Camry :: 2006 - Smoke At Startup / Valve Stem Seals
Feb 18, 2013
My 06' Camry has 141k on it and when I start it up in the morning it smokes and I have been told it is the valve stem seals, and since I'm pretty handy with a wrench. I was wondering all the tools and steps there are to replacing them and if you actually have to take the head off or not?
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2009 Camry 4cyl
I changed my PCV valve over a month ago and still have white smoke coming form exhaust on startup. The smoke goes aways as always, after that the smell is gone and the car runs like normal. The smell of the smoke is not really sweet as if it was coolant leaking, but its not exactly smelling like burnt oil either (I've had cars that burnt oil real bad and it smelled different than this camry).
I've been keeping an eye out on my oil and coolant levels, both seem to be ok. I refilled my coolant tank to full about 2.5 months ago as it was very low and its still almost at full right now. My oil after about 4k miles on the dipstick measures right in the middle of the min and max dots, which it has been for as long as I've owned the car. So these levels are ok I think.
Now, I've read somewhere a while back that after changing the PCV valve or rather after taking the old one off that there still will be some residue to be burnt off. A way to get rid of that is to create a makeshift vacuum by plugging one end of the hose (the one that attaches to PCV valve) and leaving the PCV valve off while running the engine, putting some kind of cloth or similar over where the PCV valve should go to collect all the burnt stuff, thus cleaning the remainder out. Is it possible that this might be the a solution?
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I have an 07 Sonata V6 Limited with 65K miles. Recently I've noticed at startup, the valves pinging and blue smoke coming from the tail pipes. Settles down after a few seconds and doesn't do it again if you shut it down and re-start. Last time I experienced this was on a Silverado with well over 100K miles. Back then it was valve seals. Could this be possible with 65K? I noticed in the maintenance log that they request having valve clearance inspected at 60K. Could this be causing my condition? I'm the second owner, so the 100K warranty is out of the question.
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how easy is it to replace the Valve Stem Core of a tire? I got a hunch one of my Gen 3 Prius' valve stem core pin is slightly depressed and might be leaking air.
Is it expensive and do I need to worry about the TPM or is that a separate component?
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I have a 1984 ranger with the 2.8L and I am doing the valve stem oil seals.
I have instructions from the ranger station. And I have access to mitchell1 and chilton online.
Also I read somewhere about better settings to use for valve lash? The truck has about 80,000 miles on it.
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We have a 2007 Passat. The tire pressure sensor broke off at the valve stem. In checking with the dealer, I was told the tire pressure sensor and valve stem are all one unit. My question is if you can use a regular valve stem and attach the sensor to it, or do you have to get the entire unit with the valve stem and sensor together.
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I was asked these questions tonight, and realized I didn't know the answers. I have "E" load range tyres.
1. Does the Excursion use the metal valve stems like the other super duty's? Are these the press on type? or screw on?
2. What is the Valve Stem size?
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2012 Elantra GLS. Wife comes home and says the TPMS (tire pressure monitoring system) light on the dash is lit. I check the tire pressure. None abnormally low but I decide to top them off. Notice that two of the valve stem caps are broken. The tips are broken off so I can see the little red gasket. On opposite sides of the car. No damage to the wheel covers. The valve stems don't stick out past the wheel covers so I wonder how the caps could have gotten broken. Could that be why the TPS system is giving me a warning? If by chance there was a pressure issue does the light reset itself or does the dealer have to do it?
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Search for this problem gets lots of hits. >>IF<< it only happens on day's first startup, that it is actually normal for a car like my 2002 Camry LE 4 Cylinder.
Just wanted to hear some opinions, not about a constant problem but if it only happens on first startup and then no smoke is coming out of the exhaust pipe on subsequent starts.
Here is a video of my problem: [URL] ....
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I have a 03 Camry, that has started to release white Smoke from the exhaust only on start-up for about a week now. After that I don't see anything not even if i rev up the car.. Only on start up.. WHY??
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camry smoke on startup is a leaking fuel injector seal, not an oil leak.
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I have some serious work that needs to be done on my car. The catalytic converter needs replacing, and the valve cover gasket and cam adjuster seals need to be replaced. This work falls under their respective warranties. However, I'm wondering if I should have the water pump and timing belt done at the same time as I have 77000+ miles on my car. Is there anything else that would be good to do at the same time as this work. I would be going back to the VW service center for these repairs. Would it save me any money to do this all together?
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I have a 2002 2.4L Camry with 120K miles. I plan to keep it for another 10 years so want to get it in better shape. All I've done so far is air filters and changing the oil. I did let oil changes go way too long a few times then at 70K miles started emitting blue smoke only at startup after sitting overnight. It looks like valve stem seals so the engine uses oil now but it's tolerable and I really need to avoid spending big bucks unless there's a breakdown.
I've read about a procedure to replace the valve stem seals without removing the head using compressed air, but am a bit scared to try it for fear I will get in over my head.
I'm planning on getting up to date on all recommended inspections, changing spark plugs, coolant, air filter and cabin filter and plan on changing the oil from conventional over to 10w30 synthetic w/ subsequent 5,000 mile intervals from now on. I'm in a better financial situation now so can afford parts but want to try to do all labor myself unless a mechanic is necessary for something extremely important or critical.
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Got a weird issue with my 2014.5 with 10k on it today, V6/2GRFE. On Wednesday I checked oil, it was at full drove it to Virginia to pick up a car and I followed it back 150 miles home, looked fine. Sat Thursday, let a family member drive it to work Friday, was fine. Saturday I drove it about 40 miles, was fine. Sunday I moved it around the driveway, was fine.
Today I started it and got a huge cloud of gray smoke out the back. Smoke continued while idling. Shut it off, got a family member to look at it (and make a video of it for future record). Basically on startup it lets out of a big puff of smoke (worse than my old V8 truck with leaky stem seals), then smokes lightly as it idles. Revved the engine and another puff came out, and the smoking did not stop. At this point I called up my dealer and wound up having it towed in as after about 3-5 minutes of running it was still smoking, as I'm under the impression burning synthetic oil is very bad for the emissions control system. Before leaving I let it cool back off, checked the oil and found it about halfway to 2/3rds between full and add on level ground. I did not let it warm all the way up to see what would happen over concern for damage.
Car is sitting at the dealer now, the manager said he'd try to see if they could get to it tomorrow (do have an appointment for Thursday); probably feel bad after the paint fiasco with the last one. Engine ran fine, seemed to be getting good fuel economy this tank, no CELS. I get that 1qt/1000 miles from break down/very minor burning is normal, but not this much smoke and nearly half a quart in 300 probably is not.
I'm also preparing for this to be difficult to pin down as first hand experience tells me oil burning can be a pain sometimes to troubleshoot, but my 91 Camry with 225k on it doesn't smoke like this, and typically valve stem seal seepage (which would be unacceptable though not serious) goes away quickly and presents much later in engine life. Not cold at all and had an oil burning smell to it for sure, but anyone have any normal expectations for what it could be? My 2012 2GR had 34k on it with zero oil use, burning or issues. If they say nothing my plan is to show them a video, and see what they say.
Pretty frustrated as I was liking this car more than my 2012; felt like it ran a little better, got a little better gas mileage, and road/drove a bit nicer too (probably the newer tires). Also had run into zero issues, whereas in the same span of ownership my 2012 already had one paint repair, a recall, and a brake light switch. Just had an oil change in June too at the dealer, verified the level was fine when I got it back, no leaks either.
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2006 blowing white smoke and sluggish until its driven for a few miles ..smells like fuel .. New head gaskets and the works started after 20 days over below freezing temps nights at 5 to -5 ....
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Had the stem seals replaced on my 2004 toyota camry 4 cylinder (2az-fe engine). The job went quickly and the realigned both camshaft marks to the respective yellow link and #1 and #2 bearing marks per the manual. However, now getting a P0016 error indicating timing is a bit off. It is difficult to verify that the top camshafts are aligned correctly to the crankshaft without taking off the side cover. Doing that is a 6 hour job and requires an engine lift.
Is there any easier, surefire way to check and adjust the timing on this engine without having to take off the side cover? It is probably just a tooth off since it is running well.
The attached pictures show how it was aligned before buttoning up.
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My 06 6.0 is blowing a fair amount of blueish, whitish smoke only on initial startup, then continues to blow smoke slightly for around 10 min until it's warmed up. It seems to be getting a little worse as time goes on, only on startup though. truck has no other issues otherwise, has an egr delete, and some old edge tuner. I don't think it's head gaskets, no other symptoms.
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I've been getting some grayish/blueish smoke on cold starts lately and decided to do some investigation to see if there was a problem or just the cold temps.
I googled it and turbo oil seal problem was pretty common so I figured it was easiest to start there. I removed the pipe between turbo and CAC and it had quite a bit of oil it in. The pipe after the CAC had a fair amount as well. I checked the oil level in the engine and it was slightly down but I can't say how accurate the dipstick is nor it was completely full after the last oil change. Either way, not much oil is entering the intake but I would assume any is too much.
Here's my main concern - What's the likelihood of getting a runaway from this?? Is it possible for the oil seal to fail 'more' than it already has putting more oil in the intake allowing for a runaway condition?
Obviously the turbo needs replaced but is it safe to run it the way it is until it completely fails or replace immediately?
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So I'll be taking on a project to replace the valve cover gasket on my 2002 Camry V6. There's a bit of leakage through the gasket. And while I'm at it, I'll replace the spark plugs as well. I'm looking for a write up on this project. did a lot of searching but couldn't find anything.
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Cold starts only (warm starts completely fine), typically the rpm jumps to 2k or so then slowly climbs down as engine warms up. However recently one in ten start ups the rpm will jump to 2k then immediately drop to 1.5k (sounds like a drop in rev engine) or so. Engine does not shake or stall and still starts fine. Throttle body is cleaned and spark plugs were all replaced. However I cannot remember if this started happening before throttle body was cleaned or if its not related with it at all. Battery is fine too or according to battery charge test. I don't see any loose hose that were taken off while getting to throttle body. I recently tried fuel injector cleaner but didn't make much difference (only 1 application though).
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I am bringing in my V6 2005 Camry XLE in for a pulley recall and have reached 90,000 miles. The dealer told me I should also have the timing belt, water pump and engine seals replaced since they are all under the same engine side cover. I am considering the timing belt, but do I need to replace the oil seals and water pump?
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