Camry :: 2006 Toyota AC Light Blinking In Few Seconds After Starting It
Jun 10, 2012
I have 2006 - Toyota Camry LE and its AC light starts blinking in few seconds as soon as I start it. What could possibly be the cause of this issue?
I searched for Magnetic clutch relay for 2006 Camry, but could not find any in Auto parts dealer. Can it be Cabin filter?
Where can be the issue and where can I find the correct part?
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First time I'm having an issue with my Toyota Camry 2009 model.
See video: [URL] .....
I'm wondering if this is a starter issue because the battery seems to be fine (can turn on radio, lights are working). The strange thing i noticed was that the light on the rear windshield defroster was blinking. I haven't turned that on in months.
Also, is this covered under warranty ? I bought the extended warranty when i purchased the vehicle in 2008. If i'm not mistaken I'm still covered under it. Is there a place (online) where i could check my extended warranty period ?
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I have a 2002 Camry LE V6 with 189K on it and noticed that it takes several seconds (4 to 5 seconds) of cranking before the car starts. When the car was newer, it used to crank quicker.
Here is what I have done so far:
- Changed all spark plugs @ dealer using iridium type
- Always used Premium Fuel (Petro Canada 91 grade)
- Put in a bottle of injector cleaner (Redline Complete Fuel System Cleaner)
- Throttle Body has been cleaned about 20K ago
- Oil changes are Mobil 1 5W30 year round with Denso Filter
- Battery was replaced last year with an Optima Red Top and was tested a few months back to be in excellent working order.
What I have observed is that when the weather is VERY cold outside (i.e. -20), it seems to crank quicker, but if I keep my car parked in my garage overnight and start it, it takes several seconds. I have never had the car not start on me so that's a good thing.
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I have an Avalon 2009 with the TMPS indicator blinking for 30 seconds when the car is started and won't go off.
I think this might indicate an issue with the sensor? How do I know which one and how to replace it?
Also, I cannot release the trunk from the button in the car (by my knee) or the trunk release button from the remote.
Does the TMPS light blinking and staying on has anything to do with that?
In the past, when I had a rear signal bulb went out, I couldn't scroll down my window either. Once I replaced it, I was able to.
I wonder if the trunk being locked from automatic release methods is the result of the TMPS light being on.
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So coming home from work the engine started misfiring and the Service engine light started blinking five times in staying on for five seconds and then blinking another five times in series. The car started writing very rough and stalled out every time I came to a stop which was not normal function for vehicle. Made it to the Toyota dealership. After paing the Service fee they told me it was possibly spark plugs, ignition coil pack, and an O2 sensor not functioning. I just changed the spark plugs and ignition packs three months ago. So I took the car home put new spark plugs in and a new ignition pack I ordered from Amazon and put it in cylinder for (which they told me at the Toyota dealership) and installed a new O2 sensor myself. Disconnected the battery to clear any trouble codes and restarted the engine. The problem still exists. The trouble code they gave me at the dealership was.p0304, p0138, p0110. The car is still miss firing and Service light keeps blinking.
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My alternator went out , don't have the cash to pay a mechanic to do it for me. How to go about this the best way??!
Noticed that strange rattling sound upon starting up ?? I have a 2006 Sonata V6 . At first I thought it was normal I listened to other sonatas heard the same thing, but I don't think its normal googled it found some info but no clear answer , any way to fix it?
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I have a 2006 Nissan Altima with 142K miles. It is not starting right away. It coughs/sputters anywhere from 3 seconds to 10 seconds before turning over and starting. What the issue is?
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On my 2006 Camry, my ABS comes on intermittently when braking (~5% of the time) and the speed is very slow (5 mph or less). Exact speed is hard to say. I think one of the ABS sensors is misreading. No ABS fault light on dash.I have an explanation of how to check the sensors for AC voltage when spinning the wheel using a DVM.
1. Without a lift can I check this under the hood instead of at the wheel? Possibly at the plug into the ABS module.
2. Someone else on another thread mentioned that their dealership hooked in a monitor and drove around.
When I asked my dealership how they would diagnose this, they said they would do the same check as I mentioned above (#1). This would be expensive and since it is intermittent, they might not see anything. Do this monitor exists and what it is called?
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The check engine light on my 2006 Toyota Camry LE with 95,300 miles came up. The codes that came up on my diagnostic tool were p0011, p0101, and p0113. The code meanings are as follows:
p0011: refers to the VVT (variable valve timing) or VCT (variable camshaft timing) components and the car's power control module
p0101: problem with the Mass Air Flow (MAF) sensor or circuit
p0113: possibly issues with the Intake Air Temperature Sensor
How to solve the issue and get that annoying check engine light off?
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I have a 2006 Toyota Camry SE 4 cylinder. When I turn on the headlight sometimes the light from the shifter doesn't light up. I have to tap it a few times for the light to come on. This happens to the passenger side low beam as well. When I turn on the light sometimes the passenger side low beam doesn't light up I have to go out and tap the headlight a few times for it to work. What can be the cause?
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I have a 2006 Toyota Solara V-6. I was driving down the street with no indication of what was about to happen. All of the sudden my check engine light came on and the car lost all power. I had the car towed home and had a mechanic look at it he put his scanner on it and I'm not sure what codes if any came up but he decided it was the ECM so he found a used one with a warranty and ordered it, he put it in and it did the same thing it turns over but wont start. What could it be ?
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I'm having a problem with my 2003 Camry LE V6. It started when the CD play stopped working, and rather than going to the dealer I just bought an OEM one on craigslist. It works great, except now when I take the key out of the car after about 30 seconds the electronics shut off completely. Dome light goes out, map lights don't work, keyfob doesn't work, etc. As soon as I put the key in the car and turn it to ACC or ON everything comes back, but if I take the key out I lose power within 30 seconds or so.
I am assuming this is a security feature because there is likely a mismatch in codes between the original, and new radios.
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I've got a 1994 Camry V6 that I am swapping transmissions from automatic to manual. Before the swap, the engine ran fine and started first time every time. Now that I have everything back together, the car will take many times of 10 seconds or longer cranking to be able to start. Once it does start, it idles very high and within 15 seconds will die. If, during the time it is running, you touch the gas at all, the car instantly dies. I've got CEL's for CPS and TPS. I have replaced both sensors numerous times, checking with a voltmeter they are within spec as are the wires, I have replaced the ECU and wiring harness.
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I bought auction car, a/c just blowing warm air. a/c light blinking. this highlander limited no manual dial. I have checked relay and working fine, the compressor is not spinning no matter what i try.
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I have a 2007 Toyota Highlander (130K miles)Recently, the A/C stopped working.
What happens: 1) With the car running and A/C off, turn on A/C2) A/C starts blowing and begins to be cool3) About 10 seconds later, the LED on the A/C control knob starts to blink and stops blowing cool air
A few diagnosis items:
1) Between steps 1 and 2 above, putting a PSI gauge on the low side port shows about 40 psi, which I believe to be normal.
2) After step 3, the PSI gauge shows about 130 psi, which I think is way too high.
3) Replaced magnetic clutch relay with no improvement.
4) When step 3 occurs, a light grinding noise occurs but then stops.
5) No diagnosis codes on the OBD2 port.
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I get a call from my mother saying their 1994 Toyota Camry 2.2L car won't start. I went over there today and the first thing I check was the spark. I hooked my spark tester and had my dad crank the engine over. No spark. So I removed the distributor cap and tested the resistance on the primary and secondary sides of the coil. The secondary side was low. So I went and got a new coil, installed it and it still wouldn't start. I checked the spark again and it had spark, but still wouldn't start. I then proceeded to check the fuel pressure. I hooked up my pressure tester to fuel filter, with the included adapter, and had my dad turn the ignition switch to ON position. No pressure. Then I had him try and start the engine, the pressure jumped up to 41 PSI. I then sprayed a little gas into the throttle and the engine would try to start. I'm stuck.
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A month or two ago I noticed my car starting to turn over a bit slower. Then finally woke to car that would not start. I tapped on the starter and it turned over. I took the car to local AutoZone store, tested the electrical system while the car was running...Starter - Good, Alternator - Good, Battery had a few dead cells. I also took out the alternator and starter to have them bench tested. Both passed. So I put everything back and got a new battery. Seemed to have fixed the problem for a couple weeks. Then today go out to start the car and the same thing. Car won't turn over...pop the hood a little tap on the starter and it turns over just fine. Same cycle all day...Turn off car, then wont turn over unless I tap the starter. So I take it out again, and take it to the local auto store...Starter passes again.
It seems like it must be the Starter if the tap works, but I thought the bench tests were pretty accurate? All the cables and connectors look to be in really good shape and if it were the Starter Relay, Alternator, or Battery I wouldn't think that tapping the Starter would make any difference.
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A couple of weeks ago there was a discussion about a car that smoked badly when it started. The boys recommended trying some oil additive that might avoid a ring job. What this product was?
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This has happened only once the other night. I was cruising about 50MPH, hit the brakes for a red light, while I was at the red light the Cruise Control light started flashing. The cruise control would not engage at any speed during the flashing stage, and I didn't think it would as a flashing light usually means a malfunction. I went a few miles turned the car off, restarted it and haven't had a problem since. Just chalk this up to a 1 time glitch?
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I just purchased a used 2010 Toyota Corolla with Airbag Light ON (not blinking). Yes car was in an accident, but Air Bags did not deployed as per the seller. It needs to re-calibrate by Dealer.
As a novice, and avid Toyota person, since it's a good deal I decided to take the car with the airbag lights on. I have seen on youtube, the cause is likely the spiral cable.
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I was trying to get my power windows on my 99 camry to work, so I tried switching some relays to see if this was the problem. I left the horn one out due to breaking it. The relays are not labeled other than the starter one. Anyway, my car will crank but not start. Acts like the timing is out. That belt was replaced 19000 miles ago...
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