I have a problem with my 2005 Camry (bought recently - 186000 KM) , the check engine light is on again, I had this problem before but all I did was just tighten the gas cap and the light went of , but this time it wont go off, I reset the battery and tighten the gas cap but nothing happened the light still ON !
View 2 RepliesSince I've owned the car, which i got in December of 2013, the engine light has been on and off. The previous owner, who drove it off the lot in 2004, was a family member who took it to a mechanic multiple times. Multiple mechanics said it was the gas cap. I replaced the gas cap back in February 2014. The engine light still comes on and occasionally goes off.
Here's some information I've gathered driving the car since then
Straight highway mileage tops out at 28 MPG. Only city/town driving yields about 19/20 mpg, so the gas mileage is okay
Last weekend, I drove around on maine roads for the whole weekend, spending about 90% of the driving time doing 50+ on roads. The engine light successfully went off and stayed off for the longest period of time since i've owned the car.
The rust situation on the car is extremely minor, except for some rusted fittings. Frame rust and general surface rust is non existant except on certain pieces that can be replaced (struts, tie rods, ect) However, there is one piece that looks shitty, which is the spacer between the exhaust header out of the engine and the engine block.
The code the car puts out is either a catalytic system failure or catalytic system operating below threshold. There is a new catalytic converter in the last 3 years, so I highly doubt that's at fault (not to mention the engine light manages to stay off for the yearly inspection and it passes emissions no problem).
I bought a 2005 Camry 4cyl yesterday and realized today that the check engine light was not coming on when turning the ignition on. I put my dtc tool on the car and got these codes. Getting P0300 ,P0303, p0304 & p0012 . Not sure where to start looking.
View 4 RepliesMy 2005 Camry check engine light is on. The trouble code is P0138, bank 1 sensor 2 oxygen sensor. Engine is the 2AF-ZE. Not a California emission car. Car is Japan built. It has two O2 sensors. What is the correct OEM part #? I believe it would be a Denso?
View 2 Replies2005 camry 3.0, engine would not go above idle, check engine light on, vsc light and trac off light. codes, 2122 pedal position sensor circuit, 121 throttle position sensor, 505 idle air control, 2111 throttle actuator control valve stuck open, 2121 pedal position sensor. After checking online found many people who have had the throttle bodies fail, removed intake hoses and with the key on engine off actuator throttle. throttle valve did not open but could hear the amperage increase to the motor as the pedal was pushed further.
Replaced throttle body with a used one and checked operation. valve open fully and smoothly. cleared faults, vehicle was fine for approx. two weeks, then the same thing happened. replaced throttle body again with a used one and vehicle was fine for a day. Now the same occurrence. Checked fuses, wiring and connectors and all seem okay. Pedal position sensor fail? What is the likelihood of this happening? Is the throttle body once again suspect?
How to raise the engine on a 2005 4 cyl Camry. Off hand I am thinking that the 3 motor mounts need to be disconnected. What else would need to be disconnected? I do have an engine hoist that I can use - .
View 4 RepliesMy 2005 Camry XLE 3.0 V6 is exhibiting engine jerkiness over 55MPH. The OBD II reader shows a group of codes:
0300 Random/Multiple Cylinder Misfire
0301 Cylinder 1 Misfire detected
0303 Cylinder 3 Misfire detected
0171 System Too Lean Bank 1
2195 Sensor Signal Stuck Lean bank 1 sensor 1
From what I can find in the forum I cant quite tell whether I should be looking at bad gas, overfill of oil, vacuum leak or bad O2 sensor (the expensive one before the cat).
Changing the gas or checking the oil is easy enough. where would one look for the vacuum leak that would cause this type of problem? Is getting the O2 sensor out of the upper bank as much of a beast as it sounds in some of the threads (better left to a "real" mechanic?).
My 2005 Toyota Camry has developed this rattling noise that is always there when the engine is on. When the engine is at higher RPMs, it becomes more noticeable. Here is a quick video I took of the noise for the audio of it..
It was too dark for me to check tonight to see if there is low oil or anything (there are no lights lit up on the dash).
1. 1 month before I change my car battery.
2. Last night, after coming from Office i.e., around 50 KM drive. I witched off the car and had my dinner, let say after a gap of at least 3 hrs, I try to restart my car again but I could not. Even I can notice that the battery is not discharged as all lights are functioning properly & even center lock is working fine.
3. Then I use another car for jump start then the immediate car started. After driving for another 25 km, I switched off the car & try to restart again but I failed.
4. Today, after a gap of almost 15 hrs, again I tried to start the car then immediately it got started without showing any difficulties.
5. Again after driving around 20 km, again I switched off the car & try to restart then its not restarting.
I am confused, what could be the problem. Sometimes, it starting when the engine is cold & sometimes it's not starting when the engine is hot.
2005 Camry LE 4 cylinder, 141K miles.
For 6 months the battery light has been coming on intermittently, sometimes not coming on for two to three days and then does it again every so often during the fourth day and so on. Until recently, it's gone a record 6 days without coming on.
However, today it's stayed on all day. Usually, when it does come on, it will go back in in a minute or two. I'd gotten used to it, since the car has always started like nothing is wrong. However, tonight the ABS light came on with the battery light, then the Safety Bag light came on. Then, the radio died, clicking, static, then just dim light, The clock dimmed when the headlights were on, and the headlights weren't as bright as they should be. Stopped the car in a parking lot. Wouldn't not start again, but the dash would come on.
Got a jump and the car started up fine, but there wasn't enough power getting to anything to make the car do much of anything. The car didn't seem to have enough power to send to the transmission to shift, pressing the brake pedal made the dash go black.
Sat a while, got the car to start again, with a fight. Enough power to shift getting to the transmission, but quickly all the lights started coming on one by one again, and none of the lights were bright as they should be. Back to square one.
Just the battery? Replaced the alternator a year ago, when it killed the last battery. The current battery is a year to 13 months old.
Friday, May 13 I brought my car to the shop because the Check Engine light came on and the engine started loosing power. $540 later they had replaced both O2 sensors. A day later the light was back on. Brought the car back on Monday and they replaced one of the sensors that was defective according to them. One day later the light was back on. Brought the car back on Wednesday and they replaced the sensor again, telling me the brand was not compatible with my car. One day later night the light came back on. Brought the car back in Friday May 20 in the morning and they have my car since. They can't figure out whats wrong. A week before all that happed I had an oil leak and they replaced the oil filter and a seal. Could that be it?
View 2 RepliesI drive a 2005 Camry SE. In the mornings, when I start it up for the first time, my engine almost...growls. That's the only word I can think of. Not even growl. But instead of purring like a kitten, it purrs like a tiger . And it's only when I first back it out and then take off. Once it's good and warmed up, it drives and sounds perfectly. Shifts beautifully.
And this morning, I let it warm up for awhile and it didn't make any noise when I took off.
I talked to my coworker about it and she said she had a similar issue with her 2004 Saturn Vue and it was something about a manifold, but couldn't remember what it was called. And she said her mechanic was able to fix it, but only temporarily and then told her it would cost her big bucks to fix it permanently.
I just bought a Camry 05 v4. it has 79k mileage. I hear some noises from engine area; what is this annoying noise coming from?
Here is my recorded video.....
Noise comes from area of engine by belts and sounds like it might be a bearing. Thought it might just be because this is a timing chain engine. Engine well maintained. Any common issues with these? Difficult to check due to all the moving parts in that area. Read somewhere that water pumps go on these regularly. Not leaking any coolant but I guess it could be the bearing. It is just very difficult to isolate where the noise is coming from.
View 9 RepliesI just bought an 05' SE V6, with the 3.3 engine. Seemed to run good, had it checked by shop and they said it was a good buy, so i bought it. First day I owned it, took it to toyota dealership and had them do a 90, 000 mi service. did a timing belt, water pump, tranny flush, oil change. I got the car back, and it ran like crap! It would stumble on hard acceleration, and seem to even surge a bit at times. I took it right back? Service rep tried to say I put in diesel or bad gas. I only filled up with chevron premium, which is only gas i ever use. I know how to put gas in my tank!
Any how, they checked timing belt and said it was right, but the timing gear needed to be changed because one tooth looked rounded off. That didn't work either, still stumbled on acceleration, but idled perfect @ 675 rpms. So now the serv. manager gets involved, says he wants me satisfied. they then drained all my gas, then re-fill it. then flushed out all injectors. then put in all new plugs and PCV valve. I did a pressure test of fuel system, said it was good. While they were changing the plugs, they did a complete 6 cylinder compression test and scope analysis, and it came back good, too! I pick it up cause i got to go back. It ran a lot better but still stumbles on hard acceleration on highway. drove 1250 miles back, didn't use a drop of oil.
I did notice when I got 100 miles the temp gauge dropped all the way down to second mark on cold for a little bit, but went back to normal temp and stayed there through the last 1100 miles(that scared me, so i watched temp gauge like a hawk). And the outside temp was @ 62 degrees when the temp dropped at 1200 ft. Elevation...maybe it got stuck and is ok? My CEL has never came on through all this, and it does work, I have made sure of that.
I bought this car from original owner, and they had engine and heads just replaced in 2008 at 44,000 miles at toyota dealership under warranty fot 10,000 dollars. i verified this with that dealership 3 times with 3 different reps at that dealership. old owner said he was having problems with engine stumbling, and took it in twice and dealership said it was ok each time, not throwing any codes and sent him away saying car was ok.
Recently I have been experiencing some rough and low idles with my 1MZ-FE 05' Camry. The car runs idles perfectly fine and drops to the correct idle when cold, however if the engine has been running at normal temperature and started again soon after the idle drops extremely low until the throttle is opened.
I have cleaned the throttle body with with throttle body cleaner a number of times, although I haven't taken the IAC valve out and cleaned it separately. I have also heard that the Engine Coolant Temp valve may be going bad. Could my symptoms fit this?
I had a dodgy EGR sensor not long ago that was giving me rough idles on a cold start, however I managed to mitigate that problem a by cleaning simply removing the sensor and giving it a quick clean. I don't think that this is the cause but I can't be sure.
I haven't had the spark plugs or fuel filter changed in a while although I'm unsure that these would be the problem if the idle was rough and low only when the engine was warm.
This is about my mother's 2005 Camry (4 cyl., about 21,000 mi.). She called this evening and told me that the engine kept going for more than a minute after she shut it off. She didn't notice any problems with the engine while driving, only when she shut it down. I assume that the car has an electronic ignition, so I'm puzzled. The transmission parking rod was just repaired, but I don't see how that would be related. I suggested that she fill half-empty tank with premium gas from a national brand.
View 11 Replies2005 Camry XLE with 4 cylinder. Is it a good idea to change engine oil after replacing the water pump? Another words, is there a chance of getting antifreeze or debris in the engine oil when changing the pump or are the 2 separate in the 4 cyl. engine?
View 1 RepliesMy GF drives a '05 Camry V6 with 82k miles on it. Just the other night, out of no where my GF's car starts to have this high pitch whining coming from the engine.
I was about 20ft. away when she started the car and from there it sounded like the power steering was out of fluid.. made the exact same sound (any guy worth his whit knows the sound). After I opened the hood I realized it wasn't the PS. After a little trouble shooting the noise seems to be coming from the left side... thought it could be a belt at first, but after playing around I swear it's coming from the heater core/AC lines.
I can feel the vibration in them and when I was pinching them together and putting pressure on them sometimes the noise would lessen or completely go away. I had my GF rev the engine and one time (when I was holding the lines) the noise was completely gone for a few minutes.
I can't pinpoint the exact place the noise is coming from... but after googling it it seems that most of the time strange noises are coming from that area it's either the water pump bearing, alternator or TB.
I took a video, but you can't really hear the noise cause it's a crappy cell video.... but the noise is really loud.
I recently purchased a 2005 Camry XLE V6 (100K miles). Its in great condition and no issues except I am observing this:
-> When I come to stop (like at a stop sign), just before coming to complete stop, there is a slight forward jerk. When I come to stop slowly and smoothly, there is no problem.
the faster I come to stop the more severe is the jerk. I tried to search for answers on the web, one possibility is bad solenoid in the transmission.
On our 2005 Toyota Camry, we have recently noticed that the maintenance-required light takes a long time to go off when the ignition is cycled. This is true whether the engine is started immediately or the key is simply left in the ON position until proveout is completed.
The car is up to date on all services and we see no other signs of an impending problem. At the moment we do not have the ability to retrieve OBD-II diagnostic codes. What could be going on?