Camry :: 2006 - Engine Vibrating At Idle
Aug 18, 2013
130k miles, 4 cyl camry LE 2006, im very good about my oil changes
The car gets a good amount of vibration while it idles, you can sort of notice it with the dashboard vibrating, I've known it was happening but didn't seem terrible so I hadn't put much thought into it. It also goes away when i get moving, but will sometimes get worse again at stop lights.
Today I was jumping a friends car (2009 mercury mariner), having both hoods open at the same time made the amount my engine was vibrating pretty noticeable compared to hers. Totally different cars, i know, but still seemed like it was a bit much.
My question is what areas should i be looking into as the possible culprit? What could possibly cause an engine to have more vibration as it ages? Just to clarify, it doesn't seem super intense, like about to tear itself off the frame, but just enough so that you would notice it.
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When sitting around in Drive at idle, my 2013 Camry is vibrating VERY noticeably at idle when the A/C is running. Turn the A/C off and idle goes back to normal.
I don't seem to remember this last summer - is this pretty normal for the I4 models? It seems to happen when the engine is at low RPM in gear and goes away if I blip the throttle or put the car into Neutral or Park. Even more shaky in reverse.
I usually run 87 octane, but have tried a tank of 89 and 93 with much the same result, but a little more power from a stop in hot weather. This feels very unusual for a 2013 car - my old 2002 Nissan didn't seem to even notice that the A/C was on.
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I just bought an 2006 f150 4x4 with a 5.4l 3valve, and this morning when I pulled into work it was idling Rough as I let off the gas and rolled into my parking spot. No check engine light or nothing, just when it's in gear Rpm is at 600-700 and vibrating. When I shifted it into neutral or park it went away and the engine ran smooth. According to the oil pressure gauge I've got good flow. I was told from the dealer that they replaced the cam phasers, timing chain and put new spark plugs in it. What the issue is here?
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I am working on a friend's '92 Celica GTS Manual trans, and the massive vibration at idle is telling me its time for engine/trans mounts.
After some searching online..I finally found a place that shows all of the mounts. HERE
In that diagram, which of the mounts/dampers should I replace, and which of them never wear and can be left alone? Or, should I go all out and replace all of the rubber?
I have heard of going with poly mounts, and filling the old mounts with polyurethane caulk from HD, and all of that jazz - I'm not really interested in that - I want to stay OEM here.
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I recently noticed that when at idle, the engine is vibrating heavily. I know for sure it was really smooth and now as if there is something loose in there due to which it is vibrating. I don't know what is causing this i have always keep changing oil myself every 10k miles and transmission oil at every 30k.
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I upgraded from a 2009 ES 350 to my 2013 GS 350 recently. One huge difference I noticed is the sound of the car while in idle. My ES was so quiet that sometimes it was hard to tell if it was on or off when parked. My GS has an irritating vibration noise from the outside that is very noticeable when I'm parked. I can hear it when my windows are down and I'm sitting in the driver's seat. It's not loud, so to speak, just incredibly irritating to the point where the vibration hurts your ears. When I'm in my garage and the sound is a bit more isolated, it sounds the loudest from the driver-side mid-to-back section of the car. However, the car itself doesn't feel like it's vibrating.
I also noticed at times when I start my car, my engine gets loud and the RPM shoots up to a bit past 2 (while still idle), then quiets down and evens out. Is this normal for this gen GS? The only reason I ask is because neither of things happened on my ES, so either I'm not used to it, or something is wrong. Driving/ performance seems normal. I do understand this engine should be a bit noisier than my ES and I am enjoying the extra HP and AWD ... I have a full, unlimited mileage warranty so getting anything fixed won't be an issue. My main concern is wasting my time going all the way to the dealership and embarrassing myself if it's completely normal.
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I have a 3.0 Ranger, AT 2WD, from 2001 with 175K miles on it. I have a CEL on, with Misfire cylinder #5.
Also when the truck is cold and I step on the gas, it seems to run on like 3 cylinder for 2-3seconds and then it somehow fixes itself and runs great until it warms up.
After it warms up, it shakes violently at idle. The shaking goes completely away once I'm past 1200 rpm or while driving. What I tried so far:
- All new Motorcraft filters (Air, fuel)
- Motorcraft Plugs
- Motorcraft Wires
- Motorcraft Coil
- Ran thru two cans of SeaFoam
- Checked injector resistance
- "Reset" the ECU
- Cleaned MAF sensor
- Cleaned IAC
What else I need to check?
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I recently purchased a 2006 SE with 4 cylinder/at combo. Engine is silky smooth, but I have a rattle that I think is coming from behind the driver instruments or against the fire wall where the brake m/c is. This only occurs when the engine is in gear, mainly with a/c on, & the idle drops to 600-700 rpm range. Like if I am sitting at a red light for more than a minute or two. If I put the tranny in neutral, cut the a/c off, or step on gas to raise the idle speed the rattle goes away. It's definitely rpm dependent.
It's not the a/c, because I have been able to repeat the issue with the a/c off. I did notice that on the back of the air filter box, there are several plastic components attached but what they do. Is there anyway to increase idle speed?
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I have an 08 camry v6 with 31K. I noticed when I got off the highway after driving for about a 1/2 hour the engine had a loud vibrating/ticking noise when I stepped on the gas. This morning when the car was cold and I drove it locally it was fine, i also checked the oil and it's clean and full. Not sure what's going on. Also this only happened after I had the whole car painted not sure if it's related since I dont know if they take parts off to paint a whole car.
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Driving down the road today and all of a sudden the car loses power, starts vibrating and the Check VSC and Check Engine lights came on. I pulled off the highway and got the car stopped and engine shut off. I let it sit for about 5 minutes and started it up and all warning lights went off and I was able to drive the car home with no adverse effects. Seems to be running normal now. Searched the archives and saw numerous posts about a loose gas cap, but this was something far more serious.
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I've got an issue with my truck, I was towing home my camper this weekend and my engine started missing out and vibrating very bad, then it overheated... pulled over and check codes, p0263, p0299, p0300, p0301. Oil all over engine, tons of blow by, definitely a dead miss on cylinder 1. Smokes bad out of exhaust, zero power, and blows cap off of oil filler when loose, tons of smoke and oil from ccv.
My question is, could it be in the valve train? Or is it going to lie in the piston/rings? Blown head gasket? It did overheat, but didn't puke out of bottle, turbo timer kept it running for a bit after I shut it down roadside, egts were definitely high. Also the egr is deleted, have a predator programmer with custom tune for she delete.
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I am hearing a weird like vibrating noise when the call is in DRIVE during idle like at a red light or stopped position only. Noise goes away when placed in Neutral or Park. The cars gotta be in drive to make the noise... My car is a 1999 Passat V6 AHA engine code by the way, only 20K on it...
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When I make a complete stop and still in DRIVE my car sometimes idle very low; below 500rpm (engine starts to shake a little like it is going to turn off). And sometimes it does that for like 10 seconds and then picks back up to 800rpm. What is the cause?
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I have a 2004 GMC Envoy w/130K+ miles that just went in for maintenance. One of the things my mechanic was fixing for me was a rough idle, vibrating strongly enough to rattle the mirrors and glass. He replaced a very loose and failing water pump, and I will say that the idling is better, but it's still a little rough. The one problem was hiding another. Once I accelerate, no problems; nothing in park or neutral, only idling in drive. No CEL, no codes from the computer. My mechanic thought engine mounts might need replacement.
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I have a 1991 Buick LeSabre, sometime last year the check engine light came on, and I took it into a mechanic who told me that a magnetic sensor on the timing gear broke off and that it is the problem with the car, but it would cost me 500 dollars to replace the part, because it is located in the engine. I noticed that the engine felt like it lost power, and the car started vibrating when I was idle. The beginning this year, I replaced the spark plug wires, and replaced the spark plugs, when I replaced the spark plug wires, I realized that two of the wires were broken, as soon as I was done.
I tested the car, and the power is back, but I still have the stalling problem. I will try to describe how the car stalls, I come to a stop, and when I push on the gas to accelerate, the car just conks out, so I have to restart the car, and rev it a little to keep it from conking out again, and it starts running normally. I have been told by another mechanic that I need to replace a Electronic Ignition Control module, which I can not find, and that it is possible the fuel is not getting into the chambers. I just want some answers to my problem, so the car will last me till I can get a new vehicle or something better.
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As of late, my 06 Camry (I4) idle's real rough @ 600 rpms when in park. It stays the same in drive with the A/C on. However, when I switch the A/C off, for about 2 secs, the idle will be smooth before dropping down in rpms. Some folks have said this is normal, but I've had this happened to my car before. I've got 135K on it so I'm guess a tune up is in order.
I'm new in the game of working on my car myself since a past issue with the dealer on my '06. So if all is needed is a tune up, I can do that myself with the parts of my choice.
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I have a 2012 camry se i4 (29k miles). So, when i shift to R the car start vibrates, i can feel it when i hold the steering wheel. Also, something at the stop sign or red light, i can feel the car vibrates. I live in MN, the weather is really cold and a lot of snow now. Is that why?
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I'm trying to find why my car's steering wheel vibrates. This happens at all speeds regardless or acceleration or breaking.
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Have a vibrating noise at 70 mph front right of car? Also a squeak when you hit a bump sounds like back inside of car? I know not much to go on....
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My idle goes real fast 2500 rpm special when is warm can't get idle to go down for nothing took truck to camping on dirt road with the vibration idle came back to normal and stay for while and over the soon start again. No code...
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Camry 06 4cyl with 100k automatic. I have replaced spark plugs, cleaned the MAF with Maf cleaner, Changed air filter, changed cabin air filter, transmission flush, engine oil to synthetic 5w30, used seafoam in the fuel tank and the intake per sticky.
We have owned the car for 3 weeks now. We live in Orlando, FL so the lowest temp we get in the mornings is 57 some days during winter times. The car never idled high at 2000 rpms since we owned it. I never had a car that idles that high on cold start up but my other vehicles idle at 1200 rpms on cold start up.
It idles at 2k for like 3 mins and then drops back to 800 rpm which is seems like normal operation of cold start up. I have read mixed reviews about been normal or not. Most of this reviews are in really cold temps not like the ones here in FL.
So does this appear to be normal? My wife called me today telling me the car did this. She said it was that cold this morning. I haven't got a chance to read the manual and see if there is a note there since she is at work.
I just need to know if it is normal even in hotter temps like FL. The car drives fine and no check engine light. Stock engine as far as we know.
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