Camry :: 2006 (5th Gen) Rough Idle At 600 RPMs When In Park
Aug 5, 2012
As of late, my 06 Camry (I4) idle's real rough @ 600 rpms when in park. It stays the same in drive with the A/C on. However, when I switch the A/C off, for about 2 secs, the idle will be smooth before dropping down in rpms. Some folks have said this is normal, but I've had this happened to my car before. I've got 135K on it so I'm guess a tune up is in order.
I'm new in the game of working on my car myself since a past issue with the dealer on my '06. So if all is needed is a tune up, I can do that myself with the parts of my choice.
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2007 Camry LE. This morning while driving, she noticed a shuddering that scared her. She called me and parked the car as soon as she could. I went to drive it around and, as she had said, it was shuddering.
I drove it for a bit, neighborhood and highways, and took note of everything. The RPMs were low - About 500. I'm not sure where it usually idles, I rarely drive this car, but my Jetta idles around 900 so this seems strange to me. RPM gauge occasionally bounces around at idle. Once the car gets moving there are no issues. Only at complete stop. It feels like the car is about to stall.
I drive a manual and if I keep it in gear while approaching a stop it makes the same shuddering because the RPMs are too low for the selected gear. This is what it reminds me of.
Here is a video of what's going on under the hood. As you can see, the airbox is vibrating heavily. That's the most obvious place. The engine and intake manifold are also bouncing around, but it's hard to see in the iPhone video.
Video ... ... ...
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2007 Sonata V6 with 72K miles.
The car has developed a rough idle while in gear (i.e. when stopped at a stop light) and park (i.e. after I start the car).
It's starting to get a little annoying since I'm used to a very smooth idle.
I think this issue started within the last 2-3k miles.
Plugs were allegedly changed at 30k. A full tuneup was done at that time.
Wires are still original.
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I've made posts about a rough idle before now I noticed something new about it. I noticed when I approach a red light the vibrations don't start immediately. They start as soon as the RPMS would drop a little. They stay above 500 but it seems like it's below 750. As if the engine is slightly starved from power? Now i'm wondering if it could be related to another problem I have.
Whenever I start the car, the battery light flickers until the car is started all the way. This is on a 2007 Camry 4 cylinder. So far everything iv'e done is: New NGK Spark Plugs, NEW OEM mounts (all 4) Seafoamed the engine, Seafoamed the throttle body, cleaned the MAF sensor, New air filter, and cleaned the air filter box, replaced the PCV Vlave, new belt, new alternator (duralast), and a new battery (from autozone).
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Yesterday my mom used my car and the battery light came on while driving, but she didn't really care about it and was driving the whole time on the battery. When she came back home the car was barely even alive I couldn't even start it. I replaced the alternator (duralast from auto zone) and the serpentine belt, but now I have a very rough idle and the rpm's are lower than usual. They are 1500 instead of 1750. Is this normal and eventually it'll go away or did I mess something up?
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I have a 06 sonata 3.3L v6. I have been having misfire problems and lack of power under 2000 rpms and at idle when I am either a stop or just warming the car. What is happening I feel it shake and feel the misfire but after it gets up after 2000 rpm at highway speeds its completely fine. It struggles getting up to speed if i press on the accelerator. I have changed the spark plugs and all the ignition coils maybe about 2 months ago, I have also have changed the camshaft position sensor for the rear bank. I believe that it could be the crankshaft position sensor but I want to make sure....
Obd2 codes: p300,301, 303, p0012, p0011, p0014,
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I have a freshly built C6 in my F100. Vacuum line is new and not leaking. Idle RPM's are 800 in Park. Manifold vacuum is 16" in Park at idle and 14" in Drive at idle. I run a 2500 stall converter and a Hughes shift improver kit. The tranny is a '67 truck unit.
When slowing down at an intersection to make a turn; the tranny doesn't shift down. I make the turn and always pull away in Drive. The tranny does not shift down until about 5mph or less.
The tranny is now at a second shop and the tail housing has been pulled at least 4-5 times to check the governor. An early 70's valve body was even tried and yes; it will fit. Is this normal behavior for a C6? My Cruisomatic did the same thing.
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An injector stuck open on my 05 5.4 and bent a rod. I had a new rod put in and all new revised Motorccraft injectors. This was about a month ago. Truck has ran great for the past 3 weeks until today I put it in park and it idles real rough, put it in gear and it smooth as butter again? (Once in a rare while it will continue to idle rough in gear for a few seconds but then clears up.) New motorcraft plugs were put in right before it bent the rod. The truck runs real strong other wise. I am about done with ford this pickup has been the biggest pile I've ever owned one thing after another and just when I think its fixed its some other stupid problem. I'll start by cleaning the maf and throttle body. Could it be a bad coil?
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Not sure if this is normal so I've found that my car is idling very low in rpm's and feels like the car is shivering along with me! (hint: its really cold here) I took a very short video [URL] ....
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My golf 2.0 vw isn't doing so good right now. It has 227000 miles on it. It has been driving great, and then last week it started to idle rough. It idles between 600-800 rpms. it fluctuates between 600-800 rpms. It had the check engine light on before this happened i was told by my brother that it was an 02 sensor. I had it checked for what is causing the engine light to come on today at o Rileys, and it came up with 11 codes. Some of the codes where 02 sensors, it was running to rich, needed a new computer, evaps system, fuel pump, fuses, coil pack, spark plugs, It shakes when you sit in it when it is idling like not a bad shake but a small one you cal feel, l'm including a video of it running.
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what would cause a pulsating rough idle when in park with the defrost or a/c on? when I turn it off or to any other position it's fine even when I turn if off it's fine as well? there is no Check Engine Light showing at this point.
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My truck has a similar rough idle and I decided to investigate. What my plug gap was supposed to be as I didn't have access to my owners manual at the time. The specs I was given (.041-.047) is what I followed and recapped my plugs .045. The idle improved a great deal.
Now I was wondering and finally got around to checking my owners manual after I read somewhere that the gap for the 5.0 changed between 12 and 13 model years. What I found in my owners manual is that the gap I'm supposed to have is from .049-.053. My plugs were out anyway at .057. I will leave them be at .045 but am wondering why the change from .041-.047 on the 2011 model years to .049-.053 on the 2012+ model years? I assume the engine hasn't changed, so am curious of the thought process.
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The problems seems to be getting progressively worse, it has a rough idle and when it smooths out is only at about 600 rpms and still sounds strange. Also, I am running extremely rich, blows flames quite often and in OCMD I went 100 miles on a half tank. Car is stage 1 unitonic with sai and evap deleted. I changed the maf and that didn't change anything. I was searching for vacuum leaks yesterday and noticed that one of the vacuum caps I have on the bottom of the intake manifold was dried out so I took it off so i could put my finger over it and see if it ran better, when the cap was off it ran great but when I put my finger over it it would go back to an awful idle Now when I come to a stop it will sometimes drop the rpm so low that it shuts off, when I am driving you can't tell a difference.
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Rough idle whenever you are not in motion. It is very obvious, and a little frustrating as my previous 5 cars never had this issue. I love the car, but the vibration is driving me a little crazy. When the car is in park, and you lean on the outside of the car it is also vibrating heavily. I hate to have them start taking things apart when there is less then a 1000 miles on the clock.
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2007 Ranger 4.0l, idles rough at low rpm, in park or drive, with or without the AC on.
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After the engine is warmed, my normal idle in drive, park, neutral, or reverse is around 650-700 RPMs.
I have recently noticed that when a combination of conditions occur, my idle hovers around 450-500 RPMs and is pretty rough. This low, rough idle occurs when:
1) The car is in drive;
2) The car is at a full stop (foot on the brake or auto-brake hold);
3) All accessories are off (heated seats are off, radio is off, headlights are off); and
4) HVAC is Off.
I went to the dealer and they ran diagnostics. No error codes were recorded. The dealer looked at other ls460s and said they all do that. By the way, I noticed this after my VSR was done.
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Have a jazz blue chipped tuned with giac.. It does this random times.. When I come to a red light on idle the rpms go up and down just a bet but never stalls. The car vibrates and the engine shakes a bit. Engine is stable when car is on and off. Idk if its motor mounts or what?
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1997 Subaru SVX (Alcyone) LSi, 3.3L H6 engine.
My SVX was driven from Denver to Las Vegas, NV and it developed an odd habit where the RPMs would start to oscillate while on cruise control. I had to disengage the cruise control to get the oscillations to stop. Three days later I was driving the SVX to work and the RPMs started oscillating at idle and the car started running rough and it died.
These things have all been replaced with OEM grade parts: Spark plugs, electric fuel pump & strainer & fuel filter, Mass Air Flow sensor, new air filter and fuses.
The car starts up fine but after a few seconds the RPMs begin to oscillate. Then the car tries to recover, the idle becomes rough, and the the RPMs drop very low and the engine shuts off.
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I have a 2001 Ford Escape, and when I start it for the first time of the day, it idles really rough, and way below 500RPMs (to the point where it almost stalls). After about 10 minutes, when the car is all warmed up, it runs smoothly, as if there was nothing wrong with it. The only conclusion I can draw is that it is temperature related, but I can't figure out exactly what is causing the issue. This happens on the driest or wettest of days, so moisture doesn't seem to be an issue.
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It just started last week, only when in drive, checked vac lines, good ignition system including new plugs, its very annoying the steering wheel even shakes, what to look into, the rpm at idle is around 500. 1.8T
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We have a 1997 Saturn. For the past few months, whenever we're at a stoplight it suddenly fluctuates in RPMs, giving it a rough idle (going from 1000 down to 500 or so for a second or two, before coming back up to normal). It appears to be temperature sensitive (i.e. the longer the car runs or the hotter the outside temp, the more often this occurs). I sprayed the throttle body connection and vacuum connections to attempt to find a potential vacuum leak, with no effect. We've already had the transmission replaced, and haven't been having any other idle issues besides this. What else might be causing it.
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