I've been browsing around and researching the problem where the gauges shut down and the abs among with other lights come on intermittently anywhere from a few seconds to 10-15 minutes because I'm currently having this issue. From what I've found, it is the abs ecu.
View 4 RepliesGot an 07 Camry V6 XLE - the dashboard is intermittent sometimes one gauge works, sometimes all gauges work, and every combination you can think of......
Car seems to run ok - battery has good voltage Alternator seems to work - discontented and clean the battery - checked all fuses....
We have a 2004 Honda civic and we are having a bit of issue. I am not sure what is wrong but my dad thinks it may be the alternator. I would drive down the road and the dash lights and the gauges would shut off and five minutes later the car would act like its out of gas and sputtering down the road. took it to pepboys and they replaced the positive terminal and two belts. found out the wrong battery was installed at walmart long story short...we got a new battery and drove about 200 miles and it did the same thing....the hood prop was resting on the positive terminal and was arcing my hood. could it be the alternator or more of an electrical problem due to the arcing?
View 2 RepliesI recently bought a 2007 F-550 bucket truck with a 6.0 Diesel. Noticed the trucks gauge cluster and radio go on and off..
And on top of that the entire truck died on me yesterday suddenly while driving and there was no power (no dome no lights no ignition not even a click completely dead)..
When that happened I was searching for a large battery cable shorted or pinched under the omnivan body and didn't find anything, Removed batteries, charged with in minutes, re installed and everything came back on..
After driving the vehicle on the highway (30+ minutes at 65+ mph), exiting highway on an exit ramp and coming to a stop (at stop sign or traffic light), the engine will sometimes stall and shut off. Immediately thereafter, vehicle can be restarted and driven. There are no other symptoms, abnormal sounds, vibrations, etc.
I thought problem might be caused by vapor lock. However, Hyundai dealer service center checked fuel pump, fuel lines and vacuum hoses, etc. but can not duplicate, identify or repair problem.
I bought an '02 LE, 4 cyl w/123k miles and found electric issues. Are they somehow related and indicate a bigger issue? No lights by shifter (PRINDL). Auto shut-off for overhead light works intermittently. Driver door lock button works intermittently – at times when you pull to lock door it’s ok. At times it slides back and forth doing nothing, and can’t be locked manually w/ key or w/ remote. Driver and passenger windows kind of jump at start of open and end of close.
View 2 RepliesI have 2004 Toyota Camry V4 Automatic , I recently installed a Two way Compustar Remote Starter a month ago. While i was driving my vehicle on the highway (110 kmph) my car engine shut off completely with no lights. I parked my car on the shoulder and again start my car normally with the key and was able to start it normally. There was no engine check lights or any kind of warning.
View 1 RepliesI have a 2007 Prius with 145,000 miles.
We drove for an hour and a half. No problems on the way there. When we left there, there were no dashboard lights. The screen worked fine. So did the headlights and turn signals. But, no speedo or other dashboard lights. I wasn't worried. I figured we blew a fuse so I am going to check in a few minutes.
But when we got home, I couldn't turn the car off. I pressed the On/Off button many times and nothing. I tried putting the key fob in the socket, and hit the button and it shut off.
I have a problem with my 2014 camry. Yesterday out of nowhere, my dome lights wouldnt shut off.. I checked all the doors, made sure they are all shut.. but no luck.
View 5 RepliesI have read a few other posts in regards to this issue. My parking lights do not turn off when the car is shut off and lights are either manually turned off or if the auto function is used. I understand that it is the drivers side fuse box that has a relay built into it that controls the on/off function of the parking lights. I do not see anywhere that I can buy the fuse box. The local dealer wants me to pay for diagnostics before going any further.
View 1 Replies1999 Chevy Blazer, 4.3L V6, 173,447 miles
Working on his 1999 Blazer that he just bought, it has an electrical problem.....the gauges are inop, and the engine wont shut down and the 4X4 wont engage unless the headlight switch is turned on and in some instances the high beams must be on. We have replaced the high beam multi switch, the headlight switch and the ignition module. We suspect that it might be a bad ground or the interior light module.
We just replaced the engine the other day but the problem existed prior to the motor swap.
We're on our third mechanic with no solution to our problem. My 2007 Chevy Equinox (93,000 miles) has performed flawlessly since I bought it new. Over the last 2 years, the brake light has come on a couple of times. Each time the brakes were reviewed by different mechanics who found nothing wrong other than the brake fluid being 1/4 cup low. Two bottle or less of 3 dot fluid were used to top of the brake fluid over 2 years. Two weeks ago we purchased 2 new tires and a REAR brake job from SHOP ONE, a tire/brake dealer.
The brake job was only because the car was nearing 100,000 miles and it seemed like a good idea. Immediately after the job, the brakes were extremely tight, barely giving to foot pressure. At freeway speeds one tire wobbled terribly, which SHOP ONE explained as the tire counterweight having fallen. SHOP ONE replaced the counterweight and pronounced the car fixed. Within 2 days, while on the freeway, the car started throbbing again, the brake stiffness was worse and the acceleration began to fail.
We towed the car to SHOP TWO, a very capable mechanic we've known for awhile. Computer codes show no problem with transmission or ABS or anything else. He said the problem was likely the master cylinder and booster, and took the following actions: Replaced FRONT brakes, master cylinder (OEM), booster (OEM), and rotors. The removed booster had more than a quart of liquid in it. He drove the car back and forth to his home to check performance with no problems.
When I drove the car back to my office the next day, the brakes seized up again, and I had to floor the accelerator to keep the car from dying. The car was towed back to SHOP TWO. The mechanic was able to replicate the problem but can't figure out what's causing it. There are and have been no signs of leaks. After seizing up. the car can be driven after 10 minutes of cool down.
The car is now at SHOP THREE, the dealer. Their computer diagnosis shows nothing wrong, but they recommend replacing the new master cylinder and booster with ANOTHER NEW master cylinder and rotor....
I have a 2003 Camry. Recently, the dash board signal has started to turn on i.e. Battery,abs,brake, etc. when I accelerate. Around 1000 rams the light come on,then will turn off below the 1000 rpms. Now, at 2000 rpms the heater fan will increase speed to maximum.
I had the battery tested and it checked out ok. Could this be the alternator?
The instrument panel lights (dash lights for the gauges, temperature control settings, etc) have been intermittently going out on 2011 Santa Fe V6 Ltd, instead of lighting up when the headlights are on. We can see still the mileage display, the navigation, the clock and the climate control screens, however. Those light just fine, its just the instrument panel that is the problem.
Tonight, we noticed that the tail lights were also out. We think they have been intermittently going with the dash lights at the same time. The brake lights are working fine though.
The problem with the instrumental panel lights started a few weeks ago (we bought the SUV brand new in Jan 2011). When we took the vehicle to have the problem fixed, everything was working fine and they could not replicate the problem or figure out what was causing it. This evening the lights went out again. After we parked the SUV and had dinner, I went back out to it and the lights were working again.
What is causing the problem and how to fix it? Seems like this should be an issue covered by the warranty, but with the problem being intermittent, we can't be sure it will show up when we take the SUV in to the dealer.
I have a 2.5L 2010 camry se ... Car was running perfectly fine last night. The next morning all the lights were on but when i turned the key to start it up, i just heard a click and all the lights shut off. Checked the battery with voltmeter and its reading fully charged but lights on the dash are no longer lighting up. Starter problem?
View 3 RepliesThis is on a 2001 golf, 5 speed, ALH.
Just went for a drive the other day and the ABS light started to flicker on, and then it was accompanied by 3 loud beeps, which I understand is the ABS warning.
Then the gauges all died like I turned the car off, but the engine was still running. No limp mode, no stumbling, nothing.
The needles then bounce back to where they should be, and various lights on the dash flicker, oil pressure, battery, etc. Not any pattern to them, they all just kind of blink on and off randomly. Then it will stop and run fine for 20-30 minutes (longest I have driven it like this)
Sometimes when I put the key in the on position before starting it, the gauges will do the same thing, without the beeping, and it is like I am cylcing the key on and off several times, needles on the fuel and temp gauge bounce between zero and their actual reading (other gauges don't move because I'm at zero rpm and zero mph)
I have replaced fuses 11 and 15, checked battery voltage with the car off, idling and at 2000 rpm, 12.3 volts with the car off, 14.3 with it idling and at 2000 rpm
The cheap code reader at the parts store gave me a P1650 code, which is intermittent communication error on canbus (paraphrasing) which makes sense for the symptoms, but I know on these cars sometimes a totally different system in the car can interfere elsewhere.
I am going to check/clean grounds, what else should I be looking for?
2000 Dakota, 4.7 V8 ... The 'CHECK GAUGES' light comes on intermittently. As soon as it comes on, the voltmeter gauge drops to zero (it is a brand new battery); the temperature gauge does flip flops; the truck dies right now. Walk home and come back later, and it starts up again. When you get home, you sure don't feel secure in taking it on the road again. The shop checked it and of course there was nothing wrong when they had it Where do I start the troubleshoot? Is it computer or?
View 1 RepliesI have a 03 f250 6.0 had it for 2 years never had a problem. Last week I went out and started it to warm it's up as it is cold out here and it started fine I then noticed some thing hanging down under the dash so I started tucking it up under there and it arced and all gauges shut off and the truck shut off. So I took the panel down and it was the biometric pressure sensor that was hanging and the previous owner had a remote start on there that I never knew about and 2 wires on the sensor were stripped and not taped as well as some others. I checked all fuses and relays all working good tested fuse box and everything good there, replaced bio sensor and still nothing turn the key and try to start it and it does nothing injectors, don't precycle fuel pump doesn't run and starter doesn't kick in. I jumped starter off the wire on fender and it turns over but still doesn't start. Also I think it's the ecu but don't want to buy another one if I'm not sure if that's the problem.
View 7 RepliesI have an 2005 F350 4x4, 6.0 with 294000 miles. My gauges recently started to shut down on there own and then recover. at any speed with no effect on the engine. When I park and shut the system down, they all come back on again at start-up. However, they shut down again and then operate at will as I drive. What's causing this?
View 1 RepliesDad's 2000 F150 5.4 ltr will start intermittently, when it does fire it runs fine, but right after start up all the dash gauges "spike" to the max levels for a sec and then go back down to normal....
Put the Cen-Tec 98614 code reader on and it continues to say "Link error" and I can't communicate to the interface. P.S., I confirmed the Code reader is good by pulling a 420 O2 sensor code from my Toyota in just a few seconds....
I can hear the fuel pump kick in so I doubt that is the culprit. Because of the gauge spike at start up (every time) this problem screams grounding problem, but I don't know where to start. Could it be a faulty relay?
03 f 250 super duty, my battery light came on and when I accelerate my dash gauges shut down and radio turns off, if I idle or stay under twenty MPH, everything works fine. Battery and alternator test good, lights never dim, any thoughts
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