Camry :: 2006 - Loud Noise Coming From Idler Pulley On Cold Startups When Put It In Gear
Mar 12, 2016
I have a 2006 Camry 2.4l and I'm hearing a loud noise coming from the idler pulley on cold startups when I put it in gear. I don't hear it when it's in park. The noise gets worse if you turn the a/c on. I have replaced the belt, idler pulley and top motor mount. I took the belt off and cranked it when cold and there was no noise even in gear. I can see the idler pulley moving and can confirm that's the noise but what it causing the belt to make it do that? Could I have bought a defective idler pulley?
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So from reading around a lot, it seems like the chirping is from the belt tensioner or idler pulley. That said, I've not been able to find anything definitive. I tried to do the water bottle squirt test (from Gates' youtube video) and either I did it wrong or the chirp did not go away implying the issue is not the belt. While I was looking in, I could see the tensioner shaking some.
If my tensioner should not be moving, do I just need the pulley or the pulley and the mount?
- Pulley [URL] ....
- Pulley and mount [URL] ....
Also, if the above items will fix the chirp, which brand would be best?
2007 RX 350, 113K.
Chirping gets worse as it heats up. Seems to happen independent of ambient temperature. Purchased a year ago so unsure of the history of part changes.
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I have a noise coming from the front of the engine. The noise stops once the the thermostat opens and the water pump starts circulating coolant.
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2002 Camry 4 cyl. Can the idler pulley alone be replaced on the serpentine belt tensioner? I noticed a very slight side to side play when I had the belt off. No noise from it. When I looked at rock auto, they sell the whole bracket with the pulley.
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The idler pulley bearing of my 3.3l Sonata NF has become quite noisy, as though it is running dry. Does this necessitate a complete pulley replacement or can it be disassembled and the bearing repacked (or if necessary replaced). I am becoming concerned that the bearing may fail altogether soon.
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I noticed my engine whine more than it usual since the last few days. So, I took it to the dealership and have them check. They said that it is the idler pulley going bad. Just want to see some info on diagnosis.
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I noticed my engine whine more than it usual since the last few days. So, I took it to the dealership and have them check. They said that it is the idler pulley going bad.
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The wife came home with a really loud screaming noise coming out from under the hood. I used my stethoscope and I'm 95% sure it's the alternator. It was a pretty easy removal process, sending it out to be rebuilt tomorrow. I guess at 90k I have no reason to complain.
I chose to get it rebuilt because of info that I had heard true or not, that Toyota alternators have an internal clutch and aftermarkets may not work properly.
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My Ex is missing the label showing the serpentine belt routing diagram. I pulled one off the Autozone website for V10 with AC. It showed that there are 2 idler pulleys (one on the left and right side of the alternator). It also has the tensioner pulley.
I only have a tensioner on the left side of the alternator. The one on the right is missing. There appears to be a threaded hole where a pulley should go. Since I bought this used, I thought the previous owner took it off.
I used the bolt from the old tensioner pulley I replaced for the hardware and put a new pulley on.
I also looked at other V10s on used car lots and none of them had the pulley to the right of the alternator. Should there be one there?
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I have a 2003 Santa Fe 2.4. Couple days ago my idler tensioner pulley or whatever its called seized up and took the belt out with it. I got a pulley that resembles it from Autozone mind you that it was the only parts store that had one in stock even Hyundai didnt have the part. The only difference is the hole size for the bolt is about 1/4 inch bigger then the stock pulley. Is there any chance I can get a spacer and make up for the difference?
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An idler pulley on my 2002 F-150 seized and snapped the serpentine belt. The pulley is below and to the left of the belt tensioner. The pulley doesn't have a bolt but a hole that looks like an allen wrench would fit it. I couldn't find an allen wrench to fit it. Called AutoZone and they have a pulley removal tool in three sizes. What size wrench would fit the idler pulley? I want to make sure I get the correct size tool so as not to screw up the pulley when I start pulling on it.
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Doing some charity work on a '04 5.4. Noticed top right idler pulley was sitting on a 45* angle, figured it was shot and decided to replace it. The bolt broke. Borrowed an Easy Out. Short version, I have a very messed up bolt hole. Tried drilling and tapping but couldn't get it to bite and was scared to go bigger. I don't know if the threaded part pulley actually mounts can be replaced and if so how to go about it. Not sure how much deeper I can drill if it can't be replaced? At a standstill.
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I have a very slight grinding noise coming from the PS pulley area. Its possibly bearing noise although its hard to say. Is there a specific torque requirement. Any good parts...
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So I purchased a 2009 Accent hatchback about 11 months ago and so far its been great. However, recently (as in the past 2 weeks or so) I have begun noticing a strange cyclic noise developing from the engine compartment accompanied with some minor vibrations. Over time it has grown more prominent. I would rather deal with this before it becomes worse (and more costly) if its a serious issue.
Some info: I recently took a trip to North Carolina (from Florida). I also recently replaced the spark plugs before I left, so they are relatively new. The car has about 37k miles. After popping the hood and taking a look, it seems as though the noise is coming from the power steering pump/pulley area. The noise seems to match the rotations. Either way, here's a video of the noise (pardon the moving in the video, I was mainly recording for sound): [URL] ....
It may sound like normal engine operation, but it did not make that cyclic sound for the first 10 months, so it worries me. Perhaps I'm just paranoid.
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In a few weeks I will be bringing my new to me Ranger back to the great state of Texas. The truck however, has a squeak when running, which I think has been concluded as the idler pulley for the timing belt. Well, I'm nowhere near the truck still and in order for it to get here it will need to be driven half a day to reach me, at which point I could do all the work it needs done.
My question is: Should I take the risk and have it driven here before the belt change (I did look at it while I was out there and it's already cracking pretty good), or should I go ahead and have someone get the belt done at a shop? It's less the belt that concerns me I think, and more the pulley, even though it's just started squeaking in the last 1000 mile.
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I need to replace the bearing on my Idler pulleys, both smooth and grooved. I also want to replace the bearing on the tensioner pulley. What are the part numbers and the best place to order them from?
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Looking for how to's out there on how to get all of the fan shrouding removed? I am trying to do my idler and tensioner pulley bearings and those shrouds really make it tough.
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I've a loud squeaking sound coming from the front of the engine on cold start. This only happens when I start the engine after overnight parking . There are no squeaks when the engine is warmed up or when I start up with a warm engine.
I'm driving an 07 Camry and live in a region with hot tropical weather.
Video link to the sound [URL] ....
What could be the probable cause of the this and how do I rectify it?
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I am a proud and recent owner of a 2015 Sonata Sport 2.0T!
Car looks amazing and am very happy with it.
But lately I have been noticing lots of drone noise coming from the engine, and a really loud cold start as well. The "cold start loudness" goes away after a little bit of driving.
Was wondering if this is just the way the 2.0T sounds, or should i get it checked?
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My tensioner pulley is already shaking but when the ac clutch is engaged the tensioner starts to shake even more and it starts to make a clunking noise extremely loud and fast. I also noticed that the crank pulley is shaking quite a bit too so I don't know if that has anything to do with it.
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I have a 2006 Hyundai Sonata that is making a loud clunking noise when I first put the car in gear. I start the car, put my foot on the brake, put the car in R and I hear a creeeeaakkk, clunk! noise coming from the front, passenger side of the car. I back up out of the driveway/parking spot, put the car in D and get a slight clunk! noise out of the same area again.
At first, I thought this was maybe a ball joint or a tie rod failure, but a friend of mine and I took the front wheels off of the car this past weekend and I gotta say, everything was found to be in solid shape. Nothing loose, bushings are in good shape, boots are in fantastic shape, no loose wheels that can be moved in ways they shouldn't move. After getting the noises and clunks to happen again, my buddy's opinion is that it's my transmission having a tough go of it and that I should take it to a transmission shop. Is it a transmission thing?
2006 Sonata, 6 Cylinders, 141,000 miles (227,000 km)
Never did anything with the transmission fluid since I've owned the car. I bought it in 2010 when it had 80,000 miles (129,000 km) on it.
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