Camry :: 2007 LE - Getting Codes PO037 And PO102
May 2, 2016
I have a 2007 Camry LE approx. 140,000 miles. Get codes PO037 and PO102, I have changed both of the O2 sensors and nothing has changed, also cleaned and changed the MAF ( think that's what is called.) the air flow sensor.
Car still hesitates and has very little power to take off but will run at 80 mph on freeway when I come to a hill or incline it slows and I give it gas and it downshifts and the RPM's go up to about 4000-5000 and it acts like it has no horsepower . When I get out of car after driving it smells like rotten eggs. (I guess from the cat converter). For the longest time I was getting PO101 and PO172.
The 037 &102 codes just started after I changed both of the O2 sensors and the previous codes don't show up anymore. I am about ready to cut this car loose and get something else.
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I just did an oil change at my vocational school on my grandpas car, 2008 LE V6. On the way back it threw a CEL. Codes are listed in the title. Now googling those codes i found info on other car manufacturers i.e ford, dodge etc.. But i found nothing in regards to a gen 6 camry. It seems like this code has something to do with the engine running lean. Bank 1 and bank 2. What could cause these codes and what could be a possible remedy. P0174 and P0171 were both pending and setting a cel don't know if maybe they were pending before i did the oil change.
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Took it to the local parts store to have the codes checked, but was unable to erase the codes from the reader. Is there procedure I need to do?
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02 SE. Had my CEL go on, so went to Autozone to pull my code. Well, ended up being codes:
P1155
Definition - Air/Fuel sensor heater circuit (bank1 sensor2)
Probable Cause:
- Open or short circuit condition
- Poor electrical condition
P1128
Definition - Throttle control motor lock
Probable Cause:
- Open or short circuit condition
- Poor electrical condition
P1150
Definition - Coolant path clog up for coolant heat storage system
Probable Cause:
- Clogged cooling system
- Failed water valve
- Failed CHS tank outlet temp sensor
The car is running fine as best I can tell. Maybe a stutter here and there, but I might be imagining it. Coolant isn't that old, and there are no starting / overheating / electrical issues present.
From what I've gathered, P1155 is O2 sensor and the other two reference the affected area. But....given that they all seem to reference some sort of electrical issue (the last coolant one sounds like it could be electrical), it makes me wonder if I have a short somewhere in my engine harness...maybe heat has corroded the wires somewhere. Sound logical at all?
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I am having trouble with drive ability. It is getting worse with no engine codes. Car idles fine, but misses. While driving and almost any speed. Drove with dealer today and he got a "misfire on 3?"
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Just had AAA change my oil. Less than 1 mile from the shop my CEL came on plus all the other warning lights. I was able to make it back to the shop. They checked the codes and came up with P2103 and P2111. He reset the codes and drove the car. I then drove the car. The CEL did not return. He said that the ECM maybe going bad or the wiring and I should see if the CEL returns before having it replaced. I have been driving the car for two days at both high and low speeds, up and down hills without the CEL returning. My wife drives the car on the interstate going to work. I don't want her to have the car loose power during high speed rush hour driving. Should I just go ahead and have the dealer replace the faulty module?
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I tested my new VCDS today a HEX-USB+CAN. I got CAN: Not Ready. But that's impossible.
My guess is that the OBD2 interface I got is faulty.
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My left roof airbag and driver side seat belt (retractor) were damaged all parts have been replaced but my airbag light still remains on.
I erased all the DTC codes with my techstream software.
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As far as trouble shooting faults in the ABS - does it store fault codes and how can they be read ?
Daughter's 2007 Elantra has ABS symbol lit for a week, I took it to a car wash and used the high pressure spray to clean the wheel hub areas and that may have fixed the problem but interested if ABS fault codes are stored and can be read.
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Refilled the wiper fluid on my fiance's 2011 Camry LE today and low and behold the ABS + Slip Indicator lights came on in the dash next time she started the car.
No codes are throwing from the ECU and it drives fine. Only thing I can think to do is Drive it full tilt and see if I lose the back end and/or try braking aggressively from 40+ mph. Just to see if the ABS/Trac Control systems are hosed. Don't want to go to the dealer to have them try the same thing and me pay for it...
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I have 2 x P0031 and 2 x P0051 after an accident. I rear ended an SUV. My hood got bent and the radiator got pushed in. The body shop said they don't think it was due to an accident. I can't possibly have 4 sensors go on me.
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The engine on my camry 2007 was overheated and I had the headgasket replaced but now it has misfire codes and rough idle this is a 2.4 engine I replaced 2 of the coils but still it has a rough idle... when the car is running it runs pretty good.
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Car's a 2005 SE I4, auto, US-made
So, I finally got the Techstream to work; I think. I had ordered one which never came, then ordered a second one, which showed up after some five weeks. It took some playing around with the software, but it seems that I finally got it to work tonight on my old, and slow, Dell laptop (Windows 7, 32-bit), which will be devoted purely to car diagnostics, since there are supposed trojan viruses in the software.
The car's temperature gauge had been running very low, I had lost top-end power, as in, hitting a wall at 80-85 mph+ where there was no acceleration despite the pedal being floored, and eventually the check engine light came on. After the light came on, I took it easy on the car and ordered the software and cable. In full disclosure, I did a complete coolant flush in late Summer/early Fall, 2015, pouring in the proper fluid. There are no leaks and the level is correct. There are no foul odors from the engine. There is a slight head gasket leak on the upper right hand corner which I plan to address when the temps warm up again (no codes pertaining to vacuum leaks).
Tonight I managed to use the software and cable for the first time and pulled the following codes:
Engine and ECT, Monitor Status COM, DTC (Code) P0128
Occupant Detection, Monitor Status None, DTC (Code) B1771
So, do the symptoms described above, including loss of power, "match" the bad thermostat diagnosis?
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The wifes camry all of a sudden tossed up CEL. Codes read P0100, P0110, and P0420. Car has about 125K miles, runs fine. I cleaned the MAF sensor with CRC cleaner just for that, pulled EFI fuse to reset, came back on immediately when started.
I was thinking of getting a used one from pull-a-part, but they only have 98 camrys at the moment. Any chance MAF is the same?
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My mother-in-law has a Camry and she is pulling codes for running lean and airflow leak detected. The little red circled device mounted on the side of the air intake boot is hissing out air, yet I don't even know what the thing is called....
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Car details: 2002 Toyota Camry V6 3L LXE - 151k miles.
My car took a little longer than normal to start up one morning, but I attributed it to the especially cold weather. I didn't have any problems the following two or three mornings, but my car suddenly died in traffic as I came to a stop, as it had many times before. What made this incidence different in particular was that I didn't feel my car shake or shudder before it shut down. I simply looked down and the Check Engine, oil, and battery lights had all come on, and my power steering was gone.
I attempted, as usual, to restart my car, but the starter only sat and tried to turn over and nothing more. Once I gave it a little gas, it caught, but as soon as I let the engine idle, the RPM dropped to 0 and the engine died. I sat and kept my foot on the gas for a minute or so after I got the car started in hopes that the car would stay on - when I let up, it idled roughly close at a very low RPM for several seconds, shuddered, and then died.
I was unable to get out and under the hood to try the typical trick of unplugging the MAFS and plugging it back in again, so I'm not sure if this would have worked as it has before despite having been replaced. Actually, before I was able to do this again, wouldn't you know it? My starter died. My car started giving a grinding, choking noise when I tried to start it up again, so I simply had it towed to the mechanic.
The mechanic declared the starter dead, which is unusual given I just had it replaced several months ago (could just be a lemon, I guess), so I had it replaced and they said the car started and ran great afterwards. They could not replicate the problem (like previous times), the computer gave no codes.
I noticed after the starter choked, my odometer lost power and my clock reset.
Is it possible that it's some problem with the battery?
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A couple of weeks ago the check engine light came on and when I had the codes checked it showed a problem with the EGR valve. I replaced it and the light went off. A week later the check engine light came back on but when I had the error codes checked there weren't any. After a few days the light went off but earlier today it came back on. There are still no error codes.
I forgot to mention that it's a 2000 Camry, 6-cyl.
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2003 Camry LE, 4 cyl, 165k miles – Got all of the above codes. Obviously checked gas cap and no issues there. Checked both VSV underhood and had clicking. Checked VSV at canister under vehicle and no clicking. Used a Dremel oscillating tool with flat metal blade to cut off rusted Philips head screw. Removed VSV and checked by jumpering to battery. No clicking, but did draw a tiny arc. That told me it was “trying” to actuate. Sprayed PB Blaster into hose fittings of VSV and mowed the lawn. Came back to VSV and it now actuated – but very slowly and delayed. Sprayed electrical contact cleaner in hose fittings with the VSV jumpered and open. Activated VSV several times and sprayed contact cleaner through the hose fittings several times – both directions. VSV began to active quickly. Put VSV back on vehicle. SES light went out by itself after it ran the EVAP test.
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Car: Toyota Camry 2002 .. Mileage: 150K
Symptom:Check Engine light went on a few days ago.
Checked codes and got these (3):
1) P0420
2) P1310 and
3) P0420 P ("Pending" ?)
I also checked I/M Readiness and got these suspicious-looking values:CAT: NOT RDYEVAP: NOT RDYO2S: NOT RDYH02S: NOT RDY
NOTE all the other I/M values were N/A
Researching the Codes, it sounded like Ignition, and possibly the O2 sensor on the Catalytic Convertor. I had just had some engine work done by the dealer -- actually, replaced spark plugs -- so I figured to go back and bitch him out for screwing up my car.
A few days later, before I could engage my Rage, I went back and re-scanned. First I noticed the CEL was now OFF. Scanning, I now I get "NO CODES", and all the I/M values are now N/A; No more "NOT RDY".
What do you all make of this? Should I be concerned now that the CEL is Off, and I get No Codes with a scan?Or maybe I should take it to AutoZone for their free CEL diagnosis -- would their machine be more thorough than mine (Autel MaxioScan 300)??
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I did a search on the CEL P0770 and P0765 codes and I find plenty in regards to the light on but every post I have seen, says the tranny is working fine. Not the case with mine. Tranny is slipping, and if you let it sit for 30 minutes or so, it will run fine then start surging and slipping. Got to where I couldn't get it to move at all. It says B, D E trans shift solenoid for the codes. I don't want to put in this new solenoid and have not fix the issue. Is my tranny toast? Seems electrical since it will work fine once it sits for a bit. Plus, with the OD disengaged, it seemed to work fine, but even then it was acting up? I bought it used with 140k and don't know if tranny was serviced or not. I think it has due to lots of oil change receipts etc from the past 4 years..
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I had my 2000 Toyota Camry with 133,921 miles on it seen because of the check engine light.The codes obtained at the repair shop were:
P0136: Oxygen Sensor CKT Malfunction Bank 1 Sensor 2
P0446: Evap Control system Vent CKT Malfunction
They then ran a smoke test and found that the charcoal canister was leaking and needed replacement. The mechanic said that not doing the above would not affect the car's performance or its safety but it would not pass inspection with the check engine light on and with those codes.
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