Camry :: 2006 - Rear Right Stop Light Doesn't Lit Up When Braking
Dec 23, 2014
Rear brake light doesn't come on on the right side only when braking.
However, when I press on remote buttons to lock or unlock the car doors, all the rear bulbs light up including the rear right stop light bulbs so I don't think this is light bulb or socket issue. I checked the stop, alt, and Haz fuse and they're all good. what else I should check?
I also checked TAIL fuse, and that wasn't it. Car is Toyota Camry Standard 2006
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On my 2006 Camry, my ABS comes on intermittently when braking (~5% of the time) and the speed is very slow (5 mph or less). Exact speed is hard to say. I think one of the ABS sensors is misreading. No ABS fault light on dash.I have an explanation of how to check the sensors for AC voltage when spinning the wheel using a DVM.
1. Without a lift can I check this under the hood instead of at the wheel? Possibly at the plug into the ABS module.
2. Someone else on another thread mentioned that their dealership hooked in a monitor and drove around.
When I asked my dealership how they would diagnose this, they said they would do the same check as I mentioned above (#1). This would be expensive and since it is intermittent, they might not see anything. Do this monitor exists and what it is called?
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I have a 2006 Toyota Camry SE 4 cylinder. When I turn on the headlight sometimes the light from the shifter doesn't light up. I have to tap it a few times for the light to come on. This happens to the passenger side low beam as well. When I turn on the light sometimes the passenger side low beam doesn't light up I have to go out and tap the headlight a few times for it to work. What can be the cause?
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I have been enjoying my PP GTI from the time I picked it up a month ago but have recently started noticing a noise that comes from the rear suspension AFTER braking to a stop. Basically, whenever I come to a complete stop and the car SETTLES (not while its breaking, but after a split second after it comes to a stop) on the rear suspension, I get a very noticeable clunk. This also does not just happen with hard stops from speed, it happens also when i creep forward and stop suddenly and the car's rear end settles.
I have thought about what it could be and I have come to two potential conclusions: 1) Break slap caused by the pad settling back into the holder in the caliper but it seems like its making too much noise to be just that. 2) This is related to the dreaded rear suspension noise issues that our friends in Europe have experienced. Relating to number 2, the car does seem abnormally loud when going over rough roads here in Detroit. It doesn't necessarily clunk or rattle but you can definitely hear the shocks working. This seems abnormal to me being a brand new car (my first in fact) which is why I am afraid it could be the shocks/top-mounts.
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I drive a 2002 Toyota Camry v6, and when I brake over abnormal surfaces the car doesn't stop, it just keeps rolling making that rippling sound.
One time we went through and intersection on a green light and another car coming across almost hit us because the ABS kicked on and our car wouldn't stop. It barely missed us.
I heard that I could remove a fuse or something that would disable the ABS. Which fuse can I pull ? Are there any other ways to disable ABS?
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Passengers side tail light doesn't react when braking, using hazards or blinker, what do I replace? The bulb is lit, but doesn't blink or brighten when the brakes are applied. As of right now I'm replacing the bulb socket seeing as when I replaced the bulb the contacts were covered in a brown crust, is there something else I should be looking at?
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2007 Sonata 3.3. Crunching, clunking noise at low speeds, braking or accelerating away from stop lights. Noise disappears at speeds over 25-30 mph. Noise can be replicated by rocking car forward and backward while in park, with engine turned off. Rocking side to side does not reproduce noise. Bouncing car suspension at all four corners does not reproduce noise. Hood open, rocking forward and backwards, noise seems to be coming from behind engine, and with hand on engine motion can be felt. I'm thinking engine mount, but how can I get a good look at it to check?
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I get a grinding type of sound when I am braking but only when I come to a complete stop and then again when I release the brake. It is only for a second but it is loud and doesn't sound good. What could be wrong. It also is much worse when it rains.
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I have a 2004 Prius with about 50K miles. It is driven every day. I recently noticed that the motor doesn't shut off as frequently as it used to when I stop at a light. It then also shows the battery as almost empty (1 bar) on the touch screen. Gas mileage also seems to be a little lower than it used to be. Other than that the car drives fine. Could this be an indication of the battery starting to go?
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I got the UR rear sway bar for my 2010 camry LE today, but it only has the bushing but doesn't include the bracket that secures the bushing? Is that OK can I reuse the OEM bracket? or did they not send me everything?
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I've had this problem with my 08 v6 camry se recently: when i first start my car and stop at a stop light my transmission will seem to disengage or not switch gears properly resulting in me redlining and not being able to accelerate properly. shortly after everything returns back to normal and the problem goes away on its own never to return until i begin the process all over again.
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Alright so my 06 is at about 102,xxx right now and has given me no major issues (knock on wood) besides this stupid noise that I cant pin point to fix. So far I've narrowed it down to this, sounds like its coming from the right rear and usually only happens when I am slowing down and or braking. Ive also taken note that it only happens when its really hot outside , all signs have been pointing to the rotors and brakes but i need some thoughts/opinions on what else it could be before i shell out almost $200 to get my brakes fixed. Here are some more details about the car
Rear pads replaced sometime last year they still have meat on them but i did not replace rotors nor did i get them turned.
I am sure that the noise is coming from the rear, ive been half way in the trunk while my buddy drove and i hear it coming from right rear.
Shocks have been replaced (noise was occurring before replacing them)
Nothing seems loose everything seems to be tightened down right.
Tires are brand new (noise was there before getting tires and after)
Mufflers are secured normal wiggle mounts look good.
Emergency Shoes have never been replaced but look ok.
Wheel hub looked great when i took it apart (Looks new doubt its that)
It happens when I am braking from 35mph below or sometimes 0 to 35 40mph rolling no braking then it goes away.
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When accelerating and/or braking, a thumping or knocking noise comes from the rear of the car. I do not believe it's my shocks, as there is no noise when going over bumps, only accelerating and stopping. What may be the cause? Control arms maybe?
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I just bought a 2007 Sonata V6 (GL or GLS). Before buying the car, the last owner had the rear brakes "serviced" because the mechanic said the brakes were "sticking" - charged the old owner $300 for it. When I am on the highway and I brake, the rear brakes shudder. Do you think the shudder is because the rear brakes are still sticking, or because it needs new rotors?
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I have a 2006 Camry 4 cylinder that I turned the rotors on all four wheels and replaced all the brake pads on all four wheels with ceramic pads. I did this a year or two ago.
Now this doesn't happen every time you brake but sometimes you will get a vibration in the steering wheel when braking.
When I had the rotors turned at O'Reillys they said they were too thin. So I had them bring out a new one and that one was too thin as well according to whatever specs they were using. So they turned my old ones.
And the car doesn't pull to either side when braking. There are not grooves in the rotors and it doesn't make any screeching when braking. I did notice that there is a ridge on the edge of the rotor when you run your finger across it from the inside to the outside of the rim of it. My guess the rotors are warped.
And if the rotors need to be replaced is this rotor better than the stock ones and thicker? [URL] ....
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My truck is a 2004 F350 6.0 as with most of the ford diesels from this era it has hydro boot brakes.
Under normal braking the truck felt fine and the brakes behaved as they always have. However if you where to depress the brakes hard, as if making an emergency stop, the brakes would not lock up in the way they did when I bought the truck two years and 80,000km ago. The problem was slow to appear and at first I blamed it on the larger tiers I was running (stock 2012 F350 wheels and tires (yes the offset is wrong)) but after switching back to my stock wheels for the winter I knew that something was not right. It was something I could live with, it did not make the tuck unsafe it was just that it did not stop as well as I knew it could and this avowed me. I replaced the front and rear calipers and when that had no effect I swapped out the master cylinder this still made little difference.
I drove the company truck all of last month (2008 GMC 2500 Duramax) and when I got back in mine I realised that I had to chase down the problem. I did a lot of reading online and after thoroughly flushing and bleeding my brake system I narrowed my problem down to either the hydro booster or the power steering pump. The plan we came up with for diagnosing was:
1. Thoroughly inspect for PS/Hydro boost and brake fluid leaks following the procedure found here Hydro-Boost Power Assist Systems: Operation Diagnosis and Repair
1a. Consider bleeding the brakes as a bit of trapped air would cause your symptoms.
1.b Consider flushing the PS system. Some suggest this works with tough steering.
2. Have a shop check the PS pressure is within spec. (assuming this is cheaper than buying the tool or just replacing the pump) If it is low, replace the PS pump.
3. If PS pump is fine, or is replaced and the problem is still there, consider replacing the Hydro booster.
It is not super complete but it was a place to start. We checked for leaks and found nothing. The pedal would not sink under braking but would say firm meaning the brake system was free of leaks.
I began a rudimentary test of power steering pump. With the truck in the drive way I could easily turn the steering wheel however, applying the breaks about half way would make turning the wheel imposable. This led me to believe the power steering pump was starting to go. The next step would be to have the pump tested using a power steering pressure gage or take the truck to a shop to have it tested. I found the pressure gage to be more expensive then the new pump so went that way. With 350,000km on the truck I figured it was not a bad thing to do even if it turned out to not be the cause of the problem.
It is a bit tricky to get the power steering pump out but after pulling the radiator line under the truck I could drop the pump out the bottom. The new pump went back in the same way and after a full flush and bleed of the system it was time for a test. What a difference! The truck stops like the day I got it. If your symptoms are like mine I would recommend you check the power steering pump. If it is the problem it is a lot cheaper then replacing a master cylinder or calipers.
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My wife went out and started the Camry today and turned on the A/C which has been working fine. She ran in to grab something and when she came back A/C was off. The control panel doesn't light up at all. I can't find anything listed as an a/C fuse under the dash or hood.
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2009 Camry LE: my rear brake light doesn't work when braking (fully lit), but it works okay for night-time mode (dimly lit).
This problem is affecting just the right side. The left side is okay for both braking (fully lit) and night-time mode (dimly lit).
Troubleshooting: my deduction led me to believe that my bulb is not burnt out and the wiring harness and fuse are okay because the bulb can be lit during night-time mode, just not when braking. I also think that my brake pedal switch is okay because my left-side brake light is fully lit when braking. I can only speculate it's a circuitry/logic board problem of some sort; I'm just not sure where I can locate the problem.
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Just picked up an '07 5spd & noticed that the dome light doesn't work. no biggie, but then found that the dash lights don't work at all. When I turn the lights on the backlighting for the window switches comes on, as do all the running lights. The odometer & clock backlight properly dim out, but the dash & heat/fan control lights are dead. dimmer dial on the left panel has no effect. dash cluster fuse is good. If I can't get the dealer to fix it (only had it two days).
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My wife's 2010 Lariat, has a problem with the heater switch. Its stuck in one speed.
Also the rear defogger switch doesn't light up. We don't know if the switch to it is just bad, OR if the whole system is bad.
Was also wondering if the blend door would be bad??
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This will be my first winter using a dedicated set of winter tires and wheels on my 09 Camry. The set doesn't have TPMS sensors. Will the TPMS light constantly flash or just stay lit when the system doesn't detect the sensors? I could live with the light always lit but if it flashes it will be annoying.
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