Camry :: 2007 - Car Takes Up To 4 Attempts To Start Normally
Mar 17, 2013
My wife's 2007 4-cylinder Camry has 174,000 miles and has been a great car. Recently however the car has become harder to start. The engine cranks fine but it either starts right up or it will just crank. I've learned that if it doesn't start normally, I stop cranking and try to start again. Sometimes it takes up to 4 attempts then it starts normally. It seems like it either gets the fuel and starts correctly or it's not getting fuel and cannot start.
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My LS460 L (2008) is having startup problems. I press the startup button but doesn't always start and sometimes it takes three attempts to get started. I took it to the dealer in Saudi (ALJ) and they changed the battery and did a full check but couldn't figure the problem. The problem is intermittent.
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I have a 1997 Celica ST 1.8 liter. Over the past month, it has developed an issue with starting up. It takes several attempts to start up- sometimes it works and sometimes it doesn't. Once its started up, it runs fine. It usually has no problems starting back up as long as I don't wait any longer than 8-12 hours. Once I get passed that mark, it gives me trouble all over again. Some days it won't start at all, regardless of how many times I try or how long I try for. Now going on day 3 of it not starting at all, turns over and sounds like it's trying, but just won't do it.
The second I stop or turn the key off, it makes a noise like it was going to try to start; however, never actually does. It's a very weird thing. I've talked to a ton of people and a few thought it had to be the crankshaft position sensor. But, I just don't think that's spot on. I've done quite a bit of research and personally think it's the cold start injector or something along those lines.
Another thing I just remembered.. I read that cold start injectors are usually on older cars only, not sure if that's true or not because I read a problem on a 2003 that was a cold start injector, which could have just been a site with bad info. But having a separate injector for "cold start" threw me off in the first place. And what I see on my car that I'm thinking is it, is solely based off a few diagrams and pictures I have seen.
Just tried to hand choke it, way closer to starting than it has been the last 3 days. Tried to give it a little gas, but still didn't start. Thought I had it a few times there. Also, noticed some oil sitting on below the engine, but on part of my car not the ground. To the left if I was standing looking under the hood. Between the bumper and the engine, closer to the engine.
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I have a 2006 V6 Sonata that takes its time to get started. It will crank great, but after a few seconds of trying and no starting, I turn the key to the off position and try it again. Most of the time the car will start on the second attempt, but sometimes it requires a third attempt. Here are the facts as I have observed them:
-I cannot hear the fuel pump engage until a split second before the car actually starts.
-There are no RPMs until the fuel pump engages and the car starts.
-The engine runs really rough for a second while the car initially starts and runs.
-When the car is running, it's really smooth. Like, brand new car smooth.
-This issue happens no matter the time of the day or the temperature of the engine.
-The fuse for the fuel pump is fine.
-The fuel pump relay is fine. I know this because I swapped the horn relay with the fuel pump relay and nothing changed with the starting issue and the horn still worked great.
-A friend used a jumper in the fuel pump relay to see if the fuel pump would engage and it did.
-Have not used a fuel pressure gauge as we did not have one on hand.
Is there anything else to check besides using the fuel pressure gauge? Have you run into this same issue? If so, what was the cure? I'm averaging about 20 MPG with mostly city driving. Is that normal for the 2006 V6?
Recent work included new spark plugs, a new gasket somewhere because it was weeping oil there (I think it was the part of the engine that you have to remove in order to get to a couple of the plugs), and the idler pulley thingy and it's belt.
The starting issue started before I got this work done. I took it to a repair shop because of the starting issue and they found these other problems. The funny thing is, they claim that the car started perfectly fine for them every time, which is pretty hard to believe. When I picked the car up from the shop, I tried starting it, it didn't start, but the mechanic was right there to see my issue first hand.
My thinking is that the fuel pump is fine because when it does finally start, the engine runs smooth as silk. I love how when I'm going 80 MPH, just a slight amount of pressure on the gas pedal and I'm up to a hundred in no time flat. I love this Hyundai V6. Now if I can just get it starting normally.
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My husband's 2000 Ford Expedition has 94K miles and has been very well maintained. For the past few months, it's been having intermittent ignition problems. It'll start up fine for a few days, and then suddenly will need several-to-many attempts in order to start. Engine cranks every time, but won't catch. A few times it has taken over 10 min to get it started, and on occasion we've had to take our other vehicle instead. My son and I spent 15 creepy minutes in a dark parking lot the other night trying to get the truck to start.
It's in the Ford repair shop for the third time in a month now (last time was for 4 days), and the shop has been unable to replicate the problem enough to diagnose it. (The two times when it wouldn't start for them was when they DIDN'T have it hooked up to fuel-system test equipment.) I'm getting the sense they just want us to go away quietly and buy a new vehicle, but this one is the type we like...paid for! The problem occurs at various times of day...in various types of weather...when truck is hot, cold, or in between...gas tank at different levels...we can't find a common denominator, and all other diagnostics come back fine. The only slightly creepy suggestion the shop had was that maybe someone poured sugar in the gas tank..
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Very occasionally my 4.6 doesn't seem to be getting fuel when I crank it. On those occasions the starter cranks the engine fine, but it takes two or three attempts to actually start. 64K on the truck, and the fuel filter was changed about 10K ago, throttle body cleaned at the same time. Does this sound like a FDCM issue?
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My car had some minor front end damage repaired by a body shop. Since I got it back the a/c takes longer to start blowing cold air. If I drive it daily the a/c starts up normally. But if the car sits for a few days, it may take anywhere from 3-5 minutes before it blows cold. I've taken it back to the body shop who has in turn taken it to a dealer and nothing was found.
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I have a friend who owns a 1.8T Passat, and she is having difficulty starting her car. From what i know, her car takes a VERY LONG time, and many attempts before it turns over and finally starts. Currently it take many more tries to get it started. Her battery seems fine, as the car turns over strong, and all electrics work. Also, after her car starts, she has been noticing that it is underpowered, and vibrates hard. It has been over a year since her spark plugs were changed. Correct me if im wrong, but having a turbo powered engine, do the spark plugs wear out faster then naturally aspirated engines. Am i right to assume that the spark plug is the cause for her car not starting, and vibrating hard after it starts.
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So it has been quite cold around here the past couple of weeks. I was driving my Tig the other day to grab some food. My buddy wanted to see how far my sunroof opens. It opened no problem. But then when I tried to close the sunroof, it got just about closed and then reversed to open all the way. It took me about 6 times of opening all the way and then trying to close until it finally closed. My thought is maybe a piece of ice got stuck and made the system think something was on the track?
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My 1988 Volvo 240 DL often has trouble starting in the rain (I've usually managed to get it going, but it often takes several attempts). I have been told by a friend that he had the same problem with his '86 and replaced the distributor cap, solving the issue. My mechanic told me that he would need to replace the cap and wires. He said that replacing the cap alone won't solve the problem, and would just lead the cap to wear out faster. He told me this without looking at the car. Just want to know if he's right--do I need to replace the cap and wires? Is it possible that changing the cap alone will solve the problem? Could I change the cap and see if there's still a problem, or is it better to just do it all at once?
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Once my car is warm and say I go to the store to grab some stuff and go and start it it'll start but it'll turn off the RPMs hit 1.5k then the car drops. Like it chokes. But then I go to start it again and it starts up with no problem. This happens 50% of the time after the car is warm and I go and start it. What could it be?
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I own a 2007 Camry LE. It's 4 cylinder and has 80k miles. Since I can remember, the A/C takes a really long time to start blowing cold air.
I'm in Miami, where ambient temp is about 90 F every day and it takes about 2-3 minutes to blow cold air. I can tell because this usually happens when I get around a certain street (SW 40th Street), so the problem is self-replicating regularly.
My father is a house A/C mechanic and he filled it with refrigerant but this has not fixed the problem. If the car has been driven and been parked under shade, the A/C blows cold air since the start. After being driven for 2-3 minutes, it blows cold air like a monster, I usually have to run it on 70 % cold and low fan - that's how well it performs.
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I have a 2002 Camry LE V6 (made in Japan) with 195,000 KM on it and noticed that the car would crank for several seconds before it catches and starts. I have replaced the air filter, changed the spark plugs at 190K, use premium fuel and this is still happening. I have not replaced the spark plug wires as I was told at the time that it was not necessary. I notice that this seems to happen when my car is in the garage at temps above 0 degrees Celsius. When my vehicle is parked outside in a cold winter day, it seems to start quicker.
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I have a peculiar problem with my 2010 Santa-Fe 3.5L
Every now and again, and more often recently, when I try to start the car with the ignition switch, it cranks well, but doesn't, or takes a while to start. If, after trying to start it with no success, I give it a few seconds, I usually get it going, but not always instantly like it used to.
However, If I try to start it with the remote, it starts instantly, every time. What could be the cause?
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There was one message that I found like my problem, but a little different. When I turn the key it won't start, just sounds like it is going to start. I turn the key the second time it will usually start. sometimes it takes 3 times.
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2002, 90,000 miles.
Symptoms: 2-4 attempts in order to successfully start. Have to hold in 2-4 seconds for success. Still starts consistently though. CEL lit last week for two days, but gone now. Car is driven only for commuting, 10 minutes city driving, 15 minutes highway, 10 minutes stop and go, each way. Gets 40-45mpg over the course of a tank.
History: Aux battery replaced 2011 at dealer after a bad jumpstart. It may have fried the inverter. Not sure. I assume it was the Panasonic that was installed, but the battery says neither Panasonic nor Toyota anywhere on it. Pic below:
Hm. Upside down. I also attached it. Anyway...
Last year, had occasional Red Triangles on MFD and LED panel. Took it to the local Prius specialists, they said the indicators were definite HV battery cell failures, but $750 just to remove, discharge, recharge, discharge the HV cells to figure out exactly which cells should be replaced, which I think they said cost $200 each to replace. I decided it was not worth it on a car still functional and getting 40-45mpg.
Research on here and elsewhere indicates that the AUX battery is not used for starting so the starting doesn't sound like an AUX battery issue. Is it likely an HV battery issue? Time to go back to the local Prius specialists and have the test done? Are there any other ways to find out what's up?
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I'm having an issue ( happened about 6 times now) where engine is taking 5 to 10 attempts to start after, and only after, I put fuel in! Engine turns over but 3 seconds later dies. I have had the starter, battery and alternator checked and they are all fine. , it only happens after I fuel and I have tried a bunch of different gas stations so I know its not bad fuel. In between fuel ups engine runs fine and never a starting issue.
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My 2006 Azara has had a no start problem since about a year after we bough it new. The condition is intermittent and is not dependent on outside temperature, humidity or other conditions, It happens when the engine is cold or hot. Sometimes the problem goes away for a week or so then it comes back. It happens with either key.
The engine cranks over but does not start. Usually resolve it by sitting for 10 - 15 seconds then trying again. Sometimes have to do this two or three times before it fires. All other electrical items work ok and the battery has no problem powering accessories. I've had it into the dealer however because it is difficult to replicate, they have a hard time repairing the problem. The first time they neutralized the immobilizer and re-programmed it. The second time, I got a check engine light and they replaced the immobilizer. But the problem continues.
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Been having a problem starting the car (2010 T Spirit - 25k mileage RSH) in the mornings for about 3 weeks. When you power on, the dashboard lights up most options and the power light goes amber with no engine start.
This can take 5 or 6 attempts before getting the engine to start and then half the dashboard like the clock etc will not light up for that journey. Subsequent journeys that day are ok but the issue returns for the first start every day.
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My car Mk4 Gti has not been starting recently, showing all the symptoms of a dead battery. When I try to start it clicks or sometimes if there's more juice the engine attempts to turn over once or twice.
The weird thing is this started happening in conjunction with my monsoon head unit randomly dying. The radio was dead for a while and my battery would randomly die. Then I fixed the radio by reseating the fuse on the back and the problem went away.
Just today I started my car and everything was fine sitting in my driveway. Then I noticed that the battery light was on, and then my head unit died. I turned my car off to try and fix the radio issue and then it wouldn't start back up. Not sure what the issue is.....
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I bought a 2002 abt a year ago, and every 1000 miles I get the red triangle and the gas engine refuses to start. Initially it starts, then shuts down after a few seconds. Weird thing is, after the 5th or 6th attempt, the car starts normally and off I go. When I turn the key to "on" the check light goes on. This has never happened while I drive, only after the car has been driven and parked.
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