I have a 2005 Camry SE V6 with 73000k I just got it out of the body shop yesterday and everything seemed fine. i started the car up a short time ago and it stalled out when attempted to drive away. its idling at 400 rpms? I feel that the guys at the shop disconnected something.
View 1 RepliesI have '05 Camry v4. Everything was fine but three days ago I started to have issues. At first I tried starting the engine it would fire up with RPMs going to about 2000 as per usual start. Instead of going down to 800 as it usually does the RPMs just keep on dropping until car stalls. On the first day it started happening I would simply try to start the car again and it would start.
Progressively it would take me more tries to start the engine. It's always the same way (be it a cold start or a start after I've just drove for a while). First try - the engine starts and stalls right away and after that I have to keep on trying to start it for some time. So finally it wouldn't start at all. Starter cranks, battery fine, but the car simply would not start. Weird part about it, is that once the car starts it acts completely normal. No spikes in RPMs, no loss of power, nothing! At this point I just don't know what the hell it is.
Last November my car began stalling while idling at stop lights. It didn't happen all the time, just occasionally. The car would start back up without too much difficulty. I took it to a GM dealer who cleaned the throttle body and decarburized the intake and exhaust valves. They also removed an aftermarket security system which had been installed by the previous owner which they claimed may have interfered electrically with the engine. They reported a history of code P0128 (thermostat sticking open) being stored in the ECM. I did not have the thermostat replaced.
The work the dealer performed did not resolve the issue. During the winter, I've been letting the car warm-up for a few minutes before driving. While warming up, the rpms will sometimes increase or decrease 200-300 rpm then return to normal idling a few seconds later. Sometimes when the rpms dip down low enough, the engine sputters and either recovers or stalls. On most days I don't have any issues and the car runs fine. The check engine light sometimes comes on while this happens, and sometimes it doesn't.
I have a 1992 Toyota Camry EL that has been running fine - up until about 3 weeks ago. It has developed a problem of stalling when idling, sometimes, not always. My mechanic has replaced the vacuum hose to the idle air control after finding it was cracked. It kept on stalling after that. Then he replaced the exhaust gas recycling valve assembly, but it still will stall at times. I have noticed that sometimes the engine will rev way up then way down while I'm sitting at a stop light. This morning it stalled while I backed out of a parking spot. Only 95K miles on this car, and I would like to keep it going if possible.
View 2 RepliesMy truck starts right up, then immediately almost stalls or stalls completely. It also shakes a little when idling while its in Park. I just recently had my egr valve, pcv valve, spark plugs&wires, and fuel filter replaced. it has 104,000 miles on it. What could be causing it to do this?
View 9 RepliesI own a 2.4L Automatic 2003 Camry XLE.
I've gone to multiple mechanics and none have been able to give me a clear answer. Long story short, I've just recently had a new engine put in.
While it runs fine, there is a tremendous amount of vibration coming off the engine. You can feel it while it's idling, and at all RPMs. It kinda bearable at 1,500 and is the worst at 1,800 RPMs. Beyond 1,800 RPMs, it doesn't get worse, its kinda tapers off just a little.
Notes:
- We've checked the balance shafts and they are aligned correctly.
- No engine code
- Replaced spark plugs
The vibration is bad enough that some screws inside the car have even become loosened. As I said in the beginning, I've gone to multiple mechanics and no luck. What it could be and what to do/try.
I have a 1997 Toyota Camry with over 200,000 miles. It is a manual: 5 speed. In the past few months it has started to idle at around 2000 RPMS, which is way too high. I took the car into a mechanic where I am currently living (Austin, TX), and they couldn't diagnose the problem, because, according to them, it didn't do it the whole time they had it. I admit, it doesn't do it all the time, but I know something is not right. It is beginning to idle high more frequently. How to diagnose this problem and to solve it!!
View 4 RepliesI have a 2003 Camry 3.0l v6. Stalls at lights random.
Currently the car stalls at stops but this doesn't happen all the time it can go a month in between the problem occurring its very random. While sitting at a light the rpms drop and then it revs up and cycles like that for quite a while. This will also occur while cruising at a low speed while I'm just coasting the rpms will go up and down. I can compensate while stopped by power braking and keeping it at its normal idling rpm. I have no check engine lights and can't seem to determine what would be causing this issue.
We recently bought a used 2005 Camry LE 4cyl 2.4L. When we test drove it there were hardly any symptoms and no CEL. After driving it for a week we start feeling a stuttering every once in a while, no CEL still so I thought it might just need a tune up.
Replaced the plugs (which were in bad shape, were Iridiums, friend mentioned it seemed like they were burnt, white blistering like high RPM burn) with new NGK Platinums and replaced the air filter (was also in bad shape, was K&N that was badly clogged up and black).
Drove it around, let it idle, turn on AC, no problem not a hiccup. Next day arrives and the car is misfiring worse than before. CEL comes on too. We get the codes and its the P0304 I mention in the title.
We check the coils and the plugs and they fire, we switch coil 4 and 1 and clear the CEL, then later the CEL comes back on and it's still P0304 so we rule out the coils. The plugs come pre-gapped also.
The misfires are at their worst when idling and trying to accelerate hard, I can hold it at 2000-3000 RPMs with no hiccups or very few ones. Misfires worse with AC on.
Only thing left to do is check compression, try to clean the injector with fuel additive and premium gasoline, or replace the injector, at least that's what I think.
It has 86000 miles.
My wife's 05 Camry when starting revs up to 2200 rpm for 4 seconds or so: then drops down around 8-900. Should I be concerned ? if so, is it adjustable ?....I dont like to rev my engine for at least 45 seconds.
View 2 RepliesThe car occasionally stalls while at a stop and the car is idling. The car is supposed to idle at 900RPM but is idling at 550RPM. What would be suggested to prevent the car from stalling?
View 7 RepliesI have a 2009 Santa fe 3.3L V6 (live Montreal, Canada), since the past week when I start it up, I've noticed that after 1 minute or so while the it is idling my rpm's drop from 1000 to about 650 for split second and it seems to want to stall. The same thing happens when driving for a a small distance when ever I have to make a stop my Santa fe rpm's drop (split second) so low it seems to want to stall. Could it be related to Throttle Sensor Position?
View 2 RepliesMy 1997 town and country van stalls when I brake or idle otherwise it drives fine what could that be?
View 2 Repliesso I have a 1987 2.9L Ranger that likes to stall out when its idling after reaching temperature. Ive replaced all sorts of sensors (IAC, Coolant Temp, and PCV) and so far no luck. I was trying to figure out what the relearn procedure was for the IAC or get an input on any other possible sources of error. I haven't changed TPS yet.
What the engine does is when it gets up to temp, the engine will start to loose speed, and will start to shutter. Then it'll kick back up run fine for a few seconds and drop again, it'll do this for a few minutes then completely just choke out.
I have a 95 Celica ST (so it has the 1.8 7A-FE engine). When the AC is turned on and you rev the engine, when the rpms come back down it almost dies.
So say the engine is idling at 700 rpms with the AC on and I rev it up to 2,000 or something. When the rpms drop back down, instead of stopping at like 700 they go all the way down to like 400 or less and it almost stalls out. After a few seconds it comes back up to 700.
What does that sound like? All the vacuum lines are brand new, the throttle body/intake and egr valve were all completely cleaned of any carbon buildup.
The first time I turned on the AC this year, the car ran like normal for about 5 minutes. After that, I was coming to a stop light, I put the car in neutral, and it shut off. I could only get the car running again after I turned off the air. Then it would shutter very hard while idling. So far I have change the fuel filter and put cleaning stuff in the gas tank to clean the fuel injectors. When I tried running it again, it ran for about 10 minutes and stalled again. The car is a 1996 Nissan sentra. Check engine light doesn't come on, and the car has had regular oil changes. There is 191,000 miles on it.
View 7 RepliesSo, I have a 2011 Hyundai Accent. It drives great. Until recently.
My wife noticed that it was cranking a little longer than usual before starting. Then, one day, I noticed it. So, I stopped the car and restarted it to see if it would happen again, and listen more closely. But, all ti did was crank.
I became upset and went in to do some research and make some phone calls. I came back out and voila, it magically worked fine again. Weird, I thought.
A few days later, no incidents. We go to the grocery store. On our way out, it cranks longer. This time I'm not going to restart it, I think. So, I start driving and everything is great. Except...it suddenly wasn't accelerating. It felt like it was in neutral for like 100 feet or so, then back to normal. We're making plans to take it into the shop at this point.
The next day, we go out to get coffee. Car drives great. On our way out, no problems. We stop at the red light, and it stalls. I have to push it into a parking lot and call the tow. Strangely enough, it starts again ten minutes later, and runs fine.
The stalling and being unable to start for tenish minutes phenomenon has happened three times.
We took it to the shop, it actually did this as I was filling up gas--stalled. I pushed it into a space and waited a few minutes, bam, it started up fine. The mechanic told me that the engine light had been reset. He couldn't figure it out. Said everything looked great.
So, the run down is this:
-My car stalls when idling, but only after it has been driven some, stopped, and restarted without a lot of time passing--like when you're coming home from the store or something, after it sits for 30 or 40 minutes.
-Once stalled, it will not restart again until a few minutes have passed --something like five to ten minutes.
-There is no check engine light. Fluid levels are good. Connections and whatnot, according to the mechanic, looked good.
-When it stalls, all the electronics stay on and work. The oil light and engine light pop up (like this key is in and turned part way), then it all goes away when the car restarts.
-the computer says that it was reset after it does this.
My 2003 ford taurus SES randomly has problems with the speedometer fluctuating from 0 to 10 mph upon idling. Sometimes the car will eventually stall out but always restarts without a problem. You can feel it "jerk" when changing gears or what I describe as a "hesitation" once in awhile. The car is an automatic and we have already replaced the relay and the voltage regulator/alternator - that has not workeded. I can't afford to keep throwing money into it replacing parts that don't fix the problem. What could be wrong?
View 5 RepliesI just purchased a 93 escort sedan 1.9 ltr engine. Car runs great when idling but bogs down when accelerating to the point it almost stalls out but doesn't stall. the car sat for a while 6 + months. We thought the gas might be bad so we drained the tank filed it with premium to run thru the line but that didn't work. thought maybe o2 sensor, changed that but didn't work. getting error codes 412 and 538 but can't find any info on these codes.
View 7 Repliesi got a problem with my 96' 2.4 auto cavalier. It idles really rough at idle. I've replaced alternator, battery, idle air control valve, intake, plugs, and the fuel pump in the last year and a half. I've noticed that the rpms will fluctuate between about 625-675 when it's idling rough. About once every 11 seconds the car will rev up for a moment and will idle smooth but then it idle rough again. Every one in a while it will throw trouble code p0200 random multiple cylinder misfire.
View 14 Replies I have a 2005 Ford Ranger 4.0 V6 2wd Edge, with around 175,000 miles. It runs great, however the RPM's are slow to return and it seems to idle a little high for longer than you would expect when starting the engine. For example, exiting off the freeway with the clutch depressed, the RPM's will drop from approximately 2300, pause at 1800 for a second, then drop and pause at 1100 for a few seconds before returning to idle. If stationary and rev the engine, they seem to drop back normally.
So far I have changed the IAC valve and checked for vacuum leaks (not sure how exhaustive a check it was but sprayed every joint I could find). My mechanic agrees that it is abnormal, but has suggested that we wait for it to worsen enough to throw a code rather than spend a lot of time and money replacing things that may not be a problem. Also the throttle cable appears to be functioning normally and not sticking.