Camry :: 2007 - Just Died With No Electrical Connection
May 12, 2015
2 days ago my mother borrowed my 2007 camry. When she brought it back a few hours later it sounded really loud (almost like a car without a muffler). Without getting a lot of details I find out she was driving it all afternoon in 3rd (it is an automatic). It was a mix of highway and regular roads
Today I drove it to work (mostly freeway) and as I exited a bunch of panel lights lit up and the internal panel lights were flashing (like the battery was dying). I noticed the clock on the radio was not on. I turned the car off and it would not come back on... it would not even turn over. I had someone jump it a few times and it would start, but electrical would flash and it would just die. I had it towed to my autoshop, but was curious if driving it in 3rd cause it? I am pretty sure it is not the battery and that was replaced within the last few years.
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OK, call me stupid but, what is the two-wire electrical connection on the differential of my '87 F250 lariat? I'm tracing all the wires from the rear to the front of the truck and replacing everything to make like new. I've never seen anything like this before.
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My 07 camry's battery died last week and I got it jumped, drove about a mile and while at idle it felt as if the alternator was not charging the battery and It was slowly dying. Took it to Tires Plus, they said the computer forgot how to idle, so it was misfiring and threatening to shut down at every idle. 80 dollars later...it was fixed, for a week.
This morning, my battery was dead again, again from leaving a power connection unscrewed that came from my fog lights attached to the battery in the car after cleaning it on sunday, called AAA. He said that I have to get a screw to screw it back in or it will die once I turn off the engine again.
I work at a construction plant so we have quite a few nuts and washers laying around. Well it had a rough idle again, on the way to work, lights would be bright then dim again and vibrating the car, like it's struggling to keep the power.
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So it worked fine, then one day I get in and start it up and I get a "no connection" message. I can change back and forth between XM 1 2 & 3. But I cannot change stations or even scroll to my radio ID.
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I recently got a 2014 Camry SE and have started to experience problems with the USB port in the center.
I generally plug in my 5th gen iPod to listen to audio, but I've started to get an connection error. The message reads Connection error. Please consult your Owner's Manual for instruction on how to connect the USB device." (see image link below)
Sometimes the iPod will connect, but most times it won't. If it does connect, the error will appear when I hit a big bump or pot hole, leading me to believe there might be a connection or soldering failure somewhere.
I can confirm that it's not the iPod's problem, my cell phone, tablet, or any other device plugged in will not get a power signal either. The iPod will connect via Bluetooth, but that is not optimal as I'd rather have my phone connected for hands-free calling.
If not, how easy is it to open up the console to get at the connection to check/fix it myself?
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I started using the Bluetooth connection to stream pandora over using entune lately because entune seems to take forever to start up and I just start pandora with Siri and turn to the Bluetooth input on my head unit. This worked good for a few weeks and now all the sudden it doesn't have sound.. The screen shows what song is playing and I can use my steering wheel controls to skip songs and it shows the progress bar of the song duration progressing but no sound? I have not tried it thru the entune app since this started happening so I am not sure if it works that way recently(I'm usually drivig and don't want to fumble around turning on hotspot to connect to entune).
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I own a 2009 Elantra Touring and it has treated me very well up until this past Saturday. Everything on the passenger side of the car (headlights, blinkers, mirrors, windows, locks, lights inside, break lights, tail lights, and reverse lights). What has happened, all I know is that when I turned my car on nothing worked on that side. I have checked the fuses that are inside on my drivers side and they all look just fine. I think I read somewhere that there may be fuses under the hood.
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So I bought my 1987 F150 XLT 4X4 (4spd) about two weeks ago and haven't had any issues with it so far... until now. As soon as I got it I did a full tune up. Changed plugs, cap, rotor, fuel filter, new battery, sea foamed it, fuel filter, ran a bottle of fuel stabilizer through it, new pvc valve, cleaned the throttle body, oil change, etc., ( all the usual things).
Was running fine up until two days ago when I was driving down the highway doing about 90km/hr in 4th when the truck suddenly lost power, sputtered and died. Tried to start it again and it will turn over but not start. So I get a nice expensive tow home and start to diagnose the problem. It is not a fuel issue. I can hear the pumps coming on, and fuel is coming out of the fuel filter so I cross that off the list.
Next I check for spark. No spark at all. So I run some tests. Battery is putting out 12V, about 10 when cranking. The solenoid is getting power and putting out power. No visible damage to any of the wiring, and all the grounds look good.
Next I just went ahead and swapped out the coil thinking that could be the issue. Didn't work. So I preform some more tests on the old and new coils. Both are grounded and having voltage pass through them. Next I take the TFI module off the distributor and check for resistance. Everything still checks out fine. Now I am thinking that the only thing left could be the PIP in the distributor. So instead of taking the dist apart and screwing around I go ahead a get a brand new dist and throw it in.
Now I am stoked and thinking that I finally fixed my truck and go to start it up and.... no spark. It still turns over but no start. I am trying to provide every bit of detail that I can. When I say I tested all the components I mean I REALLY tested them. I did both tests from the Haynes manual and from various sources off this site.
I am almost at the point of getting it towed to the shop, which I really do not want to do. A day before this happened I degreased the engine and VERY carefully sprayed it off with water. In the process I am thinking I may have damaged something?
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I have a '93 Acura Legend type 2 which I love. However, last week I jumped it because I don't drive it much, unhooked the jumper cables, let the car run for about 10 minutes; I was ready to go so I turned on the headlights and the car immediately just died, like COMPLETELY. No lights, clicks or any electrical activity of any kind. Complete deathly silence. I assume it's either a main fuse, relay, or else (gulp) a short somewhere.
If this could be a fuse or relay, which one(s) it could be?
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I have been debugging DTC codes 2237/2238 and what sounds like detonation in a failed catalytic converter in my old 2007 Prius (375,000 miles!), I just removed the wipers and cowl yesterday to look at the air/fuel ratio sensor connection, and my connector appears to be melted somewhat, sides of the connector show signs of melting I am guessing that there is a connection problem stemming from this and the root cause of my DTC codes.
Can the four wires each side be removed so I can get the connector out to look at it carefully?
Can the bad connector be removed and the four wires be simply spliced together to get the air/fuel sensor working again? I did note that the colors of the wires going in are NOT the same as the colors of the wires going out.
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I have a 2007 LS 460. Bluetooth connects fine to my phone and works great for few minutes. Bluetooth disconnects and I get a message to the meaning that Emergency calls terminates the bluetooth connection. Mind you that I did not touch anything nor have I made any emergency calls to cause this. I have to shut off the car and started it again to reconnect which again only lasts few minutes.
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After installing new battery, I have no functioning air conditioning or heating system. When I select the climate button I get a message (check connection to air condition). What is going on?
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I got home from work today and pressed the power button to shut the car off and the car completely died (door locks and open door dinger worked) and would not restart after multiple attempts. The dash was completely dead. I waited a couple minutes and it started just fine like normal. I went straight to the dealership that does the maintenance to have them look at it and the service manager pretty much told me that they couldn't find anything wrong with it. I have since started, driven and turned it off a few times since without any problem, differences from normal, or warning lights. This is the first time anything has ever acted up after 98500 miles.
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My points to electronic conversion suffered this problem, just started, set the timing and was idling, like ten minutes or more, suddendly the engine died, no spark, immediately I noticed the module was very hot, so was the ignition coil, it's a TFI "square" coil from a 1987 Econoline I6, the module is a new Spartan brand name blue module.
I cooled the module with a wet rag and the engine came back to life. I hooked up the module and the coil with full 12V, no ballast resistance for the coil, I'm feeling this is the problem, maybe this coil needed a ballast resistor?
I have this 1.6 ohmm ballast, if I install this, will the coil run cooler and put less strain in the module, so it won't overheat? or the TFI coil is wrong for the Duraspark ? it was running fine with the points, never missed a beat, never tested how hot it run with the points though, but I did used the ballast resistor with the points.
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My '84 F150 4X4 inline 6 Died last night while driving. just conked out and died right there on the spot. no sputter... no gasping... just instant death...
after some investigation i found i wasn't getting spark anywhere. not at the plugs, not at coil. I have replaced the ignition module to no avail. still no spark I am going to swap in a the coil tonight. sure do hope this works.
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I just bought my first Lexus. It is a 2009 ES350 with navigation. I can use the hands free with no problem and even picks up SIRI but when I tried transferring my contacts from my iphone4s to the phone book it loses connection every time. Same thing when I try to stream music.
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How to disable those really useful messages like "phone connection successful" when using the backup camera?
Being sarcastic but I think those messages are actually a safety hazard when using the back up camera since they just pop a take up a lot of screen real estate that I would rather see used to see if I'm about to hit some car or pedestrian.
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There is an air leak and hissing sound at the connection of the master cylinder to the brake booster. Brake pedal travels nearly to the floorboard before engaging the brake. What is the problem and how can I fix it myself? (Special note: the brake fluid was very low and is now topped off to the maximum level . Adding the brake fluid caused very little change to the brake pedal travel.)
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Driving down the road, vehicle lost all electrical power and died. There doesn't appear to be any juice at all to start it. The battery is fine (along with the terminals), the starter is okay too (although I don't see why that would affect total electrical flow). There were not any alarms on the vehicle. Is it the fuse box (negative terminal) or possibly the alternator? The alternator had been charging, and the battery showed that it had juice left in it. What would cause the vehicle to just die like that, in the middle of driving it? It's an LS type blazer with a 4.3 L engine.
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Over the weekend I was driving my 2000 F350 and the alternator died (found out later). The shop said they replaced the alternator but it wasn't charging. They later told me it was because the isolator failed. My 2nd battery WAS a yellow gel battery. Before the battery (in series) was an 50 amp circuit breaker...........that blew apart.........and the battery had a melted off side terminal. It looked like the 'sealed gel battery" had been 'leaking for a while" (as there was funky acid type white corrosion deposits in a few places. Any speculation what happened here?
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I don't have power 12V inside car, means I cant charge my phone, nor anything else. On both places, on dashboard below radio/CD and inside compartment between front seats.
I'm assuming cct breaker died and have to replace it.
I know where cct breaker panel is but how to know which one I have to replace?
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