Camry :: 2005 Solara Cranks But No Start
Dec 26, 2011
My '07 Solara w/40k miles has a burned out tail-light (LED). It had moisture built up in it and probably caused it. I opened the hood to check to see if any fuses might be involved (didn't remove any) and the car wouldn't start after that. It cranks nicely, but acts as if it isn't getting any fuel.
Previously this happened to me and it turned out to be the battery (even though it cranked well). So, I replaced the battery with the one from my other car - no go, so we've eliminated the battery.
Took my voltmeter and I have 12.6 or so at the battery. The tail-lights have around 11.91 volts. Pulled the fuel pump wiring and again, I have 11.91 volts. Hooked a 12v lamp to it and the lamp won't come on, which leads me to a short somewhere?? (I have unplugged the LED tail-light).
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I have a 2006 solara 3.3L. I bought this car about 4 months ago and it was running fine. Couple weeks ago I try to start the car and it would crank but won't start. I checked the fuel rails it was getting but somehow not starting... What can be the problem?
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Since I've owned the car, which i got in December of 2013, the engine light has been on and off. The previous owner, who drove it off the lot in 2004, was a family member who took it to a mechanic multiple times. Multiple mechanics said it was the gas cap. I replaced the gas cap back in February 2014. The engine light still comes on and occasionally goes off.
Here's some information I've gathered driving the car since then
Straight highway mileage tops out at 28 MPG. Only city/town driving yields about 19/20 mpg, so the gas mileage is okay
Last weekend, I drove around on maine roads for the whole weekend, spending about 90% of the driving time doing 50+ on roads. The engine light successfully went off and stayed off for the longest period of time since i've owned the car.
The rust situation on the car is extremely minor, except for some rusted fittings. Frame rust and general surface rust is non existant except on certain pieces that can be replaced (struts, tie rods, ect) However, there is one piece that looks shitty, which is the spacer between the exhaust header out of the engine and the engine block.
The code the car puts out is either a catalytic system failure or catalytic system operating below threshold. There is a new catalytic converter in the last 3 years, so I highly doubt that's at fault (not to mention the engine light manages to stay off for the yearly inspection and it passes emissions no problem).
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I have recently done a battery disconnect hoping the issue was a glitch in the ecu/tcu as this has solved some clunkiness in my old audi. But the issue is till there.
I also went ahead and did a fluid change of the transmission at the dealer.
The issue is intermittent and the rpms just rev up slightly only on the 3rd and 4th transition and like I mentioned it is an intermittent issue.
I have read something about adjusting bands to the transmission? Is this solution applicable to the 05 solara v6 tranny? The old transmission fluid was pink and not black or burnt.
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It doesn't look like the lens is separable from the headlamp assembly?
I think while very thoroughly washing the car and engine compartment after purchase, I must have gotten water into the assembly - maybe from the back side ... should I just wait it out?
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I have a 2002 Toyota Solara SLE 6-cylinder 2-door coupe. 98,000 miles.
I have lots of white smoke at start up. Big time oil consumption. My wife drives car 14 mile round trip each day. Each night, I go out late and start car to burn off oil. There is no smoke in the morning when I do this.
People here have suggested the problem is valve stem seals. Not something I should try to fix myself. I did change the pcv valve.
I took car to mechanic. Told him it might be valve stems. He said he'd have to do the heads. Sounded like it would be expensive.
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I have a 2003 Solara 4cyl, some months ago it started to blow light blue smoke on start, but would go away after a few minutes. My mech, could be the valve guides. Then about a month ago it blew a head gasket, didn't overheat though, as I stopped, added water and went to the mech. So new gasket and a valve job, but it still blows smoke on start. THe mech said going to 20w50 might work, it didn't. I check the oil last week, thought it should a couple of qts low, so I added oil, but the blue smoke is still there, and I started to smell oil burning. I thought maybe I added too much, so I add another oil change w/20w50....still have the oil burning, blue smoke on start... The mech thinks might be leaking in the rings...ugh....probably could/ve bought a new engine by now...... The check engine light had been intermittent, the mech said it the catalytic converter....it finally went off by itself four days ago....maybe it burned out..........
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It's a 2001 camry Solara .. When I start my car for the first time every day, I have white smoke come out my exhaust usually for about a minute or two but it runs fine after that. But it's like a cloud of white smoke. I checked my oil and it's fine. What it could be?
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I've got a 2005 Camry 2.4L. Car won't start but it cranks. Got some codes being thrown:
P0010 (camshaft position 'A' Acuator circuit bank 1),
P0748 (Pressure control solenoid 'A' electrical),
P0778 (Pressure control solenoid 'B' electrical),
P2716 (Pressure control solenoid 'D' electrical).
Checked the ignition coils and all 4 are firing and sparking, sprayed some starter fluid in the throttle body and it didn't start. I'm also not hearing the fuel pump prime.
Additionally, I've tested the OCV by pulling it out and connecting it to 12v and its clicking like expected (cleaned it and put it back in - still won't start). I've also had the battery tested and it's fine. I pulled the camshaft sensor and cleaned it and tested it, and it tested fine as well.
When I tested the Crankshaft position sensor I got the ohm reading to be very high, higher than normal operation. Could this be allowing spark but also malfunctioning enough to not allow the fuel pump to prime and turn on fully?
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I bought a 2002 Camry with a burnt engine one it for a project. I put a 2005 Camry engine on it, and changed ecm, ignition switch, dash harness and the harness that goes from the ecm down to the rest of the engine parts( transmission and sensors and such) all from a 2005 model. But I didn't change the other wiring that goes along the fire wall. We first tried to start the car I wont start at all. No even crank.
Checked spark = good
Checked fuel pressure = no fuel pressure.
But when I use the ecm from the 2002 I have fuel but not spark. So I open the the fuel relay and manually closed it, then the car starts and runs but zero throttle. My question is: do I have to take it to toyota to get it reprogrammed or there there is something else I can do before that.
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I got a 05 Passat I am working on. The car was being drove and my customer when to eat lunch. Came out side and didn't start. Got it to my house threw it on the scanner and it brought up 2 cam sensor codes. Replaced them and still nothing. What to try next. The car cranks over fine and it does have fuel pressure and also has spark.
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My 2005 cranks but will not start. I spray starter fluid in throttle body and it will start but won't stay running. I've replaced the fuel pump and the fuel sender unit which is located under the spare tire. After I replaced the fuel sender unit It started and ran for about 30 seconds. It quit when the fuel line popped off the fuel pump and pushed gas all over the ground. I secured the gas line back on and now it won't start again unless I use starting fluid.
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Hit a pole hole blew out passenger front tire, rim gone, car went dead , car cranks over will not start, what my be wrong. no under carriage damage...
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Malibu no start issue. It cranks, but will not start until she presses the gas pedal to floor. When it does start, it is a very low Idle but smooth. as soon as she lifts the gas, the car dies. Kinda like ran out of gas.
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My truck usually starts up great, but every so often it takes 3 to 4 long cranks before it will start. By long cranks I mean more than 4 or 5 seconds of turnover. Seems to be no real rhyme or reason to this. It does it engine cold or hot. I have iPhone engine monitor app and numbers seem fine. BTW it's a 2005.
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Brought a 2006 f350 6.0 from the action and knowing it was damaged from the frame, i went ahead and brought a another f350 6.0 2005 from someone around town, the last owner is calming the truck was stole, and most of the engine was stole, and the windows where damage. ( I just wanted to buy the truck for the body so i can transfer the engine to this one! ) but instead of switching the engine, me and my dad went ahead and only put the missing parts back onto the engine....
I can tell the last owner wasn't telling the truth, and me and my dad where thinking the last owner made up his own story about the truck being stole !! I did a vin check and noting came up about having a bad history!!!!!!!!! I'm thinking something went bad in the truck, and the last owner did his own fault story... Anyways!!!
we finally put everything back in place, and the truck cranks, but does NOT start!! and also has no spark. sometimes it sounds like it does wanna start!! we check the fuel, and wires, oil, fuel filer! everything good, but the truck has no spark, and where not sure if thats the problem. and also switch out the Crank sensor. Still no luck!!
And also there is smoke when we crank. battery are good too, and even left the truck 28 hours on the wire to head up the engine!!
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2005 1.8t gti wont start. The other day I was driving on the highway when a thin plastic type wrapping got caught in my serpentine belt. The car immediately died and I hit the gas and nothing and with no power steering i pulled over to the side.
Timing belt was done with water pump and tensioners
Spark plugs and coils are brand new
What fuel line to disconnect to test if the fuel pump works? Like I said in the title I cant hear the fuel pump priming. The engine was running 100% before this 2 techs saw it and the vw dealer i workrd at looked it over.
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So I have a 2005 GTI 1.8t and I just recently had a new fuel filter/fuel pump installed.. Now ever morning when I go to start it it starts really hard.. once it's starts it runs fine it just takes me a couple cranks to get it started....
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I have a 6 liter 2005 e350 diesel that starts great when cold and runs well all the time but after it warms up it just cranks but won't fire up. But if i shoot ether into the intake it will start. It doesn't show any failure codes.
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My camry used to crank a couple of seconds longer and then take. Yesterday it died just after starting and wont start. It cranks. Checked and found fuse 15 in eng comp blown. Changed it and blew again. Check fuel pump, it seems to work when momentarily apply power to it. The engine management light does not come on when swithing ignition on any more as well. The airbag light also does not come on since this as well. Was wondering if ecu is gone bad?
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I have a 2005 SE 3.3L engine with 115000Miles,
When you turn the ignition key , you have to wait for it to crank 6-7 times before it starts. whether engine is cold or warm it makes no difference.
I was wondering how your engines ( 3.3Ls) behave, does that start immediately after 1-2 cranks, or it is normal for this type of engines to take 6-7 turns ?
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