Our 2007 Camry dashboard lights up like as it should (regardless of lighting conditions) then after starting the engine or turning the key to the ON position, it dims to total darkness in about 3 seconds. I need this fixed tonight otherwise my wife will take my Tundra to work.
View 4 RepliesHave the dimming red readout problem? I start the car and it's normal and then after driving for a while the led screen drops out and you barely see the digits?
Also, the digital speedo in the same screen does not read accurately, it doesn't keep up with the real speed changes and it just shows a speed and then gets stuck.
When I turn on the headlights of my 2010 the dash backlight dims considerably. It becomes difficult to see/read when the sun hits it just right...especially wearing polarized sunglasses. I have the dimmer switch set all the way high. Is there a way to increase the backlighting or have it not dim as much with the headlights on?
View 8 RepliesI have this problem of my in dash cluster flickers and dims at the same time? Also the green lights on indicator flickers and disappears? Took it to the Dealer and put in a new multi function switch, but still does the same thing?
View 1 Replies1999 Olds Intrigue, 3.8 eng.Last month, I replaced the Oil Level sensor while changing the oil, which was causing an oil leak due to a broke seal. Three weeks later, the "Low Oil" light came on and stayed on shortly after starting the car. I checked the oil level and it was full. I went ahead and drove it to work. No engine operating errors during the drive. While continuing to drive the car (yes, driving it), I did notice that the light stays off after starting the engine at operating temps, but comes on while the engine is cool (Faulty sensor?) I asked an Autozone associate about a Oil Pressure gauge to test the engine but was told that they dont sell such a thing. Chiltons repair manual says to use a 3amp fuse jumper to test the Oil Level and Oil Pressure sensor. What a fuse jumper is.
View 5 Replies2001 Prius with 230,000 miles, replacement hybrid battery in January 2009 at 197,000 miles has recently been having mutliple electronic problems. Current status is:
o Disconnect the 12 v battery for one or two days.
o Re-connect the 12 v battery.
o Turn key and the ICE starts up and runs normally for about 20 seconds, but all warning lights are on: Red Triangle, PS, ! Car.
o ICE begins to shudder and shake as if it is attempting to engage something that won't turn.
o After about 15-20 seconds of shudder/shake the ICE dies and nothing will happen until I start over at disconnect of 12v battery.
I am guessing that the ICE is trying to engage the motor/generator that recharges the main battery, but it is stuck. Is that what is called "the inverter"?
Having problem with their Electronic Power Steering (EPS)? My new 2011 Sonata SE's EPS failed numerous times at ~500 miles. Failures all occurred shortly after starting the car when it had been sitting for a couple of hours. The EPS and ESC fail lights came on and I lost my power steering when I tried to make my first turn. The problem always cleared when I shut the car off and restarted. My dealer service department reset the computer in the steering column and noted that this is the first time they've had to work this sort of problem. Hopefully that fixed it for good...two days so far with no problems. Maybe a software glitch?
View 12 RepliesI have a 1998 Chrysler Concorde with 67,600K. The engine is starting to stall shortly after driving a few miles with no warning other than the engine light coming on. I can put the car in neutral and it will start right up and run just fine. The engine temperature is fine.
View 1 RepliesI purchased a set of HIDs for my 2010 SE fogs last week from DDM Tuning and couldn't wait to install them. Since I purchased my low beam set from there, it made a lot of sense to get the matching pair from them too. Anyway, after the install, all was working fine. I did a few test sessions to make sure they would turn off and on the way they were supposed to and they passed.
As I am driving home from a friends house (shortly after the install), I realized that my switch was turn to ON and not AUTO. I turned my switch from ON to AUTO while driving.. After doing so, I noticed that the road in front of my were not as bright as they were before turning the switch. I pulled over and saw that my fog lights were no longer on.. I played with the fog light switch switch, turning them off and on and the only light I would see go on and off, was the one on my dash (the fog lamp indicator).
I have since switched ballasts with my low beams and STILL.. NOTHING. I don't understand what happened and why BOTH fogs have gone out?!? I checked the 10A fuse under the hood that is linked to the front fogs and it's good. I checked the HID bulb and it looks to be burned out, BUT I also plugged my stock halogen H11 bulb into the socket and NOTHING. That puzzles me more..
Over the past year on my 2002 Camry, I have had my CE light come on and on the next start, the VSC TRAC lights will flash back and forth and then stay on shortly after moving the car. This seems to happen soon after a gas filling. I can put my reader on and usually find codes 0440 and 0402 which I can clear the CEL but the VSC TRAC light comes back on the next time I move the car. I have taken it to a dealer three times now and they have found no apparent problem and cleared the lights. But maybe the next time I fill up, it happens again . . . but not every time I fill up. I have read about the "fix" by shorting out pins 4 and 10 but I am not comfortable with that right now as there has to be a specific reason this is happening.
View 5 Repliesi just picked up an '07 Camry XLE and every time I start the car (push start button) the horn gives me 3 quick honks. Same happens with the remote start. How to turn that off? Besides just not starting the car
View 1 RepliesA 2007 Toyota Camry 2.4 was brought into the shop I work at smoking badly and running terrible. The car had been run hot because the radiator was busted and it blew the head gasket. So I pulled the head and sent if off to the machine shop to have it checked. They said it was badly warped across three cylinder and they resurfaced it.
Now I have everything re assembled, but it simply will not start. All the timing marks on the timing chain line up where they should be. All four coils are firing. Injectors wires pulse noid lights. A few times it has hit and sputtered like it was trying to start but never successfully does.
I've a 2007 Toyota Camry (LE 2.4 L 4-cylinder). Couple of days ago I tried to start the car and I heard this banging/grunting sound as I started the car. And, after the car started the engine is running much louder. Oddly enough when I got out of the car and opened the hood the noise didn't seem that loud. In other words, it sounds louder from inside the car than standing outside with the hood open.
Before all this, the engine ran very smoothly and very quite. Here is a link for two audio files that captures the sounds. Note that I recorded these two clips from inside the car.
First when is when I'm starting the engine (the sound can be heard at around 6-7 seconds): [URL] ....
Second is when the engine is running loud (I'm not driving the car...just sitting there letting the engine run): [URL] ....
2007 camry CE remote start not starting motor. push button, cars sounds doors click but motor does not start.
View 5 RepliesWhile driving to work this morning my I4 shook hard, the dash dinged twice, the heater blower went off, and the dash lights either went dim or off. Just as the engine about hit its last revolution, it fired itself right back up and off I went.
The car had been driven for at least 45 minutes, it has 3/4 tank of gas, it was 21 degrees outside, and I was at a complete stop with my foot on the break. When it died I immediately put it in park but it restarted itself. I drove the rest of the way to the office and drove an hour home tonight without incident. When the car went down I noticed that the "miles since start" on my dash display went to zero. To me that sounds like an electrical shutdown. I do have a new battery too, it's less than a year old and the terminals are clean.
This car had 147,000 miles on it but only 50,000 miles on a rebuilt engine.
today i was installing some lights in my car. i decided to use the shift light as my power source so i tapped into it but during the process i accidentally shorted it and i believe i blew a fuse somewhere. the shift light hvac control and the radio lights no longer turn on. Where is the fuse that blew and is it possible that theres a fuse behind the radio that blew?
View 4 RepliesHaving an issue with my wife's 2007 camry V6. We got the car new and the orig battery lasted over 3 years until a trip NY where the intr light was left on for a couple of days. After several tries, the battery took a jump from a tow truck and got us home. The car ran for a few days then we had starting issues as well as the dash lights would flicker and the speedo neelde would jump along with the RPM gauge. So we changed out the battery.
Now we only get about a year per battery. We also noticed the drained batteries are typically accompanied with misfiring and a bad coilpack. Not sure how that fits into the equation but we have changed 3 of the 6 coil packs. The most recent batt swap only lasted 7 months. The flickering lights and jumping RPM n Speedo needles happen last firday when my wife called me to say "its at it again" driving rough, ABS light, Ck eng light on and flashing.
She got home late and parked it in the garage. The next morning i went out to inspect and it wouldn't start. Fast clicking sound of a dead batt. I changed the battery (Costco batt fitment 24f i believe) yesterday (Monday). She called this morning and the car is still riding rough and the ck eng light is on. My guess is another coilpack.
Sometimes when I get in the car the infotainment screen dims itself after a few minutes so that the information is barely visible. It usually comes back to life after about ten minutes. The manual mentions dimming the screen but doesn't elaborate. Is there a dimming switch for that screen?
View 3 RepliesI've noticed that if I have the dimmer wheel dialed up to maximum brightness before the detente that puts the mfd back to regular daytime brightness (hope this makes sense), in about the next minute and a half after I turn the headlights on, the mfd dims to roughly half the original brightness.
View 1 RepliesToday I've been working on fixing the Door Ajar problem that's developed in my 2002 ranger extended cab. I haven't made any progress taking the main doors apart and testing the switches. Doing a little research on the forum I learned that the door ajar wiring is tied in with the dome/instrument dimmer. Well that's interesting because my instrument dimmer was never worker properly. It dims the running lights instead of anything in the cab, and if I turn it down too low, the fog lights won't function.
So I have a few questions:
+What's the way to determine which door, if any, is sending "door ajar"? I'd rather not take the back doors apart, and check the wiring on each door.
+What's the deal with my dimmer?
Having trouble with the auto dimming mechanism of the rear view mirror? Mine seldom dims when driving at night when other cars are behind me hitting the mirror with their headlights.
I tested it by shining a small flashlight on the sensor and it responds as expected, but it just doesn't work in the real world. I don't think my expectations are too high as my wife's Camry mirror works great, just not my Avalon...
Of course the dealer said it was operating correctly after shining a light on it in the shop, but wasn't interested in doing a road test.