2005 Camry LE with 4 cylinders , the problem now is it will stall after warm up. To drive it to 60mph speed, it will take 2 time than normal. very slow accelerating.
Will stall after 20 second car complete stop, and will not turn over after 5-10 minute later. I had all 4 new Denso spark plugs and Fuel injectors, clean Maf sensor, clean throttle body, replace coolant temperature sensor.
Stalls when warmed up. Runs great when cold. Replaced coolant sensor and cleaned mass airflow sensor. Cleaned throttle body. Checked for codes but nothing there. Reset the idle a few times by disconnecting/reconnecting the battery.
View 6 RepliesI have a 2005 XLE 4 cyl with 68K miles and a few weeks ago noticed the start of something odd... As the car goes from what appears to be 3-4th gear about 30 mph, there is a push in the rpm about 2-300 and then it shifts. It is not a hard shift, nor does it occur every time. Havent correlated it to first ride of the morning or increased based on being warm etc. Ive had no DTC codes. About 6K ago had transmission fluid flushed, front axles, ball joints, wheel bears, struts and hubs were replaced due to one side failing. Yesterday I brought it into the dealer and they were unable to reproduce. Only thing they found was ABS sensor codes- tested the sensors and found them to be working... Oddly enough, my wife mentioned a flashing brake light a few times when she drove the car recently(I drive it usually and have not seen such.)She is not a good historian so I cant find out if it was abs or brake light.
Transmission fluid is full, looks jut like when it was put in, without any metal shavings.
I purchased a sub for alldata and there are no tsb's for this vehicle that relate to anything like this.
Is it possible that there is an issue with these sensors causing this shifting symptom?
I have a 2005 4Cyl Camry - transmission replaced under warranty at 89K. The car now has 150K and I have been having a couple tranny issues recently.
Most alarming - When the car is warm and you shift from Park to Drive the car hesitates for 3-5 seconds before it slams into Drive.
Now the car threw a CEL about a month ago. Took into the Toyota and they took a look at it. Said the code was related to 3 Shift Sensor Solenoids, so they cleared the codes and took the car for a test drive and said "all clear" car is fine and there's nothing wrong.
I'm wondering if one of the sensors is going bad and it just isn't throwing a code yet.
Recently I have been experiencing some rough and low idles with my 1MZ-FE 05' Camry. The car runs idles perfectly fine and drops to the correct idle when cold, however if the engine has been running at normal temperature and started again soon after the idle drops extremely low until the throttle is opened.
I have cleaned the throttle body with with throttle body cleaner a number of times, although I haven't taken the IAC valve out and cleaned it separately. I have also heard that the Engine Coolant Temp valve may be going bad. Could my symptoms fit this?
I had a dodgy EGR sensor not long ago that was giving me rough idles on a cold start, however I managed to mitigate that problem a by cleaning simply removing the sensor and giving it a quick clean. I don't think that this is the cause but I can't be sure.
I haven't had the spark plugs or fuel filter changed in a while although I'm unsure that these would be the problem if the idle was rough and low only when the engine was warm.
I have a sludge problem with this a 2008 infinity EX 35 . The car was initially stalling and had been in service at the dealership several times . Error codes were present and they didnt know what the cause was . They replace spark plugs and tried to find a bandied rather find the cause , Now they are claiming they cant do anything for the sludge issue and blaming it on poor maintenance .. the oil was changed ever 3000 . they have the records of this also. They talked about flushing the engine , but stated it doesn't work Is this vehicle prone to sludge . Its only running on 5 cylinders instead of 6 per dealer.
View 7 RepliesI have a 2005 Camry and it was stalling while driving occasionally. It had gotten worse, so I cleaned the throttle body as was suggested. Now, when I try to start it, the engine revs really high then goes back down and dies. This is without putting any pressure on the accelerator. What to do next?
View 1 RepliesI have a 89 chevy 1500, 5.7 pick up. I beleive it's referred to as the c/k series.
Recently I've been having some issues with stalling. When the engine is cold everything runs fine but after warm up I've noticed the problem start occurring.
When I'm doing a slow turn ( any direction) , backing up, or in stop and go traffic, the truck want to stall when I touch the gas pedal. Once I get past the intial slight throttle it picks up and does fine.
I've replaced the distributor cap and rotor, plugs and wires, fuel filter and even the fuel pump( mainly because it never gauged fuel correctly but I thought it might have a pressure issue).
Nothing seems to work and I'm not getting any codes.
I have a 99 explorer AWD with the 5.0. It runs fine when the motor is cool or just bopping around town, But when it warms up or you have drove for 10 or 15 miles on the hwy, it stalls to about 150 RPM it stays that way for about 20 or 30 seconds then take off again for about 100 yards then repeats. It throws a code for a minor leak in the EVAP system and that is it...
View 6 RepliesI have owned my 2011 Tiguan VW since new. This winter it has developed a stalling problem after a warm start. It has never did this from a cold start. Just after I have been driving, stop for 20min to an hour, come back and start it. What happen is the car starts fine, I put it in drive and start to drive away, when I get about 50 feet, the engine cuts out. The only light on the dash are the battery light. I put it in neutral and it starts right back up. It doesn't do it every time, about every tenth time; just infrequently enough so it catches me off guard every time.
View 1 RepliesMy 1998 Dodge Neon has been stalling after it is warmed up. It runs great when the engine is cold but once the temperature gauge gets to the middle it stalls no matter how fast or slow I’m going. Once it stalls it won’t start for about 10 to 15 minutes while the engine cools a little. Then it will start and run fine for a few more minutes until the gauge reaches the middle and it will stall again. I’ve had my cam sensor, crank sensor, and ignition coil replaced and the problem hasn’t been fixed. When I bring it to the garage they tell me that no problem codes are showing up and by the time they look at it, it has cooled down enough to run and they can’t see a problem.
View 2 RepliesI have a nissan patrol turbo diesel 2002 automatic. It starts fine idles fine drives fine for a bit then wen at operating temp it randomly loses power and stutters and sometimes stalls. It also shoots smoke out of exhaust wen this happens. It also seems to mainly happen at higher speeds. Engine light came on also. It starts straight away again even idles fine straight after but once it starts happening. I need to leave it for a while or go like 70 or less to be able to drive it.
View 4 Replies2004 Jeep Grand Cherokee Laredo 4WD, 6 cylinder car is in Tallahassee, florida and when the temperature is warm outside in the spring and summer and the car has been driven for awhile and is stopped (like for shopping) and you try to start it again, it will not start. However if you wait for awhile like 20-45 minutes the car will start but will rough idle for a little while and then it will smooth out and go ok. This appears to be random and does not happen in the fall and winter months.
View 1 RepliesMy 1994 volvo 240 stalls at idle when the engine is warm. It's happening more frequently as the weather gets colder, I'm not sure if that's a coincidence. The car is an automatic and I'm wondering if it could be something as simple as low transmission fluid.
View 1 RepliesMy 9-2 is misfiring on cylinders 2 and 4. At first we suspected a timing issue but that doesn't appear to be the case. My mechanic is looking at it but can't seem to locate the problem... so far:
- replaced old spark plugs
- checked the coils (moved them to see if the misfiring followed the coils--it did not)
- checked the timing belt (all good)
- compression is good
- fuel coming in is rich
He's dropping the exhaust today to check things from that end... A faulty mass airflow sensor wouldn't effect specific cylinders would it? and we'd see a degradation in the fuel richness right?
I have a 2005 Toyota Avalon Limited with 106k miles. Check engine light detected Cylinder misfire in cylinders 3 and 4 at 99K even though I didn't feel the car driving any differently. At the time I was planning to drive the vehicle across the country and so maybe I freaked out, but a friend and I replaced all the spark plugs and coils at the same time (I knew the back 3 were a real pain).
Then at around 104K miles (after letting car sit for 8 weeks) I noticed my car was jumping a bit while idling at lights and the RPMs would dip about 50-100. It felt like I was running out of gas even though the tank was full. For the last 2k miles the idle problem has gotten slightly worse and I think I can even detect a misfire while driving in hilly terrain (although this could just be the oft complained about jerking transmission issues that plague the Avalon). There is NO check engine light illuminated and no codes.
what may be causing my car's idle to dip? It can't be the new plugs and coils already can it? How can I tell if there is a leak somewhere or if the fuel injectors are dirty?
What to do Misfire Error all cylinders also coil code P0356 . It is 2006 Avalon Ltd with 37,000 miles always maintained and all recalls completed. Is there something I missed or is this for real or could there be a common problem that is causing all the errors. Car idles ok and no problem driving below 60 mph anything over and you can fell a shutter like it will lose power.
View 14 Replies I have a 2005 F150 with the 5.4L V8. It has 70,000 miles on it and until yesterday and has been a great truck. While driving in traffic yesterday the truck started running rough and hesitating. It through two codes - misfire cylinder 5 and misfire cylinder 6.
In response, I purchased two new coils and 8 new autolite plugs. The plug installation went smoothly and the coils all went on without incident. However, this didn't fix the problem!
The next day I found that cylinders 5, 6, 7, and 8 were all having issues. At this point I also had an "O2 stuck lean" code so I pulled the plugs and found all four brand new plugs fouled and smelling like gas and an exhaust that smelled like raw fuel. This led me to replace the O2 sensor on the drivers side. With the new O2 my lean code disappeared but I still had a rough idle.
Further troubleshooting found that injector 6 was stuck open (which presumably fouled my O2 causing it to read lean and dump fuel thus fouling all the plugs on one side). I replaced the injector and the rough idle disappeared and all seemed really well as the truck idled in my driveway.
However, as soon as I hit the road I noticed a major hesitation. The motor is also noticeably louder and has a very hard time accelerating. I'm thinking that I've plugged up my cat by dumping so much fuel in to it and the hesitation is caused by a lack of breathing - does this sound possible? How would I confirm this without replacing the cat? Anything else I should look for? I'm fairly confident I have combustion in all 8 cylinders now so I'm leaning towards intake/exhaust issues.
My cylinder heads as well as the camshafts on my 2005 F550 are grinding down, now I need to replace them again, I bought the truck and had the same issue. I am just curious if the oil cooler is the one at fault since i just replace before I knew of the issue.
View 7 RepliesI'm getting Codes: P0300-306 (Misfires) and P0356.
I have researched the definitions of these codes and see that P0356 indicates an ignition coil failure on coil "F" (which would be Cylinder 6?)... but how is it possible only one coil is failing but I'm getting multiple/random misfires on all cylinders?
I've looked at the wiring diagrams and the only place that I can see a "single point failure" that can cause such a thing, would be the ECM itself...
Long story: I have a 2005 Chevy Malibu base. About more than a month ago I was driving home from work my car stalled about 3 times. I was able to finally get home I checked the oil and to my shock there was none. I quickly put some in and my car started just fine didn't stall again. I drove it the next day nothing. Then the day after that I drove it to Walmart on the way back it stalled like 7 times and after that last time it wouldn't turn on. I got it towed to a shop where my car remained for over a month. The crank position sensor was replaced, the battery, and the ignition switch. I was told it was fixed, picked it up drove it to a town 30 minutes away it was fine, then drove it back it started stalling every 5 minutes.
Managed to take it back to the shop, they couldn't figure out why it was shutting off so they got a second opinion at a Chevy dealership nearby and they replaced the ignition control module. I picked up my car drove it around for awhile and the check engine light came on I was near pepboys they checked the code which said I needed to get the catalytic converter check/replaced. So I drove my car home. Next day drove it all day it stayed on, thought my problem was solved. Then that evening turned it on and within a few minutes the engine shut off and now it won't start at all. The mechanics that I took it to obviously don't know what the issue is nor do the mechanics at Chevy. It is not the fuel pump that's one things that can be crossed out. Or is my car done and should be junked?