2005 camry SE I4. 333225 miles. Replaced radiator, thermostat, cap, and coolant. Still getting intermittent temp spikes. Spikes are 3-4 marks on gauge. Was pegging gauge with spikes before the change. What the heck else can it be? I flushed block and and water pump is only about 6 months old.
View 5 Replies2005 Elantra with around 92,000 miles. Two days ago the temp would spike while at idle not dangerously hot but would come close, the temp would cool down once i started driving. Cooling fans both work and coolant levels are good. Just yesterday the A/C just stopped working and car would come close to overheating while going down the road now.
View 10 Replies2005 Taurus - 6cyl - 3L - 85K. 2nd post on this on. Have had this vehicle to 2 mechanics now and problem is still there. First mechanic checked the refrigerant pressures, added dye, couldn't find a leak. Told me that he had to add a small amount of R134 and the pressures were "spot on" but the problem was still happenning so he supposedly trouble-shot the system and found it to be electrical. He said that the controls on the dash were causing the problem and changed them. When I picked it up, everything worked fine for the first day. After that, the same thing happenned where it would intermittently work.
I took it back to another mechanic (who specializes in AC work) and he evacuated and recharged the system (also said that he added dye and couldn't find any leaks). When I questioned this, he said the pressures were low and that would cause the intermittent loss of the AC cooling. This time, it work for 2 days and then the same thing happened where it intermittently works. There is no pattern at all to it working. Sometimes it's when the car is first started ; sometimes it quits just driving down the highway ; and sometimes it quits for 5 minutes and then just comes back blowing ice cold air. I suggested the AC compressor clutch or coil to the 2nd mechanic and I'm not sure he even checked it. Does this "still" sound like a leak somewhere or more electrical ?
Original owner of a 2005 Excursion 6.8l v10, 155k miles. About a month ago 10-15 minutes or so into my ride to work on a 50-60 degree morning the check gauges light comes on, noticed the temp gauge pegged to H followed by the check engine light, then limp mode. Turned on front & rear heaters and cold air was blowing. Pulled over, checked under the hood, coolant wasn't boiling, tank was 1/2 full and cold air was blowing thru radiator. 1st thought was T'Stat. So I removed T'Stat added some antifreeze & continued to work w/o a t'stat. Then had heat thru radiator & heat in front & rear heaters. Engine ran cool with no overheat issue.
Bought aftermarker T'Stat (slant) put that in and everything back to normal. About a month later same problem happens at about the same point in my trip to work, temp pegs, no heat from heater and goes into limp mode. Shut the truck off release pressure from radiator and coolant level goes down, seems to feed back into engine. Start the truck up temp goes back to normal and everything is fine for the rest of the day with several starts/stops. Bought FORD OEM T'Stat & replaced. Next morning same problem. So i think maybe there's an air pocket somewhere, add more coolant & fill to proper level when cold. next morning from cold start same problem. Coolant is clean, just changed oil and no coolant in oil. Problem only happens from a cold startup in the morning.
I'm at a loss. I'm thinking of drilling a small bypass hole in the T'Stat.
I have a 2007 6.0 that this has happened to twice now. It's fine around town but I never hear the can come on. Friday when on the interstate my my temp gauge started to rise past normal operating temperature before fan came on. Is this normal? After the fan came on it stayed at normal temp for the rest of trip....
View 5 RepliesMy 2005 Hyundai Elantra GLS has had 0 problems. It has about 132K on it, but it's still awesome.
I was stuck in some nasty traffic the other day in 95 degree NC weather, and was idling for about 15 minutes with the AC on. Out of nowhere, it felt like my AC got warm and I saw my coolant temp gauge spike from just under midway to 3/4 of the way. Unsettling.
As soon as I got on the gas and drove for about 5-10 seconds, it dropped precipitously back to normal. I was able to recreate this behavior once I got home. Normal driving results in normal temperature. Both fans appear to running.
My dealers charges $60 for this. Sounds like all they do is drain the radiator and refill with new anti-freeze. I recall when it used to mean drain the radiator, refill with clean water, run the engine, flush, and then refill with new anti-freeze. If all they do is drain the radiator and refill, I guess I can buy the anti-freeze and do it myself and save about $45. Or is there more to it than the service manager described?
View 7 RepliesI have a 2005 honda civic. About a month ago it started overheating. Drives Ok on the highway but heats up to the H mark almost as soon as I get off the highway. Have replaced the water pump, thermostat, radiator, flushed the system, most hoses, fan, 2 sensors, timing belt, spark plugs and had the head gasket checked 3 times by 2 different shops. Both said it was fine. The mechanic that has done most of the work is baffled. Says he has never seen anything like this and is at a loss as to what to do next. I am supposed to drive this car halfway across the country in a week to meet my husband who is in the air force. Should I just sell this piece of junk!?
View 10 RepliesCheck Charging System message, battery-shaped idiot light, and audible beep has happened a few times over the past month or so. Yesterday it happened while my wife was driving so I had to bring it to the dealer, not to mention I drove it last night and there was constant beeping for about a minute which was pretty annoying.
But first I had the battery checked, which turned out to be OK. Also we got a new alternator 5 months ago, installed by the dealer.
Today they said they "updated the computer" whatever that means, and otherwise couldn't find anything wrong. $99.85 plus tax.
Needless to say I'm not confident that "updating the computer" has fixed it. What are the odds we get the warning again in a couple of weeks? Short of disconnecting the sensor, is there anything that can be done?
Two weeks ago a large, industrial truck dropped a piece of bent steel pipe on the interstate in front of my 2010, 50k miles, Prius and (sadly) I was forced to hit or swerve into rush hour traffic and cause an accident. It tore up a good part of the cooling system and did some body damage. Of course I didn't know this at the time, but it began to overheat, so I pulled off the freeway and had it towed to a body shop. After about ten days, I got my Prius back.
View 13 RepliesIs it possible to use so much coolant system stop leak that you could clog the transmission cooling system?The fluid is burned and seems like I am having problems with gear shifting and power from the transmission. 2003 Olds Silhouette...
View 1 RepliesI am new to a 2005 camry SE V6 3.3 lt, Today tested the security system by; locking the doors using the keyfob and waiting for 30 seconds for the system to arm itself then opening the door from inside the car. No alarm went off !!
The security Red LED on the dash works properly and shows no sign of malfunction. I am not sure how to start troubleshooting.
i have a 2005 camry 4 cyl. and i have a couple of code: second o2 sensor, system too lean, misfire cyl. 1 2 3 and 4. when i run the car it is incredible how much gas it take.
I first replace the second o2 sensor and i cleaned the maf sensor, air filter, iac and trhotle body but the codes came again.
I have a 2004 freestar that cooling fans come on when engine gets to temp but not when I turn on ac it has 5 relays for the cooling fans and they run in series and a dropping resistor. Ithink someone replaced #2 relay with the wrong one and has caused my problem because they did not know what they were doing...
View 3 RepliesI've a 2000 Chevy Monte Carlo, 3.4 L engine, 110K miles. The cooling fan is making a intermittent loud noise for some reason or another. Can the motors be purchased separately or will I have to buy the entire cooling fan assembly? Also, could this be a bearing problem? The fan doesn't appear to be rubbing against anything. The fan is running after the engine is turn off although the engine wasn't real hot.................driven under 15 miles and fan came on and stayed on after turning off engine but finally stopped running.
View 5 RepliesI have a 2003 Subaru Forester. It will cool just fine while not moving. It will also cool just fine if I'm coasting down a hill with my foot off the gas. However, on the highway I have intermittent cooling. It cools for 10-15 seconds and then it blows what feels like straight vent for 10-15 seconds. It has a new compressor, receiver/dryer, and expansion valve and is fully charged.
View 3 RepliesI have a 2005 Toyota Camry XLE V6 and recently I went to unlock the door with the key and the car honked once; the horn hasn't gone off since when I tried unlocking the door again. I never use the key fob to lock or unlock the door just the key. I did call the dealership and they told me it was the security system activating, which I thought was funny since it never honked for the all years I used the key to lock and unlock the car. So my question is... is the dealership right? Should the car honk when I unlock the car with the master key?
View 4 RepliesMy 1994 honda accord station wagons cooling fan is working but the temp gauge still goes all the way up then back to normal numerous times while driving.. I park on the side of the road while the car is on, pop the hood to check and see any signs of over heating but the motor seems to be normal.. What could be happening??
View 10 RepliesSo CEL came on a few weeks ago as it does here and there so got it scanned today and it said "cooling system too lean" could it just be the mods throwing the light. car is tuned so i thought cel wasn't suppose to come on and no mods to the cooling system beside cold air intake..
View 6 RepliesMy MIL came on the other night so I brought it to the dealer today for diagnosis.
Per tech, "Found 1 DTC P2181 for cooling system malfunction, checked measuring values, found thermostat sticking open.
Recommendation is to replace thermostat with housing." I have 95K miles on the car, original owner...first time in a long time to have an issue.
The SA indicated the thermostat replacement. The tech indicated the thermostat is in the front of the engine which is hard to access.
Planning on doing a flush, but how do i bleed the air in the system after? is there a bleed bolt?
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