I am new to a 2005 camry SE V6 3.3 lt, Today tested the security system by; locking the doors using the keyfob and waiting for 30 seconds for the system to arm itself then opening the door from inside the car. No alarm went off !!
The security Red LED on the dash works properly and shows no sign of malfunction. I am not sure how to start troubleshooting.
I have a 2005 Toyota Camry XLE V6 and recently I went to unlock the door with the key and the car honked once; the horn hasn't gone off since when I tried unlocking the door again. I never use the key fob to lock or unlock the door just the key. I did call the dealership and they told me it was the security system activating, which I thought was funny since it never honked for the all years I used the key to lock and unlock the car. So my question is... is the dealership right? Should the car honk when I unlock the car with the master key?
View 4 RepliesI recently failed emission test for my 1999 V6 Passat. I replaced the cats., thermostat, O2 sensors (before cats), and the list goes on. Is there a reflash in the ECM that needs to be reset that only VW can do with their scanner?
View 4 RepliesMy truck is a 91 sierra 2500 over 8600 gvw (8 lug) 5.7 4l80E. After my truck failed a Calif smog test I set about testing the different sensors that are attributed to the reason it failed (a few points high on HC's). All the smog equipment and sensors tested ok except for the 02.
I tested the one in the truck when it failed smog, it came out at 400 millivolts key on engine off as my Haynes manual and the Autozone website said it should, after running the truck for 10 minutes and running it at around 1200 RPM's for 2 min to get the O2 cycling it doesn't, best I have gotten was a slow rise of about 0.01 millivolt rise per second to about 0.590 MV where it seemed to level off, the problem is 2 seperate new sensors do the exact same thing, none cycle rapidly between 100-900 MV as the Haynes manual and the Autozone website say they should.
The 02 is pre-cat stock location, no changes to the exhaust since my last smog check. I don't even know if this is the reason I failed smog, it's just the only thing that didn't pass my testing. the truck does seem to be running a bit rich (per my ultra sensitive tailpipe sniff test).
I did do all the normal repairs after I failed the smog test, tune up, air filter, clean the TB run a can of cleaner through the gas tank, ETC, then I failed the re-test by 3 points worse. The truck does not run bad or blow a bunch of smoke, the truck is not throwing any codes.
It appears that the security system is somehow shut down. None of buttons on wireless FOB [main key] is working to open the door etc. even though the red indicator lights up. If I use the key, it opens the doors fine. The powerdoor controls inside the car are working fine. I did notice that security light on the dashboard is not blinking anymore.
The car was idle for three-four weeks and it didn't start so I gave a jump with portable unit. Could that do any damage to fuse etc.?
My 1992 Honda Accord failed the emission test today for a too high NOX reading. The applicable standard is 2.50 and my car's reading was 2.61. I've read that high NOX has something to do with a malfunctioning EGR valve. Will replacing the EGR valve guarantee that I pass the emissions test? I don't want to start throwing money at all kinds of parts.
View 4 RepliesMy 2008 Camry XLE(No after market systems) has locked out my dad several times now when he's parked and left the vehicle. We replaced his keyless remote dongle battery with a new one just in case. The light that blinks a red key on the dash to indicate the key is nearby turns solid red. I've yet to be the one locked out, but can't imagine what he'd do to lock it out as he's mechanically and electronically savvy. Can't reproduce the problem.
The only way we can get it to unlock the inhibitor is to jump the car battery. The dealer claims that we should only have to walk away from the vehicle out of range of the remote and back into range for the inhibitor to "untrip". I don't believe them because we replaced the car battery one time and it tripped the system and we had to get a jump even then to unlock it.
I own an '01 Honda Accord LX with the ULEV engine and 178k on it. My CEL light came on about 6 months ago. Ran the scanner and it showed a P1457 (EVAP Leak). Waited until now when my inspection was due and expected it to be caused by the EVAP shut valve as I read that's often the cause of the problem with this code. Mechanic said that it can't pass inspection because of the OBD fail but that the diagnostic scanner showed everything functioning properly, including my assumption about the faulty shut valve.
He reset the code and said to drive it the 50 miles for the system to ready itself and bring it back in. As I've reset the code several times over the 6 months to see if it would self correct, I'm pretty confident it will come back on. My questions are, is it possible I've done damage to the onboard computer by not addressing the underlying problem 6 months ago? Are there emissions problems that are not checked by the diagnostic tool that the mechanic should be looking for?
My truck is currently stock and recently started making a knocking noise louder than it usually does. I researched and have found the injectors can make a knocking noise when not performing correctly. I took it to a local shop who hooked it up to a snap on scan tool and ran some tests. It passed the Buzz test but continually failed the contribution test on cylinder 8. I'm going to go home and remove valve cover and unclip the injector to see if the noise goes away. I'm sure hoping it does as an injector by the looks of things is definitely the cheaper option. I'm scared because if I was listening to a gas powered truck and heard the sound my trucks making I would assume it was a lower end noise. My truck only has 148,000 miles....
View 14 RepliesI just took my 2005 Camry to get smogged and it failed. The reading said that my evaporator and my catalytic converter failed. I reset and drove her for almost 200 miles to get the reading settled, but that did not work. I checked all my fuses and the smog-guy and I have no clue what the issue could be. I don't think that the catalytic converter needs replacing since she only has 60,000 miles on her, but what could be the problem that it keeps saying 'fail'.
View 6 RepliesI have a 2004 VW Phaeton.
Today, the sound system failed, then shortly after, the navigation system failed.
On the console, if I press any map/navigation buttons, the error message "Navigation System Unavailable" is displayed.
If I press an audio related button, the error message "DSP system is unavailable". I took it to a private vw repair shop and a vw dealer. What was causing the issue.
I am now headed to a vw dealer with certified phaeton tech. I looked towards fuse issue, but they appear to be ok..
How to test reverse warning system sensors? My truck about 75% of the time, once i put it in reverse the system goes to off. I assumed a sensor, but can't find any major resistance differences in them.
View 9 RepliesI just tried doing the self test for reading the codes via the check engine light with the OBD1 system on my '93 4.0 Ranger. Problem is: When trying to mark down the flashes of the check engine light, they flash so erratically and rapidly that there is no way to accurately count. At times the light flickers so fast it never even gets to get fully bright enough to tell if it is actually a "flash" or not. I'm (again) trying to diagnose an issue with the truck starting and running fine for about 3-4 minutes and then like flipping a switch begins blubbering and belching out black smoke, check engine light flashes on/off randomly, then the engine will eventually die. It will restart provided the ignition switch is turned all the way off and attempted again, generating same results only within 30 seconds or so. If you try restarting w/o turning the ignition all the way off, it'll spin over but won't start. ECM?
View 4 RepliesMy nearly new Hyundai Sante Fe sat in the garage for 18 days while I was away. On return the battery was dead. The auto assistance truck came to restart the car. His portable charger did nothing except make the emergency horn honk continuously while connected to the battery. We rolled the car back to the truck and hooked up to the big charger on-board. This, too, caused the emergency horn honking for several minutes until the key start worked. The explanation suggested was that the security system drained the battery, and that locked the security system. The dealer's maintenance supervisor said "all new cars do this" and suggested I could disconnect the battery while it is parked for a "long time" and then reconnect. Maybe, but what a hassle and what if you can't open the electronic door lock to get to the hood release, to proceed. Is this really the state of things now?
View 5 RepliesOver the past few days I've been working on the car, a Canadian 2014 Elantra L 6-speed, in an attempt to install the keyless entry system into it.
- I found a wiring diagram online and for the most part its been working, gotten the tail lights/siren and just about every feature working excluding the doors themselves locking and unlocking.
From what I can tell, in order to get the mechanism to operate correctly a relay is needed and needs to be hooked up into, correct me if I'm wrong as the car isn't with me currently, Plug A and B (59 Pin and 24 Pin). However no matter the amount of configurations I have tried, it just will not work.
*Do not care for the trunk opening operation.
**The system I currently have is a Spy la-3 Pke keyless system.
First my security system started going off for no reason.Second the odometer quit working (it will go forward a few miles and then back a few miles).Third the running lights and headlights started flashing on and off. Not at a paticular interval but it seems to be as the "security warning light" flashes on and off. It is currently at Performance Chevrolet in Elizabeth City, NC and they have not been able to determine the problem. It has approximately 90,000 miles on it.
View 1 RepliesI have done 2 searches but came up with nothing regarding a 2010 LS 460L. My security system indicator lights are flashing 24/7 regardless of the car being locked or not. Page 113 is not very clear about how to shut them off. I played with so many buttons yesterday after we got home with the car I may have triggered something without even knowing it. I do not recall that they were doing that yesterday when we picked the car up.
View 13 RepliesTook my '08 F450 super duty into a reputable snow plow dealership and had them install a brand new plow on my truck. They phoned me this morning to say that the truck's security system does not recognize the key, possibly caused by the fact that they had to disconnect the battery during the plow install. So now my truck is stuck at their shop ! Just hoping I don't have to get it towed to a Ford dealership.
View 1 RepliesI bought 2002 3.0L Solara with some issues, one of being a miss fire. What should the resistance be, and which terminals should I be using?
View 1 RepliesI have a Lexus RX 330 2006. Two days ago my key couldn't start the car he stuck inside the ignition. I ordered a locksmith guy and he open the auto meter so he can get to the ignition. Now the ignition working but when I try to start the car the car doesn't start. The security system turn on and off , it's seem like the car doesn't recognize the key, the guy also make a new key and program the car but still the car is not charging, I also order mechanics to see if somethings wrong with the car and he didn't see any problem . I think the car shut down and I need professional guy who know how to program the car...
View 4 RepliesMy 1999 Saturn SL2 has had issues with its security system for years. It "chirps" intermittently, sometimes to the point of killing the battery. I've taken to unplugging the battery when I won't be using it for a few days so that the chirping doesn't get out of control. Often I'm not able to start the car right away, because the security system has been activated somehow. When this happens I have to unlock and lock the doors until the car starts. I used to be able to improve this by using the keyless entry system, but this very recently stopped working, even though the batteries are new. The security came with the car, and was definitely not installed after market.
My car has also suffered from water damage for a long time. The trunk initially was leaking. Since then the sunroof, drivers side window and rear window have all become leaky. I have fixed those with caulking, but nobody has been able to fix the trunk leak. (really quite significant; when I lived in Portland I sometimes had to siphon out several inches of water from the trunk). My theory is that the electric system might have water damage, but I've brought the car to several mechanics, including electrical specialists, and nobody has had any answers.