Camry :: 2005 Dying In The Middle Of Traffic - Faulty Engine Computer?
May 27, 2014
I brought this 2005 Camry last March of 2013. It has an faulty engine computer rendering vehicle inoperable and useless. It died in the middle of traffic not too long ago, and I almost was t-boned. Then it died in the middle of the turn lane and I had to restart it three times to get it to a repair shop where they reflashed the engine computer. Now today, May 25th, it did it again! Right after I pulled out of my driveway it died on the road. I was not on Highway 94 otherwise I would have been rear-ended.
I believe there is a TSB on a faulty engine computer for the 2005 to 2006 Toyota Camry and it should be covered under emissions warranty and this is a serious safety issue, I almost had my car smashed up the first time! Until this problem is fixed, I wouldn't feel comfortable taking it out on a roadtrip. Right now I have a 9 grand paperweight in my driveway, and in fact my 1996 F-150 has been much more reliable than this Camry. I don't want this to drag on for a week, if its not covered under emissons warranty/by Toyota, I will just order a used engine computer and install it.
I am going to order a engine computer and see if the problem goes away. When it died the second time, I had to restart three or four times to get back to my driveway where I left car.
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I have 2010 Toyota Camry, whose battery was replaced about 2 months ago. The oil was changed about a month ago also. Two days ago i was driving out of my gyms parking garage and 5 minutes into the drive my car completely shut off in the middle of traffic. It happened as soon as i hung up the phone while talking to my husband on a car speaker system. The car would not turn on, my dashboard looked like a rainbow with all the warning lights on, the windows worked, there was no sound coming from the car even when i tried to turn it on. I called AAA to have a wrecker move my car from the middle of traffic, and they stated there were no available wreckers, that i would have to wait 2 hours...so finally push the car into a drive way. So about 20 minutes pass by while I am waiting for my husband, and all the sudden I am able to turn my car on. I drove my car all the way home with my husband behind me ( 30 minute drive) with no problems. I still haven't had a problem but now I am paranoid that it might happen again.
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I only drive my 2007 Kia Sedona about once a week. (No,I'm not a little old lady, but I do have cats). Anyway, I keep having to replace my battery. Kia tells me the computer is draining the battery and I need to run the car at least 30 minutes a week. Sounds fishy to me. But if that's true, is there a way to keep it charged? I've considered a trickle charger, but I'm disabled and am concerned about being able to disconnect and connect it.
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I've got a 99 4runner with the 3.4 engine and it's gotten to where it wants to stall in traffic. It starts right back up. Runs fine on the interstate. No check engine light. I've changed the fuel filter, cleaned the throttle body, and cleaned the MAF sensor. Not sure what to do next.
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Yesterday in the pouring rain the low pressure tire gauge in my 2014 Sonata lit up in the middle of traffic. I drove to the nearest gas station and checked the pressure of all 4 tires, even though the diagram on the dashboard pointed to only one tire. Filled and checked all the tires again (still in the pouring rain) and drove off, only to find that the low pressure light was still on.
I was told by a mechanic-friend that I should bring it in for service and have the sensor reset. I didn't have this problem with my 2011 Elantra. Maybe if I just kick the dashboard it will reset the sensor...
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After an oil change I noticed my lower engine cover hanging loose in the middle. Much searching has not found the part number. Underbody engine shield fasteners. Any quick reference for these? 2009 Camry 4 cyl XLE.
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I had a previous post regarding this when it started, but it seems to have now changed. Twice this morning, both while idling still in traffic, my engine stalled. Turning the key it starts right back up and runs fine. I'm hoping that it doesn't morf into stalling at speed.
Originally this happened 2-3 times a couple of months ago. It would die and then catch itself and keep running. Again, each time while idling in traffic. Once or twice it also seemed as though it was ignoring the throttle request for just a second, then took right off.
Two things come to mind, and OBTW, no codes thrown ever. What do you think about throttle position sensor or gas pedal issues! I'm wondering if it's losing track of throttle position and taking it to a low level and a stall?
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The middle a/c is not working and to clarify my front top display is out (I took down the display and the little chips appear to need to be re-seated or soldered) so I don't know if that is playing into the whole scheme.
Right now the front a/c works, rear back works on floor, but the middle does not blow at all. I have read several posts the mention a TMX(not sure if that is it)? also mention are flapper doors (?) directional doors(?).
Had the EGR delete done (and because mine is an 05 my engine light stays on - yeah) and the SCT computer and oil cooler are next. Also replaced all the injectors and performance has greatly improved.
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My van (Mazda MPV 2005) has been sputtering while driving for a while. Now I am dying at redlights when trying to accelerate after I have driven longer than a quick trip. I have had 4 mechanics work on my van and all of them, in the end, shrug their shoulders and tell me that they don't know what the problem is.
The first thing (seemed unrelated at the time) was a PCV hose replaced along with 2 coils.
A few months later the engine light came on (now it stays on) and the code reads P2179 (Fuel system too lean at off idle [left bank]) So then, the Idle Air Control Valve was replaced. I had the third mechanic replace the Air Mass Meter Boot and 2 days later the problem came back. He checked the MAF sensor which was good and he gave it back and told me he didn't know what it could be. Lastly, I took it to a dealership and they thought it was the Lower Intake Manifold Gasket, which got replaced. They also checked the O2 sensor, it is good. Within a couple of days I noticed the problem was still there. I also had a friend who is a mechanic pull out the fuel pump and it was in working order.
To top it all off, I now hear an odd "boing boing boing" coming from underneath my van when I have driven the van for a while and park.
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I thought this strange occurrence I am about to describe was maybe happening because of a faulty air-fuel oxygen sensor, that I knew was bad do to a code test that was done, when my check engine light came on. However, after changing the air-fuel oxygen sensor, doing a reset on my check engine light over the weekend, this same occurrence is happening, to spite the check engine light remaining off. Here is what is happening.
When I start and drive it to normal driving temperature then put the car in "Park" with nothing turned on, the car will shake the idle speed will move up and down until it will eventually kill.
Special Note: It does not always have a idle drop and kill the engine every time. If I turn the A/C on in "Park" it idles up higher and does not ever kill. Could it be a bad Idle Air Control Motor?
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My sons 05 F150 is randomly dying during low idle. We removed and cleaned the TB and cleaned the MF sensor. For example, if he is coming up to a stop or slowing down, the truck will die, but starts right back up. So far no CEL and truck seems to idle and run fine, just ever so often will die.
Anything to check on the 5.4s
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I posted recently because my '05 Touareg had been in twice for a "coolant overheating" error when the car was driven less than three minutes after a long cold start. They replaced the main computer and I had it back for a week and everything was fine. This morning, the same error occured. We took it in. When my husband drove it to the dealer, the warning went away after several minutes. They said that the error never logged on the computer and there's nothing wrong.
One person had responded last time with the sensor issue but got it resolved. I am really concerned about the possible problem that they can't seem to fix. They seem to be ok with it.
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So my 02 Camry le keeps dying after I start it up, I thought it was a battery/alternator problem but when I installed both of em in the problem was still there. There was no check engine light on and as long as I keep my foot on the throttle and not let it idle down low it stays on but if I don't it dies right away. I'm getting really tired of trying to figure it out so a buddy of mine said it could be a bad TPS sensor.
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Trying to figure out whether to fix or scrap our 2005 Prius with 193,000 miles and a mysterious 12V battery problem. What would you do in my situation?
We've had a recurring problem with the 12V accessory battery: I have replaced it myself three times. The last failure was the most mysterious, because after replacing the 12V battery for the third time, I conducted nearly daily voltage tests using the Prius' "secret" vehicle signal check. Voltage coming off of the 12V was normal, if not high the entire time in all of the Prius's various starting and ready modes. I wired up a solar panel to trickle-charge the 12V battery when we weren't around, and we plugged the 12V in at night to a trickle charger to keep the battery topped up.
Nonetheless the day came a few months after the latest replacement when we had our usual 12V failure symptoms: the time on the clock started resetting, the car didn't turn on on the first press, the Prius computer rebooted, and eventually the car wouldn't start without a jump start. This has been super-frustrating, and googling around, I haven't been impressed by people's reported experiences trying to have the dealer try to resolve such problems. My worry is that a dealer repair person will change the accessory 12V battery without fixing the underlying problem. I would suspect a parasitic draw somewhere, but voltage tests when the car was overnighted without any kind of charging did not suggest a serious voltage draw on the 12V battery.
Other details about the car: our keyless entry hasn't worked for several years (dead batteries in the key fob?) and we open the car manually using the key each time. We stick the fob in the slot each time we want to start it. MPG is comparatively low vs. other Priuses, perhaps 44-45 MPG, and lower when the 12V battery starts to die (37-40). I have had the car serviced (oil, etc.) like clockwork every three months; recently, I've noticed the engine is starting to burn oil a bit (level is reported low on each change).
Most of the driving has been done in the flats and the heat of California's Central Valley, and we've put something like 120,000 miles on it just in the last five years. Besides the fact that the 12V battery keeps dying, the car has been very reliable.
We just inherited a free Prius with just 60,000 miles on it, and I have a 1993 Camry with 150k miles on the chassis and maybe 60k miles on the replacement engine I had dropped into it a few years ago. The Camry just passed California's smog test and seems to be running well. We don't want or need three cars.
Our choice is to try to fix the Prius with 193k miles on it and donate the Camry (which gets about 20 miles to the gallon, the horror...), or keep the Camry and donate the Prius. My instinct is to not drop thousands of dollars into the high-mileage Prius, especially if these issues might be pointing to a dying main battery.
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My 02 camry recently started dying at a stop and would not idle above 1000 rpm. I cleaned the throttle body(very dirty) and the car started right up idling at about 1500-2000 rpm i walked away for a minute and came by to drive it and no acceleration would come as well as when i start it up now it just goes back to idle at about 500 rpm.
I am not sure what the problem may be, my air filter box is not on properly I am going back to the car to tighten it down today but i highly doubt it will fix anything. I also read something about the computer needing reset, if i go and unhook the batter for 30 min and hook it back up will the computer reset and possibly fix my acceleration problem?
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My 2003 Camry LE is normally parked in our garage in Southern California so we have no problems. We have gone a few times to Utah, Arizona and other areas in So. Calif when it was very cold and had our alarm go off in the middle of the night. We turn it off and then it keep going off until we start driving it. Dealer doesn't want to disconnect alarm.
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It appears that I have a small tran. fluid leak. Local Toyota dealer quoted me a reasonably low amount (300 or so) to fix.
My mechanic however, disagrees and says that this is a major work as the leak appears to come from the read gasket right in the middle of the entire tranny. He said the tans. need to come out and apart.
The leak is minor. It was first spotted at least a month ago and I never had to add fluid. Currently its right on the hot mark when measured after driving.
I would like to believe that my mechanic is somehow wrong. I never had to deal with a transmission leak that requires such a major effort to fix (I am talking pos old GM, Honda, etc). It just sounds odd (but then I never had a leaky rack and pinion either except in this Camry).
It would be very frustrating having to drop another grand into this car. The mileage is less than 90.000 miles. Its an automatic 2005 4 cyl.
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When backing out of the garage, it started with a slipping or tires feeling like they were grabbing the concrete. Then came hesitation and/or jumping at traffic lights. This seemed to improve but then a whoop, whoop helicopter noise which seemed to get louder during acceleration. The repair shop has diagnosed it "internal transmission problem". Is this common? Any estimate on cost to repair?
The transmission did seem to make a noise and possibly slip when going over speed bumps. This appeared to be addressed under warranty. Current mileage is about 130k.
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Recently bought a used 2002 Camry LE. Ran fine the first couple days I had it, however the first day I tried driving to work in the morning(how poetic), it stalled and died in the middle of the highway when I slowed down.
The first tips I had were to clean the throttle body and/or clean the mass airflow sensor. I did both of these things and the car will actually drive and not stall when stopping now, but the idle is horrendously low still. On a cold start the idle will sit at about 1000-1100 RPM. However, when it's been on long enough to be warm/hot the idle will drop to about 300-400(ish) when sitting in park, and about 600 when in drive sitting at a stop. Took it to a shop and they had no idea why it's so low and suggested I start by replacing the mass airflow sensor to see if the sensor is just going bad.
Planning on replacing the sensor regardless as soon as possible but just gathering any information I can.
When I'm accelerating slowly, my gas pedal vibrates when the car is about to shift up. Just a very subtle vibration but noticeable by anyone driving it. Happens just a second or two before it shifts up then goes away after the shift, then again when it shifts up, etc. It doesn't happen if I'm accelerating quickly though. Say when I'm going to get on the highway. Only when it's a slower speed up like in town between traffic lights or something. I was told this could possibly be a transmission issue? Is there anyway to check for sure or should I just have a transmission shop look at it?
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I'm posting as a last ditch effort to try and rescue my 2001 Vw golf here's some quick details about the car then I'll go into the situation.
2001 Golf 1.8t 5speed
Euro customs stage 2 Aftermarket intake and downpipe
Still have front and rear O2 sensor and probably cat. Maybe..
Otherwise stock
201k miles
Okay so pretty much here's the rundown.. I was driving my car to work one day, then all the sudden lost complete throttle response to my car but was about to cruise at about 5-8mph to get to work and avoid towing. What is going on besides the EPC light was on and CEL was on. After work I discovered that the rear O2 sensor was hanging down and frayed.
Apparently from what I was told, that fries your ecu and put the car into a similar mode as mine. I then replaced the ecu with the euro customs ecu, I replaced the throttle pedal, and the throttle body since all I was getting was throttle codes. I am still not able to get rid of either EPC or CEL lights. The codes showing are p0638 and p2101. Yes I have tried to get the throttle body realigned or whatever you call it. However the vag com will not let you realign with the codes still in the computer which have been deleted but come back immediately.
The rear O2 is still unplugged and I still have little to no throttle response.
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I have a 2000 Staturn LW2 auto, 6cyl. When I try to turn on the car, sometimes the engine does not turn, doesn't make a sound, nothing. When I move the steering wheel, it turns on fine, it has to be in a certain position. Does that mean, the ignition switch is faulty or is it the pin? Is there a test I can do?
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