Camry :: 2006 Car Won't Start Unless It Gets Jumped
May 22, 2012
Got a 2006 camry. Car wouldn't start so I jumped it and it ran fine for a run or even 2 starts on its own. Now it won't start at all unless it gets jumped but the weird thing is that the lights work fine but when I try to start it nothing happens.. No noise, no nothing. Is it perhaps an alternator issue? Or maybe just needs a new battery?
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My 04 V6 start-up RPM has jumped from about 1400 to 1900. Haven't performed any maintenance that would affect RPM at start up. MAP was cleaned with CRC product made for this procedure and a new MAP o-ring was used. Throttle body control valve is clean and shows no signs of residue build up. I have lifted the negative battery terminal for an hour with no effect. Haven't found a vacuum leak. Only thing that has changed is use of Shell gasoline. Throttle pedal was replaced last October ,but start-up RPM did not change until June of this year.
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Mechanics cannot find out why it occasionally does not start and has to be jumped off. If left not driven for a day walk out next morning try to start and it has to be jumped off. It only has 8,000 miles on it. 2013 Ford F150
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I have a 1997 Toyota Corolla that will not start unless it is jumped, but it's not as simple as that.
Once it's jumped it runs well after a few minutes to warm up. The gentleman from AAA informed me that the battery is bad and needs replacement, but when I took it to the store where I purchased it (and it is still under warranty) they informed me that they would charge it first to verify it was still working before offering a replacement. Forty-five minutes later they assured me that battery was fully charged and would hold a charge. I took it home and put it into the car and it still will not start.
But it's not as simple as that... Here's the odd thing thing. When I put the battery in, and place key in the ignition the usual check engine light, door ajar light, dome light (etc.) work. When I turn the key to start the car I hear a single click then... nothing. If I take the key out and reinsert it, the usual check engine light, door ajar light, etc do NOT work.
Stranger still. If I disconnect the battery and then reconnect it (or just wait 20 minutes) the check engine light, door ajar light, etc do work, until I try to star the car and then the single click returns and the process repeats. To add there is moderate corrosion on the battery terminals.
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We have a poorly maintained 2001 Dodge Intrepid 2.7L with 155,000 miles on it. Over the Christmas break, we left it untouched in the driveway for a month. After that it wouldn't start without being jumped off, and the oil light flickered when the car idled. We had the battery, alternator, and starter checked at a local shop; all of them checked out fine. Nevertheless, the car wouldn't start without being jumped off. It would click once, and then nothing. We also noticed it was overdue by 2,000 miles for an oil change, and thought this may be causing the oil light issue. Since the 2.7L Intrepids are notorious for engine sludge, we added a couple of ounces of Seafoam, drove about 15 miles, and then took it in for an oil change. Now it starts without a jump. So my question is Is there any way that oil sludge (and perhaps a weak starter?) is the issue?
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2002 F250 V10....
Ambient temp is 4-9 degrees
Step-son borrowed truck. I started it at 9 in the morn and moved it to a different parking spot on street. No problem starting.
Step-son came at 11 and took truck. It started no problem.
He drove it to work. At 5 p.m. would crank, but not start. A jump got it running.
On charger all night. Would not crank this morn. Would not crank even when jumped.
Are we looking at a bad battery or something else?
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I went out to start my truck yesterday which is a 2004 F350 6.0 Diesel. It wouldn't crank over so of course I tried to jump start it and it fired right up. Went to town while I was there got 2 new batteries and put them in went to start truck and again nothing but will only start when jumped even with new batteries I'm guessing there is a grounding out issue. Where to start?
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my 2006 camry crank no start. I'm also attaching a pic of some light blue-ish corrosion material on my negative charge side of the battery.I don't think it's the battery. Radio works, lights work, hi-beam flashes strong.Is the starter? Starter looks like a fairly easy replacement. Take off the two bolts and the starter wiring.
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I have a 2006 solara 3.3L. I bought this car about 4 months ago and it was running fine. Couple weeks ago I try to start the car and it would crank but won't start. I checked the fuel rails it was getting but somehow not starting... What can be the problem?
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When I start my camry (06 v6) the check engine light flashes 6 times then goes off. I brought it to auto zone this morning to have the code read and they said it wasn't throwing anything. Car seems to be running fine, haven't done anything to it in the past few weeks other than open and close the hood once or twice.
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I have a 2006 Camry 2AZ-FE. ONCE IN A WHILE when I start the engine (especially when cold) I get smoke coming from the tail pipe. It's been an ongoing issue for the past two years....what is the cause and what area should I look to repair? I check my oil and coolant at least once a month and it does not get low.
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My camry used to crank a couple of seconds longer and then take. Yesterday it died just after starting and wont start. It cranks. Checked and found fuse 15 in eng comp blown. Changed it and blew again. Check fuel pump, it seems to work when momentarily apply power to it. The engine management light does not come on when swithing ignition on any more as well. The airbag light also does not come on since this as well. Was wondering if ecu is gone bad?
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Camry 06 4cyl with 100k automatic. I have replaced spark plugs, cleaned the MAF with Maf cleaner, Changed air filter, changed cabin air filter, transmission flush, engine oil to synthetic 5w30, used seafoam in the fuel tank and the intake per sticky.
We have owned the car for 3 weeks now. We live in Orlando, FL so the lowest temp we get in the mornings is 57 some days during winter times. The car never idled high at 2000 rpms since we owned it. I never had a car that idles that high on cold start up but my other vehicles idle at 1200 rpms on cold start up.
It idles at 2k for like 3 mins and then drops back to 800 rpm which is seems like normal operation of cold start up. I have read mixed reviews about been normal or not. Most of this reviews are in really cold temps not like the ones here in FL.
So does this appear to be normal? My wife called me today telling me the car did this. She said it was that cold this morning. I haven't got a chance to read the manual and see if there is a note there since she is at work.
I just need to know if it is normal even in hotter temps like FL. The car drives fine and no check engine light. Stock engine as far as we know.
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2006 solara. Just changed both belts. Occasional 1 sec squeal on start. Both belts appear tight.
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I bought a 14 IS250 f sport in July of 2013, one of the first ones to hit the U.S. And ever since I took delivery every August like clock work the car would have no power and need to be jumped. Once it was jumped it was good for a year and come next August it happend again. The dealer can't seem to find anything wrong the last 2 times I brought it in. It's now back at the dealer for the 3rd time for the same thing.
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During the winter, i always noticed that when starting up the car for the first time, the rpm always jumped high for about 60sec - probably around 1100. i know is normal - just the antichoke kicking in. However, summer is almost here and today was a hot day, and when i started the car and it automatically idled at 600rpm straight away. Is this normal ? or has something happened to my autochoke?
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My 1995 Honda civic dx jumped time and won't even crank and have no clue what I got to do to fix it?
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2004 GTP. I have recently replaced the condenser, drier, compressor......
My issue is that my compressor only works when jumped. I checked the relay and 10 amp fuse located in the engine bay fuse box and both seem fine. I replaced the pressure switch and put a new pressure switch connector on it. I got it to take a full charge by jumping the compressor. It blows very cold when jumped. The outside temperature on the dash is reading correctly.
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I was running my car today and low tire pressure light jumped on. I checked the tires and they was all good. Turned the car off then tried to turn it on and the remote key fob didn't work so the car wouldn't start. I had to do it manually to start the car. I get no clock, no interior lights. On the dash it says the trunk is open when its not. Every time I restart the car it doesn't remember my dash light settings. I have Shark racing deleted harness installed with fog lights leds and I have HIDS from DDM turning with the relay installed. It did this stuff after I hand washed the car. I don't think water got in the wiring. Did my ECU blown. I just had it at the dealer and they put a new battery in the key fob and they changed the oil.
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I have a 2004 Nissan Quest SE. We were on a trip and drove 15 hours to Florida which was a 870 mile trip. We had 104,440 miles on the van when we left, validated by the dealer service records and our own notes to track MPG. We arrived in FL and didn't notice the odometer. The van remained parked for 4 days. Upon leaving, we noticed it had 115,310 miles on the odometer. Upon checking the trip computer (setting 1), it did not reflect this 10k mile gain. The trip computer also didn't reflect a change in MPG with the additional 10k miles. The trip computer (setting 2) hasn't been reset in a very long time as we don't use it. and continued to show a total mileage just over 4k miles, therefore, also not reflecting this 10k mile gain in the odometer.What would cause this jump of 10k miles on the odometer?
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2012 Santa Fe SE and the battery went completely, utterly dead. Reason unknown but that's not the issue for now. The battery was purchased new.
Also, I had a Viper 4204 remote starter installed after I got the car, April 2014. I use the keyfob that came with the Viper to open the doors and start the car as needed.
Trying to get a jump start but as soon as I connect the cables the alarm goes off and the car won't start. Called the place where I had the remote start put in and he suggested two things. Use the original Hyundai keyfob and press the unlock button to stop the alarm. Or put the key in the ignition turned to the ON position BEFORE connecting the cable to the battery. Tried both, neither worked. Also tried just holding down the kill switch under the hood. But that didn't work either.
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