Camry :: 2007 - ABS / Brake Light On - Odometer / Temp Gauge Fluctuate?
Apr 21, 2015
All those 4 problems, abs light on, brake light on, odometer gauge fluctuate, temp gauge fluctuate and air conditioner stop working, all happen simultaneously. They can also recover and work altogether again for a bit a time, and then all car runs good and after some time it happens again. Quite inconsistent.
Its toyota camry 2007,v4 , 95K miles on it.
Here is how it looks, another person just recorded here : [URL]...
Went to Toyota, they diagnosed the following codes:
c121
c2177
c0205
c0215
U0073
Can it be done more economical or better way to do it. Also while the ABS unit is at fault and car is running perfectly fine with the brakes working as expected, is there any issue having the car to be used in the meantime it will be fixed.
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My Mom has a 07 Camry with only 40k miles. Today she's coming from the store & said the Brake, ABS lights came on and Speed, RPM & Temp gauge stop working?
The car still drove fine but it freaked her out! After 1/2hr everything worked again?
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I have a 2007 Camry with the 4 cylinder engine and about 90,000 miles. I just changed the oil and took it for a test drive only to notice about 1/4 mile down the road it was running very hot. My a/c began to get warmer and my temperature gauge was at the "H". I pulled over and it immediately cooled back to normal operating temperature (in the middle of the gauge). The car was left running this entire time and I began my way back to my destination. It never ran that hot again but when I would slow down to an idle I noticed at times it would go up in temperature, but not as hot as before, and go back to normal temperatures. Sometimes during a drive it would fluctuate a little bit, but nothing as much as it would on the very start of running this car cold.
So I opened my hood and looked at the reservoir and noticed I do not see any fluid in there. I guess I should add that I have never flushed or changed the antifreeze b/c I did not know I would need to change it until recently at the 5 year mark. I also notice a little but a pink crystals (about the size of a pencil head) on a bolt at the top left of the engine, right under were the oil cap is. But that is all I noticed. No leak in my driveway or other areas of the engine. I must note that I did the oil change myself and it was nice and black, so from my experience it does not appear to be a head gasket, b/c I would assume it would be milky in color if that was the case.
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2008 hyundai santa fe. 106,000
Bought the car six months ago.Found out 2 weeks later we couldn't put gas in it. Dealership refused to fix it because we bought as is. So we managed to find one gas station in a 20 Mile radius that we could put gas in it.It takes around 10 minutes to put half a tank in. Shortly after that the gas gauge started to fluctuate from full to empty. And the check engine finally came on. Had the the check engine light checked.Fuel level sensor A was faulty. Took it to a local Goodyear in stead of the dealer ship. The sensors were 119.00 a piece and the labor was 145.00 to replace both. Had both replaced .Fuel gauge is working correctly now. But still having issue putting gas in car.
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What would make the oil pressure gauge fluctuate and go to zero? I already replaced the oil sending unit, and changed the oil and filter, whats left? maybe a bad gauge?
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After i got home from work I noticed a smell from the front so i popped the hood, oil level was a little above max, but it was still hot so thats fine. I did notice the res was low, but I was more like an oil smell. I've been told, and can kinda see the valve cover gasket needs to be replaced, but it have never made this smell before. The car is at 173k miles so I try to keep up on everything.
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My car doesn't blow hot air. the temperature gauge goes up to half way like it normally operates at but the air never get more than luke warm. I changed the thermostat last year with no better results and I just had the timing belt and water pump replaced in July. It been an average of 8 degrees here for the last week.
Its a 98 camry, 4 cyl, Automatic...
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I have a 2002 Toyota Celica GT and I seem to be getting horrible gas mileage. I have replaced the Sending Unit. Also, I have attached a collage of photos that I was able to capture on my cell phone of what its doing to understand what could be the problem/issue.
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2006 camry temp gauge goes past H while car is running at any time. Fan still works anti freeze in radiator anti freeze in reservoir. When take the key out the ignition. Temp gauge drops to the middle(normal position) 15-20 later then gauge drops to C (normal position when key is out ignition). Car runs fine no steam no leaks no funny noises. Car has 68k / 4cycl.
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So I noticed a few days ago when driving the turbo around that the temperature gauge fluctuates... ALOT. it will warm up to full operating temp, then when driving will go way down, almost to the cold line again and SLOWLY rise up, and when I mean slowly, I mean it takes about an hour or so to get there.
Well today, I changed the oil, there were about 2 qts in there but the car was about 2k overdue. MY BAD! So upon driving around seattle/bellevue/redmond today, noticed the gauge doing the same thing, and I am stumped, IDK why it would be doing this, the car doesn't overheat or anything.
Also, the girlfriend said that when she was driving the car, in the warmer weather, even while moving the temp gauge read almost hot, and the car was telling her to shut it off etc... I seriously am at a lose here.
The other night we noticed the TAIL light was out, but the brake light still worked. Last night we were out with some friends, they said that the TAIL AND BRAKE lights were not working, but ONLY on the drivers side, the passenger side worked as it should, we also noticed that when we hit the brakes, the front drivers corner light comes on and stays on until we take our foot off the brake.
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2.5 months ago I had a coolant flush in my 2007 explorer Eddie Bauer. The last 3 days last week the temp gauge went from the middle where it usually sits, to maxed out in the red. Stays there for about 45 secs and then drops back down.
Is it coincidence that I had a flush and maybe they didn't fill it all the way back up or is it somthing else ?
One other thing- even when it sits in the middle of the gauge I can sometimes hear the engine sucking in air like a vacuum so I guess at certain times its running hot but just doesn't raise the gauge just yet.
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The ambient temp gauge on my '07 Santa Fe stopped working, all I was getting was flashing bars across thee bottom. Someone in a thread said there was a TBS about that. I went to my Hyundai dlr and got a copy of the TSB. It was actually pretty easy to take everything apart. The problem was that there were no wires the color I was looking for, also, there were no wires connected to the terminal as shown in the TSB. I went back to my dealer, and after a little research, found that the TSB did not pertain to my car because it was a late model year production. I was told that to fix the problem on my car, all for the fuse blocks would have to be replaced. Shortly after that, I started getting erroneous readings, eg:126 degrees. Now it is reading correctly, but who knows for how long.
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My radiator gave way on the highway, and by the time I noticed it the temp had maxed out the gauge and all the coolent was gone. So, I only have 90k on my '94 Camry and I'm debating whether to tackle repairs and perhaps a rebuild if necessary. What's the likelihood that there's damage to the rings, bore, crank, valves, etc due to the overheat? How much repair am I potentially looking at and what can I check without a tear-down? I'd like to get it running again since I just invested in new struts, brake calipers and MS and tires (not to mention that it has been pretty-much worry-free until now), but I want to know whether it's even worth my while.
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Car is a 2012 GTI 6MT with APR intake.
Within the last couple of days, my engine temperature gauge has been acting a little strange. The needle will fluctuate depending on if I'm accelerating or at speed. I've actually seen it go down several times before going back up to normal temp. On a couple of days, it will go up to about halfway to normal temp, and just stay there for a lot longer than it usually seems to.
There have also been times when the car is at normal operating temp, I'll go into a store for maybe 15 minutes, and when I come out, it shows the engine temperature is maybe halfway to where it should be. Then it will go back to normal after a few minutes of driving. I would think that if the engine is warm, it should stay there for more than 15 minutes, even if the car isn't on.
We haven't had any abnormally cold days lately, and I'm not getting any CEL, but I was wondering if anything to worry about, or if it's normal.
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I have a 2012 Buick Enclave that the fuel gauge fluctuate. It is not in sync with digital readings. When parking down hill the gauge goes to full. After driving a while the needle will move up a little. Even when on level ground it will fluctuate.
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Is it normal that the temperature gauge reach half the temp scale all the time ? Even though I live in a tropical island were outside temp is mostly above the 85 mark I find it a bit weird for the temp to reach that point.
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The 3rd central brake light is not working. I looked at the manual to find where the fuse is but could not find it.
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I started my car and noticed that something under the hood was very loud. It sounded as if there was a large fan left on high and I was right. The passenger side radiator fan doesn't come on. The drivers side does though and yet there is no overheating! Ive taken short 15 mile trips here and there but the temperature gauge stays right in the middle. If i give this radiator fan motor a good whack with a screw driver, it comes right on. What it could be? Does it need a motor replacement? Could it actually be the relay if when I give it a whack, it comes on?
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So driving to work today I noticed my battery light came on..... Well I kept driving only cause I figured if my belt slipped off it would be to late to save it/if it was my temp gauge would start going into the red..... So as I'm still driving it kept turning off and then back on(the battery light) the whole way of a 25min ride.....
Finally got to work popped the hood and belt was in tact and seemed to have good tension... So I don't think it slipped or came off.... And then checked battery just to double check and everything is connected.... Now as we all know are alternators are right under the intake mani so front end has to come off to test it/replace it.....
Also when coming to red lights on the way to work the idle seemed fine never seemed to fluctuate crazy.... I know when my Audi had a bad alternator when I came to stops it about cut the motor off/did if I didn't keep the throttle revving it up but not sure as I haven't been able to test anything yet.
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Odometer light on my 07 f150 was coming on and off,read the thread here on how to change bulb. Got that done no problem but the odometer is now blank. Read the thread saying it was a common issue and to look for a bad or broken soder. My problem is i can't figure out how to get the circuit board off of the cluster after i pull off all the bulbs and screws. My local ford service dept wants to replace entire cluster at a hefty price.
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I have been battling this for some time. The check engine light comes after a period of time from reset. I have changed the thermostat, temp sensor, coolant flush and added per MFG.
I am down to clutch fan. The temp gauge sits right at 210.
From what I can tell is the check engine light comes on because the engine reaches operating temp to SLOWLY. Im guessing because the clutch fan is spinning to early in the game.
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