Camry :: 2005 - Dash / Cluster Dimmer Switch Isn't Working
Nov 20, 2015
I have an 05 4-cyl LE. The dash/cluster dimmer switch isn't working, but all the lights are on and at full blast. I removed the fuse panel cover and coin try. There was a set of wires and a plug just free floating back there (3 wires and a black clip). I could not see anything plugged into the dimmer so I figure that's there the plug goes? I can't get my chubby fingers up back there to plug it in and would like to remove the trim panel to gain access. I can't find anything out there on how to remove that panel.
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I just picked up my 2013 Passat and was out driving this evening and tried to dim the interior lights. The dimmer toggle to the left of the cluster doesn't work.
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2011 Silverado instrument panel dimmer won't reduce below about (subjectively) 40% intensity and cannot be turned off - still way to bright for old eyes on dark mountain roads. Dealer says its characteristic of the model and has no suggestions. Scan-tool results for dimmer potentiometer output reads 2.7 volts (9%) at minimum rotation, and 3 volts (100%) at max intensity. Scan-tool results for LED PWM drive signal reads 0% at minimum and 100% at max. The pulse width modulator (PWM) appears to be an imbedded component of the body control module (BCM) so is not accessible. The dimmer potentiometer is a component part of the headlights combo switch so is likewise not directly accessible.
Since I can't get to the potentiometer voltage divider circuit, if I add a fixed resistor to the output leg of the potentiometer and reduce the dimmer signal voltage by another 0.1 volt (to 2.6 volts out to BCM/PWM) will I set a BCM DTC or raise the voltage on the LED drive pulse to a damaging level? Alternatively, if I place a spst switch in the dimmer output signal, will the PWM simply switch off, or try to further decrease the drive pulse width? Last shot-in-the-dark question before I drag a scope out and start tapping into wires, how to find out what IC chip is used in the PWM?
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So I just got a new car tonight (01 Jetta 1.8t) traded my tdi for it. They failed to tell me about the lighting problem. The dash light (blue ones that light up whole dash) only work sometimes. Don't work when headlight switch is on (have euro switch) but they will work sometimes if you put the left blinker or hazard lights on. Illumination for window / lock controls are glowing red, same as all the buttons by the vents up top of the radio, ac / climate control lights not working. They did end up telling me that they swapped the other car they had (2L golf mk4) and they swapped in that dash and it worked no issues. Do I need a whole new cluster?? Or is there something I can try to fix it?
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Looking for the steps of how to remove the dash/cluster in the 04 camry? see, i want to change the bulbs in the cluster, but i dont know how to remove it? and do you know the bulb size off the top of your head?
Second: What is the name of the bulb that screws in the a/c control board, using a flat head screwdriver, you unscrew this green bulb from the back of the pannel, there are two bulbs, i need to know what they are called so i can order some new ones.
The info on this site about led info on all the bulbs is in fact not complete because it dont list the bulb size of the 04 camry dash cluster and it dont list the bulb for the a/c vent control
Also, what the speakers are called in the door and rear of car? see the 6x9 that were in the deck seem to look shallow mount speakers and the ones in the door seem to be special too because of the small magnet on them, how do i order the correct speaker the first time?
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All interior lights (window switches, gauges, etc.) are all out. Headlights work, map lights work. He told me the dimmer switch is very warm all the time, but everything attached is out. Would it be a faulty dimmer switch? I had him check all the fuses, relays, but they're all good. I was wondering if he would need a new dimmer switch all together.
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I have a 1941 Oldsmobile and when I hit the headlight dimmer switch to select high beams my headlights cut out . My car has all original wiring and I suspect a short at one of the terminal blocks. I am unsure how to troubleshoot this problem. I cannot select my model number below I have a model 76 Dynamic Cruiser.
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Yesterday I noticed an extremely weird noise coming from the engine bay in my 2004 SE I4 5spd. I've pin pointed it to be a bad alternator diodes. During my testing, I also noticed that my battery light/warning discharge/charge warning light on the cluster/dash does not work.
I know by turning the key into the 'ON' position should illuminate all the dash cluster warning lights that associate with your model (i.e. ABS, TRACT, OIL), but the dash light for the battery light does not turn on. I've verified that even by disconnecting the alternator's cables (the 1 line and the 4 pin connector) and then starting the car, the battery light does not turn on to indicate a discharge situation/bad charging system. I have verified with my other 2004 XLE V6 auto Camry that by leaving the car in the 'ON' position will keep the warning lights on.
See right of the airbag light, no battery light illuminated. Door and seatbelt light does work, I just had door close and caught the blinking seat belt light off when pic was taken.
Reference below is my 2004 Camry XLE V6
I tried checking some fuses in the cabin and engine bay. All the ones I looked checked out okay. Could it be the LED for the battery light is blown/dead?
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OK. I just had a major repair on my 2001.5 Passat where they had to remove the dashboard. Now some of the little lights are out. You know the ones that are around the vents. The light on the vent on the far left that blows on the drivers left hand side. And the lights on the 2 middle vents are out. Will they now have to remove the whole dashboard to repair these lgihts? Also the light on the radio display appears a little dimmer now.
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Did a search but no results. Starting to get our first dose of cold weather here in PA. Temps were around 30 and car was garaged all night. Went out yesterday morning and noticed slower than normal starting like the battery was low. The rest of the day the car started fine. Went out this morning and the car was dead. Had dash lights but they were dim. Clicking but no crank. After returning from work, dash lights were even dimmer than before like something was draining the battery. Called VW assistance and had someone jump the car to get it started. Drove it to the dealership.
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Instrument cluster (speedometer, Tachometer, Break & ABS light) is not working while driving.
My video for my 2009 camry 2.4 LE is here: [URL] .....
Toyota service center asked $6000 to replace wire harness and PROBABLY electronic control unit.
I found some posts, but the answers are not that clear to fix it. [URL] ....
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I recently installed a new car stereo in my 05 CRV to replace the factory unit which had a broken CD player. Everything appeared to go fine, but I noticed at night that when the Head Light switch was turned on, only the top half of the dash lights would turn on, the lights for the AC/Heater failed to light, and the PRNDD1D2 lights which work fine in the day (sans the drive light not working, but that's been the case for a year now) would turn off. I've checked the fuses and found no blown ones, although the fact that the top half of the dash lights still turn on made a blown fuse seem less likely.
The lights that are left on will still dim/brighten when the dimmer knob is turned, and I noticed that if I pull the small lights fuse the dash lights don't work, but the PRNDD1D2 lights remain lit even with the headlights on. I've tried removing and re installing the factory stereo to see if there was a short in the new wiring harness, but that changed nothing. As is the car is still drivable, as the top half of the dash lights is enough to make all the gauges readable, but it's still a bit annoying. Any clues as to what I've done, and is there a reasonably cheap fix to the problem?
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I have a fuse blowing in my 98 Citation that is in the panel light/exterior running lights (front and back). Could the short be in the dimmer switch in the dashboard or is that unlikely?
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We have been having this ongoing issue with the ventilation system in our 2013 Camry XLE during cold outside temperatures since last fall.
When the system is in the auto setting and set around 70-72 deg. F, the system delivers a comfortable temperature from the floor vents or a combination of the floor vents and defrost. The temperature that I measure is usually in the 100-115 deg. F range. After about 20 - 30 minutes of driving, the system will switch on the dash vents along with the floor vents. At this time the temperature coming out of the dash vents is cold and frequently measured as low as 53 deg. F. Along with this the floor vents are still delivering warm air. Been an automatic system I would expect the supply temperature to modulate to maintain the cabin temperature to the desired setting but not in this manner. All this is on overcast very cold winter days.
I drove the vehicle the other day when the outside temp was around 12 deg. F with the sun shining resulting in a bit of a greenhouse effect inside. With the control set at 70 deg. F and in auto I noticed that the air was only coming out of the dash vents and was a bit warmer this time (about 60 deg. F). This scenario is a bit more acceptable although the floor area was cold as expected considering the cold outside temperature.
I have taken the car to our dealer who has tried to diagnose the situation and have replaced one sensor that resulted in no change. They have been in contact with Toyotas technical dept. as well for assistance. They are indicating that all the air comes from one box and it is impossible to get colder air from the dash vents. Obviously with our current situation this is not the case. The service manager at the dealer was hoping to test the operation of another similar vehicle but so far has been unsuccessful.
This has been going on since last fall after my wife complained about it and was not happening the previous winter. Presently when this situation occurs we switch the control to manual damper control to shut off the cold air blowing in our faces.
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Does the UK gen2 Tspirit have a dimmer control for the dash panel and steering wheel lights. I can control the MFD but the speedo is to dark with head lights on in daylight hours in poor visibility.
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So, if you've ever replaced bulbs in your Prius you'll notice that the rear taillight assembly has a light source on the very top that you just can't replace.
It appears to have a similar release collar than the lower bulbs but this fails to release.
So, I've been told by my Toyota dealer that they will have to replace the ENTIRE right rear tail-light housing since those bulbs are LEDs and as such are non replaceable.
What if the left side does the same thing not long after? Where the very top portion of the taillights are dimming to invisibility? Any better method for replacing this?
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My A/C works fine, but the A/C switch light is not working. So i don't know if A/C on&off when i drive in the evening. Which part I need to replace and what is the part number?
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The illumination for my headlight switch and my shift-on-the-fly switch is not working. How do I replace the bulbs?
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I have a 2005 excursion with about 112,000 miles and last week all 5 doors decided to stop working on me when trying to lock or unlock with the remote or the door switch. I do hear a sound like something is happening just right of the fuse box. I did a little research and found that this is a wide spread problem. I did order 4 of the 5 actuators and I replaced the drivers door but nothing yet. Do they all have to be replaced in order to work? Or is it most likely something else causing this? Just trying to figure it out before I install the other actuators or take it in to a shop.
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2005 camry ... How do i replace the dash power outlet? I have the heating and air panel out and the bottom of the outlet panel unsnapped. I can't figure out how the top comes loose.
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My dad just got a 2012 Camry LE, with the 4 cylinder engine. The heater seems to be working fine except for the floor vents. When I select that option on the HVAC control, I can hear the fan working but there's absolutely no airflow coming out from under the dash.
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