Experienced problem with the Automatic locks on the doors? The doors on my camry lock as soon as I move the shifter out of park. The owners manual indicates that I can get the doors to lock automatically at 20 km/hr. I have tried following the instructions in the manual to make this happen but without any success.
View 14 RepliesMy cousin has a 2007 Ford Taurus with the pushrod 3.0L. It has the console shifter and it is hard to move the shift lever into Park from Reverse. The shifer moves out of park and to every other gear with normal effort. The gear indicator correctly displays the shifter position. It drives/shifts perfectly fine. The only problem is that it is hard to move the shifter from Reverse into Park. It feels like there is a rubbery, or somewhat mushy threshold/resistance that needs to be overcome with a moderate amount of effort to get the shifter into park. Once the shifter is in Park it feels normal meaning you don't have to hold or force the shifter to stay in park.
It is frustrating because it seems most other people have a problem with the shfiter being hard to move from Park to Reverse or Neutral, but she is having the opposite issue. Will it hurt the car to keep shoving the shifter into park when necessary without getting it fixed?
So my friends 2002 camry has a problem where she shifts the shifter into drive, but the gear position indicator in the cluster still shows her in park, and the car will still be in park with parking pawl engaged. is this a sensor that went out, or a deeper transmission problem to be dealt with?
View 1 Replies2000 VR6 automatic. Yesterday my car was stuck in park couldn't move the shifter . Figured it was the brake sensor switch when the brake is engaged food pedal lights do not go out, I replaced it this morning but still won't work I've been driving it around in limp mode?
View 4 RepliesThis morning as I get in to drive my kid to school (2005 2.7 2 wd auto) as I go to put it in reverse I noticeably have to pull it with some force. I have never had to "force it" before, it had always switched gears with ease. This time it felt very stiff but had no issues going into gear. After I dropped my son off at school I went through the gears up and down and it felt very stiff (at this point i have no issues with starting it or P).
At lunch I go out to get something to eat and when I go to start it up it won't start. I try and try and nothing. All the lights came on, it's not a battery issue at all (brand new). But after 10 tries it starts, so I'm pretty happy. Then I go to put it in gear (reverse) I can not press in the button on the side of the gear shift. It will not go in. I press with all my might and it wont budge. But again, after about 10 good tries at it goes in and I can then select my gear but still feels very stiff.
After stopping again I didn't shut off the engine and dicked around with the shifter basically figured out that my car is not recognizing Park. On the instrument panel each gear lights up but not P. It gets very stiff when trying to put it in P but it doesn't actually go into P. If I put it in P (or really the further up it will go) and shut off the car, it won't start again. I can start it up in N and only N.
I have a 09' 4cyl automatic engine with 54k.
About 30min ago when when I parked the shifter would not move past neutral into reverse and go into park. I can go from D into neutral or the next slot over for manual shifting. Naturally this causes a problem as you can't take the key out of the ignition if its not in park.
I took a screw driver and popped open the cap for the shift release button and used that to move it into park. Turned car off, back on, etc etc seemed fine. So when I tried moving it into reverse and it wouldn't budge. It instead would make a electronic click or snap coming form the steering column but more back toward the engine. Like more into the dash area but back in it. It would make this noise every time I attempted to move it but it wasn't a continuous sound. Just once with each jerk to the side to move it out of park.
So the car works fine except for this. I used it with the screw driver/shift release to unlock it and it drives fine. Goes into reverse and back in park but if I move it into neutral or drive it will not go back into reverse or park.
So lately this has been getting worst. You have to step on the brake before you can shift out of park. Well lately I have to step on the brake a few times before the safety will let you get into gear.
View 7 RepliesWhile traveling I made a fuel stop. Restarted engine fine, stepped on brake, but could not move the shifter out of Park. Towed to Ford dealer, after extensive trouble shooting replaced shifter cable and transmission position sensor. A week later same problem but glad I learned about the interlock override lever on the steering column so can continue to drive. It locks up several time a day. Here's what I know and observe.
. brake light switch appears to be normal
. engine starts normally
. brake lights operate normally
. fuse on interlock function is ok
. when the lockup happens the shift indicator is missing the box over the P
. this may not relate but backup/reverse lights operate very weird - in reverse they only light when the engine in rev'd and go out when the gas pedal is released
There appears to be a gremlin in this Escape that eludes Ford and me. I read some reference to a computer control involved in the interlock function. I'm at a loss.
I drive a 2008 Chevrolet Impala. The car has had some electrical problems going back about a year and a few months that I have neglected to fix. The first problem was with the shifter not being able to move out of park without hitting the button inside the center console to do a shift lock override, which started last August.
The second problem was with the ignition not being able to release the key without hitting a switch inside the ignition, which started back in the Spring. I have just been rolling along promising to eventually address those, but yesterday the car radio stopped functioning. Then this morning the car would not start.
The electrical system comes on just fine (save the radio), but when I go to start it the car just clicks over. I did not leave any lights or switches on, so I am assuming it must be some sort of problem with the electrical system.
Here is what I have:
2009 Santa Fe 3.3L AWD
70k KMs / 43k Miles
Temp has been very cold, -20C / -4 F
Car starts up without any problems. Try to put car in Reverse and the shifter is very hard to move, if it moves at all. When I am able to get it into Reverse, I then try to put it in Drive and it does not "engage" the "D" and the car behaves like its in Neutral. Moving the shifter back to Park, Neutral, Drive is very difficult and sometimes it will not go into Park. The dash lights do not illuminate the selected P, R, N, D.
However, once the car is warmed up (no longer on C on the temperature gauge) I can with a little effort move the shifter freely (but more effort than it should take) and the car behaves normally. Gear shifts are smooth and in general it is operating normally.
The dash lights do illuminate the selected P, R, N, D. I've checked the Trans fluid level and it appears to be normal and was planning to change it this w-e but I'm no longer sure it will work. Even if it has never been changed.
Also note that I have recently changed a wheel/hub bearing due to a noise that sounds a lot like loud tires on a highway. The bearing change did not eliminate the noise and I assumed that I've changed the wrong one. The noise does not appear to be coming from the Trans, but I cant be 100% sure. The noise is speed related and occurs only after about 20KM/h 16MPH. Unsure if they are related..
Got in to go to work this am, and the gear shifter was difficult to move. What to check?
I drove 70 miles to work and didn't seem like any issues with the transmission shifting.
Got in to go to lunch and it seems even more difficult to move...
Shifting back and forth in the selector seems to loosen things up a little.
A friend move the selector while I looked at the linkage and the bracket that support the cable is flexing while shifting between gears....More likely a transmission issue or something with the linkage?
When we parked our Camry tonight and went to lock the doors with the fob we got the long continuous beep like a door was open but they were all closed. The door ajar light was on. I got in and turned on the ignition and the light went out. Interior lights went out. I then turned the car off took out the key out and the dash door light went back on, the overhead lights went on also. The doors open with the fob after locking with the internal lock. The key light follows these other two. So three lights the dash overhead and key are affected. There is no 15 sec time out but the 20 minute time out seems intact.
With the car running the lights do the right thing. The dash indoor indicator goes off the overhead and key dim to off. I can open a door the door ajar light comes on with the overhead lights. Is there a relay I should be looking to identify?
2012 Santa Fe - is there anyway to lock the doors remotely when the key is in the ignition & car running?
View 2 RepliesI have a 2002 Camry with (440K Kms) and automatic transmission. I am the second owner and had this car since 130K Kms so I have been driving it for a while. The car was in great condition but recently, the transmission started to give some trouble where it's gear changes were not smooth. Also, when I would come to a complete stop, trany would go into neutral even though I have not touched the gear shifter and it is still in drive.
I had my mechanic drain and fill transmission fluid since it was a bit dirty. A few days later, the car would park with gear box in "P" but no matter which gear I would put the gear shifter into, it would remain in neutral and won't pick up into any gear at all. So, I parked the car on the driveway. Couple of days later I wanted to try to see what the issue was and now, no matter what gear I put the gear shifter into, it stays into park.
I would like to know if there is a way to activate the automatic door locking when leaving the car, my car is oiut of warranty and i remember that i had that option on my car, but for some reason, i doesn't now. I've tried leaving the fob far from the car, but the doors does not locking automatically for any reason.
View 5 RepliesI have a 2007 Hyundai Santa Fe and over the last 3 weeks I have been having a lot of trouble with my door locks. One thing is my automatic lock that happens when you hit 14mph, every time I hit 14mph my doors sound like they are locking 4 times, and every time I stop and take off again they sound like they are locking 4 more times. It is driving me crazy. Another issue I am having is my back passenger side door doesn't always unlock with the FOB or the button on the driver door, it has to manually be unlocked.
View 12 RepliesI have been having problems on and off with my central locking for a while now with my 05' Toyota Camry Altise. 95% of the time it works perfectly, however occasionally the central locking will refuse to lock the doors, chirping at me twice as if a door is open. I know that all of the door switches are working fine so this isn't the cause of the problem.
I believe it may have something to do with the fact that I had to replace my driver side door a while ago, and that now the actuator may not be working properly or misaligned and jamming. What should I be looking for to make sure this doesn't occur? I thought it all went back in perfectly. Interestingly I can get around the problem by turning the ignition on and off and trying again.
2010 ES350, 84,000 miles. I have seen many threads on door locking/unlocking issues but none quite like mine that I've been able to locate. The key fob stopped locking the doors a few weeks ago, neither will the lock button on the drivers door inside the car. No sounds, beeps, lights or mechanical attempts to lock the doors. There are no indicator lights or messages suggesting an issue.
I can go around and manually lock all the doors, hit the lock on the key fob, and the car will beep and light up as if the locks worked fine. I also manually locked each door separately and in all combinations, the only combination which will enable the beep as if the door locks work with the fob is if they are all locked. The fob will unlock the doors however, unlocking has not been an issue.
My first attempt to correct was to disconnect the battery for a few minutes, reconnect and they worked fine for a week or so. The next time, with all the same symptoms, disconnecting the battery did nothing, the fob, however did start working a day or two later. The third time it happened we took the car directly to the dealership who has had it for 5 days and have been unable to identify an issue (the fob started to work on day 3).
My wife said that her keys stopped locking/unlocking doors. I checked the keys and replaced the battery just to be sure. No change. Older keys also couldn't unlock/lock the car.
Both keys can start the car and has blinking red LED flushing when any buttons pushed. Is there a "Remote" button somewhere in a car to allow remote operation?
2007 RX400h 110k mi.
I have a Santa Fe Style CRDI Auto from 2011 which is not covered by Warranty and has only done 6000 miles.
The problem is that the Gear Stick Won't Move from the 'Park' position (with the engine on and brake fully pressed down).
There have been issues over the last couple of weeks where it was difficult to move the gear stick at times but it was fine after waiting a few seconds. Now it seems completely stuck.
I have a 2012 santa fe , when I put the car in park all doors unlock , is there a way to change this ?
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