Camry :: 2005 LE Sputtering On Low RPM
Dec 29, 2012
I have Toyota Camry 2005 LE, 151.000 miles ( first owner) ... Few months back I noticed that my Camry is sputtering on low RPM below 2000 ( but never when engine is cold ).... Car is driving perfect on the highway but in the city sputtering get very annoying when on low RPM and high gear.
My remedy for that is to press overdrive off. button after this sputtering always goes away.
I checked spark plugs they look clean, I changed PCV valve, oxygen sensors, I clean mass air flow sensor, new throttle body was installed 2 years ago, new catalytic converter a year ago. There are no OBD codes ...
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I have Toyota Camry 2005 LE, 180.000 miles ( first owner )
Few months back I noticed that my Camry is sputtering on low RPM below 2000 ( but never when engine is cold )
Car is driving perfect on the highway but in the city sputtering get very annoying when on low RPM and high gear.
My remedy for that is to press overdrive off button after this sputtering always goes away.
My transmission fluid level when HOT is 1 inch above HOT mark
And when in cold next ( morning ) label is still above HOT mark
Fluid level never goes down to COLD mark
What are the cause of the tran fluid be on same level and can sputtering be the symptom of it?
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My van (Mazda MPV 2005) has been sputtering while driving for a while. Now I am dying at redlights when trying to accelerate after I have driven longer than a quick trip. I have had 4 mechanics work on my van and all of them, in the end, shrug their shoulders and tell me that they don't know what the problem is.
The first thing (seemed unrelated at the time) was a PCV hose replaced along with 2 coils.
A few months later the engine light came on (now it stays on) and the code reads P2179 (Fuel system too lean at off idle [left bank]) So then, the Idle Air Control Valve was replaced. I had the third mechanic replace the Air Mass Meter Boot and 2 days later the problem came back. He checked the MAF sensor which was good and he gave it back and told me he didn't know what it could be. Lastly, I took it to a dealership and they thought it was the Lower Intake Manifold Gasket, which got replaced. They also checked the O2 sensor, it is good. Within a couple of days I noticed the problem was still there. I also had a friend who is a mechanic pull out the fuel pump and it was in working order.
To top it all off, I now hear an odd "boing boing boing" coming from underneath my van when I have driven the van for a while and park.
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I have a 2007 camry xle v6. Ihad some sputtering in car and check engine with "check vsc" came on. Autozone free codes said misfires detected in cylinder 3 and 4,and a code about ignition coils.. Had a freelance mechanic change the parts and said best was to change all coils, but I couldn't buy all,especially after seeing price.. So I only changed for 3 and 4 as well.... got car back... drove to work, ran good I'd say.... but steering wheel was jiggling as well.... I thought it was just some wheel/tire associated thing..... parked later on and car is sputtering now.. almost like every 1.5 seconds...what to do ? aside from taking back to mechanic, which ill do...
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I Purchased a used 2005 . Everything was great all weekend long, but this morning, the car started shaking as I was driving it down the road. I drove my 55 mile commute, parked and took my son in to preschool. The shaking started when I left the school. As I was driving (around 45 mph, accelerating to 55 on flat road), the car had some definite shaking like a sputtering shake, but there was no sputtering noise.
No engine lights are on. Could this be a balancing issue rather than an engine issue? Or possibly a joint? Do these cars even have a flex joint?
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It started completely unexpectedly about a month ago when I was driving around 70kmh while cruising. I would get a few "jerks" of a sputter, then was able to drive a km or 2 before it did it again. I drove to a friends and he got in, and the sputtering episode was over.
Since then, I cannot simulate the way I was driving to make it sputter for any mechanic, but I have been getting sputter on and off the last month.
The one time I got in the truck and started it, put the truck in drive, and it sputtered for a few seconds. I wasnt driving at all this time. This was the only time It sputtered in a stading position.
Here are a few points to maybe, narrow down what happens.
-I am usually driving around 70-90kmh
-I am usually under no loads (not towing, hauling etc).
-My mileage seems to be getting worse.
-this was normally happening not only when the engine was warm, but when it was warm outside and I was driving it for a longer period.
-When I started driving my truck I calculated around 16mpg city. I am currently getting around 13-14. I was on the hiway for around 250 km and got 14mpg. Seems I get better mileage when puttering through the city than when I am on the highway.
I had the truck in to a dealer 2 weeks ago. They did an injector flush, new sparkies, number 5 coil, and took me for $780, saying the problem is fixed.
A few days ago, I was driving on the onramp to the highway accelerating around 90kmh and for around 4-5 seconds I was sputtering and jerking so bad I thought I was done for. The truck finally recovered and again, haven't had any episodes since.
The dealership says their electrician doesn't know what to do, and would need my truck for 4-5 days to try to see the problem for himself. I can only think, as a non-mechanic, that it is something to do with some sensor, possibly a fuel, and/or oxygen sensor.
2005 F-150
4.6
88000km
gas
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I have a 2005 Subaru Legacy wagon with 190k. The exhaust(original) has a tiny hole in a pipe that looks like Y and splits to the two mufflers.
Can some thing like this get repaired or do you have to replace the entire exhaust?
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2005 Ford F250 6.0 Diesel (bought new). Never had a problem with the engine until about a month ago. Engine has 220,000 miles on it. Oil and filters changed regularly. Ran low (not out) of fuel, started sputtering badly but not killing. Filled up with diesel. Ran better, managed to get home. The next day it was dead. Crank but no start. Since then I have done the following (not in order):
- Changed EGR
- Changed ICP
- Changed IPR
- Changed the STC fitting
- Changed all seals in the HPOP
- Changed glow plugs and harnesses
- Tested each fuse and relay
- Installed new batteries
- FICM tested 48V
- Changed motor oil and filter
- Changed both fuel filters
- Checked for water in the fuel
- Purged air from fuel line
- Replaced dummy plugs
- No codes
- Prayed the rosary
One month later, still crank no start. Thinking about using it as target practice with the AR-15.
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What's the deal with making fuel filters difficult to replace? My engine has started sputtering (cutting in and out) and I began to wonder if it was the fuel filter. So, I investigated how to change it. Apparently it's part of the fuel pump and located in the fuel tank -- good grief.
A filter is there to catch stuff, and if it catches stuff it can get clogged, if it gets clogged it has to be replaced. It appears they put in the filter to catch stuff but assumed it never would.
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We have a 2012 camry with about 65,000 miles on it. Recently we've noticed that when the car is in a high gear (5th or 6th) and the RPMs are around 1000-1200 the car feels like its sputtering/shaking. almost like its in too low of a gear. Kind of feels like you're driving on a very rough road.....it happens when you're driving around 35-45mph with your foot barely on the gas. if i give it a little more gas to get the RPMs a little higher it's ok. other than this the car runs perfectly fine. Don't notice any issues on the highway. I don't have any CEL.
initially i thought it had something to do with the torque converter issue that folks were notified by in the mail. we already had the update done but that's not it. The more i research this i think it's probably a fuel/spark issue like dirty injector or bad wire.... I dont think its the trans.
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What would cause a sputtering noise to come from the engine but only after a cold start meaning starting in the morning and after work but goes away after I drive for a min or two and doesn't come back until the next morning or after work. It sounds almost as if say you had a hole in your flange and drove it around. Its really weird it happens a few times a week for the psst 2 weeks but hasn't happens ever before that. Could it be the water pump in its way out? Oil levels fine fluid wise everything topped off.
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Today my engine started making loud sputtering sounds, I checked the oil and it was completely gone based on the dipstick. I was shocked since I had an oil change not so long ago. My current millage is 103,500 i assume now at such a millage that oil consumption is very high. I poured some 5-20 synthetic oil in, but my engine continues to make sputtering sounds however, they are less audible now. Is it possible my engine is damaged?
Here's a recording of the engine sounds up close : [URL] .....
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I changed the spark plugs in my daughters 2003 camry, and now it is sputtering and and hesitating. is there a chance I put them in to tight? The check engine light is on, and it will start blinking for a few seconds and then stop blinking and remain on when the car gets up to speed. The car wasn't doing this before the sparkplug change.
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I have a 4 cylinder '98 Toyota Camry with 82k miles on it. I got the car second hand from a family friend 7 months ago. About 3 months ago, my engine would sputter and then shut off when I'd start slowing down below 30mph and stopping at lights after I'd been on the interstate. Issue occurs only when I've accelerated quickly during that drive (ie accelerating hard to go up a hill to merge or to pass a slow car).
When I need to stop, if I'm fast enough to get the gear in neutral, hold down the break and rev the engine at the same time, then it most likely won't shut off. It's like trying to do CPR on my car... The spark pugs have been replaced, oil changed, and fluid levels checked but the problem still happens. What could be the problem??
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This morning I was at a stop light and my car started to sputter and as I accelerated it drove just fine. Then it happened again at another stop and also while going uphill it sputtered and bogged down. Could it be a bad fuel pump? Or maybe I need a tune up?
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2005 5.4L She would have a hard time starting before but after I replaced and fixed everything below she was running really good. Now back to sputtering, taking a long time to start and now not starting at all.
I have replaced; Fuel Pump, Fuel Filter, FPDM, Plugs and COP's, FRP Sensor, followed the power wire from the FDPM and found it corroded bad so I replaced it, also changed the ground location on the FDPM, I have checked all the wires from the FDPM to the drivers seat, checked all fuses.
I have power to FPDM and I have the diagram for the plug but how can I test (hotwire) the Fuel Pump without lowering the fuel tank? What should be the voltage coming from the FPDM plug? not sure about pin 1 & 6.
How can I test the FRP sensor? what are the specs for voltage?
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I have 2005 Camry. The trunk will not open with any key, remote key fob, release next to seat or even crawling through back seat and using emergency release. There is nothing in the trunk. A liner prevents me from seeing the actual latch.
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Recently, I've been looking into making a copy of my ignition key for my 2005 Camry SE. I bought a blank on eBay, had it cut to fit my master key, and it works fine for locking and unlocking the doors. However, since it is a Transponder Key, apparently I need to program it in some way to use it for ignition.
I've been looking all over for instructions on how to do this, and have tried this commonly repeated method, with no success:
1. Simultaneously depress and release brake and accelerator pedals 1 time.
2. Insert an original Master Key into the ignition but do not turn it.
3. Within 15 seconds depress and release accelerator pedal 5 times.
4. Within 20 seconds depress and release the brake pedal 6 times and remove key.
5. Within 10 seconds insert New Key into ignition but do not turn it.
6. Within 10 seconds depress and release the accelerator pedal 1 time.
7. Now sit and wait for about one minute until the security light in the center counsel stops blinking and turns off.
8. Remove new key and depress and release brake pedal 1 time.
9. Test your key now. It should work if you followed the instructions. If not, you may want to try the following instructions:
To reiterate, these instructions have not worked for me.
Have any other 2005 Camry SE owners managed to program a key successfully? What method did you use?
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I have a problem with my 2005 Camry (bought recently - 186000 KM) , the check engine light is on again, I had this problem before but all I did was just tighten the gas cap and the light went of , but this time it wont go off, I reset the battery and tighten the gas cap but nothing happened the light still ON !
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Stalls when warmed up. Runs great when cold. Replaced coolant sensor and cleaned mass airflow sensor. Cleaned throttle body. Checked for codes but nothing there. Reset the idle a few times by disconnecting/reconnecting the battery.
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My fog lights were working fine until one day I noticed they didn't turn on with the rest of the lights until I switched all of the lights off and then back on. Some weeks later I noticed that the fog lights do not turn on at all. The fuses look good, the bulbs are good, and I don't think it has a dedicated relay. Any break in the wire?
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