I have a 2006 Camry and the power locks keep clicking intermittently -- irrespective of car being running or not running. We have two remotes and this happens with both the remotes. Problem started a few days after the car was detailed. What can I do -- very annoying clicking noise while driving?
View 4 RepliesToyota 2004 Camry door locks are working intermitently. I can only get in drivers door with door fob from outside. Inside, I can only unlock drivers door. Took to dealer and they said they tried the door fob and it work 50 times when they tried it. The key only works in the driver's side. The passenger side is very difficult to get to work. They said they couldn't do anything unless it was acting up. It does - when they are not there. Saw on line 2003 doors had a problem. What do I need to tell dealer to get them to fix this?
View 9 RepliesAbout 15x now over the last year, I get in the car, press the brake, the green light comes on and half way through the start-up, the car locks up. Dead, nothing. The brake feels stiff, the key fob will not open the trunk, nor will it lock or unlock the doors, no more green or orange light on the start button. Completely dead.
The last time it happened, I opened the door, closed it again and everything reset. It came back "alive", the navigation system rebooted, the air was off and my clock had been reset. Some days this happens in a matter of a minute or two and other days it takes ten min to reset. Is it a faulty ground? Not sure why it would automatically reset on its own.
on my 04 supercab f150. one moment door locks work, the next nothing. started this weekend. its a bone stock truck with 128000 miles. sometimes work sometimes don't. have wiggled harness and connections outside the door. worked fine, pulled it out of the shop and parked it now not working again.
View 1 RepliesPower door locks are supposed to activate when the vehicle accelerates to a certain speed from starting the car but mine suddenly started clicking 4 times on-off-on-off every time the vehicle accelerates from every stop or near stop. It's been doing this for 2 weeks and is getting annoying in stop and go traffic.
I have clicked the lock switch on the driver's door to ensure that it works and is not stuck but not sure what else to check. I also made sure that all doors are closed correctly and no ice or snow in them.
2010 SantaFe w AWD
So for a few months now, my car has been making a subtle clicking noise whenever I have the ac or heat on, kind of similar to the noise spokes on a bike would make when children put a card in them. The noise increases/decreases in speed as I adjust the ac/heater speed.
Recently though, it's gotten to a point where sometimes, the blower motor would completely stop working. I can still feel heat and cold coming through the vents when I turn the AC on, but the it doesn't always blow air. I've noticed that sometimes when I hit a bump in the road, it starts working again. It works at all settings and all temperatures perfectly (when it's working that is).
How should I proceed? I don't know much about cars, but from what I've seen on the internet, it doesn't seem too difficult to replace the blower motor. I just want to be sure that the blower motor is indeed the cause, because I don't want to install a new one to be disappointed when I turn it on and still have the same issue. And winter is just around the corner so I would love to get this taken care of.
This is the it's always something post. Alternator rebuilt to 185. Batteries tested by AAA. When I went into the truck tonight the door locks made a clicking sound like the battery was going dead. Truck fired right up at 0 degrees.
I just installed WARN locking hubs and now I only have a defroster blower that works. Is there anything else besides a vacuum leak that might cause that?
6 CD Player has had problems loading and unloading for a few years but now it just says initializing and goes right back to radio.
I am really regretting doing the right thing two weeks ago and not letting this truck burn when it caught on fire on the Turnpike.
Left my car on accessory overnight, went to get a jump in the morning, but a friend put the cables on the wrong ends, blowing everything up in the process.
I've swapped out the battery (battery is good), checked all smaller fuses (replaced almost all of them), but don't know where to go next.
Problems:1) Car does not recognize when car is started (ding does not go to half-time when car turns on, continues to ding when door is open as if door was open with the keys in the ignition and car off).
2) Power locks do not work
3) Dash Lights/radio/heater/accessory lights do not work, dome light does.
4) Car does not go into gear without manual bypass
5) Both low and high beam headlights work, ambers do not (unless hazards are on), taillights do not, brake lights do not. Haven't had the tools to check reverse lights.
Past that, everything runs smoothly and like a Camry should.
I have a 2007 Camry LE and the locks on the passenger doors and back doors stopped responding to the remote key UNLOCK OR the driver side UNLOCK button. I have to manually unlock the three doors. However, the key LOCK and driver side LOCK button works fine. The issue is only with the unlock. I had the same problem couple of years back and it became alright on its own. Now am having the problem again. The strange thing is that, sometimes it all works fine and sometimes I have the issue. Whenever I click on the Unlock button once, the driver side door unlocks. When I click it again, i hear the sound in all the doors and also the indicator light flashes / I hear the beep sound. But the passenger door and back door doesn't unlock.
View 6 RepliesI now have 2 doors (driver and left rear doors) that have sluggish power door locks. They sometimes work, but always have energy when operated.
I'm thinking that maybe it's a connector with resistance and causing a voltage drop since it's on both doors on the same side of the car.
I have a 2011 Camry LE and recently both rear door locks stopped responding to any form whether using the key fob or driver door controls(I have to manual lock and unlock the rear doors)However the rear windows work fine, which indicates the rear doors receiving power. This is really inconvenient. Looking for a clue to what's going on? Only the front doors (driver and front passenger) are operating properly.
View 10 RepliesWhile raising both front doors windows, both windows stopped moving. Checked power locks and they didn't work either. Manual said to reset circuit breaker for this problem but where it's located and the manual doesn't specify either. Just need to know where the circuit breaker for the power windows and locks is located.
View 1 RepliesI'm driving a 2006 4cyl LX Sonata. Just started past 3 months. Intermittently and usually after long freeway driving, the pwr steering locks-up as I come to a stop. Example is driving off the freeway via a ramp and stopping . Steering breaks loose if I apply pressure and goes back to normal. Fluid has been checked for level but not replaced.
View 3 RepliesWe've got a 2006 Civic EX Coupe, and the power windows and power door locks have both stopped working. If I can remember correctly, they kind of faded out over the course of a few weeks, working intermittently then not working at all.
All window and door lock fuses (interior and under the hood) are still good.
What this could be? Is it something DIY fixable? I've removed door panels for random stuff, but haven't really done much with power window electronics.
2006 F150 5.4 2WD extended cab tow package 24k miles
My power windows have stopped working from all locations. I checked and the fuses are good. I can no longer use the exterior keypad to unlock the truck, yet my remote keyring switch will electronically open both driver and passenger doors. Neither driver's nor passenger's interior door switches work.
My remote locks only work intermittently when I press the buttons on the key fob. The locks on the drivers door and rear drivers side door also only work occasionally. If it turns out it's the module in the driver's door, is there a way to repair it? Or must it be replaced?
View 1 RepliesAs my title explains I've been having some strange electrical glitches that are annoying me. I checked the Door Fuse and it's fine. I was going to pull the + Terminal on the battery for 15minutes to try and reset the ECU to see if that fixes this bug. It's pretty strange and I'd like to fix it.
Also, I'm I right about just pulling the + terminal on the Battery to reset ECU? I did this once before a while ago but don't remember. I just remember I didn't have to unlock the stereo or anything which I've seen mentioned can happen after a power cycle.
On my 2006 Camry, my ABS comes on intermittently when braking (~5% of the time) and the speed is very slow (5 mph or less). Exact speed is hard to say. I think one of the ABS sensors is misreading. No ABS fault light on dash.I have an explanation of how to check the sensors for AC voltage when spinning the wheel using a DVM.
1. Without a lift can I check this under the hood instead of at the wheel? Possibly at the plug into the ABS module.
2. Someone else on another thread mentioned that their dealership hooked in a monitor and drove around.
When I asked my dealership how they would diagnose this, they said they would do the same check as I mentioned above (#1). This would be expensive and since it is intermittent, they might not see anything. Do this monitor exists and what it is called?
Intermittently, when I apply the brakes my car makes a wet, gurgling sound, as if I'm driving over wet rocks. My husband jacked up the car and said he sees something on the front axle CV on the right side, not on left, and said it looks like a bushing bearing. He said the brakes have zero grit and he let them spin under power (I'm relating what he told me as best I can, he's mechanical, I am not). I also have a rack and pinion leak, though small, he's worried about the hydroloic (sp?) assist going out. I can't say I know what any of this means, but he can't figure out why my car occasionally makes this terrible sound. I haven't noted any specific condition for the noise.
View 4 RepliesThis has happened twice now, about a month ago and then again today.
I was stopped at a light with my foot on the brake. There is a clunk noise, then the indicator light comes on.
The first time I tried to go, and the car stayed put. I hit the parking button, then went back into gear, no problem.
The second time I just put it in park and then back to gear. No problem.
Sometimes the LR brake skids MUCH too easily under just moderate braking. Other times it works normally. It's unpredictable. I may drive it for weeks with no trouble and then have a few days in a row when the problem comes back.
It usually happens when the truck has been sitting for a while (several hours or days). sometimes it goes away after driving for 10-15 mins, other times it sticks around a few days then stops.
I had Les Schwab inspect the brakes several months ago and they could find nothing wrong. It's been happening for a year or more.
It's a '99 Ranger, 2 wheel drive with ABS.