I bought a 2005 Camry 4cyl yesterday and realized today that the check engine light was not coming on when turning the ignition on. I put my dtc tool on the car and got these codes. Getting P0300 ,P0303, p0304 & p0012 . Not sure where to start looking.
View 4 RepliesI have a BMW 740I that has over 200,000 miles on the clock, I have noticed in the past couple of day that the check engine light when I turn on the ignition that it flashes then becomes still, what the problem could be, and if it is safe to drive?
View 9 RepliesWas trying to change my reverse light on my 12 camry. I wanted to make sure the bulbs were working before I put everything back together. I put on the emergency brake put the car in the on position and put the car in reverse. Went to check the bulbs and nothing. Put the old bulbs in, nothing. Started the ignition and noticed that the the check engine light was on and also the P, R, N or D was not showing in the display. Let the car sit for a while and still the the same thing. What happened. All other lights work fine.
View 1 Replies2002 F350 7.3 PSD. 192k miles.
From my understanding, a CEL is supposed to illuminate each time you turn the ignition ON as part of normal startup procedure.
I figured the previous owner must have pulled out the bulb to hide the fact that the truck had a few "issues" before selling it, so today I pulled out the gauge cluster and it looked as if the CEL bulb was a tiny LED soldered directly into the gauge cluster itself. There were a few serviceable/removable bulbs for things like turn signal indicators, high-beam etc... but the CEL did not have a serviceable/removable bulb.
I've been driving this truck and working through it's "issues" and fixing things as I go, but it keeps throwing codes without the CEL illuminating. What's going on here?
I thought the check-engine-light was supposed to illuminate each time the ignition was turned on, and that it would come on each and every time the vehicle registered a fault code in the ECU/PCM.
I bought a 2005 Volvo V70 with 75,500 miles on Nov. 13. On Nov. 15, the check engine light went on, and I returned to the dealership for a solenoid replacement. The check engine light went on again on Nov. 17, oil pan replaced. On Nov. 19, the light went on again, timing belt replaced. On Nov. 22, the light went on again. Each time the code was the same--sometimes in conjunction with other codes--but one code was consistent. We returned the car on Nov. 22 and asked for a refund in keeping with the Massachusetts lemon law (an attempt at repair 3+ times). The dealer refused, saying the check engine light and computer code were not the same as an attempted repair. He took the car and said he was going to call Volvo Tech in. However, he says the light "went off" and never came back on even though his staff has test driven it 170 miles in the past three days. He's "releasing our car" to us, even though he has made no repair. Tell me--is trying to address the same computer code considered a "repair"?
View 13 RepliesI have a 2002 4 cylinder Camry, and I've been having trouble with the EVAP test completing. I've been running the EVAP test to the letter, with no success, so I figure the problem might be dependent on something else not completing.
I used to get the occasional check engine light for loose gas cap. So a few days ago I intentionally left the gas cap VERY loose (it's essentially just sitting in the filler nozzle). But I'm not getting the check engine light. I think that the gas tank pressure test may not be running, and that may be why I can't get the EVAP test to complete successfully.
Conditions: The gas level is about 1/2 full, and the ambient temperature has been around 20-35 degrees F.
I'm having a hard time searching. Most search results deal with how to resolve the loose gas cap problem. The check engine light is not burned out... it comes on briefly when I start the car!
I have a 2005 Ford Escape 3.0L V6. The emission systems/check engine light keeps coming on. I have taken it to 4 different places and the diagnostic keeps referring to the MAP Sensor. It has been replaced twice (granted one was free) and the light is still on. I have also replaced a coil, the plugs and boots.
View 1 RepliesMy 2005 Camry check engine light is on. The trouble code is P0138, bank 1 sensor 2 oxygen sensor. Engine is the 2AF-ZE. Not a California emission car. Car is Japan built. It has two O2 sensors. What is the correct OEM part #? I believe it would be a Denso?
View 2 RepliesI've noticed that the car has started to give me all the dummy messages, particlarly "CHECK 4WD" when I turn the ignition on without the engine running. If I then hold the brake pedal and start the engine, the message remains. If I turn the ignition off, and then start normally with the brake pedal depressed and start the engine it goes all normally and "CHECK OK" and I never get any errors when driving. I also noticed when this happens the AFS light is flashing as well - well, basically every warning on the dash is lit.
So, what's up with that ... I know it's normal for all the dash lights to light when the ignition is on and engine is off but I never noticed CHECK 4WD in this state previously. I haven't really noticed if it happens every time but it seems to happen quite a bit when I just turn the ignition back on to do something like close the moonroof if I forgot it. It's also odd that it doesn't clear when starting the car without first turning ignition off after that.
I assume that nothing is actually broken because it all behaves normally when starting the car regularly and the car does not complain at all when driving around.
I have 06 XLS with 56,000 miles and about 3 weeks ago the check engine and VSC lights came on. It was fixed, a ignition coil on the 4 cylinder.
Now driving home today the check engine and VSC lights are on again! I was wondering should try to get the dealer to replace all the remaining ignition coils ?
Plus I read their was some type of manufacturer defect on the original ignition coils from the factory. Why Toyota won't recognize this issue ?
Two ignition coils in a little over a month . My first Toyota and I'm rolling with the punches .
I have a 2005 SE 3.3L engine with 115000Miles,
When you turn the ignition key , you have to wait for it to crank 6-7 times before it starts. whether engine is cold or warm it makes no difference.
I was wondering how your engines ( 3.3Ls) behave, does that start immediately after 1-2 cranks, or it is normal for this type of engines to take 6-7 turns ?
'99 Passat GLS - 79,000 miles - no mods ... Solid Check Engine Light was on for about 2 weeks...last time it was on, it was a fuel cap issue so I took my time with it. Well, all of the sudden on 4/14/03, on my way to work, (less than 5 minutes after starting the car) the car starts to ride hard (like going over grated pavement)...check engine light starts to blink! I pulled over. Eventually the light went back to solid.
Tonight (on 4th ignition sequence since picking up the car this AM) - the solid Check Engine Light came on again.
I had a friend who went through this with a 2000 Passat GLS - different dealer claimed it was the MAF, then the O2 sensors, then....she eventually took it to carmax to unload it.
The check engine light on my 1997 Integra (LS, 119K miles) has come on for the second time. Including background below.
Incident #1: Carin mid-June, the car sputtered or shook a bit when starting and the check engine light came on.The car had been sitting in the garage only about a day. Codes were P0303 (Cyl 3), 0304 (Cyl 4), P1399 (multiple misfire), P1300 (random Cyl misfiring). The p0303 code set at 1600 rpm & at 75F degrees. Misfire code set during warm-up. The shop performed block test (came negative). Compression tests show 1, 2, 4 at 200 psi & 3 at 190 psi. The shop replaced spark plugs & inspected plug wires & connectors as well. Valve clearance adjustments also were done. The shop cleared the engine light code.
Incident #2: Last week (early Aug), the car again sputtered & shook when trying to start (had been sitting in the garage for about 2.5 days). Showed signs of low or dead battery but started after cranking a few times. The check engine light came on again. Codes (checked at home using the jump method) indicate Cyl 1 & 3 misfire.
Will be taking to the shop for the diagnosis again but wondering if it is battery or ignition related; shop doesn't suspect the battery, however, I do sense that the battery 'feels' weak esp. when starting. New battery put in May. What could be going on?
I have a 2008 Kia Rio, 4 Cyl 1.6L, and recently the check engine light came on and the car started running real rough after getting the timing belt replaced at firestone. I took it back to Firestone and they said that 2 of the cylinders where misfiring and i need to replace the ignition coils and the corresponding spark plugs, but that i also want to get a catalytic converter cleaning or flush or something like that because of the unburnt gas that was running into the converter. Is this true? They want to charge me another 100.00 for the cleaning on top of the 300.00 to replace the 2 ignition coils and spark plugs, should i get this done or can i clean it out myself?
View 6 RepliesThe check engine light is on in my 1996 Honda Civic. The code for it is P1382, which is supposed to be either a misfire or the ignition control system. It runs fine most of the time, but intermittently cuts out while I am driving sometimes. I have replaced the spark plugs and fuel filter and the check engine light actually went off after replacing the fuel filter, but came back on the second time I drove the car. The distributer was replaced not quite a year ago with a reman distributor.
View 2 RepliesI have a '96 Honda Civic DX model, manual transmission. I replaced the battery, sparkplugs, distributor last summer. Yesterday, hottest day yet this spring, my car wouldn't start. When cranked, the lights came on the dash, the fuel line was running, the check engine light blinked, but then no ignition. Left it overnight, started up fine this morning. Took it to a shop,Mechanic said battery and alternator were good and a replaced starter later, I took it home. Driving home, the idle dropped way too low (no tach) and almost stalled the car (battery light came on) when I pushed in the clutch. Now when I turn it on, it starts, idles regular, then the idle drops again.
View 3 RepliesI have a 2002 Toyota camry and for the last few or so, the check battery light has been coming on and off. it stays on for a day and then goes off for a day or so. I have had my mechanic check the battery, the alternator and he couldn't find anything wrong with either of them. the alternator is working good, the battery tested at 730cca and 13.5volts. what is wrong and is it safe to keep driving this car?
View 10 RepliesFriday, May 13 I brought my car to the shop because the Check Engine light came on and the engine started loosing power. $540 later they had replaced both O2 sensors. A day later the light was back on. Brought the car back on Monday and they replaced one of the sensors that was defective according to them. One day later the light was back on. Brought the car back on Wednesday and they replaced the sensor again, telling me the brand was not compatible with my car. One day later night the light came back on. Brought the car back in Friday May 20 in the morning and they have my car since. They can't figure out whats wrong. A week before all that happed I had an oil leak and they replaced the oil filter and a seal. Could that be it?
View 2 Replies2005 Camry LE 4 cylinder, 141K miles.
For 6 months the battery light has been coming on intermittently, sometimes not coming on for two to three days and then does it again every so often during the fourth day and so on. Until recently, it's gone a record 6 days without coming on.
However, today it's stayed on all day. Usually, when it does come on, it will go back in in a minute or two. I'd gotten used to it, since the car has always started like nothing is wrong. However, tonight the ABS light came on with the battery light, then the Safety Bag light came on. Then, the radio died, clicking, static, then just dim light, The clock dimmed when the headlights were on, and the headlights weren't as bright as they should be. Stopped the car in a parking lot. Wouldn't not start again, but the dash would come on.
Got a jump and the car started up fine, but there wasn't enough power getting to anything to make the car do much of anything. The car didn't seem to have enough power to send to the transmission to shift, pressing the brake pedal made the dash go black.
Sat a while, got the car to start again, with a fight. Enough power to shift getting to the transmission, but quickly all the lights started coming on one by one again, and none of the lights were bright as they should be. Back to square one.
Just the battery? Replaced the alternator a year ago, when it killed the last battery. The current battery is a year to 13 months old.
While I am driving the car it will start to die and skip. Happens randomly. Today I was driving up a small hill and it went quits on me started lurching with check engine light coming on and off. The car will turn over and start, but only for a few seconds before dying again.
Seems to happen when the car is running for a while. Also the ABS light flashes on then off randomly while driving sometimes although It hasn't been an issue. Will be checking tomorrow to see if it starts.
My check engine light has been on for 3 days i get my appointment with VW and then today i start it up and it goes off. Also, having a problem with very loud squeaking coming from the front bottom left of the engine ?
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