Camry :: 2007 L4 Engine Stalled While Idling In Traffic
Apr 20, 2015
I had a previous post regarding this when it started, but it seems to have now changed. Twice this morning, both while idling still in traffic, my engine stalled. Turning the key it starts right back up and runs fine. I'm hoping that it doesn't morf into stalling at speed.
Originally this happened 2-3 times a couple of months ago. It would die and then catch itself and keep running. Again, each time while idling in traffic. Once or twice it also seemed as though it was ignoring the throttle request for just a second, then took right off.
Two things come to mind, and OBTW, no codes thrown ever. What do you think about throttle position sensor or gas pedal issues! I'm wondering if it's losing track of throttle position and taking it to a low level and a stall?
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A few days ago I noticed a whining noise coming from the engine and thought it was the power steering unit or the alternator. I was going to bring it in to the dealer this week but last night while driving, the check vsc light and the ABS light came on momentarily and then went off. Then it happened again and again until the lights began to dim and the engine started to shudder. So I quickly started driving home and saw the speedometer going from 0 to 60 mph, the headlights were practically off, the power window would not close, the console lights alternated from dark to lit repeatedly and the car was bucking as I sped home.
I knew the car was running on the battery alone and it was now very low.When I finally had to stop at a traffic light it stalled and would not start. After waiting 20 minutes for a tow truck, I tried to start it and it started. So I immediately drove approximately 3 minutes to a Service Station near my home and parked it there and then canceled the tow truck. Does this sound like the alternator went bad? I should also mention that yesterday before this whole incident took place, while I was stopped at a light with my food on the brake I noticed the brake pedal depress ever so slightly. I didn't think much of it because I knew I had an issue with that whining noise and was going to bring the car into the dealer Monday.
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Well I drove the wife to work in her Prius this morning. I noticed in heavy stop go traffic, the engine was idling more than normal. Normally the EV light is on when I am stationary ( idle) in traffic, but for some reason today almost more than 70% of the stop go traffic the RPM was felt via the brake pedal and EV light was off, but the battery had at least 3 bars or more I think.
The load on the vehicle was the usual, AC on at 65 in ECO mode and radio. I guess this question might be more a hybrid newbie question than anything else. So, just curious what "drives" the vehicle to be in EV mode when stationary in traffic or in my case earlier this morning what prevented it?
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I am the original owner of a 2007 Camry SE V6 with 95K miles.The car has been meticulously maintained. About 2 weeks ago I started to notice a mysterious sound coming from the passenger side of the engine ONLY when the engine is idling. It has a higher, light pitch but when revving the engine slightly it goes away. Obviously when driving it can not be heard with all the other road noise etc. Also it makes this sound at different times, sometimes days with no noise, very irregularly. I checked that section of the engine bay and see no moisture, leakage or discoloration anywhere. Also serpentine belt shows no wear or wobble. Could it come from the water pump? I am very concerned that something will soon snap off, break and leave me stranded.
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My 4 cylinder Tacoma vibrates a lot when it is idling, especially sitting in "drive" at traffic lights. My regular mechanic has tried various things to remedy it but none has really worked. He suggested the valves may need to be adjusted. Is this plausible? Or is he off-base? And is it really expensive?
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I have a 99 Mazda 626 (automatic) and in the past year it has stalled out on 3 separate occasions after coming to a stop at a stoplight. The car sputters off, the wheel locks and it just dies. After this happens the car won't click over to start. However, after letting it sit for several hours, the car will start up again without any problem like nothing was wrong.
I even had the car towed to a mechanic after one of these instances. The car was towed to the shop on a Saturday and on Monday when the mechanic went to see what was wrong, the car started up fine and showed no signs of an issue. I have always been able to start it up without a problem on a day to day basis. (The car also just recently got a lot louder -- I found a sizable hole in the B pipe--so I don't think the noise is related. Anyway, I just don't want to stall out in traffic again so is it time to buy a new fuel pump or could a smaller fix take care of the problem?
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My Camry 2007 showing strange issue , whenever I struck in traffic & putting brake too many times heat indicator show car is warming up & dial reaching to mid level same is the case whenever I stop on a signal
To counter this I have to run ac so that radiator fans will turn , after turning on ac it start reaching to normal.
This issue starts happening few weeks back ,before it never shows such issue, is it the coolant that I need to replace or what ??
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Recently with sunny days, 25-30 degrees celsius, my late 06' CRDI Santa Fe starts to shut off while in the traffic jam. After engine restart car runs fine while idling but after i put in Drive (its a 5 speed AT) it shuts off again. After 2-3 restarts i may able to pull my car aside the road and let it cool. One other thing i have noticed is the temperature gauge. The needle is sitting slightly under middle mark and my torque app shows 114-115 degrees celsius ? It is pretty high dont you think ? Sometimes its over the middle bar and then my OBD torque app shows 120 degrees. I would exclude Crankshaft position sensor, because car restarts just fine, if it was CPS then it should not start for a while?
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My car just stalled a few minutes after I started smelling fuel. I managed to get the car to a safe place and I realized that I was leaking fuel from the engine compartment. It seems as if the fuel is coming from a part of the fuel rail. This is the area where the leak was coming from....the orange/yellow plastic thing in the middle is where the fuel is dripping from.....
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I hate trying to describe noises. When idling at lights I hear AC noise. Not the air coming through the vent. It's something else. Is that normal? Previous cars were silent when new, wheezing didn't happen until older.
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I brought this 2005 Camry last March of 2013. It has an faulty engine computer rendering vehicle inoperable and useless. It died in the middle of traffic not too long ago, and I almost was t-boned. Then it died in the middle of the turn lane and I had to restart it three times to get it to a repair shop where they reflashed the engine computer. Now today, May 25th, it did it again! Right after I pulled out of my driveway it died on the road. I was not on Highway 94 otherwise I would have been rear-ended.
I believe there is a TSB on a faulty engine computer for the 2005 to 2006 Toyota Camry and it should be covered under emissions warranty and this is a serious safety issue, I almost had my car smashed up the first time! Until this problem is fixed, I wouldn't feel comfortable taking it out on a roadtrip. Right now I have a 9 grand paperweight in my driveway, and in fact my 1996 F-150 has been much more reliable than this Camry. I don't want this to drag on for a week, if its not covered under emissons warranty/by Toyota, I will just order a used engine computer and install it.
I am going to order a engine computer and see if the problem goes away. When it died the second time, I had to restart three or four times to get back to my driveway where I left car.
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A week and a half ago, the Service Engine Soon (SES) light came on and has stayed on pretty consistently since. Shortly thereafter, the Battery light came on sporadically, but over the last couple of days, it's started staying on. Today, the car stalled while I was idling briefly. I had put the car in neutral so as to "turn down" a rattling noise, then shifted back into drive when the car stalled out. All of the dash lights came on, and I was able to restart the car and make it home 20 some miles without further incident, but it's definitely unsettling.
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My Olds 98 has been having a very annoying problem and it's only been getting worse and worse as of late..
Ever since day one my car has always stalled while idling at a red light (in drive, in park it didn't really stall), well just a couple of weeks ago, if my tank fell below 1/4 it would stall repeatedly as if it were out of gas, and it has only been getting worse from there, stalling constantly at 1/2, 3/4.. And now today I am at a full tank of gas and I stalled about 6 times on my street, it's completely embarassing and I'm really close to just driving it off of a cliff.
Occasionally I would be able to "revive" it on the highway if I pump the gas aggressively, but that just delays the inevitable for about 10 seconds. Also, the noise it makes as it's stalling (and as I'm pumping the gas pedal) is a loud chirping noise, I'm not sure if the 2 are related but sometimes my car would also jerk back for a split second driving 70mph or more, and it'd send make my (digital) speedometer go haywire.
I should also mention that I had a previous problem where my back tired exploded causing a ton of wires near the back of my car (and near the gas tank) to rip apart.
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I have a 94 EB AWD I am restoring and have recently picked up an 88 EB to restore as well. The 88 did not run. Here's a list of things done.. New head gaskets, new fuel pump, full tune up, radiator flush n fill, oil change, new transmission and rear seal, new battery, new iac valve, many new lights etc. Well here's where your expertise may come in.. the van starts and runs fine for the first minute or two, but when stopped at red lights the van wants to stall.. and while idling actually has stalled. I was going to replace the MAP sensor as I have found that sometimes causes idling issues. I assume the 88 does not have the MAF sensor to clean/replace? Any other things I could check before heading to the vaccuum lines? Also, both power mirrors are inop, the horn is inop and the gas gauge reads CO. I will check the fuses for those problems..
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I have a 2012 Prius. It has twice shut down spontaneously when idling while in traffic. I have explained this, the Service Advisor said he had never heard of it. My question is: why is this happening? The car has been properly serviced. It never happened with my 2006 Prius.
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I have a 4-cyl 2007 Camry XLE. I changed out the plugs, simple enough. but now the car seems to be idling too low, just a tick below 500 RPM. Its causing some minor vibrations as also the AC is not working at a stop, it just blow warm air. As soon as i push on the gas the RPM jerk up pretty sudden, the air pressure from the vents increases and its cooler. So it seems the AC issues is related to the RPM being too low so once i get the RPM's back up it should be good to go.
These are the stock Denzo SK20R11 plugs that were in the car : [URL] ....
And these are the equivalent NGK IFR6T11 plugs i put in [URL] .....
So, I thought maybe because the ECU got reset maybe some re-calibration, but I have driven a good 100 miles on it and no change so i doubt that's it.
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So just last night I began having a small issue with my R32. While idling, the RPM's slowly starting getting lower to the point where the car almost stalled, probably in the neighborhood of around 300rpms, then it would slowly increase back to normal idle. It did this a few times then while driving and a steady cruise of 35mph I felt a large power loss for a second or two. This repeated a few times until I got home and parked it. I also noticed that the RPM's would fall much, much faster between shifts than normal during this episode. I drove it a short distance today. It it showed no signs of the same problem. Any possible causes?
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Weeks ago, I was waiting for someone with my car idling and suddenly it just stalled. The battery power was still on but the engine died. When I restart it, it starts up but then dies after a few seconds. After trying 3-4 times it no longer starts. I had it towed to the repair shop and by the time they went to look at it, it started up just fine. A few days later I was driving (like 1 min from my house) and the car engine died, again the battery was still working. Power steering was gone. I coasted off the road and tried to start it--again it would start up and then die and then after a few tries it no longer starts. I had it brought to the repair shop. Again, it started fine for them but they changed out the battery just to see. I also had fuel cleaner put in the gas tank.
Just to be safe, I brought it to a dealer since my normal mechanic couldn't find anything. At the dealership they ran codes and didn't find any. They said that sometime the lines to the cams or crank get corroded but that mine looked fine. Since it wasn't doing it for them, they didn't have any other recommendations. Everything has been fine for the last few weeks and then I went to start my car last night. It started fine even though it's really cold and hasn't been driven in a few days. While I was scraping the car, I could hear the engine turn off. When I re-started it the same pattern happened--restarted the first few times and then died and then wouldn't even start. I don't even know what to do at this point since it only seems to happen close or at home and not for repair places.
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I have a Elantra GT 2014 with about 7000 miles on it. It has been running great, pretty good gas mileage, about 28.5mpg combined. However, I do have a small irratation with it. Sometimes, during my drives, if I stop at a Red light and put my car in neutral gear, I felt the engines does a strong vibration for a few seconds sometimes. It's kinda annoying. Is that a sign of a problem for the engine in the future? or am I just being too picky?
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My high mileage 2002 SC430 seems to shake very slightly when I the car is idling at traffic lights (both when it is warm and when it is cold). The shaking is very very slight but it is noticeable. The shaking does not occur if the air conditioning is running or when the car is moving. The check engine light is not on.
The previous owner did mention that the alternator may need to be replaced eventually, but I don't know if this could be related.
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1995 dodge neon... When I turn the car off, it burps, or bubbles air into the overfill tank. Car now also overheats when idling or in stop and go traffic. Temperature goes down when running heater.Not sure if it is the water pump or an issue with the radiator.
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