I have a 2005 Camry and it was stalling while driving occasionally. It had gotten worse, so I cleaned the throttle body as was suggested. Now, when I try to start it, the engine revs really high then goes back down and dies. This is without putting any pressure on the accelerator. What to do next?
View 1 RepliesWhen I start my '05 Camry (4 cyl - SE) it revs up to 2K, though only briefly. I don't like to go over 1,000 rpm until it's warmed up. Toyota dealer says that's normal ... Would it hurt to try it with the cold start (water temp) sensor unplugged ?........
View 2 RepliesI have a 2005 GTI 1.8T with 203K miles, stock except for a MagnaFlow exhaust. My problem arose about a month ago. When I accelerate aggressively and shift from 4th gear to fifth at about 4K RPMs the engine will jump up to 5K RPMs. Happens while shifting from any gear when accelerating hard.
When I push down on the clutch and take my foot off the gas, I get a jump in RPMs. It's kind of like the boost in the turbo is not getting released. I replaced the stock diverter valve with a Forge DV with the splitter. Had no effect on my problem, but now I have that cool sound when I get off the gas.
Could this be the waste gate on the turbo not opening and releasing the boost when I get off the gas? I'm not very familiar with the intricacies of the Turbo functions and the diverter valve.
My hybrid has been a great car, owned 3 years. Now have problem: runs great but if going higher speed 65 and pulls hill needing to kick in to 4000rpms it dies right away says high temp engine but does not smell hot or need water. Let it sit for 15 minutes (even though will start right away but might keep dying unless sits). Will run fine unless hits higher rpms then dies again. 2005 Ford Escape Hybrid...
View 5 RepliesRecently got my oil change and doing the oil consumption test at the same time. Just put like 200 miles since but this past few days engine stalls. What could be the problem? Already check battery terminals. Could be the battery dying. Its 2009 camry.....
View 1 RepliesI was driving my sport trac when it suddenly died on me. We are leaning toward the fuel pump. But is there any other causes for fuel to not get to the engine? We changed the fuel filter out already...
View 4 RepliesA minor but persistent (year-long) rough idle on my 1991 240 has quickly turned into a Cold Start Nightmare over the past month:
SITTING HOURS OVERNIGHT (50 to 60-degree temp. overnight) - When I attempt to start in the morning, the engine idles high for 3-5 seconds and then immediately dies. To successfully start, I must keep pressing the accelerator pedal at least half-way down for 2-3 minutes. The engine sputters, almost backfires, shakes, lopes, almost dies, etc. After 2-3 minutes, everything runs just fine.
WARM ENGINE SITTING - Once the engine is warmed up, it will consistently start without problems. Still a slightly rough idle, but OK. The car does not die.
I have changed the battery, coolant temp. sensor, and spark plug wires.
Yesterday while driving to work the acceleration on my car just died; the engine was running and the car was in drive. I lost power steering and all the dash lights came on. I was driving down the road about 55mph and it just died, but the engine stayed on. What could cause this problem?
2011 Toyota Camry LE ...
I have a 1998 gmc sierra 2500 truck when i start it it runs just fine but after i have driven it awhile when i go to stop as soon as i come to a stop the engine revs up and down and it dies it will not do it if i am in neutral or the engine is cold, what could be causing that....
View 7 RepliesHow to go about fixing my 1987 AMC eagle. I recently just purchased the service manual and am trying to figure out what I should repair first. I noticed a few weeks ago my car wouldn't idle in the cold.After bringing it to the shop multiple times it still does not run right. In fact, it seems to have gotten worse and has even died while going around 45 mph. Once it does die I find it very difficult to start. I have noticed some bad smells while trying to start it again sometimes gas..sometimes almost a burning rubber smell. (The belts are still in tact) Once it starts again it acts much like it had gotten flooded.
The motor seems to be fine and sounds good when running at proper temp. Recently, it will even die when the engine is all warmed up.Often when I get back in the car after driving it (while engine is still warm) I can turn it over almost instantaneously it doesn't necessarily sound good though. I noticed before all of this began that it would putter when going down a steep hill (or letting off of gas). Do I need to rebuild the carburetor ? Could it be as simple as a bad pcv valve? I have already put in 600+ into fixing this and no results. I am pretty convinced it some sort of fuel issue. I am also concerned the choke might be sticking and needs adjusting.
I brought it into the shop and they tightened the timing belt and secured some loose battery cables. They also said I needed to replace the battery which I then did. This did nothing to improve the how well my car ran. I brought it back and they replaced the distributor cap and adjusted the timing which apparently was way off. This did improve the performance of the vehicle but did not stop it from dying.
I just picked up my new 2014 Chevrolet Camaro with the V6 and 6 speed manual transmission. If I just punch the gas pedal when in neutral, the engine almost dies for just a second but then rev's up normally. It seems like a burst of gas chocks out the engine. I have tried the same thing in other Camaro's and the engine rev's up normally as soon as you punch the gas pedal.
View 13 RepliesI just bought a 2011 accent 5 spd ... Quick question, when I drive it at highways speeds. (65mph) I notice that i am running around 3500 revs. Is that normal? It seems a little high to me. Every other 4 banger I had never ran that high in 5th gear at 65 mph.
View 5 RepliesLike the title says my truck has been stalling while driving. Accelerating or cruising it dies for a second, two at the most, and then just keeps chugging along again.
I thought i'd fixed the problem last year when I did injector O-rings and 50 cented my UVCH. It hadn't done it since, until two days ago. Started out with a two good solid stalls while gently accelerating up hill. I had thought maybe my fuel pickup foot had finely given up the ghost because I was below a quarter tank. But I filled her up full, and then she did it again about 50 miles of driving later.
I didn't catch the first four stalls on my torque app, because I'd just recently decided to stop logging every trip, with the thinking that it had been half a year problem free, why keep logging waiting for something that isn't going to happen. I did catch the 5th stall on the torque log. But I'm having trouble trying to figure out where it happened in a 30 min log.
First question where would yall start in tracking this thing down? Next what data actually should be logged? I think I've got some extra stuff in my logs that isn't necessary, and is maybe bogging down the system. I get one data point per second resolution on my logs. Are there ways to improve the resolution, will getting rid of some PIDs work?
Lastly I need to attack this thing smartly, without throwing time and money at unneeded parts. I had surgery and I've been out of work for 3 months and I'm looking at another 6 before I'm making money again, and there is no unemployment for the self employed. Also I only get 3-4 light weight upright hours a day to work, exceed that and I'm back on the couch battling swelling for a week.
Also is there anything I can do while driving to "flag" the stalls so I can find them more easily in the logs?
So I have a 95 Legacy sedan, FWD. It's been a kind of problematic car, and the engine was replaced about 5 years ago (I assume with an old unit, but I'm not sure though because though I was in the family I wasn't driving it then). But, it's held up and has continued to be at least roadworthy. But recently, it's developed an issue where the engine will just randomly die while I'm on the road. All/most of the dash indicator lights come on, but if I shift it into neutral and turn the key, it'll come right back up. Occasionally it'll die again almost immediately, but usually it'll be fine for at least a while. And anecdotally, It seems to happen more frequently at lower revs such as idling at a red light (though will occasionally happen while I'm moving), and when the engine is cold - generally once I've driven around for a while, it's not a problem anymore.
View 3 RepliesMy GF drives a '05 Camry V6 with 82k miles on it. Just the other night, out of no where my GF's car starts to have this high pitch whining coming from the engine.
I was about 20ft. away when she started the car and from there it sounded like the power steering was out of fluid.. made the exact same sound (any guy worth his whit knows the sound). After I opened the hood I realized it wasn't the PS. After a little trouble shooting the noise seems to be coming from the left side... thought it could be a belt at first, but after playing around I swear it's coming from the heater core/AC lines.
I can feel the vibration in them and when I was pinching them together and putting pressure on them sometimes the noise would lessen or completely go away. I had my GF rev the engine and one time (when I was holding the lines) the noise was completely gone for a few minutes.
I can't pinpoint the exact place the noise is coming from... but after googling it it seems that most of the time strange noises are coming from that area it's either the water pump bearing, alternator or TB.
I took a video, but you can't really hear the noise cause it's a crappy cell video.... but the noise is really loud.
I posted awhile back about my R not wanting to start. It will start, just not turn over right away, but it will start the first time. However, it feels like it's going to stall out because the revs don't climb very high at all (1k at best) when it usually goes just over 1k to start, then drops down to 5-600rpms.
Yesterday, after it sat in the hot sun for nearly 3 hours, it cranked but didn't start right away. It had started right up when I left my house to go to the gym, and I drove it 5 miles to the gym.
Then again, this morning, after it had been sitting outside all night, I went to start it and it just didn't sound right when it started, like maybe fuel wasn't getting to the engine.
The car has 31,500 miles on it, has had all recalls done, and the battery checked out last month. The battery was fine, so it's not the problem. I have been doing some research on this issue, and have come up with the following things to have the dealer check:
-fuel pump
-fuel pump relay
-coil packs
-crank position sensor
-fuel pump fuse
-fuel filter
-injectors
-alternator
-starter motor
-crank angle sensor
-cam sensor
-check all grounds
-check fuses
And to top it off, I just drove it down the road and the sunroof randomly opened on its own. I have never had that happen before! Do you think the two are related at all? I'm just wanting to make sure what to tell the dealer when I drop it off later this afternoon. I ran a vag-com scan last night and there were no electrical or engine fault codes found, so I don't know what is up with it.
I just bought this 2001 Mercury Grand Marquis with 87k on it. It runs and idles smoothly, good gas mileage, no sign of trouble--except a cold start. It actually starts fine, but when I shift into drive the engine dies. If its 0, it just dies. If I idle it a minute or two, it will do OK. At 20 degrees, it slows like its going to die, but then recovers. Once I have it running in drive (or reverse) it behaves completely normally. Since this thing is presumably computer controlled with no adjustments, I am puzzled. The only clue is that this was an estate-probated car, and probably sat around for 6 months or so. I had no clue on purchase--probably because the seller warmed it up before I got there to try it out.
View 9 RepliesI have recently done a battery disconnect hoping the issue was a glitch in the ecu/tcu as this has solved some clunkiness in my old audi. But the issue is till there.
I also went ahead and did a fluid change of the transmission at the dealer.
The issue is intermittent and the rpms just rev up slightly only on the 3rd and 4th transition and like I mentioned it is an intermittent issue.
I have read something about adjusting bands to the transmission? Is this solution applicable to the 05 solara v6 tranny? The old transmission fluid was pink and not black or burnt.
I bought this car and I've changed out the Clutch Position Sensor, the black one on the clutch mount. Started to work and start but now it's doing the same symptoms as before. So here is what is going on.
1. Randomly doesn't start, full power comes on, and fuel system turns on, immobilizer works just fine as far as I can tell (key light turns off)
2. Cruise control doesn't work (which lead me to the CPS)
3. High revs between shift, once I push the clutch to shift it revs up high, I noticed that if I stay under 3k it doesn't do it as much, but if I go HAM on it it revs up about 1k rpm more than at shift point. But if I shift nice it revs about 2-400 rpm.
It's been tuned by C2 Motorsports, done by a certified mechanic, that's the only mod on the car, besides suspension. I bought the car and dropped 1100 to fix it to drive right, newish throttle body, and a major vacuum hose, and the tune within a month of getting the car and the tune was to mainly flash the ecu so it wouldn't pull two codes for a leak that wasn't there anymore.
2003 Escape Limited V6 Auto 4x4 ... I am having issues with poor fuel milage and starting the SUV...
When i go to start the truck it winds over for abit then starts and revs really high?!?!? I did a complete tuneup, plugs, filter, fuel filter, oil and filter... I changed the fuel pump which has the fuel regulator built into it. I have no codes on the dash. Also if i am at a red light and i put it to the floor I MEAN TO THE FLOOR!!! the truck bogs then drives off NO POWER!!!
Im stumped! I dont know what to do and dont want to keep replacing expensive parts... fuel pump, etc...
I have 95 ranger 3.0L revs up over 2000rpm at startup then comes down slowly to a little over 1000... Changed the IAC valve still does it... When I let it warm up I unplug the IAC and idles normal and smooth about 750 RPM so I don't think it's a vac leak... What else could it be???
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