Camry :: 2006 - Dash Pad Is Cracked After 8,000 Miles
Oct 8, 2013
My wife's 2006 Solara SLE convertible has the infamous dash pad cracking.....on a vehicle with less than 8,000 miles. The cracking started at about 34 months in areas not visible -sides of dash concealed when the doors are closed. Subsequently, several other areas have started to crack... like others, the car sits in a garage, under cover and never in the direct hot sun. When the top is down, the car is driven from point A to point B and the top is raised. The vehicle is maintained by the book including the Toyota recommended products for maintaining interior finishes.
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I have a 2006 Camry with a steering vibration at 60-65 miles per hour. I have looked at all of the Threads for similar problems but everyone is guessing at the cause....stating "Check the alignment, check tire pressures, check the wheel balance, check the wheel bearings."
I have checked all of these things to the best of my ability and there does not seem to be a problem there. I bought new tires and had the front end aligned. Vibration still there. Had tires balanced 3 different times. VIBRATION STILL THERE. Removed wheels and inspected all suspension parts. No obvious problem seen. Switched tires front to back then left to right then front to back again. VIBRATION STILL THERE.
Forgot to mention that the right front is wearing on the inside but the alignment checks out. I had the alignment re-checked at the tire dealer and then checked it myself later in the month using toe plates that we have in the shop for our SCCA ITB Club Racer. Is there a Recall that I am not aware of ?????
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My 2006 GS300 has oil burning issue after 80k miles now my odo is at 110k miles. I have changed my oil every 5000 miles, keep burning about 1 quart every 1k miles average. Literally burnt about 20 quarts of an oil with premium fuel. At 105k miles, I had replaced my bank 2 sensor 2 after the check engine light and vsc light came on, reset the code those lights came right back on.
Check the code again, found out bad cat converter between passenger side sensors. The recalls has been done at 65k miles at dealer. My questions are :
-What would be the cause of burning that much of an oil? No leaking on floor or bad smell.
-Is burnt oil causing the failure of cat converter?
-If I replace the cat, will it go bad again?
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I recently purchased a 2006 SE with 4 cylinder/at combo. Engine is silky smooth, but I have a rattle that I think is coming from behind the driver instruments or against the fire wall where the brake m/c is. This only occurs when the engine is in gear, mainly with a/c on, & the idle drops to 600-700 rpm range. Like if I am sitting at a red light for more than a minute or two. If I put the tranny in neutral, cut the a/c off, or step on gas to raise the idle speed the rattle goes away. It's definitely rpm dependent.
It's not the a/c, because I have been able to repeat the issue with the a/c off. I did notice that on the back of the air filter box, there are several plastic components attached but what they do. Is there anyway to increase idle speed?
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Changing the oil in my wife's 03 Camry 2AZ-FE, I noticed a small scratch-like crack in the oil baffle that's attached to the under side of the valve cover. According to the interwebs, this is a known issue and in a worst case a chunk of baffle can break off and jam the timing chain. How concerned should I be? I'm thinking I should just monitor it for the time being and get more alarmed if the crack gets bigger or the baffle starts looking like it could separate.
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I have a 2005 Camry LE 4D Sedan. Last week, we had a severe winter storm down here for around 4 days. My car was covered with ice all around for around 3 days before I cleaned up the ice with a piece of plastic scraper and the built-in heater in back windshield last Wednesday. Then I used the car for two day's daily commute and weekend shopping without seen any problem.
But this Monday morning, I found out that the back windshield was totally cracked but still in shape, fully with fine cracks all over the place. It looks just like someone used a small hammer cracked the back windshield carefully and did not break it. Then I wanted to drive to a Toyota dealership in town to have them check it out and fix it. But on the way to the dealership place, the back windshield started falling down pieces by pieces. Each piece is in size of green pea.
In one Toyota dealership, I was told that this kind of damage is not covered by Toyota warrantee. And then this was confirmed by North America Toyota Customer Service Center. I do not believe that this should be the case! It definitely caused by the bad quality of the back windshield. It should be the defect during the manufacturing of this piece of windshield. I am just out of luck and got this bad quality windshield.
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It's coming off on all 4 wheels and its OEM original paint. I can see other areas where the paint has cracked and starting to lift as well. These Lexus wheel paint really suck... My Volvo alloys are 18 years old and still do not have peeling issues like this!!
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I have 170,000 miles on this car. This is a 4 cylinder. The seam at the top of the radiator has cracked, causing a small leak. I have confirmed it is not leaking from the cap if you are curious. So it's time to replace the radiator. My question is: is the radiator easy to replace? I have worked on my car before with basic maintenance (oil, transmission, etc) I was thinking it would be straightforward to replace the radiator myself.
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My 2006 Tiburon has run 70,000+ Kms and was running without any major issues until last week. Last week, it started to show starting issues. When checked, I found a cracked radiator and replaced it immediately. It solved the start up issues for the time, but the issue came back after a few weeks. My wife’s 2000 Corolla also changed radiator recently, but the issue didn’t appear so far.
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I have a hairline crack (with some starring) on my left rear tail light of my 2006 Prius touring. Any good glue or compound to patch it up and prevent water/moisture/dirt from getting in there and still stay clear for light to shine through?
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I have a 2007 GS 350 AWD and growing frustrated with some of its 'issues'. I have had the wheels replaced b/c they coating was 'bubbling' (the local dealer said this was normal...50,000 miles later this is happening again). At 60,000 miles to have frozen brake calipers replaced...never had this happen on any other vehicles, to include domestics with well over 100,000 miles, much less two of them freeze. A cracked exhaust, not to mentioned multiples recalls on a vehicle that has not even reached 75,000 miles. The engine has funny idling issues at low RPM's and the VSC and Check Engine lights came on list night but have since extinguished.
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We have a 2005 Camry XLE, with 102,00 miles on it. It has been very well cared for, and only serviced by our Dealer. We would like to keep the vehicle for another 50,000 miles. We have had an assessment of the vehicle done by the Dealer, because our brakes were very soft.
He found a great deal of air in the lines and flushed them out. He also found:
1.) Leaks in the power steering rack, which he graded as a level 8 severity on a 10 point scale. Repair estimate is $1100 to replace and align.
2.) Both front struts are cracked and graded for severity as an 8 on a scale of 10.
What do you think:
A.) Are these safety issues ?
B.) What are the consequences of delay ?
C.) Are these problems indicative of other likely problems ?
D.) Is it better to have a Dealer perform the repairs ?
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I have a 2006 Sonata with 88,000 miles on it. Currently, and for the past 11 months, the CEL has been on and the code always returned is a p0456, very small evap leak.
I searched for leaks but couldn't find any. I also replaced the purge control valve, but the same p0456 continues to reappear. Of course I also made sure the gas cap was on tight.
I received a coupon from the dealer for a free diagnostic so I took the car in.
The dealer reported the code as p0455, large evap leak, and said the cause was a cracked fuel pump housing. Cost to repair $850. Seems to me the dealer just picked the most costly part to replace, although I can confirm they looked at it because they forgot to screw the access cover back on.
So what I would like to know is how the dealer would have made such a diagnosis? I cleaned and inspected the outside of the pump and saw no crack, but I also understand that the crack may be too small see.
I want to be able to confirm that the dealer's diagnosis is correct, but how can I do that? I have a hand operated vacuum pump and access to shop air to aid in the diagnosis.
I read elsewhere on this site about pressurizing the system and putting soapy water on the area to show bubbles where the leak is, but where would I connect the air hose? And more importantly, what is a safe pressure to use?
Of course tracking down the cause of p0456. I know the charcoal canister could be problem as well, but I'd like to find some way of isolating down the failing component.
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While swapping on my winter tires yesterday, I noticed the strut boot (I believe it's called) on the passenger side has a large crack, almost split in two. See picture attached.
The Prius is a 2006 with almost 370K KM (~231K miles), and I am hoping to keep the car for another 1-2 years, until the PIP2 is out.
Is this something to be concerned about? The strut is not leaking, and the suspension seems otherwise fine.
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Not so much hitting pot holes but hitting dips in road I get a noise up front like hard plastic cracked and hitting edges, had the front end checked all fine and he changed the sway bar links said sloppy, still noise, I went under found the front pipe bracket broken so I clamped that, still noise-could it be the strut boot? Doesn't seem to be the shock bushing they seem tight but can not really see them and the upper shock part seems secure. 2011 accent 60k miles. Where I could look next? The plastic around the wheel well is cracked but I don't think all that noise is coming from that, but the next warm dry day I will try to snug that up.
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I bought my wife a new a new Camry a couple of weeks ago.
when should I get the first oil change done? 5,000 miles per the dealership or after the first 1000?
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I just notice that two of my tires, all of them Michelin Energy™ Saver A/S tires, seems to be worn out after 10K mile usage. However, when I look these tires at the Michelin web site, it states that these tires have a 64K mile warranty. Also if I decided that two of my tires, all Michelin Energy™ Saver A/S tires, need replacement, could I just replace the two worn out tires or all 4 tires?
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No noticeable oil on the ground and there's no noticeable exhaust smoke. I have 207,000 miles on it and don't have any intention of making any major repairs. Usually using Castrol or Quaker State regular 0w-30. I'm the original car owner that keeps a 5 quart oil jug handy.
However, where the oil "might be" going and is there an additive that I may could use to slow the oil usage down?
I drive about 225 interstate miles and about 175 surface street miles weekly.
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I have a 2011 Camry LE. I took it to have the oil changed today. The odometer was around 46,000 miles and that's what the service guy put in the computer. After the service was completed, the guy leaned in the car and had me turn the keys 2 clicks while he pressed the odometer button to reset the oil change light. It took him a few tries before he said "ok, got it." Afterwards, I noticed the odometer was reading 40,000. I showed it to him, and he had no explanation for what happened. Neither did anyone else that worked there. I called my local Toyota and they had never heard of that happening.
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2002 Camry 4 Cylinder. 140 K miles
I am pretty sure the oil leak I spotted is from the oil pan gasket. (Interestingly I searched and didn't find many posts about this, that makes me wonder if this is not a typical issue.)
Is there anything that blocks removal? Does it just drop out after undoing the bolts?
Also can I get the felpro gasket? Do I need any sealant?
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I have a 1999 Toyota Camry It runs perfect. It has app. 141,000 miles . It uses about 1 quart of oil every 800 to 1000 miles. Why it sees to use more oil if i drive in the mountains and use the transmission as a brake by downshifting to preserve brakes.. There is no smoke I can see and the oil usage seems to go up to about 1 quart of oil every 600 to 800 miles if i drive in the mountains this way just a couple of times.
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