Camry :: 2007 4cyl Dead / Just Crank And Not Start
Mar 23, 2014
So I recently went out to start my car one morning and it decided to just crank and not start. A few days prior to that I was on my way into work and it shut off on me 4 times but started back up every time, it was only 5 degrees Fahrenheit that morning and I was under 1/4 tank, so just thinking I got some bad fuel or moisture in there I ignored it and went on about my business until it didn't start that morning. Since then I've searched on here and found a couple people that had similar issues and I tried what they had done to fix theirs, this is everything from trying the second key and on.
There is no power at the fuel pump except for the sending unit portion, and I did check with someone cranking the engine, it just has no power... So I thought, relay...well apparently they don't have a fuel pump relay on this car? It's all controlled by the ECU? I decided to hook up my scanner to see if there were any codes getting thrown, this would show if it was CPS or the like, nope, no codes at all showed up. I'm completely lost at this point, and have resorted to buying a subscription to all data as I used them in the past and had luck, well this time they've got nothing for me that I've found useful. I'm about to send the car off to the first person that's willing to pay a fair price. Glad it's warm enough to get the summer car out!
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07 camry 4cyl high oil consumption doing oil changes every 5k. Car has 61000 miles on it. I had to put 2 quarts of oil just before oil changes, oil level was still below low, so car burns 3 qrt of oil every 5k. What should i do?
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I have 2007 Camry CE, 4 cyl, 102,500 miles. The rubber boots on both front and rear struts can be easily lifted with a screw driver to reveal the shiny shaft. Strut seems be pass the 'fast brake' test (no bounciness). There is oily residue on the strut body. Is that normal? If replacement is needed, should I go with Monroe or other brand. I want the original Camry ride.
Brake pads seem to have 3/16"-1/4" thickness left. All equipment is original.
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My camry won't start I got a new battery and a new starter (they are both good) and it sill wont start.
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I have a 2004 Toyota Camry 4cyl. Vehicle had ran hot. Performed the procedure and sent the head to the machine shop for the works. Replaced the timing chain and the oil pump chain along with the tensioner, rails and sprockets. Performed the timing chain procedure and even questioned the information about the counterclockwise rotation against the figures of clockwise,, but aligned all of the links to the dots on cams, crank, oil pump and crank. Vehicle spins tries to crank but, floods all of the plugs, no codes, good compression , fire and even hand rotated the crank to check all of the timing marks and all looks fine.
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My grandma has a '07 XLE 4cyl with around 65K on it.
Every once and awhile, completely intermittent, no consistency whatsoever it takes 4 seconds or so to get the car to actually start. Normally 1-2 seconds.
Was going to change plugs. See that you have to replace the whole pump/strainer assy. in the tank, no stand-alone filter.
No DTC's or any other lights on. Wondering about replacing the whole pump/strainer assy. will fix it or what the deal is. Can't order it online at Advance Auto parts, and called their store and the Denso one they show isn't even listed as available at the factory. Hope you don't need an OEM one, sure that's not cheap.
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I have a 2003 Solara 4cyl, some months ago it started to blow light blue smoke on start, but would go away after a few minutes. My mech, could be the valve guides. Then about a month ago it blew a head gasket, didn't overheat though, as I stopped, added water and went to the mech. So new gasket and a valve job, but it still blows smoke on start. THe mech said going to 20w50 might work, it didn't. I check the oil last week, thought it should a couple of qts low, so I added oil, but the blue smoke is still there, and I started to smell oil burning. I thought maybe I added too much, so I add another oil change w/20w50....still have the oil burning, blue smoke on start... The mech thinks might be leaking in the rings...ugh....probably could/ve bought a new engine by now...... The check engine light had been intermittent, the mech said it the catalytic converter....it finally went off by itself four days ago....maybe it burned out..........
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After fixing a misfire on cylinder 4 (bad plug) I find two other problems on a 2005 Camry I bought recently. It has 88k miles (bought at 85k) has new plugs, air filter, and oil changed recently.
When I start the car in the morning a puff of blueish smoke comes out and doesn't come back until it gets started again after getting cold. Has a strange chemical smell. Also when it starts it shoots up to 2k RPMs and slowly goes down to a notch below 1k after a minute or two.
The other thing is that when cruising at around 40MPH and just holding that speed the car will start to vibrate intermittently. Not just the steering wheel or anything, it's felt throughout the car. I also notice that the RPMs fluctuate slightly, just a notch up and down as the vibrations come and go. If I let go of the gas it stops, if I accelerate, it stops.
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I brought the car home last night and shut it off. This morning went out and engine will crank but doesn't show any signs of fuel or spark. Removed one plug and grounded it to block while someone cranked it. No spark. I dumped a little fuel in the cylinder just to see if I could get it to cough or something, but nothing. I tried looking for blown fuses under hood and under dash but I haven't noticed anything out of the ordinary. I pulled out all relays and tapped them and reinstalled. I tried disconnecting the battery to reset ecu and that didn't work either. There are some relays marked that I don't recognize.
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I had a crank no start with very low hpo pressure. I went to do an air test and could not get my IPR valve to do anything with 12 volts applied. I have a switch wired to it, and went as far as wiring the IPR valve directly to the battery and got nothing. This is a brand new ipr valve, never seen a mile of driving, and I'm wondering if my luck could really be bad enough to get a bad one in the box, or if it could be my truck that's frying them. I have cranked on it a lot trying to start, but I have a feeling this IPR is to blame. I'm on my way to get a warranty replacement now. If my truck could frying them, would that be just a bad ground or what? Any way to test my wiring? I have a multimeter...
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Just picked up my 02 Camry, I drove it up from Fla, after driving it about 250 miles or so the CEL comes on, car drives fine, getting 34mpg at 78mph Stopped for gas unhook battery cable (reset the computer) light is now off Drive the car about 250 miles or so no light, stop shut car off, once we restart the car & get going about 5 miles it pops on again? Drives fine, runs fine, drove until next fuel stop and same procedure all over again light stays off for 250 miles or so then as soon as I shut off and restart it pops on about 5 miles after I get going? The car has 62k miles on it, good clean oil & temp never get hot at all.
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I have a 2005 4Cyl Camry - transmission replaced under warranty at 89K. The car now has 150K and I have been having a couple tranny issues recently.
Most alarming - When the car is warm and you shift from Park to Drive the car hesitates for 3-5 seconds before it slams into Drive.
Now the car threw a CEL about a month ago. Took into the Toyota and they took a look at it. Said the code was related to 3 Shift Sensor Solenoids, so they cleared the codes and took the car for a test drive and said "all clear" car is fine and there's nothing wrong.
I'm wondering if one of the sensors is going bad and it just isn't throwing a code yet.
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My mother's 2002 Camry with about 60K on it has been starting hard lately. No check engine light has come on. I did a full tune up hoping the problem would be solved but no luck. The car cranks a lot before it fires. First thing in the morning it cranks more than it should, starts, and then she gets a little smoke out of it. The rest of the day it cranks a lot before firing. I'm assuming that it is a fuel system issue because if she turns the key to the run position and waits a few seconds, the car starts up normally. Sounds to me like the fuel is draining back. What controls the fuel from draining back to the tank in a 2002 model with a 4cyl, the fuel pressure regulator, fuel pump, or something else?
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My battery was dead. Jumped the battery but hooked up cables wrong. Put car on battery charger.
Car has power now. Turns over but does not start. Seems like no power to engine. Engine light is on.
Is there a fuse that needs to be fixed?
2007 Camry LE with 4 cyl.
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The fans are operating as they should when my 2007 Camry SE V6 engine is running: if AC is off - fans are off too till the coolant temperature raising to the middle of the temp gauge, then fans are started to spin on slow occasionally; when AC is on fans are running all the time. But when I turn off the car fans are running on full speed till battery is dead. What can it be? ECU?
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Just purchased a 2002 Camry for my son to drive to school. The car has 275,000 highway miles on it The car was well maintained by the previous owner. I have heard that the timing chain should last about 300,000 miles. However, the owner's manual does not mention any replacement interval. Since the cars mileage is approaching 300k, I'm wondering if the chain needs to be replaced. The engine runs great. However, I do hear a bit of a rattle from the timing chain pully area. I replaced the valve cover gasket and inspected the chain but didn't notice anything unusual. I have mainly driven import cars with timing belts and not sure if this rattling noise is normal for a Toyota with a chain or an early sign of needing replacement.
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My car has 219k miles and has been very loud and when i turn it on the rpm meter goes to 3 and gradually car quiets down and needle comes down to 1. While i drive the steering wheel vibrates too. I took it to the mechanic i was told that timing chain needs replacement as its about time. I was under the impression that timing chains do not need replacement.
The steering wheel vibrates (shakes) it makes light clicking sounds too. I have not been able to diagnose the problem by myself. I think these two things may not be related but engine is really loud. Does timing chain needs replacement? and if it does what else along with it should be replaced?
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I have a 2010 Camry Le with the 2.5 4cyl. What I'm trying to diagnose started in the last 2 weeks, the engine just seems like it's lost some power overall but there is no unusual sounds coming from the engine and it has not triggered and codes. I have checked the simple stuff like the air filter and plugs but am not sure where to turn next.
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Our Camry has about 105,000 miles on it. Car is well maintained, I change the oil every 3 k or so and the air filter is clean (although it is not a factory air cleaner- it is a K&N filter). Other maint is done as specified by the warranty/maintenance book although the car is long out of factory warranty.
We occasionally pull a 800 lb pop-up tent trailer and just got back from the Sierras after driving up some pretty tall passes with it. Car ran great, got great mileage, temp gauge rock steady. I say this because it is probably the most stressful driving we do with this car. While we live in the city we are retired and the car is not exposed to constant heavy traffic, dust or snow. Mileage seems to have remained pretty steady, even with the hesitation.
Got home from the mountains and a couple days later the car began to hesitate when under load. The hesitation shows up as a slightly uneven surge when the car is going up a hill or when it is cold. About 20 mph the car seems to momentarily stop accelerating, then evens out and upwards of 40 mph I don't feel it at all. The hesitation is getting a bit worse over the last couple days in frequency, but still isn't felt on the freeway. I don't know if the hesitation is related to the recent trip to the Sierras.
I hooked up my OBD II computer to see if there are any DTCs, none shown, even left the computer on the car for a day to see if anything might pop up when the car surged, but the computer isn't seeing trouble codes.
My other thought was "got some bad gas", ran the tank out and put in new gas, fuel injector cleaner and dryer. With one new tank it hasn't worked. I haven't replaced the fuel filter yet.
Tried driving the car in 1st and 2nd gear only and found that the hesitation isn't dependent on what gear I'm in, but seems to be more about the speed and load. In neutral, slowly revving the engine, I don't detect anything that sounds or looks like a hesitation (just watching the tach).
Been reading about problems some Toyotas have had with unintended acceleration but I'm not sure that is my problem. I have to admit I didn't know that my Camry was "drive by wire" and maybe I don't understand it enough. Maybe a "reflash" might be needed?
My sense is that I should go ahead and do the next major maintenance items including plugs, but if I had a bad plug or plug coil wouldn't that show up as a Diagnostic Trouble Code item?
Could this be a bad injector or fuel filter? Wouldn't they produce a DTC? How do I break down the next steps?
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Car details: 2002 Toyota Camry V6 3L LXE - 151k miles.
My car took a little longer than normal to start up one morning, but I attributed it to the especially cold weather. I didn't have any problems the following two or three mornings, but my car suddenly died in traffic as I came to a stop, as it had many times before. What made this incidence different in particular was that I didn't feel my car shake or shudder before it shut down. I simply looked down and the Check Engine, oil, and battery lights had all come on, and my power steering was gone.
I attempted, as usual, to restart my car, but the starter only sat and tried to turn over and nothing more. Once I gave it a little gas, it caught, but as soon as I let the engine idle, the RPM dropped to 0 and the engine died. I sat and kept my foot on the gas for a minute or so after I got the car started in hopes that the car would stay on - when I let up, it idled roughly close at a very low RPM for several seconds, shuddered, and then died.
I was unable to get out and under the hood to try the typical trick of unplugging the MAFS and plugging it back in again, so I'm not sure if this would have worked as it has before despite having been replaced. Actually, before I was able to do this again, wouldn't you know it? My starter died. My car started giving a grinding, choking noise when I tried to start it up again, so I simply had it towed to the mechanic.
The mechanic declared the starter dead, which is unusual given I just had it replaced several months ago (could just be a lemon, I guess), so I had it replaced and they said the car started and ran great afterwards. They could not replicate the problem (like previous times), the computer gave no codes.
I noticed after the starter choked, my odometer lost power and my clock reset.
Is it possible that it's some problem with the battery?
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I have a 2007 Prius Package Six. I went away on vacation over Christmas and when I got back the battery was dead and the car wouldn't start. No problem as I was easily able to jumpstart it with a portable battery jumpstarter. However I kept having the same problem as apparently the battery wasn't maintaining a charge. So obviously my battery is kaput and needs replacing. I've watched the videos and plan on replacing it myself.
However when I went out this morning to jumpstart the car it wouldn't jumpstart at all. When I hook up my battery jumpstarter nothing happens. Nothing lights up. The car won't start. Even if my 12v battery is completely dead and cannot maintain a charge, shouldn't I still be able to get the car started with a jumpstart? I realize that as soon as I turn it off I will have to jumpstart again. But I can't figure out why a jumpstart won't even get the car fired up.Am I missing something?
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