Camry :: 2006 V6 - Code P0136 / CAT Replacement?
Mar 29, 2016
My 2006 Camry V6 had the code P0420 before. I replaced 2 downstream O2. Now it throws code P0136. What should the next step I am looking for here? Is it a CAT issue? If I need to replace CAT, do they have custom (modify) CAT to improve the performance?
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My 2006 Camry V6 had the code P0420 before. I replaced 2 downstream O2. Now it throws code P0136. What should the next step I am looking for here? Is it a CAT issue?
If I need to replace CAT, do they have custom (modify) CAT to improve the performance?
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My 1999 Camry - 4 cyc has a trouble code of P0136. Auto Zone told me it is a defective bank 1 sensor 2. As per the repair manual, the front passenger seat has to be removed to get to the sensor's electrical connector but an internet video shows that the driver seat has to be removed. Replacing the heated bank 1 sensor 2 on a Camry before?
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2002 F-150 4x4 super crew w/5.4..So I've got the P0136 code, horrible fuel mileage (around 7 mpg just driving to work without hitting very many lights) and the check engine light comes on intermittently, and I get that code. I have borrowed my friends scanner ("Determionator Scan System") and I can see the live data from the 02 sensors. Today I drove around for a while and watched the scanner and the H02 data, and the downstream sensor on bank 1 shows at most, .09 volts, and it also says its detecting a lean mixture. The code P0136 is for this sensor in particular, and I have heard that an 02 sensor should be around 1 volt. The downstream sensor on the drivers side showed around .75 volts at max.
I believe that it is working correctly, or close to it, and I do not get a code for that sensor. So my question is, is the downstream sensor on the passenger side (bank 1) causing the P0136 code and the poor fuel mileage? also, could an exhaust leak cause the sensor to throw a code and not be bad at all? I do have some very minor exhaust leaks, on both sides of the truck..I'm leaning towards replacing that one 02 sensor. The wires and plug connection to that sensor look fine, plus I would think that if there was a bad wire/connection it would not register any voltage at all.. I have to add, the truck runs fine overall after I replaced the intake manifolds last week. It does still idle high, around 1,000 rpm, after coasting to a stop, then after a few seconds goes back down to a normal idle of around 650 rpm. but idles normal upon starting or in park.
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I recently replaced both the downstream O2 Sensors in my 2000 4.2L F150 because I was getting a P0136 (Bank1 Sensor 2) code that I couldn't get rid of by cleaning the connector or fixing wires. 110K miles. Calif truck. No other codes and has always passed smog test easily.
When I pulled the sensors, the Driver's side unit was extremely sooty, as compared to the passenger side (bank 1). The code failure was on bank 1.
Is this normal or is there some rich condition on the driver's side bank that I need to check into ? Originals were Bosch, replaced w/ Motorcraft, if that makes any diff. One on left is driver's side unit.
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2004 XLT 3.0L 141K
I just bought the truck on Monday, the CEL popped up on Tues. It shows code 0136. No other codes. CAT "not ready" on scan tool
A google search proved this is a common topic that for some owners is a repeating and cronic sort of issue. What I've read online is that there is an assortment of things that can cause this O2 sensor to throw this code:
Actual bad O2 sensor
Faulty wiring or connection
Misfire throwing mix off
bad convertor
I don't believe this list covers all the accounts I read but these I have were definitely repeat offenders. My intention is to take to a dealer and let them have first crack at sorting it out. I'm handy enough but I see this as something where an unseen detail can drive ya crazy.
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I'm trying to find information about replacing solenoid in my transmission. I have pdf of repair manual, and it doesn't have much information regarding transmission.
I have a p0766 code, and I think I need to replace Shift Solenoid. Does Technical Information Service Cover this with subscription.
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Had the stem seals replaced on my 2004 toyota camry 4 cylinder (2az-fe engine). The job went quickly and the realigned both camshaft marks to the respective yellow link and #1 and #2 bearing marks per the manual. However, now getting a P0016 error indicating timing is a bit off. It is difficult to verify that the top camshafts are aligned correctly to the crankshaft without taking off the side cover. Doing that is a 6 hour job and requires an engine lift.
Is there any easier, surefire way to check and adjust the timing on this engine without having to take off the side cover? It is probably just a tooth off since it is running well.
The attached pictures show how it was aligned before buttoning up.
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I have a 06 F150 and I am getting the P2207 code on it. Sounds like a O2 sensor has gone bad. From reading a little about it online, it sounds like there are (3) different ones on the truck. Is there any way of knowing which one has gone bad or do you just have to replace all of them? How hard of a job is it, do you need a special tool to remove the old sensor?
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I've got a strange problem with the keyfobs on my 2006 Camry. I tried replacing the batteries in both keyfobs and reprogramming them, but they still will not unlock the door. I suspect there is an issue with some computer part in the car that is preventing it from working. This was my sequence of events:
1. The key fob stopped working, so I replaced the battery. No luck.
2. Found the spare fob, didn't work either so I replaced that battery too. Still didn't work.
3. Reprogrammed both remotes using the steps (pasted below for readability). The programming was successful because the door locks cycled after adding each remote to the ecu on step 13.
However, after exiting the vehicle the locks still weren't working.
The steps I followed to reprogram the key fob:
1. Begin with the key out of the ignition.
2. OPEN and UNLOCK the DRIVER'S side door. CLOSE all other doors including the trunk.
3. Within 5 seconds INSERT the key into the ignition and PULL it out TWICE.
4. CLOSE then OPEN the DRIVER's side door TWICE.
5. Insert key INTO the ignition then REMOVE it.
6. CLOSE then OPEN the DRIVER's side door TWICE.
7. Insert the key INTO the ignition and LEAVE it in ignition.
8. CLOSE the DRIVER's side door.
9. Switch the ignition to ON then OFF.
10. REMOVE the key from ignition.
11. The door locks will now cycle to confirm the vehicle has successfully entered programming mode.
12. PUSH and HOLD the LOCK and UNLOCK button for 1.5 seconds on the first remote being programmed. As soon as you let go PUSH the LOCK button and HOLD it for 2 seconds.
13. The door locks will cycle to confirm successful programming of the remote. If you have any additional remotes to program repeat step 12 if you have no additional remotes proceed to step 14.
14. OPEN the DRIVER'S side door. Programming is now complete. [URL].................
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Independent mechanic replaced brakes and rotors on my 2006 Camry LE with NAPA parts. All was fine for a week or two but now I'm getting a squeak when I apply the brakes. Mostly this is at low speed. the squeak varies in loudness and length and does not happen all the time. Also after repeated stops, the brakes will grind at the tail end of braking (right before the car comes to a complete stop).
Stopping distance is not affected nor is there any vibration. I plan to take it back to the mechanic later this week but what the issue could be?
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So I'll be taking on a project to replace the valve cover gasket on my 2002 Camry V6. There's a bit of leakage through the gasket. And while I'm at it, I'll replace the spark plugs as well. I'm looking for a write up on this project. did a lot of searching but couldn't find anything.
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I have a 2006 Toyota Camry LE. The power outlet is busted. It works just fine (it does have power), its just that the spring inside it has broken. Consequently, it doesn't hold my ipod car adapters or car chargers. What are my options? Will I be able to get an OEM part? Is it worth it or will a generic part suffice?
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Is it possible to change the water pump and serpentine belt in a 2006 Toyota Camry with 4 cyl. engine in less than an hour?
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2006 Toyota Camry 4 Cyl Manual Transmission. I'm getting a PO017 code - Engine Coolant Temperature (ECT) Circuit Low Input.
The dashboard temp gauge reaches a red H at low speeds. After about 15 minutes of driving, the car overheats and shuts down when the car slows down. I wasn't at home and didn't have coolant, so I put water in the coolant reservoir. 15 minutes later at home, the car overheated and shut down. The water in the reservoir was boiling and steaming.
When the car is idle, the radiator fan turns on immediately. I noticed the passenger side fan doesn't run. Could the one fan be the problem?
I was also really low on oil and added oil. There's oil on the engine block too. I might have multiple problems at the same time. See pics. [URL] .....
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I have a 2003 F150 V6 4.2L, 171,000 miles on it. I have four codes on it.
#p1518
#p0316
#p0303
#p0136
I had a p1518 in november of 2012, had it repaired and its back. In the time that I had it repaired and it came back on (maybe a month and a half ago) I only drove the truck maybe 3000 miles, if that. Just curious if this particular part should have some kind of warranty either by the MFG or dealer since the dealer repaired it. Have a limited budget, trying to find out what I can fix on my own in a timely manner.
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Symptoms:
-Car "Surges" at any speed. Loss of power is significant.
-Check engine light is on , DTC code = P0420
Tried:
-Fuel injector cleaner
-Spark plugs replaced around 40k miles ago
-Checked for leaking valve cover gasket (oil in plug wells) None
Can a clogged fuel filter cause this? At idle the car is fine, the symptoms seem to only occur when car is under load (In drive). My son drove this car an it always seemed empty meaning he never put much gas in it.
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This issue pertains to a 2006 Camry LE 4-cyl.
My check engine light came on - code P0032 (upstream O2 sensor). I bought a new sensor from O'Reilly Auto Parts. After installing the new sensor, the car would jerk while accelerating. This continued to happen until roughly 30 miles or so when the engine light came back on and the jerking stopped! I re-scanned the car and it showed the same error - P0032. I then erased the code, and the jerking issue resumed.
I assumed this was caused by a faulty O2 sensor. I returned and got another one. Same issue.
Is this the result of not getting an OEM sensor from the dealer? Or is there something else I should be worried about?
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So of course it has to happen 3 weeks after my warranty expires. My CEL comes on and I have it read and the result is P0440. I find out that my wife has a habit of topping off the gas tank and so I am thinking that she has probably ruined the charcoal canister. It is something easy to replace?
I have an 06 limited edition... Yes, she will not be topping off any gas tank anymore.
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I have a 2002 primus and got the p3006 code.
Engine would Rev and got all the lights. I figured it was the battery and decided to get a Dorman replacement. I replaced the battery but turning it on I would get the p3006 code after a few seconds. No lights at that point. I would drive about 10 miles and would get all the lights and a second p3006 code. I would clear the code and it would get rid of lights and car would operate normally.
Sometimes the lights would come on and the brake light would also come on and the engine would rev. sometimes when that happened I would get code p3012.
could the battery be OK and it be some other problem? I thought p3006 was the bad battery code.
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I have a 2002 Prius with 70,000 miles on it. The car broker replaced one cell which lasted about 15oo miles.
Code P3022 tells me I need a replacement battery.
The internet tells me Gen 2 and 3 cells are better than Gen 1.
Luscious Garage says don't buy a rebuilt battery with old cells, buy a new one.
Toyota tells me they only sell batteries with rebuilt old cells from Gen 2.
One person told me he would sell me a brand new Gen 1 battery with Gen 1 cells manufactured by Toyota. Does this sound right? or rebuild Gen 1 Batteries with NEW Gen 2 or 3 cells?
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