I just put in a new water pump and timing belt on an 06 Camry with the 3.3L V6. After I was done the TCS light turned on and I don't know why. The light was never on before and the car is running very smooth.
View 2 RepliesSerpentine belt on a 2006 Honda Odyssey fraying and then ripping into the timing belt causing that belt to break? I recently had this scenario given to me as the cause of my recently replaced timing belt breaking.
View 11 RepliesI recently changed the timing belt on my 2001 Avalon. I am now getting a P1351 code. I removed the timing belt covers and checked the marks, and everything lines up perfectly. I have checked this twice now. To give a little background, before I changed the timing belt, I was getting P0300, P0301, P0303 and P0305 codes along with a P1349. Upon looking up the codes, P0300 indicates a misfire on multiple cylinders, with P0301, P0303 and P0305 indicating misfires on cylinders 1, 3 and 5. The P1349 indicates a variable valve timing issue on bank 1 (cylinders 1, 3 and 5).
I had already changed all 6 coil packs and fuel injectors and spark plugs within the last year (iridium plugs), so I pretty much ruled out any of those. And since the valve timing code was on the same bank as the misfires, I figured that was the cause of the misfires. The oil level was fine, and it hadn't been all that long since I had changed oil. So the next possibility was the solenoid. I changed both of them. Since it was due for the timing belt, I decided to go ahead and change that too. Now, the P0300, P0301, P0303, 0305 and P1349 codes are gone. But after a day or two, the P1351 shows up. As I mentioned earlier, I took the timing belt covers off and checked the belt and alignment marks. All was perfect. I cleared the code. Within a few minutes of driving the code comes back. I checked the belt alignment again. Not loose, and marks line up perfectly. The car runs smooth as can be. I do notice that there is valve clatter on Bank 2. It sounds kind of like a diesel. But it is running smooth. It is also interesting that the original valve timing problem was on Bank 1, but the valve timing problem now is Bank 2. I have only driven it a few miles since the belt change. That's all it took for the code to come up.
I have a 91 Camry and have just replaced the timing belt and water pump. I thought I did everything right. I made sure the Crankshaft Pulley was aligned to TDC and I turned the Cams to the right marks. I turned the crank by hand numerous times and everything lined up.
I lowered the motor back on to the mounts but didn't connect all the belts to the alternator and compressor. I just wanted to see if it would fire up. Well nothing happened, it turns over but won't start. I pulled some of the plugs and they are bone dry. Sprayed some starter fluid into the throttle body and still nothing. When I turn the key to Accs. Shouldn't I hear the fuel pump wind up? I can't remember but I don't hear a thing.
So my dilemma is, did I screw up the cam/crank alignment and just don't realize it? Like I said all the marks line up fine. Do I need to put everything back together i.e. the Cruise Actuator, Power Steering reservoir, and all belts before I can start it up? It seemed to me I would at least get a hint off life without putting everything back. Then again, I'm not mechanic.
2002 Toyota Solara SLE v6 w/ 209k miles
Drove the car home from church yesterday, this morning went to start and wouldn't start..
Tested the Fuel Pump and that looks good.. Pulled a spark plug and did a spark test and I get no spark.
After reading up I get the sense it is either the Crank Angle Sensor or the Timing Belt snapped .. I don't know the last time the timing belt was changed, we got the vehicle @ 190k miles..
Does a no spark symptom sound like a timing belt that could have snapped? I believe these are non-interference engines so it should be ok..
When turning the car over the RPM gauges doesn't look like it is moving but wanted to see for a complete spark failure.
I have a 2005 Toyota Camry with 120K miles that was bought used with 110K. The previous owner did not have the vehicle long and did not know if or when the timing belt had been replaced. I have read several blogs that recommend replacing the timing belt at 60 or 90K. To err on the conservative side I decided just to do it at 120K. Now my problem. Before the timing belt change there was a slight knocking from one of the cylinders. After the belt change the knocking is more pronounced. Q. How concerned should I be that the knocking is more noticeable? Could this be a by-product of the new belt and as it loosens the knocking will subside somewhat? OR, am I looking at valve job or worse?
View 8 RepliesI am deep into replacing the timing belt on my 08 Elantra 2.0, and am nervous about taking the tensioner off since it is not obvious how to set it. I could use a fool proof explanation on how to set the tensioner.
The Haynes manual talks about 1/4 deflection but that seems too imprecise.
I can not see the marks in the video : DIY 2008 Elantra timing belt video 2 of 2 - YouTube
And this post 2008 Elantra Timing Belt does not quite seem to explain. I am contemplating putting it all back together, just changing the accessory belts and handing it to a shop. I could use a fool proof explanation on how to set the tensioner.
Rebuilt a motor due to the timing belt failing. Everything works except I can't get the timing to line up perfectly.
From what I'm getting from the service manual, line the camshaft sprocket with the mark visible from the hole
Line up the crankshaft gear with the yellow mark at the bottom.
Do I have to do a double/triple turn of the cam/cranks to get TDC to be achieved properly? My biggest problem on this car is having the crank gear shift a couple teeth after tensioning the belt.
It is a Camry 2005 3L 1MZ-FE engine, 100K KM on the clock. In the cold mornings, I hear noise from the timing belt area for about 3-4 minutes then the noise reduced. But I can still hear some noise all the time. From what I read, it appears that the hydraulic tensioner (tensioner idler pulley, NTN 13540-20030) is bad. Plus, I can feel that the car does not take off as fast as another older Camry with timing belt replaced (everything else is good with this Camry 2005)
My questions are:
1. Is it possible that only the tensioner is bad, not the timing belt to make the noise or both of them need to be bad?
2. If it is the case that only the tensioner is bad, is it possible to replace the tensioner only without changing the belt and other part (I mean without removing the crank pulley and other parts)? I don’t want to replace everything if I don’t have to.
How to change the timing belt and water pump on a 2006 2.0t passat?
View 3 RepliesI have a 2009 Elantra (automatic) that already has 52K miles on it. I drive a lot mostly at highway speeds. I know several people who recommend having the timing belt replaced BEFORE the warranty runs out at 60K miles.
The dealership has a 60K inspection where they "inspect" the timing belt (plus a whole lot of "fluff" checks, tire rotation etc) I'd rather just take it in and get it replaced. What should a timing belt replacement cost?
My girls family has had an 08 elantra 2.0 new since 2008 and I've been doing the work. I recently did the timing belt ( July) with beck arnley oem parts. 65000 miles. I replaced belt, idler, and tensioner.
Right after I did it there was a mild hum at idle. It somewhat did this before the belt so I assumed it was just the new belt in plus the very mild hum it already had.
Recently it is humming very loud and high Pitched. It gets louder with higher rpm. If I take the cover of and move the needle on the tensioner while it's running it quiets down a little but it's an auto tensioner and doesn't stay right where it needs to be AND even when it is at the ideal spot it still hums.
The timing belt broke in my gf's '08 accent recently and I decided to have a crack at replacing the belt after getting a quote for $900 from the nearest mechanic (with no guarantee it would fix the problem).
When re-aligning the cam and crank to TDC, I wasn't sure if it mattered which revolution the crank was on (ie. 1st or 2nd revolution) when putting everything back together. I tested rotating the engine with the new belt on slowly to make sure there was no contact and everything seemed ok.
So basically now everything is back together, tried starting it up and it won't start and now i'm wondering if it would make a difference or not if the crank was rotated 1 additional revolution. Otherwise there is more significant damage.
My car has 103000 miles on it and the timing belt was replaced several hundred miles ago. After the service I noticed it had a bit of a rough idle and a very slight sputtering noise, but still no check engine light. Was the timing belt put on wrong? The engine is non-interference, by the way.
View 1 RepliesIn the process of rebuilding a 2007 Accent where the timing belt broke while idling.
Pulled the head, ran a "water test" on the valves (put spark plug in, pour water on the valves and see if it comes out the exhaust/intake side) and found that only 2 intake valves were belt. Also shut off all the lights in a pitch black room, shined a flashlight in the intake/exhaust and didn't see any light leak from any of the cylinders except the one with the 2 bent valves.
Does this make sense? I would assume since 2 cylinders are always TDC at once, at least 4 valves would be bent.
Lastly, before rebuild I'll be replacing the 2 intake valves, all the valve stem seals, intake manifold gasket, exhaust manifold gasket, head gasket, head bolts and valve cover gasket. Anything else I should replace on the head? Trying to keep costs down as much as possible.
To add: Pistons have no damage on them, there are no marks of the valves hitting the pistons. The timing belt was replaced after it broke and the engine still ran however it ran rough. Compression test was done on only cylinder 1&2, 1 had 60 PSI and 2 had 0 PSI. Compression test was also done by just rotating the crank with a socket since I already had some of the engine disassembled.
I have a 2007 Accent with 119K on it.
I wanted to replace the water pump and I was wondering if this can be replaced without removing the timing belt or the lower timing belt cover?
The timing belt went out at idle while making a turn. I changed the timing belt, but when cranked you have to pump the gas to keep it running and it is really rough running with a smell of gas when you turn it off. On the last run it backfired slightly. There is no knocking or pinging. And have triple checked the timing. Could improper torque on the crankshaft bolt cause this or failed ignition coils?
View 21 RepliesI was thinking about checking out the above vehicle at my local dealer (Chevrolet). They're asking 15.9k and it has 57k miles. I need to know if it has a timing belt or a timing chain and how reliable is the engine/transmission.
View 1 RepliesI have a GX470 and just had the timing belt replaced. Now my "airbag light" stays on all the time.
View 12 Replies2008 Hyundai Elantra, 2.0 it. We replaced a bad water pump, and timing belt while we were there. I followed directions found on multiple websites. We spun the crank shaft to the top dead center mark on the crank sprocket/engine block, and the cam sprocket / assignment mark. Then removed tensioner, and belt. Installed new belt and ensured alignment marks had not moved. Applied pressure to tensioner and tightened. Reassembled everything else. Car started with no problems, drive for about twenty minutes started making clicking sound from under the hood, we turned around to come back home and the car still making clicking sounds gradually started to loose power and speed until the engine stalled and would not restart. Trying to find out what could have happened.
View 2 Replies2001 volvo s40. Diagnostics performed. Error codes for the timing belt and temperature sensor. These were replaced. The check engine light still comes on/stays on.
View 6 Replies