Camry :: 2005 XLE 3.0 - No Throttle / Engine Would Not Go Above Idle
Apr 17, 2015
2005 camry 3.0, engine would not go above idle, check engine light on, vsc light and trac off light. codes, 2122 pedal position sensor circuit, 121 throttle position sensor, 505 idle air control, 2111 throttle actuator control valve stuck open, 2121 pedal position sensor. After checking online found many people who have had the throttle bodies fail, removed intake hoses and with the key on engine off actuator throttle. throttle valve did not open but could hear the amperage increase to the motor as the pedal was pushed further.
Replaced throttle body with a used one and checked operation. valve open fully and smoothly. cleared faults, vehicle was fine for approx. two weeks, then the same thing happened. replaced throttle body again with a used one and vehicle was fine for a day. Now the same occurrence. Checked fuses, wiring and connectors and all seem okay. Pedal position sensor fail? What is the likelihood of this happening? Is the throttle body once again suspect?
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I have a 2005 F350 diesel, 54000 miles. I was at a red light today, engine is idling normaly.. light turns green and I step on the throttle and get nothing. My truck is rolling (in drive) as if it were in nuetral. I shut the engine off and it does not start for 10 to 15 min. Then it fires up and seems to be running as if nothing happened.
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Recently I have been experiencing some rough and low idles with my 1MZ-FE 05' Camry. The car runs idles perfectly fine and drops to the correct idle when cold, however if the engine has been running at normal temperature and started again soon after the idle drops extremely low until the throttle is opened.
I have cleaned the throttle body with with throttle body cleaner a number of times, although I haven't taken the IAC valve out and cleaned it separately. I have also heard that the Engine Coolant Temp valve may be going bad. Could my symptoms fit this?
I had a dodgy EGR sensor not long ago that was giving me rough idles on a cold start, however I managed to mitigate that problem a by cleaning simply removing the sensor and giving it a quick clean. I don't think that this is the cause but I can't be sure.
I haven't had the spark plugs or fuel filter changed in a while although I'm unsure that these would be the problem if the idle was rough and low only when the engine was warm.
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The other day I disconnected battery, then removed and cleaned the throttle body. Now cold-start idle is high, and erratic,
goes to 1,600, drops to 1,000
- back to 1600, drops, up to 1,400
-- wavers there, and then finally,
starts to taper down to steady idle of about 650-700 rpm.
Since battery disconnected, does not seem there would be a chance for TB to "un-synch" with cars computer.
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I have a 2004 V6 LE with about 135k miles. I cleaned the throttle body two weeks ago, just because I hadn't ever done it. It wasn't too dirty. Before the cleaning, it idled at < 1k revs. Now, when I start the engine cold, it revs at around 1500, sometimes higher. It goes back to normal after the engine warms up to operating temperature.
Also, I hear a very slight high-pitched whining (maybe hissing?) noise when I accelerate. The noise is more prominent when the engine is cold. I checked for vacuum leaks but couldn't find any.
It feels like I'm depressing the gas pedal a little bit when I have it in drive or reverse, and it wants to pull harder than usual. When I bring the car to a stop with light brake pressure, as it drops into first gear, the car gives a slight tug forward, again, as if the gas pedal is depressed. I mention this to show that it's not just an issue with the rpm at startup.
I suspect that the issue lies with the throttle position sensor, which I may have jostled when I moved the throttle valve. The method I used when cleaning was, I first tried opening the valve by hand with the ignition off, but the resistance was much higher than I had anticipated. So I did the key-in method by turning the ignition to ON and putting a brick on the gas pedal. There was a high-pitched whine coming from somewhere in the engine bay when the key was ON, which I had not noticed before; I wonder if that is normal.
This seems to be a rather common issue after cleaning the throttle body cleaning, but there doesn't seem to be any consensus solution besides to wait it out.
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2002 Camry XLE.
I cleaned my throttle body today. Since the throttle plate moves by a motor, in order to keep it open, I turned the key to ON and held the gas pedal down by using some weight.
After I put everything back, the idle was high 2000+, then stays at 1300 to 1400 range. I drove about 10 miles and it is still the same. When stopped at a light in drive, the idle is still 1000
Did I mess up the e-throttle or the throttle position sensor? (Since I used a weight to hold the gas pedal down, I am worried now).
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2002 V6 Camry 145,000 miles, cleaned throttle body with TBC fluid, now starts runs for a few seconds and dies. In order to open the butterfly in cleaning I turned ign on and propped pedal down. After cleaning the car ran better but idle was high and a little erratic. I disconnected the neg batt for several hours, now it starts, but dies right away. In the cleaning process I had removed the throttle control sensor an reinstalled it. Can't keep it running long enough to adjust it.
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I recently cleaned the throttle body and now it surges up and down. Not really sure what to check next. 2002 toyota camry 4 cyl.
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I have a 2009 Camry which has the well known very bad vibration at idle when in drive at a light. My Ultragauge shows the RPM are very low when it vibrates. Sometimes it drops to around 425-450 rpm when at a stop light in drive (automatic car). Then it sometimes moves up to around 625-675 rpm and that is when the vibration completely disappears and it is nice and smooth. This issue is intermittent but happens everyday.
Most people think it is due to a bad engine mount and spend money doing that and get no results.
I have done a lot of research and feel it is due to a dirty throttle body and IAC valve and want to test my theory. I will post results once I do the job. What is the easiest and most thorough way to clean both?
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I just locked out the cam phasers on a 2005 f150 with a 5.4. It now idles pretty rough. If I blip the throttle the revs will rise and then drop again, and it barely catches in time to prevent a stall. If I continue to tease it this way I can usually get it to stall. I'm getting no CELs or anything, but I intermittently will get a P035x code (it seemed to rove. I've gotten cylinder 1, 4, 6, but not consistently.). I have chased those around by swapping coils, checking/cleaning the connectors, etc.
I am kind of thinking that these codes are a symptom of my idle issues, and not the actual problem. What could I have done wrong? Could it be a vac issue? I had basically the entire ECU harness and all the vac lines disconnected to do the job, but as far as I can tell everything has been reconnected to the correct locations. I did have an SCT tune done to remove the phasers in the ECU. I installed it and still have the issue, so for now I am on the stock tune just to eliminate any variables.
Could my tune be the issue? Is this how you would expect the engine to behave with locked out phasers and no corresponding ECU tune?
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Last weekend I drove 200 miles non-stop. 4 times the throttle died on me, the engine returned to idle and the throttle pedal wouldn't do anything for 3-4 seconds. Then the car acted like everything was fine. No CEL, ABS, or traction lights. Scanned the car, NO CODES. This happened to my GTI 24V VR6 couple months before I sold it. VR6 issue?!? Checked VCDS and the engine has NO misfires whatsoever.
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I have a toyota yaris d4d (2002). My engine light comes on, I lose power on throttle but engine will still idle. I turn engine off for a few minutes, then restart, I then carry on driving as normal as if nothing has happened. This happens every 2 weeks. Error code is p1121(accelerator pedal position sensor range/performance problem). How to rectify it ...
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We've owned this 2002 Mazda Tribute v6 for six years. Recently, the car has become somewhat dangerous to drive. While driving down the road at any speed, releasing the throttle does not result in the engine decelerating or returning to idle. Instead, it continues to hold the speed steady for 3-5 seconds before the RPMs drop. At lower speeds (~5mph or so) the car will even accelerate a bit, which can be a problem in tight parking situations. At higher speeds (e.g. on the freeway) releasing the throttle has no effect for a few seconds (ie it does not decelerate), which can be very surprising if you're responding to suddenly slowing traffic. The brakes can, of course, overpower the engine, but you do have to push harder to get the same braking effect as if you were not fighting against the engine. Releasing the throttle and shifting into neutral while driving causes the engine to rev quite high (3,000rpm) for the same 3-5 seconds before dropping to a steady idle, but it does allow you to brake normally. Shifting back into Drive while in motion but not touching the throttle causes the engine to decelerate the car normally. Touch the gas even briefly, though, and the engine will once again surge.
Oh, and turning the steering wheel from side to side, as you might do while parking, also causes the engine to surge, though not as much as it does when I touch the gas pedal. Also, I've disconnected the throttle and cruise control cables and worked the throttle plate by hand. Doing so causes the RPM to rise, as you expect, but it does not immediately return to idle when the throttle plate snaps shut. Instead, the RPMs stay around 12~1500 for 3-5 seconds before it drops to idle.
Over the years, I've replaced the throttle position sensor, idle air control valve, and other normal maintenance items. I used a meter to troubleshoot the IAC and TPS and used propane to look for vacuum leaks, but everything is within spec. There are recall notices related to unintended acceleration for these vehicles, but those are reportedly caused by interference between the engine cover and cruise control. I do my own maintenance and don't like engine covers, so I removed the cover from this car shortly after buying it; the engine cover cannot be causing this problem. I have disconnected the battery for an hour to reset the computer, but that has no effect. There are no trouble codes that show up on a OBD-II scanner, and the CEL is not illuminated. There are many internet reports of this problem, but thus far I've found none that indicate a solution.
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Those of you w/the "sport exhaust" on later 04's and 05's, at 80- MPH ... I get an engine exhaust resonance that varies with throttle. On throttle bad whine, off throttle no issue. Go 75 it's ok. Go 85 it's ok. My dealer hasn't heard of this. Not sure what can be done but on a long trip the drone will drive you nuts.
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I've tried searching everywhere, but can't seem to find the torque for the 4 bolts holding the throttle body to the plastic intake. This is on a 2az-fe engine in my 2004 camry. I imagine the torque would be the same for any Scion, RAV4, etc. that has the same engine.
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I installed my i-throttle but I might have done some steps wrong don't remember exactly but now my check engine light is on.I throttle works fine. Is there a way to fix this and make the check engine go.
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This truck isn't mine but it's an 05 F250 automatic. We just did oil cooler, STC, standpipes, dummy plugs, EGR delete, and cleaned the turbo. Truck starts perfectly and runs great 99% of the time. But after a high load throttle situation right when you let off the throttle the engine sounds and feels like it cuts out for a split second, then it comes back and everything is fine. It does it with stock tunes but it is more noticeable with his SCT tunes loaded. There are no codes being set. The weird thing is if your drive it relatively easily it never does it, and it never does it while it is actually under high load, at WOT it pulls like crazy until you let off a bit and then it happens.. It also doesn't do it every time but it is fairly often. It has edge insight with fuel pressure monitoring added, ICP doesn't drop out and neither does fuel pressure. What could cause it to do that?
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I have a 2005 f-150 street boss with 79000 mile, and it is shooting off going down the road, and the check engine light is flashing. The first time I started it back up and it would idle fine, but the throttle wouldn't do any thing. After setting about 15 min. I started it up and it ran good. I checked the codes and it had a p2104 Throttle actuator control system forced idle. It happened again with my wife. This time when I checked the codes it had the p2104 and a p2112 throttle actuator control system stuck closed code. What could be the problem, or a troubleshooting guide I could use to try and diagnose it.
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I have a 2005 Camry XLE v6 that has been draining down the battery lately. I checked the idle current draw and found its about 320mA. What the general range should be? I took the reading with all doors closed (no lights), engine off and nothing switched on except the systems that require constant power.
The car has an aftermarket radio (Pioneer AVIC D1) installed (which has a line tied to the constant power source). At this setting, I suppose only the clock and the security system should be ON, but shouldn't those systems draw very little power? ... I looked through the Hayne's manual but couldn't find anything about idle current draw.
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2005 VW Tuareg, 67,000 miles. Engine sputtering and bucking - but only under specific circumstance. If I drive the car over 40 mph for even a short distance and then turn the engine off, the car will start back up normally the next time I start it. But if I were to move the car, say, from the driveway to the street then turn the engine off, the next time I start it, the engine would sputter and buck at idle. It would also buck when I put it in gear and run roughly until I hit above 40 mph, then it would smooth out. Thus, the problem only presents itself if the engine is turned on and the car not allowed to run above 40 mph before it is turned off again. The engine light is on, and the dealership says it's cam adjusters not working right,i.e., meaning BIG $$ to fix. Does that sound plausible?
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I drive a 2005 Jetta GLI 1.8T 6speed which in South Africa is called 1.8T-R. The car shakes at idle and after driving for a while it cuts off power, when restarting it takes some time cranking before starting. After starting the EPC light comes on and the rev goes up to almost 2000rpm. It runs on an AUQ Engine.
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