Camry :: 2005 - Surging Or Transmission Slippery?
Jan 24, 2016
I just notice this problem after I bought this used 05 Camry I4. When I was running at a mild speed said 30-40 miles, the engine will accelerate by itself and the RMP will jump to around 3000-4000 instantly with a pretty loud noise like you are stepping on gas while stay at N gear and the speed won't go up a little bit. The problem seems won't cause much impacts on driving since the RMP will drop to normal very quickly and such thing only happen occasionally. After doing some search online, I really don't know what kind of problem it is, I did check my transmission fluid lever and found it is in normal area.
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The vehicle I am working on is a 2005 Camry LE with the 2.4L I4 with 172,000 miles. The problem is it surges under acceleration or when the tranny downshifts and engine is under load going up a hill.car idles fine and runs good otherwise. Its hard to explain the surging without driving it yourself but I will tell what I have done so far and car is not showing CEL.
-replaced the AFR sensor (Bosch)
-replaced the O2 sensor (denso)
- plugs look good (no fouling)
I am thinking maybe the throttle position sensor or MAF sensor. What to check next.
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Recently did Transmission rebuild soon after noticed that it's slippery. When I start the car in the morning it's not rolling as it should. I let it worm little like 3minutes then start driving but still it's slippery when it comes to a very little hill not taking the gear. After driving on the straight road for 4-5 blocks then its fine no problem at all. Only when car gets cold this issue happen.
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The truck runs fine and gets the same fuel mileage that it always did and there are no codes...It has the Allison transmission and the Duramax 6.6 and it is a 2005 model C4500 Top Kick capacity 15000lbs. The truck has 254780 miles on it. I can minimize the surging by putting Marvel Mystery Oil in the diesel. Some times it is worst than others ...Sometimes it goes away altogether...Sometimes it will go away if i shift it out of drive at a stoplight.....It happens the worst when I have been at speed for a hundred miles or more or less. Very mysterious...The computer must be sensing a fault and speeding up the idle a hundred rpms .....
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I have Toyota Camry 2005 LE, 180.000 miles ( first owner )
Few months back I noticed that my Camry is sputtering on low RPM below 2000 ( but never when engine is cold )
Car is driving perfect on the highway but in the city sputtering get very annoying when on low RPM and high gear.
My remedy for that is to press overdrive off button after this sputtering always goes away.
My transmission fluid level when HOT is 1 inch above HOT mark
And when in cold next ( morning ) label is still above HOT mark
Fluid level never goes down to COLD mark
What are the cause of the tran fluid be on same level and can sputtering be the symptom of it?
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I recently purchased a 2005 Camry XLE V6 (100K miles). Its in great condition and no issues except I am observing this:
-> When I come to stop (like at a stop sign), just before coming to complete stop, there is a slight forward jerk. When I come to stop slowly and smoothly, there is no problem.
the faster I come to stop the more severe is the jerk. I tried to search for answers on the web, one possibility is bad solenoid in the transmission.
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I just bought my 2007 GX470 last Friday. Last night I drove it home in the season's first snowstorm. I've got plenty of experience with winter driving and Toyotas, so I thought I knew what to expect.
I dropped down to 3rd gear for a long hill and the transmission or engine started surging. It would hold at 1100 rpm, then suddenly jump to 1400rpm when my foot was not even on the gas. Then it would drop back to 1100 again.
The car has 78000 miles on it.
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So I just recently had to take my 2010 Golf TDI into the shop to replace the mechanics unit. Took them a while to get the unit installed but overall I was happy. The car was driving perfect for about 2-3 months. Then all of a sudden the transmission starting violently surging and dropping the clutch again. I thought the mech unit was going bad again in less than 5K miles. I couldn't get the car in the shop until about 3-4 days after and I did drive the car there because the surging was manageable. It did kick the car into safe mode when the dsg appeared to overheat. It turns out there was a leak from the gasket. They are fixing it now free of charge but it looks like they messed up.
The issue is now I am afraid of any damage that may have been caused to the mech/clutch form the fluid getting low. Should I be worried about this and if so what should I do? I would think the shop should be responsible for any damage done to the car.
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Currently on a 1 week mini break, and the P has decided to play up. I have had 6 months of worry free driving before this new issue. I have posted before that the 6 speed in my P has never been the best behaved in auto, a bit slippy and jerky, at times, but also perfect shifts 60+% of the time, but I know others share this issue so not unusual - its usually ok when manually going through the gears.
Upto 110k miles now and on this journey had been about 10miles in on the motorway so fully warmed up. Had cruise on doing about 70 mph. Bascially started being very erratic and surging then dropping quite uncomfortably.
I knocked cruise off and observed that under full acceleration no issue. Under no acceleration (foot off gas) no issue. Only when keeping up with traffic, so partial gas, did the issue occur. I waiting for the next exit and pulled off, and it initially carried on even at low speeds around 30mph, then went away. Parked up. Started it up about 2 hours later fearing the worse, but had no issue since. Kicking myself as I have the laptop but forgot the VAGcom lead.
Rang my VW specialist and he said as there were no MIL lights, the only way to know whats going on is to scan the car, and if it does it again get it recovered, which will mean the end of my break. I will scan the car as soon as I get back, but concerned I could do more damage.
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I have a 2013 ES350 with 8K miles. Since car has been new, experienced intermittent surging and uneven driving at speeds between 25-40mph. At times the RPM gauge will spike and other times RPM stays stable. It seems like it is searching for the right gear and very noticeable when it does this. I have tried different grades of gas, different driving modes. Nothing works. Problem is inconsistent but persistent.
Also, experiencing cruise control issues going up and down hills where vehicle feels like it trying slow itself down and then shifting hard to maintain speed.
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Last winter, I noticed the engine was surging intermittently after start-up, until the engine warmed up. No issues on warmer days, spring/summer, etc.. Recently, the check engine light came on, so I took it into the shop. The shop did not feel the problem was the throttle body, and replaced the mass air flow sensor. The engine is still doing the surging thing after starting up.
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I have a 2005 Ford Freestyle with 59,xxx miles. My wife and I drive it less than 7,000 miles p/year. About six months ago it began to surge (we had already taken it back to the dealer for some work on a recall related to surges while idling). However, the surge that now occurs is not related to the recall--it can happen anytime, even when on the highway while in cruise control at 70 mph. It makes the driveability of the car questionable. We have had it back to the Ford deal repeatedly, only to be told a number of high dollar things that seem to be based on guesses rather than actual data. No codes have come up with computer diagnostics.
We have also taken to independent mechanics, only to be told there is nothing wrong. Only once did a mechanic say that he 'felt' the surging when he test drove the vehicle. But even then, the shop said that they would have to do a tune-up (which raised a red flag with me because tune-ups no longer seem to be the proper term to be used with modern engine maintenance). I did a lot of research and as a result I asked a mechanic to test the fuel pump. The result is that the low pressure was 39.5 lbs, and, the high pressure was also 39.5 lbs.
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This weekend I was driving home from my parents and noticed that on flat ground at a constant pace there seemed to be surging of some sort...Although I am not sure that surging is exactly what it was, but it is the best word to describe it.
Basically, if I kept my foot at an even speed (not accelerating or decelerating) I would get very subtle movement in what seemed to be either the differential or the transmission. No error codes were thrown and the battery gauge was spiked at 14 solid.
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I have a 2002 Accent with 119,000 miles on it. Its an automatic transmission. When I am driving the car feels like it surging forward while I have the brake on...its doesn't happen all the time. But when it does it surges for half a minute, then run fine and then surges again.
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My 2006 expedition surges very slightly while cruising under very low throttle. Usually most noticeable at 60-65 mph with no headwind.
Took it in and had my mechanic check it out. He confirmed the slight surge and said it felt like the torque converter was locking and unlocking. No codes or pending codes were found related to the power train.
Abs light is on for a bad rear wheel speed sensor. Code for right rear. Checking the sensor showed 3 ohms for right, 5 ohms left ( left is less than a year old on a new wheel bearing.)
Initial thought was the bad sensor is giving bad input confusing the pcm/tcm. But the condition remains with the sensor unplugged.
Driving down the road watching the tach, it does appear that the converter is not staying locked. Condition goes away with more throttle. Motor runs smoothly otherwise with no indications of misfire. Plugs have 50k miles on them, as does the transmission fluid. Fluid is red and smells fine. Never gotten hotter than 210 by the gauge in the pressure port.
Why would it lock/unlock at very low throttle, but lock tight with more throttle? Tps flaking out? Throttle body motor getting twitchy? Can I pull my popup to the hills this weekend?
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I was driving down a steep hill the other night, going about 10 mph. It was very slick, with a few inches of somewhat wet snow. All settings were normal, and when I started to gain speed, I stepped on the brakes. As the wheels locked up and the ABS kicked in, I could not get enough traction to slow down, and I wound up sliding through the upcoming intersection. Fortunately, no one was coming, so I was OK.
I have a lot of experience with ABS. My question is this... Should I have engaged LOW, and relied on Hill Decent to maintain my speed, or should I have just made sure that my speed never increased but remained in HIGH? Or is sliding down a slope like this inevitable?
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This has been annoying me a little bit. When I get in my car when it's been raining, I try to wipe my shoes off on the carpet before touching the pedals but all it takes is little bit of water. i hate the squeaking and my foot has slipped off the clutch a few times.
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A few weeks ago I got in my 2005 EX and started for work. As I idled in traffic, the engine started surging (it had never done this before). So I took it right to Ford and dropped it off before it got worse. Of course, they couldnt look at it until Monday (this was a Thursday), so I had to get a rental.
I get the call on Monday that the surging problem was an injector, but covered by my warranty. But, it seems that my EGR cooler was bad, but even more important was my blown head gasket.
WHAT?! My truck did NOT have a blown head gasket when I dropped it off. But thats besides the point. There was much back and forth between Ford and my warranty company, but finally I got them to cover the head gasket.
But, I had to pay for the EGR cooler. So I asked the Ford mechanic if I could supply him with an upgraded cooler, so I wouldn't have this issue in the future. He said no problem. I then told him I was going to buy a Bulletproof and he said no, get a delete kit. He said "I've done a number of these, and its really the best solution.". He even HEAVILY recommended the ADT Delete kit. He even said that since I have a 2005, we can just leave the EGR valve hooked up and I wouldn't have a CEL issue.
Fast forward several days. I picked up my EX last night and... CEL is on. I called and spoke to the mechanic and he told me that I must have an upgraded program, and that my only option is a tuner to turn off the EGR completely. He also told me that I don't need an expensive SCT or Bullydog just for the EGR.
Anyways, with all of the above setting of the stage complete, just wondering what my best option is here... Is there a simple/cheaper tuner I can use to just disable the EGR? Is it worth the money to get a more expensive tuner? For the most part, this is my daily driver and I don't need a performance or towing tune. I wouldn't mind better mileage, though
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My daughter has a Toyota Camry which is a great car. She is having problems with it surging lately and reading the code it said the O2 sensor was malfunctioning. We replaced it and it is running better but now it's surging around 1.000 rpm, the car is bucking and being a pain. Having a GM with the same problem I changed out the throttle position sensor and it worked a bit but it's still doing it.
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I have a 2006 VW Rabbit with 106k miles. It is an automatic. Strange problem: if it is raining AND the traction control symbol comes on (I slip), then the EPC light comes on and the car is slow to shift and has poor acceleration. This does not happen if it is not raining and it does not happen just when it's raining. One mechanic recommended cleaning the throttle body, but since the car runs great all other times, this didn't make sense to me.
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I purchased a used 2002 Camry [above model] with 99K miles on it in March, 2009. This is my 3rd Camry as the first, 1986 had 256K and the 1997 had 252K. I was very pleased with the 86 & 97 and very displeased with this new one!
I have problems with the engaging stalling, surging at stop signs as well as problems at about 40 mph.
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