Camry :: 2005 V6 - Harnesses On Battery Positive Terminal
Jun 20, 2013
Car details : 2005 Camry V6
I was replacing the dead battery in my car. While disconnecting positive terminal cables, top cable going to relay/ fuse box side was broken around the lug.Looks like power cable for fusebox or something. I have 2 cables connecting to the positive terminal and only one is broken.
1.If this particular cable can be bought independently , if yes what is the part number . Can I buy this at any local store ? .
Confusion is, all I see is one cable listed on part schematic which seems to be the second cable.
2. Couldn't find any DIYs with pictures to replace this cable, as currently I can only see half of the cable . Don't know where other end goes.
Now my car is sitting duck with me taking a cab to go to work.
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Over the weekend I went to go run some errands and while I was leaving my neighborhood, my dash lit up like a Christmas tree, with the red triangle, CEL, low tire pressure, and the exclamation on the MFD. So I quickly turned around and parked it back in my garage.
A little later and after doing some research on the forum here, I began to troubleshoot, at which point the feeling of dread was at the pit of my stomach and decided to go to the local auto store and have the code read. It was of course the "P0A80 - Replace Hybrid Battery Pack" the exact message I didn't want it to be.
So I turned around and went back home, the entire time all the lights stayed on and monitored the SOC of the traction battery. It was charging, just increasing and decreasing quicker than usual.
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I'm pretty new to working on cars let alone a diesel truck, so this could well be something simple and / or dumb. Hopefully it is.
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What might be causing this?
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2005 Camry LE 4 cylinder, 141K miles.
For 6 months the battery light has been coming on intermittently, sometimes not coming on for two to three days and then does it again every so often during the fourth day and so on. Until recently, it's gone a record 6 days without coming on.
However, today it's stayed on all day. Usually, when it does come on, it will go back in in a minute or two. I'd gotten used to it, since the car has always started like nothing is wrong. However, tonight the ABS light came on with the battery light, then the Safety Bag light came on. Then, the radio died, clicking, static, then just dim light, The clock dimmed when the headlights were on, and the headlights weren't as bright as they should be. Stopped the car in a parking lot. Wouldn't not start again, but the dash would come on.
Got a jump and the car started up fine, but there wasn't enough power getting to anything to make the car do much of anything. The car didn't seem to have enough power to send to the transmission to shift, pressing the brake pedal made the dash go black.
Sat a while, got the car to start again, with a fight. Enough power to shift getting to the transmission, but quickly all the lights started coming on one by one again, and none of the lights were bright as they should be. Back to square one.
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* Repair Terminal #1 at connector H5
The headlamp was fine for a while and then the problem came back recently. The right headlight would be out when I started the car... and then it would usually flick back on after driving for a few minutes.
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As the battery is in its own corner, I'm not too sure how to disconnect the negative terminal so I want to know, if I clean the MAF sensor and leave the battery connected, will that have adverse affect?
I think pulling and re plugging a specific fuse will also work?
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2005 prius with 172,000 miles had a rebuilt battery about a year ago and still holds a full charge when parked during the week..I drive this on weekends. When starting out the charge is still full (in the green).
As I drive the car the first few miles the battery drops into the purple and slowly recharges to full again. When the car goes from gas to all electric there's a delay/slip and the battery rapidly discharges again than builds itself back up..
It still gets around 45 mpg.. Could there be other bad cells or is this a CVT problem? (I doubt the fluid has ever been changed and I don't think there is a filter to clog).
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I have a 2005 Prius that I purchased in 2010 as the second owner. When I first got it, I would average 50-65 MPG depending on city vs. interstate (per trip computer). After about a year, I was usually in the 40's. However, in the past 6 months or so, the MPG has dipped drastically. Based on the trip computer, I average about 30 MPG on the interstate and 15-20 MPG in the city. I have read that often times, a dip in MPG signals a need to change the 12V. I tested the 12V, and it's usually around 12.4V after sitting unused for 12+ hours.
More info: -The poor MPG is consistent whether it's 95, 65, or 35 degrees outside.
-Flat terrain (Washington, DC)
-Usually shorter trips of about 20-25 minutes.
-75% city, 25% highway. Highway driving is pretty smooth, little traffic, average of 55 MPH. City driving is incredibly stop and go due to traffic, constant stop signs and red lights, etc., with probably an average of 15 MPH when I'm actually driving.
-No overfilled oil.
-Had an alignment maybe 8 months ago - nothing unusual about the drive or tire wear.
-Goodyear Viva 2 Tire P185/65R15, maybe 15k miles put on them. Tire pressure unknown at the moment.
-I drive like a grandma in D mode.
-I don't warm up the ICE.
-HVAC is off.
-In terms of whether any significant changes occurred around time I noticed the drop: none. I was living in Florida at the time, doing a highway commute of about 2 hours roundtrip every day with a small bit of city driving when the mileage drop occurred. I have since relocated to DC, and the problem is the same.
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I tried starting my 2005 Jeep Wrangler yesterday and there wasn't enough charge to get it started. I got a few slow revolutions and that was it. I gave it a jump and it started fine. Drove it for an hour or so and then went to restart it 3 hours after I shut it off and it was dead again. Another jump and I drove it for an hour (home). I was able to start it a few hours after that on its own, though it struggled to a bit.
Tried again this morning and it was dead from sitting overnight. A few other bits of info:
With the key in the ignition, the charge indicator is hovering just above 9V (it is a 12V battery) before I try to start it. When engine is running after start, it jumps to around 12V.
I am pretty sure I didn't leave the lights on or door open overnight. I haven't noticed the engine struggling to start leading up to the dead battery.
After I jumped it again this morning, it seems to be idling very low. In fact, the engine shutoff when I let it idle in neutral with my foot off the gas for a few seconds.
When I got in the Jeep this morning before trying to start it, it had enough charge for the radio and dashboard. When I turn on the lights/highbeams it struggled and the high beam indicator on the dashboard (blue light) was flashing. Battery is not too old. I don't have the receipt with me, but I think I bought a new one 3-4 years ago. The +/- connections are clean with no corrosion. I didn't look too closely, but I didn't notice any obvious connection issues from the battery leading into other components.
I'll probably go buy another battery, but wanted to check with the experts out there to see if there is anything else I should be checking. If I do get another battery
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