I currently own a 07 Toyota Camry Hybrid & the check "VSC" light came on and I lost power to my brakes. What does the light have to do with the power to brakes?
View 3 RepliesDriving home from movies tonight, I lost power steering and power brakes and the pump started growling. Looked in the reservoir and it was all foamed up. Within the last 20k mi I have flushed the system and refilled with power steering fluid. No apparent leaks at this time. And happened like someone flipped a switch. Fine one turn, nothing the next. What are the chances this is a fluid issue and not a mechanical one? Start with flushing system and adding Mercon V? Or is it likely pump is damaged?
View 7 RepliesYesterday while driving, i lost all power steering and power brakes (you would automatically think Booster). I pulled over, popped the hood and fluid was spewing from behind the power steering pump somewhere. I limped the truck home about 20 miles. I checked brake fluid and it was full. checked power steering fluid and it appeared to be empty. Yet when i added fluid it took less than a half quart. I started the vehicle to pressurize the pump and find the leak. Yet the pump never pumped any fluid. (one would thing pump was out) I am baffled as to if the pump went out, why fluid loss? If the booster was out, why do i still have brakes just without power assist? Andif a hose is blown, why such small fluid loss? I dont want to just start replacing parts till it get the right one
View 1 RepliesI have a 2006 Toyota Solara V-6. I was driving down the street with no indication of what was about to happen. All of the sudden my check engine light came on and the car lost all power. I had the car towed home and had a mechanic look at it he put his scanner on it and I'm not sure what codes if any came up but he decided it was the ECM so he found a used one with a warranty and ordered it, he put it in and it did the same thing it turns over but wont start. What could it be ?
View 13 RepliesIve got an 02 2wd escape with the v6. Its been an excellent truck until here recently. The wife has had a weird problem twice now, that I have been unable to reproduce. She says the check engine light and low oil light come on and she loses power steering. Shutting it off and restarting fixes the issue.
Took a 400 mile road trip with it last weekend and never had an issue. Only thing I noticed , the readiness meters never went ready. Even after that trip, It still shows a systems not ready code.
Tonight the wife had the issue again. Shutdown and restart fixed it. Battery cables are clean and tight, several grounds were freshly cleaned a couple months ago.
Was driving on interstate and car started to loose power. Replaced battery and before I could make it home car started to loose power again (lost power steering and power brakes). Charged battery, replaced alternator, and now car starts fine but there are issues.
1) VGRS, VCS, and AFS lifts are on.
2) Steering wheel is 90 degrees off.
Car ran fine before alternator/battery replacement.
Ok yesterday while driving my truck the glow plug light came on couple times and lost power but the light would turn off and power came back. It has done this before and it was the injector harness grounding out on the engine. I replaced that last time. I checked over the knew one and did not see any chaffing on the harness.
Now this morning I go outside to start it and I can hear my fuel pump and vacuum pump but injectors wouldn't cycle. It has also done this before but I could never figure out why. Last time I tore into it checking through my wiring harness and couldn't find anything. When I put it back together it started fine.
It's a 2004 6.0 excursion with about 190,000 miles. At 185,000 I pulled the motor and did new oem head gaskets, Arp head studs, bulletproof egr cooler and oil cooler system, bulletproof 48v ficm, strictly diesel regulated return, and I've been running gear heads srl tune before and after the truck was rebuilt.
Recently the truck has been acting up at random times. While running the gear head srl tune, the truck will lose power, the boost gauge on my edge insight will get stuck along with Icp psi, the water in fuel light and glow plug light will come on, and then after a few seconds it will clear itself and run fine. Last night I was on a two lane road and putting my foot into it and the truck did the same thing where it loses power, but this time the truck actually died on me while I was cruising at 60.
Same lights were on but this time the cruise control light fluttered while the truck was in the midst of dying. I tried restarting it and it took two sets of cranking before it fired and stayed running. On the way home I babied it and the truck lost power and the Rpms dropped and only the glow plug light came on. Got home and ran codes and I got camshaft and crankshaft position sensor codes and I tuned it back to stock, drove it around, and the truck ran fine, but while on a stock tune I am getting a egr valve code.
My 2003 Camry XLE 4-cyl has a serious intermittent problem.
Occasionally, when I insert the key into the ignition switch and turn to ON position, the whole car has no electrical power - including radio, fan, windows, and the whole dashboard just went black ! Starter won't turn. At this point if I just tap slightly on the brake pedal once, electrical power would instantly come back and everything works normal again (car starts, radio, fan working again). This problem would continue to persist randomly. I found that every time when this happens, if I clean the positive battery post/clamp, the problem goes away for 1-2 months then it come back again. I have been repeating this routine for over a year until recently I replaced the battery and the new positive clamp.
The problem has not come back until now (about 9 months since battery change). This time, the problem became a real safety issue. It happened while driving ! Engine just died, everything blackout inside the car. I had to put it in neutral and let it cruise, tapped on the brake pedal slightly to get electrical power back, then started the car and go again.
I was headed down the highway in my 2007 Santa Fe last night. All of the sudden, I lost engine power. I pushed the gas peddle and nothing. We coasted down to a stop on the side of the road. I attempted to restart, all it did was turn over. I noticed the OIL light was on, so I got out and double checked my oil level. Right up to the full mark. Probably about a year ago, I had a check - engine light. I have a code that indicates that my gas level sender has failed, so my gas gauge does not work. I am sure you are saying.....he just ran out of gas. Well, not the case. I filled up the day before, and figured I had another 100 miles left on this tank.
Over 171000 miles on it and I have no intention of giving it up soon.
I bought a 2002 camry xle a couple of days ago. The oil light was flickering so I had the oil change yesterday. I drove it around for a little while and everything was fine. The oil light only came on if I had to hit the brakes harder than normal.
So today I decided to take a drive outside of town and everything was fine until I was going up a hill. The car lost power and the engine started to knock. I was able to get it off the road and shut it down really fast. Decided to check the oil and it was hard to tell where it was at on the dip stick. With the dipstick pulled out I notice that there was steam/smoke coming from the dip stick tube.
After I let it cooled down and waiting for a tow truck to come to the rescue, I tried to start it. It ran for a few seconds and then died. During that time I had no power when pressing the gas and it sounded like it was knocking. It was hard to tell the type of noise it was making. Not one did the oil light, check engine light come on until it stop running.
06 Camry SE I4
I had to replace my catalytic converter because of the code I was getting. It wasn't difficult to do, but took me a while because I had to transfer the thread rods to the new CAT. Once the new CAT was installed, I went to test her out, but noticed that the car all of a sudden, has no electrical power. Nothing at all. I checked all fuses and nothing is blown. The only electrical I messed with on the car was the O2 sensor.
Car has a brand new battery from yesterday. The only thing I didn't do is install a support bracket on one side, because it was missing a bolt and one thread rod was stuck in the old CAT, i couldn't remove it.
A friend suggested that the missing bracket may be causing a ground issue. Is this true?
I just wanted to share with you all a cautionary tale about belt tensioners and idler pulleys. I am now a firm believer in installing the aforementioned items when you replace your drive belt. 15000 miles ago I replaced the drive belt and didn't heed the warning of some here on the forum.
For the last month or two I have noticed what sounded like road noise which I dismissed because I had just had new tires installed that had a more aggressive tread pattern than my previous tires, I also noted that the ECT had been a bit higher than normal, like running in the high 190's to low 200's on average.
Well while driving today I get the alternator warning light and lose power steering and soon after the brakes got stiff, this was followed by ever increasing ECT which got to 242* before I could get it off the road and shut down. It is too early to tell if the noises and the ECT temp rise were the result of this tensioner going out...
For what its worth the only tools required were a 10MM end wrench and a bit of skin to get the job done.
About some four months ago, was driving home from work and the car lost almost all the power and an alert "emissions garage" came on on the display. I had it looked at the VW dealership in Malta and they told me that the turbo diaphragm got jammed and they managed to get it working agin without changing it. After 4 weeks the same....
Took it this time to my mechanic, who works only on VW's and he immediately blamed the diaphragm again so after checking it he changed the diaphragm with a second hand one and also the emissions control box. After driving it for two months .....the same problem once again....
Passat B6 2007 1.9t ........
The light engine is on - I understand that the O2 sensor on bank one is gone, the car hesitates and I would like to understand what is wrong. Maybe other sensors or perhaps the turbo. The car has 62,000 miles. Will the car recup power by replacing the bad O2 sensor?
View 2 RepliesEvery time I stop fairly quickly my battery light comes on and I loose all power. Lights, power steering, everything goes... Is this a connection problem? Its not the battery since I have to turn my car off and start it again for it to be alright.. What's going on?
View 14 RepliesI have 62,500 on my 08 Santa Fe... never had any engine problems, but today, started the vehicle, drove 1/2 mile in town at 25 mph, turned a corner and the vehicle shuttered and lost driving power. At the same time, the check engine light came on and flashed continuously. I drove 1/2 block (around two corners in town) with the on/off studder and loss of power. I pumped the accelerator just to keep it from killing. As I stopped at the next corner and idled the vehicle regained power. I pulled over and called the dealership service department and they recommended I drive it home (blocks away) and turn the engine off, then try to restart it and if it started drive it 30 miles to dealership.
Did that, engine light came on steady and vehicle had full power. Long and short... the code was P0300 Random CYL Miss Fire Fault (random cylinder miss fire). After scanning the vehicle, test driving it and inspecting it as they do, they could not find a source of the problem or duplicate it. They cleared the code and promised that if it happened again they would credit me the $90 diagnostic fee I paid today for them to find nothing and apply it to a problem they couldn't find. They were willing to try and warranty it even though it is 2,500 over warranty if it had needed parts. Has this cylinder misfire happened to any of you? I've never had a problem like this really go away, so I'm expecting it will show up again. Also, they want to replace the timing belt (at 60K) as a preventative measure. What do you think? Can I wait till 80K?
I have a 2010 Elantra 4dSD 2.0 DOHC. 61, 522 miles on it.
I have had no issues with the car until about 2 weeks ago. Suddenly the EPS light came on and I lost power steering. Upon pulling over and restarting the car the problem went away. I went about a week, and suddenly it did it again. Restarted car, went away, still does this intermittently.
I took it to the dealer, they found the following codes:
EPS - Electronic Power - C1259 - Steering Angle Sensor Electrical
EPS - Electronic Power - C1290 - Torque Sensor Main Signal Fault
EPS - Electronic Power - C1604ECU(Brake System) Hardware error
EPS - Electronic Power - C2400 - Motor
ABSESC - ABS/ESC - C1202 - Wheel Speed Sensor Front - LH Invalid/No Signal
ABSESC - ABS/ESC - C1208 - Wheel Speed Sensor Front - LH Invalid/No Signal
ABSESC - ABS/ESC - C1211 - Wheel Speed Sensor Front - LH Invalid/No Signal
They reset the codes, and EPS Reflash. Recalibrated EPS. They told me if the problem comes back I would need a new steering column ($1500+). This seems a bit strange to me for an intermittent issue. It would almost seem to me that if multiple sensors are effected that they are receiving bad data from somewhere. Could the ABS sensors be causing this problem with bad data? I've also heard a failing battery could cause this type of issue.
Just to start off im new to the camry family.I have a 2007 camry se. Well the the problem I am having is when i make a sharp turn or hit on the brakes hard my oil light flashes. Didn't know if this is a big problem or something small. the light flashes and goes rite back off.
View 14 RepliesToday on the way to work at a red light I'm stopped light turns green I try and go and no power in fact when I hit the gas my rpms go lower first thing I think is I fried the clutch but it idles fine an when I hit the gas rpms go down and the at wants to bog out. Then after I get it towed home I try and crank it over it doesn't start. My thinking then is fuel. So I go to check the fuses everything is fine when I try and crank the car to start it you can hear the fuel pump kick on and then when I go to turn it over I only have crank so could it be the fuel line is clogged? I thought that if it was an injector it would start and just smoke bad. It's a 1.8t Aeb engine and yes I change my oil every 3 k miles and do all the work myself.
View 7 RepliesMy problem is on wed I was driving my car,when I suddenly lost acceleration power, after pulling over to the side of the road I turned off the car and restarted it. However I still had the same problem with acceleration. After a while of trying to get the car to start I called a tow truck and got it towed to the dealer. When I got there they told me it was likely and issue with with a sensor on the gas pedal and the engine. At the dealership I started the car to show them the problem however the car drove perfectly and no engine light came on.
They told me it was most like what they said over the phone the sensors. However on xmas eve they called me and left a voicemail saying the rear cat had went out and taken out both rear exhaust manifolds and it would coast $3000 to fix. My question is how can all that happen without the checking engine light coming on in the car and the car showing no problems while i was driving it and how did they miss it when I had took the car in two weeks earlier for regular maintenance and to correct a drive belt issue due to it walking after I purchased a new drive belt and pulley.