Camry :: 2006 - Brakes Squeak After Replacement
Dec 16, 2013
Independent mechanic replaced brakes and rotors on my 2006 Camry LE with NAPA parts. All was fine for a week or two but now I'm getting a squeak when I apply the brakes. Mostly this is at low speed. the squeak varies in loudness and length and does not happen all the time. Also after repeated stops, the brakes will grind at the tail end of braking (right before the car comes to a complete stop).
Stopping distance is not affected nor is there any vibration. I plan to take it back to the mechanic later this week but what the issue could be?
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Two days ago I had the front brake pads on my 2003 Toyota Camry LE replaced because they were squeaking when I stopped. That squeak stopped, but after driving about 15 miles, I heard a squeaking noise AFTER I took my foot OFF the brake pedal. Pressing the pedal makes the squeak go away. I took the car back the next day and they changed the front rotors. While driving home, the squeak returned. I took the car to my regular mechanic this time. He says the guys who installed the brakes didn't clean anything when they put the new ones on, so he disassembled everything, cleaned the rotors, etc. and put everything back together. He also said they put the wrong pads on the car - I need ceramic pads and they used the metallic kind. Well, the brakes are still squealing when I'm not pressing on the brake pedal and stop squealing when I do press it.
Characteristics of the squeak....It only seems to happen when I drive the car more than 5-10 miles. When I drive a short distance, it doesn't happen. The sound is rhythmic, not constant. If I step on the brake and let if off slowly, like at a stop light, I can hear it "squeak, squeak, squeak" as the tire rotates. The faster the wheel spins, the more constant the sound. It only seems to come from the driver's side.
I hate to take the car back to the original shop because I don't think they know what they're doing. I'm scared of getting ripped off at one of the big chains (I'm a female and of course whenever I take a car in for service at one of those places "everything needs to be replaced.")
Will Toyota ceramic pads fix the problem? Can the wrong pads cause the brakes to squeak when you're not stepping on the brake pedal? Someone else suggested it might be the caliper binding and that would require replacing it.
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When I 1st brought the car the original brakes and rotors squeak, I really didn't mind bcuz I had plans on changing them, now I installed the aftermarket slot/drilled rotors with new ceramic brake pads, and I still get squeaking from the front brakes, weather it's wet or dry, cold or warm they squeak, what I can do to stop this?
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I don't know if it could be pads, rotors, calipers or something else. Just noticed it today. It squeaks while driving and then when I hit the brakes it lets out an even louder annoying squeak. Obviously I was thinking its something involving my brakes but why would it squeak while I'm just driving? What could it be?
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The ABS and ESC lights (amber) in my 06 Sonata are coming on intermittently.....
The lights just come on while driving....the ESC switch doesnt have any effect.....the brakes seem to work well....then, after several start cycles the lights will go out and all will be well again....then after a few start cycles and while driving they come on again.
I used the code tester from autozone but no codes are stored...they told me that brake codes aren't always accessible with their hand held unit though....
Also, I have noticed that when turning left or right I get a squeaking from the front brakes now and then,...it was doing this before the ABS/ESC light issue though...
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What size sockets do I need in order to complete a brake pad replacement for my rear brakes?
Also, what are the torque specs for each bolt I will be refastening?
And just in case a bolt breaks... what size bolts are used on the calipers?
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I changed the front brake rotors & pads on my wife's 2009 Toyota Camry & everything seems fine except when doing sudden or slightly hard stops it seems to do a clunk/knock type sound from the front brakes. It also only does it sometimes not every hard/sudden stop.
One thing that comes to mind is that when I went to tighten one of the guide pin bolts it was a real pain, the big bolt that the screw threads into kept spinning making it hard to tighten the bolt into & none of the others did this. I thought I tightened it down but possibly not?
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My rear brakes are grinding so I am preparing to replace all pads and rotors. Any special tools or procedures from when they did theirs? Do the rotors have retention screws? Do you have to use a special tool to push in the pistons?
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I've got a strange problem with the keyfobs on my 2006 Camry. I tried replacing the batteries in both keyfobs and reprogramming them, but they still will not unlock the door. I suspect there is an issue with some computer part in the car that is preventing it from working. This was my sequence of events:
1. The key fob stopped working, so I replaced the battery. No luck.
2. Found the spare fob, didn't work either so I replaced that battery too. Still didn't work.
3. Reprogrammed both remotes using the steps (pasted below for readability). The programming was successful because the door locks cycled after adding each remote to the ecu on step 13.
However, after exiting the vehicle the locks still weren't working.
The steps I followed to reprogram the key fob:
1. Begin with the key out of the ignition.
2. OPEN and UNLOCK the DRIVER'S side door. CLOSE all other doors including the trunk.
3. Within 5 seconds INSERT the key into the ignition and PULL it out TWICE.
4. CLOSE then OPEN the DRIVER's side door TWICE.
5. Insert key INTO the ignition then REMOVE it.
6. CLOSE then OPEN the DRIVER's side door TWICE.
7. Insert the key INTO the ignition and LEAVE it in ignition.
8. CLOSE the DRIVER's side door.
9. Switch the ignition to ON then OFF.
10. REMOVE the key from ignition.
11. The door locks will now cycle to confirm the vehicle has successfully entered programming mode.
12. PUSH and HOLD the LOCK and UNLOCK button for 1.5 seconds on the first remote being programmed. As soon as you let go PUSH the LOCK button and HOLD it for 2 seconds.
13. The door locks will cycle to confirm successful programming of the remote. If you have any additional remotes to program repeat step 12 if you have no additional remotes proceed to step 14.
14. OPEN the DRIVER'S side door. Programming is now complete. [URL].................
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My 2006 Camry V6 had the code P0420 before. I replaced 2 downstream O2. Now it throws code P0136. What should the next step I am looking for here? Is it a CAT issue? If I need to replace CAT, do they have custom (modify) CAT to improve the performance?
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So I'll be taking on a project to replace the valve cover gasket on my 2002 Camry V6. There's a bit of leakage through the gasket. And while I'm at it, I'll replace the spark plugs as well. I'm looking for a write up on this project. did a lot of searching but couldn't find anything.
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I have a 2006 Toyota Camry LE. The power outlet is busted. It works just fine (it does have power), its just that the spring inside it has broken. Consequently, it doesn't hold my ipod car adapters or car chargers. What are my options? Will I be able to get an OEM part? Is it worth it or will a generic part suffice?
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Alright so my brakes squeak a lotttt and its really annoying and embarrassing. They feel fine stopping power wise, i dont get vibrations and the car doesnt pull to either side, I looked at my pads and it looks like i have a 1/4in left on them which im pretty sure is good. I really want this to go away... do we have electronic sensors telling us we need new pads? Untill then ill be partially using my hand brake to reduce the embarrassment.
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Is it possible to change the water pump and serpentine belt in a 2006 Toyota Camry with 4 cyl. engine in less than an hour?
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2006 Camry, intermittently the brake pedal sinks by going a inch or so further than normal. Car still stops and I don't think it is all the way at the floor. It is not very frequent, maybe 5% of the time. When it does occur it always happens on a second pump while slowing to a stop or turn, so the car is always going below 10 mph when it occurs.
Mechanic can find nothing wrong with the brakes themselves or any air in the lines. The fluid level is stable. I am guessing it is either the master cylinder or booster. Is there a way to diagnose which one it might be? Could it be a vacuum leak due to only showing up at low speed?
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I have a 2013 2.5L Golf (Highline from Canada) that every morning when I go to work and every afternoon when I leave work, the brakes squeak for the first 2 to 3 stops.
It doesn't seem weather dependent, just cold dependent (now that it is cold in Canada).
Is this normal for a set of stock Golf pads? I am pretty sure its coming from the rears.
Out of all the cars I have owned (1973 BMW E3 Bavaria, 88 E28 535is, 01 E39 540i), none have ever made this much noise in the morning, no matter what the conditions were like.
If this is normal for stock pads, I will probably put a set of aftermarket ones.
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I bought new brakes for the R, Hawks HPS pads with ECS tuning 2 peice rotors.
Me and a friend installed them in June. I went threw the break in procedure written on the box that came with the pads. The brakes work fantastic, they stop the car so much better than stock but the problem I have now is that loud squeak when braking normally. If I do a hard braking no squeak but I can't do that all the time, my passengers are going to hate me hehe. The squeak sounds almost like metal on metal grinding. When I inspect the rotors everything looks fine.
When installing them I used the paste that came with the pads and installed the metal backing that came with them too. I can't seem to figure out what I did wrong. Haven't really had time to take everything apart again either but I think I might do that this weekend but before I do that is there anything I should have on hand?
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Have a 2006 xb- great car! Have only one problem so far. The brakes squeak while reversing out of my driveway in the morning.
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I have about 1300 mi on my V6. And for the last 600 or so miles the brakes squeak loudly when stopping at a red light.
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My brakes (still OE) have been loud as crap lately. Car (and thus the brakes) has 41,000 miles on it.
I don't believe they are done, because i see plenty of pad, and the wear sensor hasn't come on, plus the squeak isn't constant (pads that have the metal squeal bar make noise consistently when they get to it, IME). If I brake hard they are usually quiet, it's only light pressure that is doing it now. I know about the common "noisy when cold" that our brakes do, but mine have been doing it in warmer weather as well, and it's getting really annoying now.
I'm guessing that if I just take it all apart and put brake grease behind the pads and on the slides, this should quiet things down?
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Yesterday I had my snow tires installed at Costco. Immediately afterward I noticed that the rear brakes squeak when I apply the brakes. I took the car back to Costco and asked them if they applied the proper torque or if anything unusual appeared during the change-over. They said no.... I loosened and retorqued the wheels and no change......they still squeak when I apply the brakes.
Questions: I assume there are wear indicators on the rear pads, could this be causing the squeeling? If so, aren't they supposed to squeel all the time when they reach their limit? I haven't inspected the wear yet...... What the tolerance is for the amount of lining on the pad. Could this be a rotor problem? I"m not feeling any pedal vibration.
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