Camry :: 2005 XLE V6 Engine Jerkiness Over 55MPH
Apr 18, 2014
My 2005 Camry XLE 3.0 V6 is exhibiting engine jerkiness over 55MPH. The OBD II reader shows a group of codes:
0300 Random/Multiple Cylinder Misfire
0301 Cylinder 1 Misfire detected
0303 Cylinder 3 Misfire detected
0171 System Too Lean Bank 1
2195 Sensor Signal Stuck Lean bank 1 sensor 1
From what I can find in the forum I cant quite tell whether I should be looking at bad gas, overfill of oil, vacuum leak or bad O2 sensor (the expensive one before the cat).
Changing the gas or checking the oil is easy enough. where would one look for the vacuum leak that would cause this type of problem? Is getting the O2 sensor out of the upper bank as much of a beast as it sounds in some of the threads (better left to a "real" mechanic?).
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Yesterday while driving to work the acceleration on my car just died; the engine was running and the car was in drive. I lost power steering and all the dash lights came on. I was driving down the road about 55mph and it just died, but the engine stayed on. What could cause this problem?
2011 Toyota Camry LE ...
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I just purchased a 2008 Toyota Yaris. The car is excellent with only one exception. When above 55mph, I hear a pulsing noise - a constant evenly spaced noise similar to an engine that is lightly revving on and off. If I take my foot off the gas, it goes away. Press again while I'm above 55mph, and it pulses again. I have no loss of acceleration, no bucking, and the rpm gauge is steady as she goes. It is an automatic. No noises or anything under 55mph. I'm perplexed.
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Vitals - 2004 Ford 350 Diesel 6.0L, Approx 80k miles. Purchased a year ago, driven approx 8k over the year, not a daily driver but typically taken on at least two 45 mile drives (highway, country, and urban roads) once a week but often more and also used for long trips. Truck has had regular maintenance and no issues.
Symptoms: After loading mulch (by hand so it wasn't much weight), truck drove fine for 25 miles. After restart (got coffee and donuts), truck was fine through town but accelerating from 25mph to 55mph engine noise was louder and sharper. noise persisted when engine was above approx 1500rpms. After a period of time driving over 65mph, noise stopped and engine behaved normally. Even with the noise, engine never seemed to lose power.
Since that time(one week), about 50% of starts have resulted in the noise with no clear pattern of hot vs cold starts. Even after starts where the noise occurs, if the engine is pushed to 70mph sometimes the noise stops and it not present for the rest of the drive even at those lower rpms where the noise was previously present. I don't know if the noise would happen in park with a revved engine without going into drive but if I shift to neutral while the noise is occurring, it persists. Noise is definitely not related to vehicle speed but rather engine speed because going downhill if gas is taken off, the noise is not present regardless of speed.
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Started my car yesterday and as I was accelerating, it made a very loud noise. It sounds like normal engine acceleration noise, only ten times louder. It was present whenever I accelerated, but not when I was coasting or idling, and not when the car was in neutral. (It's a stick shift.) During acceleration, there was a little hesitation and a little jerkiness, but not horrible. The problem came on suddenly - no problems with the car before yesterday.
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Have driven Hondas for 25+ years and used to their appliance like Smoothness and reliability. Yesterday bought my first VW ever, the last 2010 Passat ( a sedan) in my dealer's inventory.
I immediately noticed that while coming to a stop for the final few seconds there is a jerkiness and shudder that I feel. Feels like the way a manual transmission car feels when you forgot to depress the clutch and you're stopping. Once I come to a complete stop all is fine again.
Is it "normal" for the passat or vw in general?
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Carefully modulating the brake in this car to offset any jerkiness caused by the DSG riding the gears down eventually became second nature to me and I am pretty good at keeping things nice and smooth. As of late however, my brakes are all over the place and it's driving me insane. If the person ahead of me stops short pulling up to a light and I need to follow suit, my brakes will often BITE hard resulting in a not so subtle jolt. Other times I don't get nearly as much stopping power as I think I should given how much force I'm putting on the pedal and I really have to bury it at the last minute. Not sure if these are a factor of the DSG downshifting at just the wrong moment or what, but it's gotten a bit unnerving.
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My 2004 Treg has 24,000 miles on it and though I still LOVE it, it has been in and out of the dealer for inconsistent power issues. Off and on there is a noticeable delayed response from when you engage the gas and when the vehicle responds. Not to mention the transmission feels very jerky and rough as well. I have heard numerous reasons for this, but this week I got a new reason! The VW dealership says that now it could be that my air filter is dirty and needs to be replaced! They said if the new air filter does not fix the problems that I will need a whole new computer system!! Does this make any sense?
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Had my 09 Tiguan now for 3 months and I'm noticing that during cold weather in the mornings as I try to accelerate or keep a constant speed/rom there is a jerkiness/stutter to the vehicle. It doesn't seem smooth if I go I faster then it's not really felt.
This is felt right around 60km/hr.. Or slower.
Doing some research appears that this could be the fuel injectors - those were just done at the dealer under recall about 7montha ago or so by the PO. The Tiguan has 147k KM on it.
What could be a possible cause for this? I also see that seafoam could clean the carbon build up perhaps?
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I have a problem with my 2005 Camry (bought recently - 186000 KM) , the check engine light is on again, I had this problem before but all I did was just tighten the gas cap and the light went of , but this time it wont go off, I reset the battery and tighten the gas cap but nothing happened the light still ON !
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2005 camry 3.0, engine would not go above idle, check engine light on, vsc light and trac off light. codes, 2122 pedal position sensor circuit, 121 throttle position sensor, 505 idle air control, 2111 throttle actuator control valve stuck open, 2121 pedal position sensor. After checking online found many people who have had the throttle bodies fail, removed intake hoses and with the key on engine off actuator throttle. throttle valve did not open but could hear the amperage increase to the motor as the pedal was pushed further.
Replaced throttle body with a used one and checked operation. valve open fully and smoothly. cleared faults, vehicle was fine for approx. two weeks, then the same thing happened. replaced throttle body again with a used one and vehicle was fine for a day. Now the same occurrence. Checked fuses, wiring and connectors and all seem okay. Pedal position sensor fail? What is the likelihood of this happening? Is the throttle body once again suspect?
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How to raise the engine on a 2005 4 cyl Camry. Off hand I am thinking that the 3 motor mounts need to be disconnected. What else would need to be disconnected? I do have an engine hoist that I can use - .
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Since I've owned the car, which i got in December of 2013, the engine light has been on and off. The previous owner, who drove it off the lot in 2004, was a family member who took it to a mechanic multiple times. Multiple mechanics said it was the gas cap. I replaced the gas cap back in February 2014. The engine light still comes on and occasionally goes off.
Here's some information I've gathered driving the car since then
Straight highway mileage tops out at 28 MPG. Only city/town driving yields about 19/20 mpg, so the gas mileage is okay
Last weekend, I drove around on maine roads for the whole weekend, spending about 90% of the driving time doing 50+ on roads. The engine light successfully went off and stayed off for the longest period of time since i've owned the car.
The rust situation on the car is extremely minor, except for some rusted fittings. Frame rust and general surface rust is non existant except on certain pieces that can be replaced (struts, tie rods, ect) However, there is one piece that looks shitty, which is the spacer between the exhaust header out of the engine and the engine block.
The code the car puts out is either a catalytic system failure or catalytic system operating below threshold. There is a new catalytic converter in the last 3 years, so I highly doubt that's at fault (not to mention the engine light manages to stay off for the yearly inspection and it passes emissions no problem).
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My 2005 Toyota Camry has developed this rattling noise that is always there when the engine is on. When the engine is at higher RPMs, it becomes more noticeable. Here is a quick video I took of the noise for the audio of it..
It was too dark for me to check tonight to see if there is low oil or anything (there are no lights lit up on the dash).
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1. 1 month before I change my car battery.
2. Last night, after coming from Office i.e., around 50 KM drive. I witched off the car and had my dinner, let say after a gap of at least 3 hrs, I try to restart my car again but I could not. Even I can notice that the battery is not discharged as all lights are functioning properly & even center lock is working fine.
3. Then I use another car for jump start then the immediate car started. After driving for another 25 km, I switched off the car & try to restart again but I failed.
4. Today, after a gap of almost 15 hrs, again I tried to start the car then immediately it got started without showing any difficulties.
5. Again after driving around 20 km, again I switched off the car & try to restart then its not restarting.
I am confused, what could be the problem. Sometimes, it starting when the engine is cold & sometimes it's not starting when the engine is hot.
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I recently bought a 2013 gx and noticed a few things.
1. At high speeds 50+ mph the car downshifts quite often during rapid deceleration.
2. When coming to a near stop but not completely, and accelerate moderately to fast, lot of times there is a jerkiness when stepping on pedal initially. Is this normal or could it be something with the differential gearbox?
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The problem starts after about 5-10 mins of start up and normal driving. First signs usually come leaving a stop light or stop sign. Hesitation, jerkiness, rough acceleration. It's usually slight, just enough to feel it. Soon it really shows up while keeping the truck at a steady speed, say 40 for example.
I finally heard what I would describe as a puffing air sound and figured vacuum leak.. finally! Nope.. it's coming from the rear underneath of the vehicle. I can't hear it in the engine, or the tail pipe.
2002 Ford Explorer xls 4.0 125k miles, I've replaced the air filter, egr valve, pcv valve, cleaned the maf and covered about every hose I can reach with carb cleaner checking for a vacuum leak. I've yet to try some of the other things due to hearing that puffing sound.
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I drive a 2005 Camry SE. In the mornings, when I start it up for the first time, my engine almost...growls. That's the only word I can think of. Not even growl. But instead of purring like a kitten, it purrs like a tiger . And it's only when I first back it out and then take off. Once it's good and warmed up, it drives and sounds perfectly. Shifts beautifully.
And this morning, I let it warm up for awhile and it didn't make any noise when I took off.
I talked to my coworker about it and she said she had a similar issue with her 2004 Saturn Vue and it was something about a manifold, but couldn't remember what it was called. And she said her mechanic was able to fix it, but only temporarily and then told her it would cost her big bucks to fix it permanently.
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I just bought a Camry 05 v4. it has 79k mileage. I hear some noises from engine area; what is this annoying noise coming from?
Here is my recorded video.....
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Noise comes from area of engine by belts and sounds like it might be a bearing. Thought it might just be because this is a timing chain engine. Engine well maintained. Any common issues with these? Difficult to check due to all the moving parts in that area. Read somewhere that water pumps go on these regularly. Not leaking any coolant but I guess it could be the bearing. It is just very difficult to isolate where the noise is coming from.
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I just bought an 05' SE V6, with the 3.3 engine. Seemed to run good, had it checked by shop and they said it was a good buy, so i bought it. First day I owned it, took it to toyota dealership and had them do a 90, 000 mi service. did a timing belt, water pump, tranny flush, oil change. I got the car back, and it ran like crap! It would stumble on hard acceleration, and seem to even surge a bit at times. I took it right back? Service rep tried to say I put in diesel or bad gas. I only filled up with chevron premium, which is only gas i ever use. I know how to put gas in my tank!
Any how, they checked timing belt and said it was right, but the timing gear needed to be changed because one tooth looked rounded off. That didn't work either, still stumbled on acceleration, but idled perfect @ 675 rpms. So now the serv. manager gets involved, says he wants me satisfied. they then drained all my gas, then re-fill it. then flushed out all injectors. then put in all new plugs and PCV valve. I did a pressure test of fuel system, said it was good. While they were changing the plugs, they did a complete 6 cylinder compression test and scope analysis, and it came back good, too! I pick it up cause i got to go back. It ran a lot better but still stumbles on hard acceleration on highway. drove 1250 miles back, didn't use a drop of oil.
I did notice when I got 100 miles the temp gauge dropped all the way down to second mark on cold for a little bit, but went back to normal temp and stayed there through the last 1100 miles(that scared me, so i watched temp gauge like a hawk). And the outside temp was @ 62 degrees when the temp dropped at 1200 ft. Elevation...maybe it got stuck and is ok? My CEL has never came on through all this, and it does work, I have made sure of that.
I bought this car from original owner, and they had engine and heads just replaced in 2008 at 44,000 miles at toyota dealership under warranty fot 10,000 dollars. i verified this with that dealership 3 times with 3 different reps at that dealership. old owner said he was having problems with engine stumbling, and took it in twice and dealership said it was ok each time, not throwing any codes and sent him away saying car was ok.
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