Camry :: 2005 - Hood Will Not Stay Up
Nov 13, 2015
I just bought a 2005 Camry with a 4cyl engine and the hood will not stay up. There is only 1 strut under the hood. Should there be 2? Also what kind should work well without spending a lot on it (them)...
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2005 Camry a/c will not stay charged. Charge it up works about a week then loses Freon. A/C machine finds no problem when pulling vacuum or charging. Is there one place where most 2005's leak their Freon? Can't find any threads listing a major problem other than the blinking A/C light, which mine is fine.
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When the hood comes right back down does that mean I just have to replace the gas shock that opens and closes it?
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I have a 2008 Chevy Impala that I've owned for going on six months. It's treated me very well. I'm just now getting ready to give it a nice wash/interior cleaning this evening, but I noticed while cleaning under the hood just now that I cannot get the hood to stay up on it's own. I'm not sure what the issue is. I keep nudging it gently, but that's not working. As recently as yesterday I had the hood up when I was checking the oil...it stayed just fine.
Of course, the pre-2014 Impala generation has hoods without the manual supports. So what might the problem be here? I figure this car is a little new to be having a problem like this.
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I got to replace mine because the hood won't stay up on it's own and is heavy to lift. I was wondering if these things fail often. Mine is an '08.
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My 2003 camry LE 4 cyl cooling/radiator fans stay on all the time. As soon as I turn the ignition key both radiator fan start to spin even though the car is cold and not on. I checked all the relays and fuses. Checked the voltage on the coolant sensor harness with ignition switch on, there is no 5v or the green pin is not grounded. I am clueless where to go next.
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I have a 2005 Prius and the car will not stay in D but starts up fine in zero degree weatther.
I can only go forward in the B mode until the car warms up.
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i have a 2005 chevy malibu classic. a few months ago it started sputtering when we would try to crank it and would take several tries before it would run, then it stopped. So far we have replaced the fuel filter, fuel pump, fuel pressure regulator, idle air control valve and crankshaft sensor, and it still wont stay running when you try to give it the gas, it dies....
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We have a 2007 Limited that we love everything about except the way the transmission downshifts to first gear when it seems to me it should stay in second. My inlaws have a 2007 XLS and it doesn't do this. This is our third Avalon and the only one to do this. The dealer we bought from says this is normal but I strongly disagree. Is there a service bulletin on this or what else can be done.
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My girlfriend's 2005 Jetta has started intermittently leaving its lights on after she locks the car. It seems to happen with the fob OR with the keys in the lock. It started a few weeks ago with just the left rear turn signal. Now it is starting to do all four corners and the repeater on the front fenders.
The lights don't blink, they stay on solid usually after doing the normal "lock blink" and noise. This obviously drains the battery so we've had to jump it a few times.
How to fix this? To me it is obviously something electronic, but I didn't know if I should look to replace relays/fuses/wires/etc.
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I have a 2005 Prius with 57,500 miles on it. Some times (not all the time) I get a buzzing sound from under the hood at start up. This noise is a buzzing sound, not the usual whiring sound. This buzzing will continue until the ICE starts. It seems to happen more if the car has sat for a couple of days or the morning is cold. Once the buzzing has stopped, it stays stopped for the rest of the day. I do not think that it is the brake pump since it continues as the car backs out of the garage (on battery) and the brakes are off, but stops at ICE start a few seconds later. Could this be the inverter cooling pump?
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I recently bought a beautiful 2005 6.8L V10 Excursion with ~90k miles. While looking under the hood, I noticed a loose cable. See attached pictures. Where it may have come off?
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I have a 2006 Avalon and for the last 2 weeks the VSC and Check engine lights have been coming on and stay on for 2 days and goes off.
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My transmission seems to stay in lower gear than needed on highway. Tach speeds are 2500 @ 55 and closer to 3000 @60-65. Is this normal?
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My 05 f-150 Supercrew 5.4l, will start for a second and then die. I can sometimes feather it and rev it up, but it dies as soon as you let off. I changed the fuel filter and while we had the lines off we turned the key on and it pumped fuel but only for a few seconds. Shouldn't the pump run constantly with an open line?
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So I have a crack that has grown from underneath my hood all the way to the middle . Can this be a defect ? I have an 2006 avalon.
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Is there a simple way to stay on the Audio screen instead of showing the Navigation map? If I hit Audio it ends up going to the nav map after about 10 seconds. I don't want to turn off the screen completely.
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05 Chrysler T&C washer spray will only work with hood up and the hood down but not locked. Once locked the washer spray will not work. I tried crimping the small hose front left that that I thought might be the washer sprayer supply but the spray still worked with the hood up.
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My battery want stay charged in my Mercury. I want to know if the light control module could cause it to drain....
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I bought an hid kit for my 2005 f250 the dog lights work fine but the headlights won't stay on. They come on for about 30 seconds then shut off. How to fix this. I've swapped the ballast with the fog light ballast and it does the same thing.
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Lately my 2002 v6 has been smelling like it's burning oil from under the hood. Around the front exhaust manifold, there's a wet black "powder" type substance. Oil levels are fine and the car has also been driving without any issues. The car hasn't overheated but then again, I live in NJ where the temperatures don't go above 35F.
I'll be posting a picture tomorrow.
The car has 144k and the timing belt, water pump, spark plugs were done at 120k.
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