving around at slower speeds with windows open, cannot really hear anything.
Up at 50 MPH or more it is noticeable and, unfortunately, seems to be getting louder. Does not seem to vary with speed. Don't think it is some weird wind noise.
I did do the poor man's trans flush about 6 months ago (drain pan, fill + 1 quart, disconnect hose, run a quart out, add quart, repeat until clean comes out) and it has been happy. Also did timing belt/idlers/wp a couple months ago. Did not see a way to change the diff. Seem to be a drain, but no fill, so I left it.
My suspects are - wheel bearing(s), cv/axle, transaxle. oh, tires, I guess.
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Have a CR-V noise coming from rear tire area I think. It sounds like a growling or low pitched grinding. Noticeable at 30-40 mph up hills. I have changed trans fluid and rear diff fluid in the last 15K miles.
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2007 Santa Fe about 90k miles - Automatic transmission ... Before suggesting stuck caliper / emergency brake hear me out:
Last year, I am driving around and my passenger side rear wheel is getting hot. Infrared thermometer shows up to 600 degF on the rotor after about 30 minute ride.
Took the wheel off, and I could not move it. Upon recommendation, I bought a new caliper, took the wheel off, took the old caliper off, but the wheel would still not move with the brakes off. I never installed the new caliper knowing it is not what is holding wheel.
Took it to the shop. They took off the rotor, found a groove inside, so said the e-brake shoe is getting stuck. I paid for the new rotor, took it from the shop and the problem was still there. Wheel getting hot. Took it back, and they suggested to buy e-brake hardware. I did, and reinstalled the e-brake assembly myself. The wheel was still getting hot, but only after I used the e-brake. So I took the wheel apart, released the brake an it seemed to 'fix' the problem. So I decided to not use the e-brake at all. Winter went by, I accidentally used the e-brake couple times, but it did not seem to make the wheel hot. So far so good.
Now is June and about 2 weeks ago I started to sense the wheel getting hot again. Now, this time this may have nothing to do with the previous time, but who knows. The temperatures are again up to 600 degF when driving about 45 mph for about 20 minutes.
I took the jacked up the car and tried to spin the wheel and the wheel spins freely. What the heck. I asked my daughter to apply brakes. The wheel can't be moved. When the brakes are released the wheel spins freely. No friction at all. Both inner and outer pads are thinner on this wheel then the opposite wheel, as all of them were replaced 6 months ago. So definitely higher friction. But why. Caliper nicely moved and releases. I took it off and tried it and it worked fine. Brakes nicely engage and release the rotor during the test when car was jacked up. I bought infrared camera to find source of heat, which is proving to be the pads. See pics below.
So what is going on? Why would the wheel free spin and jacked up showing no friction. Why would the brake nicely release the rotor when car jacked up but then cause big friction when car is running?
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99 F-250 Ext cab 4x4 7.3 285,000 miles.
I got home today opened my door and got snaked in the face with the smell of brakes. I got out of the truck then I heard the drivers side rear brakes popping as they are cooling down. I reached down to touched the wheel and it's crazy hot. Opened the garage and went to retrieve the infared thermometer. The rotor/caliper was 350 degrees, hub was 150 degrees, axle tube was 90 degrees.
I took the wheel off and inspected stuff. The rotors do have some heat spots, the caliper visibly looks okay but not 100%. The pads look like even wear. I am guessing that the caliper either is hanging up or I have a wheel bearing going? The passenger side was like 80 degrees on everything. There is a slight shimmy while driving which to me feels to me like the beginning of warped rotors. I don't hear anything to me that screams wheel bearing noise wise.Brakes or bearings?
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Replaced rear brakes for a 2004 camry. Just decided to change out pads/rotors. Rotors were stuck on, had to use the little bolt holes to thread in bolts and push out the rotor. Time to change pads, pads came off fine but when I put on new pads and tried to put it on the rotor, the gap was too small. Seemed like a stuck caliper. Tried to remove the slide bolts, top slide bolt was fine, bottom slide bolt had a lot of resistance and would not come off the slide. Regreased it, re-assembled it and it had a lot of gap to slide over the rotor.
Reassembled everything, tried to spin the rotor by hand and it was fine. Put on wheel, lugged it down and it wouldn't spin at all. Drove it, seemed fine with no pulling but the one rotor was definitely running hotter (163 vs 113) than the other side after a 5 minute drive.What would cause it to spin freely without the wheel, but not spin when the wheel is lugged down?
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Rust proofing the rear wheel well: I was trying to rust proof/coat the rear wheel well and surrounding area to make sure i get the bolts under it. Back of the car is where most of the salt sits as the undercurrents with wind tend to drive the salt deep in the quarter panels and around tank area. I wanted to confirm if these cars still have the wheel well bolt securing the bumper to the quarter panel with a rust prone steel bolt.
When weather gets better i'll take to get sprayed somewhere. But for now i wanted to leave something on it of a coat after a good cleaning. Hate dam salt or whatever they are using these days.
I also noticed that the SE's wheel well internal sheathing was much stronger looking, solid than what's on my LE - a felt type material. Besides the wheel well rim on SE has a band of silicone type substance overlaid on it. Right?
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Need to identify what could this be? It used to come and go, now it's constantly here. I took it to the dealer but there was a 3 hour waiting time, so I might have to go another time. If you do know what is it, could I fix it myself? While driving there's no squeaking, but I can hear a metal on metal sound while on bad roads, the type of noise you would expect from a bad tie rod or something like that, on good roads it's fine. The noise you can hear on the video happens when I push the car side to side. [URL] .....
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