Camry :: 2005 - Only Starting When Engine Is Cold
Sep 10, 2015
1. 1 month before I change my car battery.
2. Last night, after coming from Office i.e., around 50 KM drive. I witched off the car and had my dinner, let say after a gap of at least 3 hrs, I try to restart my car again but I could not. Even I can notice that the battery is not discharged as all lights are functioning properly & even center lock is working fine.
3. Then I use another car for jump start then the immediate car started. After driving for another 25 km, I switched off the car & try to restart again but I failed.
4. Today, after a gap of almost 15 hrs, again I tried to start the car then immediately it got started without showing any difficulties.
5. Again after driving around 20 km, again I switched off the car & try to restart then its not restarting.
I am confused, what could be the problem. Sometimes, it starting when the engine is cold & sometimes it's not starting when the engine is hot.
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I drive a 2005 Camry SE. In the mornings, when I start it up for the first time, my engine almost...growls. That's the only word I can think of. Not even growl. But instead of purring like a kitten, it purrs like a tiger . And it's only when I first back it out and then take off. Once it's good and warmed up, it drives and sounds perfectly. Shifts beautifully.
And this morning, I let it warm up for awhile and it didn't make any noise when I took off.
I talked to my coworker about it and she said she had a similar issue with her 2004 Saturn Vue and it was something about a manifold, but couldn't remember what it was called. And she said her mechanic was able to fix it, but only temporarily and then told her it would cost her big bucks to fix it permanently.
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How to diagnose what I think is a failing alternator?
Here are the symptoms:
- Hard starting in cold weather
- Battery not at full voltage when truck is parked (usually around 11.5-12 volts. I have been putting a charger on it some nights)
- Lights seem to dim when I've got accessories running, like heater fan, heated seats etc. Lights get brighter with engine RPM, like when pulling away from an intersection.
What's my next step to diagnose this? I did a search, and didn't see anything. My battery is probably still under warranty, so if that's the issue, it should be a free fix. How hard is it to install an alternator in a 2005 with 5.4L engine?
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I've got a 2005 Camry 2.4L. Car won't start but it cranks. Got some codes being thrown:
P0010 (camshaft position 'A' Acuator circuit bank 1),
P0748 (Pressure control solenoid 'A' electrical),
P0778 (Pressure control solenoid 'B' electrical),
P2716 (Pressure control solenoid 'D' electrical).
Checked the ignition coils and all 4 are firing and sparking, sprayed some starter fluid in the throttle body and it didn't start. I'm also not hearing the fuel pump prime.
Additionally, I've tested the OCV by pulling it out and connecting it to 12v and its clicking like expected (cleaned it and put it back in - still won't start). I've also had the battery tested and it's fine. I pulled the camshaft sensor and cleaned it and tested it, and it tested fine as well.
When I tested the Crankshaft position sensor I got the ohm reading to be very high, higher than normal operation. Could this be allowing spark but also malfunctioning enough to not allow the fuel pump to prime and turn on fully?
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I have an 05 f250 6.0. We have started to reach 38 at night here in northern IL already. The trucks been having a rough time starting and it's not even that cold yet. Any recommendations on the truck that I can do to have easier starts. Sometimes cycling the glow plugs 4 5 6 7 times isn't enough to get her going. I plug it in most of the time on bitter days in the winter but sometimes I leave it parked where I cannot plug it in. The batteries seem just fine. I think one is a little weaker so I will get new batts.
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It levels off and idles fine after about 10-15 seconds but sometimes it idles so rough I think it's going to stall.
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So I have a weird situation. My Sonata GS with the 2.4 engine has trouble starting ONLY during cold weather (-2 or colder) if it's been sitting for a few hours. If the weather is warm, then it starts fine most of the time. The car tries to 'fire' for about 45 seconds before it does; and 'fires' with no hesitation at that point. The car runs fine, no hesitation or rough idle. I've cleaned the intake system to make sure it's not clogged or dirty, replaced the air filter, cleaned the MAP and throttle body. My battery died a few weeks ago, so I've even replaced that. What this could be? Everything I've researched or looked into would throw a code, or have symptoms while driving...yet it runs fine once it's started, and no codes/lights are showing. Don't want to just start swapping parts hoping to find the problem...
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I have a 2000 Accent with 90k miles. The last week or two, it takes about 5- 6 seconds of cranking to start when the engine is cold. Having had the car since new, I know that it's not normal.
The engine seems to crank strongly, and once started idles and drives well. This occurs once about every 4 starts when engine cold. Warm engine starts normal.
Changed plugs - no difference. Maintenance current per owners manual schedule.
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I have a 1.8t jetta that has a weird idle issue when starting and engine is cold it like to idle at 1200 rpm then will eventually work its way down to 800 rpm
I have no cel codes and have looked for vacuum leaks (but may have missed one) ,but if i start the car and it idles at 1200 rpm then i shut it down and start it right after it will idle at 800 rpm as normal.
Its a 1.8t unitronic stage 1 stock everything except e type coils with plugs at .032, Also does not have much pull after 4000 rpm, not to worried but just may be part of the issue....
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My daughter has a 2000 accent , SOHC 12V, I think it's the 1.5L.. It will not stay running when the engine is cold...........after it warms up, or if it sits in the hot sun it's fine................it has 166K .
She said she took it to an auto parts store and had the engine code read, p1123 came up.....
Code P1123 : Long term fuel trim, at idle - mixture too rich..
What do you think this is caused by................ the inlet air temp sensor? I was told someone just replaced the air max flow sensor, that don't sound correct to me, but that's what they called it....probably the MAF sensor....
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Today me and my son installed a new K&N air intake on his 98' passat 1.8t, everything looks good but when you start it up the engine does not idle properly and it now starting to smoke.. Also it is leaking some sort of black gunk out of the exhaust pipe, we didn't drive it but when you give it some gas it hardly accelerates.
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2005 Camry SE 2AZ-FE 4cyl 5 speed manual bought new well maintained 119000 miles. Makes a funny noise on cold start up when temp is below about 20 deg f just the first start up of the day. The noise sounds like a ZIP and is just for a second or 2 at the most. I can feel it in the steering wheel like a high frequency vibration. Seems like it's doing it at not quite as cold a temp but has been doing this since the first winter I bought the car new.
Hard to isolate without a second person standing out there in the cold, definitely coming from under the hood. I'm thinking it could be the idler pulley. Serpentine belt is original but has no cracks and is properly tensioned. Since it's done this since day one I'm hesitant to start pulling things apart. Car runs great aside from that. Mobil Super High Mileage oil 4,000 mi change interval, Toyota Filter always. The noise is just after the engine initially fires not starter related in my opinion.
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The a/c on my '05 Camry still puts out cool air, but not really cold anymore. I compare with my '08 Highlander that can still freeze your arms off in no time. We have had a warm spell lately, which is supposed to continue for another week, and while the Camry is putting out enough to eventually cool the air, it's just not up to it's usual standard. Are these a/c systems supposed to be sealed, and if so, is a leak the most likely reason ? I have not had it serviced in the past 3 years I've owned it. Is it worth it to try the "do-it-yourself" canned a/c service bottles or should I get the system pressure checked out first ?
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2006 Chevy Malibu Maxx. This just started a little while ago, before I replaced front brake pads. after I start the engine whether cold or hot, the brakes will pulse briefly when I step on them to get the car in gear. It feels like the ABS, but it only does after a fresh start, and not when braking. The car stops fine. The brake pedal is a little spongy, probably because I didn't bleed them, but the pulse was already happening so I don't think they are connected. there are no warning lights on at all. Also, it doesn't do it 100% of the time, maybe 80 to 85%.
In order to bleed I guess I need a scan tool, but the bleeding procedure is a bi-directional function which is not supported by most of the gizmos available. Know of one that might work without spends thousands?
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My 09 Sonata LTD V6 was sometimes idling erratically (revving and slowing) after starting a cold engine. It never happened in the previous 3 winters I have owned it. I took it to the dealer for service and they said an ECM update was just released, described on the invoice as "TSB 10FL002 FOR COLD START ROUGH IDLE".
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Our 2010 Ford Fusion Hybrid has been great and trouble free. Recently, however, we've noticed a strong smell,like fiberglass, come from the A/C when starting from a cold engine.
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I'm needing cold engine misfire. 2001 escape 3.0 engine 190300 miles on it. I changed the plugs, cleaned the fuel injectors, new air filter, new fuel filter, cleaned the pcv valve and new ideal control valve. When the engine is cold it starts right up but wont idle right and misfires sputters some to but run the rpm's up and it smooths out. drop to idle and it misses. Now when the engine gets to operating temp it seems to run fine. What am I overlooking to find the problem?
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2005 Toyota Matrix. I know, bad year. Occasionally, I turn the keys in the ignition and I can hear the starter initiating, but the engine doesn't turn over. It's a seldom occurrence, sometimes lasting 5 minutes, sometimes 30, usually 2-3 times a week(car driven 4-5 times daily). Usually best practice for me is to walk away from the car for a time and come back later to try it. Shorter trips and rainy months tend to increase the problem. Took to Toyota dealer: replaced EMU(three times), oxygen sensor and fuel pump. None of which made any impact on problem. Dealership as never actually SEEN the problem, despite holding it for an entire week. Where should I have them poke around next?
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On cold mornings here in California, like most older cars with high mileage, it makes some ticking/valve sounds until I fully warm up my car after a mile or two of driving. At that point, the sounds disappear.
I've noticed that if I blip the ignition or turn over the engine without starting the car, when starting up on cold mornings, it doesn't make valve lash noise or ticking when I pull out of the garage.
I chalk it up to the fact that I "threw" some oil on top the head before starting up the engine fully. I've only done this maybe 5 times since I found out.
Car: 99 Civic w/ 217k+ miles.
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I bought a 2005 Camry about 3 months ago. It has the 2.4l 4 cyl with about 139k miles. The car seems to run perfect, but it has a rattle noise right at start up on cold mornings. It only lasts for the initial 1/2 second start up, then it's gone. I'm thinking it's probably just a heat shield rattle or something, I just did a full synthetic high mileage oil change on it and that didn't work, so that just makes me lean more towards heat shield.
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I took my wife's 05 Solara to the dealer for the pully recall recently and had the serpentine belts replaced while they had them off. Now there is a short belt squeak during cold start up only. I called the dealer and they said to bring it back which I plan to do asap. 2005 3.3 V-6 Solara ....
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