Camry :: 2005 / Chugging Under Power Or Accelerate Hard
Nov 17, 2015
I bought a used 05 Camry with 98,000 miles for what I thought was a good deal. The car needed struts, sway bar links, and a little body work, all things I was capable of. The car runs great under light load, but has a terrible chug when you kick down a gear, or accelerate hard. The kicker here, it doesn't throw any codes! I've read a little bit on here and tried a couple things (cleaned throttle body, replaced MAF) with no luck.
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We recently bought a used 2005 Camry LE 4cyl 2.4L. When we test drove it there were hardly any symptoms and no CEL. After driving it for a week we start feeling a stuttering every once in a while, no CEL still so I thought it might just need a tune up.
Replaced the plugs (which were in bad shape, were Iridiums, friend mentioned it seemed like they were burnt, white blistering like high RPM burn) with new NGK Platinums and replaced the air filter (was also in bad shape, was K&N that was badly clogged up and black).
Drove it around, let it idle, turn on AC, no problem not a hiccup. Next day arrives and the car is misfiring worse than before. CEL comes on too. We get the codes and its the P0304 I mention in the title.
We check the coils and the plugs and they fire, we switch coil 4 and 1 and clear the CEL, then later the CEL comes back on and it's still P0304 so we rule out the coils. The plugs come pre-gapped also.
The misfires are at their worst when idling and trying to accelerate hard, I can hold it at 2000-3000 RPMs with no hiccups or very few ones. Misfires worse with AC on.
Only thing left to do is check compression, try to clean the injector with fuel additive and premium gasoline, or replace the injector, at least that's what I think.
It has 86000 miles.
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While i am pulling a loaded trailer we have been experiencing a random Chug that only last about 1 second we have no lose of power during when it happens. We Recently just replaced all fuel Filters. We have an updated EGR on it with a cold air intake and muffler delete. It has about 180000 miles on it it runs awesome and starts right up just trying to figure what this problem could be..
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I have '98 Transport Montana and I took it on a trip last weekend on the expressway. I would be doing 70 MPH and approach a hill and start depressing the accelerator to maintain my speed and I could feel a chugging. Also, I could hear the engine seem to make a change in its sound coincident with the chugging. The RPMs at this point were around 2K. It's a 3.4 and all of the normal stuff has been maintained properly (spark plugs, filters, etc.).
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I have a 2005 volvo s40 ion a cold day when i start car and take off it bogs, there is no pep it seems like its struggling, after a couple minutes of driving she is back to normal. I replaced spark plugs - no difference...
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I bought a new toyota camry L# 2013 a month ago. The gas pedal seems very firm and need to really press hard to accelerate. My initial thought was that it being a new one it might be firm and would loosen up gradually. Its been a month and more than 1000+ miles, but the pedal is still very rigid and I am feeling leg pain because of it (I am driving 52 miles to and from work). Not sure if it is common feature or mine is behaving that way.
BTW - I also own 1999 camry and the gas pedal is very smooth and responsive.
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I have a 2004 Nissan Xterra that has been chugging for a few months now. The problem is intermittent and only happens about once or twice a week when driving, but when it starts to chug (feels like it is running out of gas, jerky, will not accelerate) it is unsafe to drive on the freeway. I have taken it to several places and no one can figure out the problem. It was pulling two codes the speed sensor on the transmission PO500 - and the knock sensor code was coming up along with that. I had the speed sensor replaced twice and checked the wiring. We replaced the fuel filter, checked the fuel pump with a fuel gage and fuel lines, replaced the distributor cap and rotor, put in a new MAF sensor and still nothing is working to remedy the chugging. My last stop is replacing the knock sensor for $600, the problem is that the Nissan Mechanics (I visited two dealerships in different cities) told me not to replace this as it would not cause chugging. Several other mechanics around town tell me that they are wrong and I do need to replace it.
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I own a 1986 Chevy Silverado C10. I have replaced much of the truck in the seven years i have owned it, including the engine about 35,000 miles ago. The modulator valve on the transmission became unbolted from the transmission housing a while back (the "tab" of the transmission housing actually cracked off). The truck lost power when this happened and most of the transmission fluid leaked out before i realized something was wrong , stopped and called a tow.
I replaced the modulator and secured it with a "Z" shaped clip made of roughly 10 gauge steel that bolts to the modulator and then to the frame that suspends the transmission. Then i noticed a loss of power up hill and the truck has trouble accelerating over 45-50 mph., possibly has trouble shifting into over drive "?".
I replaced the detent cable next, and changed the transmission fluid, filter, and gasket while i was at it. I have also replaced plugs and wires, and done a general tune up since then, but i still have trouble on hills and accelerating on the highway. I drive up a hill every day coming home from work and the truck slows to roughly 25mph, even if i start the hill at 45mph., and it climbs slow and seems very bogged down. Something to check before i assume the transmission needs replaced.
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My 2004 Elantra occasionally won't start. When I hold the ignition on Start, the radio loses power (but the dashboard doesn't) and nothing else happens. Sometimes, tapping the gas pedal will suddenly cause the car to start. Once, I had to stomp the pedal to the floor before it would work.
I just replaced the battery (and positive cable end since it was corroded in place) and recently replaced the spark plugs (which were badly burnt). There is a check engine code for "catalyst underperforming" which seems unrelated.
I suspect my car has fuel delivery problems. It occasionally sputters while idling and often has power loss while driving if I try to accelerate hard. It seems to have trouble shifting into 4th gear from 3rd or 5th, but that may be another issue entirely.
What I should check to diagnose this, or replace to resolve it?
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Everytime i accelerate medium to hard with the CEL on like this it starts flashing and i loose power. Feels like a sputtering (in idle too). Fuel injection system cleaned and was 75% better for 1 week, but now back to same old. Reset CEL and comes back 100-200 miles later. Cam tensioner? Fuel filter? Coil packs? One of my fan clutches is pretty much out, related?
New spark plugs, maybe needs a tune up...supposedly TB was changed, but i have 106K on 1.8T 2001.5 Passat. New oil pump, timing belt tensioner put on. However A/C belt snapped and had to be put back on then tightened to work. Maybe they didn't adjust correctly at shop the timing belt tensioner?
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I have an 01 hyundai accent. When I press the accelerator the car chugs and shakes and i have a hard time getting any power when accelerate. It takes too much time to get up speed. The power is not well transmitted to the tires.What could be the problem?
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1996 Mazda Protege, 133224 miles, mostly city driving, automatic transmission
This weekend the car started bucking, problems shifting into gear, chugging, slight odor of oil, very slow moving. This morning (in my pf's) I ran the Scan OBDII and there were no error messages. I checked fluids and they were fine.
Possible problems? I am at a decision point, get rid of the car (needs tires, front brakes and it burns a bit of oil each month (1-2 cups) or fix it.
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I just bought an 05' SE V6, with the 3.3 engine. Seemed to run good, had it checked by shop and they said it was a good buy, so i bought it. First day I owned it, took it to toyota dealership and had them do a 90, 000 mi service. did a timing belt, water pump, tranny flush, oil change. I got the car back, and it ran like crap! It would stumble on hard acceleration, and seem to even surge a bit at times. I took it right back? Service rep tried to say I put in diesel or bad gas. I only filled up with chevron premium, which is only gas i ever use. I know how to put gas in my tank!
Any how, they checked timing belt and said it was right, but the timing gear needed to be changed because one tooth looked rounded off. That didn't work either, still stumbled on acceleration, but idled perfect @ 675 rpms. So now the serv. manager gets involved, says he wants me satisfied. they then drained all my gas, then re-fill it. then flushed out all injectors. then put in all new plugs and PCV valve. I did a pressure test of fuel system, said it was good. While they were changing the plugs, they did a complete 6 cylinder compression test and scope analysis, and it came back good, too! I pick it up cause i got to go back. It ran a lot better but still stumbles on hard acceleration on highway. drove 1250 miles back, didn't use a drop of oil.
I did notice when I got 100 miles the temp gauge dropped all the way down to second mark on cold for a little bit, but went back to normal temp and stayed there through the last 1100 miles(that scared me, so i watched temp gauge like a hawk). And the outside temp was @ 62 degrees when the temp dropped at 1200 ft. Elevation...maybe it got stuck and is ok? My CEL has never came on through all this, and it does work, I have made sure of that.
I bought this car from original owner, and they had engine and heads just replaced in 2008 at 44,000 miles at toyota dealership under warranty fot 10,000 dollars. i verified this with that dealership 3 times with 3 different reps at that dealership. old owner said he was having problems with engine stumbling, and took it in twice and dealership said it was ok each time, not throwing any codes and sent him away saying car was ok.
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I was driving my 02 camry se v6 last night and I got up to about 85 mph and it wouldn't accelerate anymore. I checked my fluids and everything seems legit and it shifts good, but there was thin white smoke coming from the trans dipstick.
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Our 2002 Camry is in very good condition with ~75k miles. The other day we went to start the car up and it wouldn't turn over. The car would turn a couple of times and then start clicking. We jumped the car and I hopped in to take it to our local mechanic. I instantly noticed during the entire trip to the mechanic that the idle was very slow and chugging. Like it wanted to die anytime I was stopped.
I got to the mechanic and pulled in the lot. The car died. However, I was able to start it up again with no issues. A day later I get a call from the mechanic telling me that they had no issues starting the car whatsoever. They said the battery was a little weak so they replaced it (it was the original battery). I was also told that I might consider changing the spark plugs in the near future. Otherwise they said the car was running great.
After getting the car home I am once again noticing the low/chugging idle. It doesn't seem anywhere near as bad as before, but it is there sometimes.
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Don't know where to start so I'll ramble!
2005 f350 with the 6.0. Crew Cab, 8' box, 4x4 with DRW. I use it only take the boat to the launch 5 minutes away once in a while and to pull car trailers every other week. Majority of driving is on the highway and average trip is about 300 miles. Low power and now no start.
No codes. I do have a scan Gauge and can provide data.
Was running this week, but has had a lack of power for some time. I had put 2 new injectors in last summer. Also updated dummy and stand pipes. Blue spring. Also new IPR at the time.
Ficm board was replaced in March.
New injector harness last year. New Glow plug harness last year.
Coolant level is fine and none being lost.
CAC hoses appear fine, no cracks.
No boost. But newer MAP sensor, hose not cracked or plugged and nipple on intake is clear. Put the MAP sensor last year and it didn't make a difference.
Turbo was rebuilt 2 years ago.
IPR has to hit close to 80 before boost hits 12-15. But it takes a while to get there.
Now won't start.
Yesterday am it was about 30 farenheit and no start. Last year would start no problem.
Batteries are fine. tested.
Engine fires within 3 seconds, but doesn't want to run.
ICP is above 500. climbs as I turn over.
Fires only in first few seconds and then nothing while I keep cranking it. it is cranking fast enough though.
Now...I see IPR will hit 84.7% and then 14.8%. Not good!
When running it sits in between.
FICm voltage is 48.5 key one and 47.5 when cranking.
Wondering if possibly IPR screen is plugged? Or would CKS or CPS cause issues? I recall reading about pulling one of them and cleaning rust off of it? Also...should mention, no EGR reading on scan gauge..never was either. I had checked and cleaned egr valve before. it was clean when I pulled it and not sticking.
Intake had been cleaned 2years ago. Also, on occasion, while pulling up hill, I would get power! Black smoke and it would race up a hill like it's supposed. Then it would go back to no power.
Also...if I pull the MAP hose from the intake nipple, should I feel suction from the intake? There doesn't appear to be any air coming or going from the nipple.
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My 2009 Camry has been making an odd noise where it kind of sounds like a smooth chugging noise. The wheel has been making this sound for sometime now, we've taken it into one auto shop and they say it's most likely a dry wheel bearing. I've added a link to a video I took while in the car yesterday. You can only really hear the sound the wheel makes with some headphones on FYI.
The car has close to 100,000 miles on it, but well maintained. Recently added some new brakes but this noise was occurring before the change.
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I have a 2005 Toyota Camry LE 4 cylinder, and I have been trying to figure out a hard cold start issue that also causes whitish grayish smoke to come out of the tailpipe when I first start the car.
When I first start the car after it has sitting at least 8-10+ hours the engine will crank over and being starting up but its almost as if it hesitates and then fully starts up. Once it does start the smoke will come out of the tailpipe for about 10 - 30 seconds and smells somewhat of burning fuel. I think the problem may be a leaking fuel injector. When I use my car during the day this issue doesn't happen at all after first startup
Coolant level and color : Normal no changes
Oil Color and level : Normal no changes
Tune Up: Done about 2 months ago
I uploaded a video to youtube of the car starting up here [URL] ....
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One evening, I started my car but it shut off right after 2 3 seconds, then check engine light and battery light came ON.
Started again, it ran like normal with check engine light ON. After 2 3 miles, car started chugging & surging before the engine shut off completely. Started again, it ran just fine.
Next day, I took my car to the shop. They found out that P0351, 0352, 0353, 0355, 0356 codes. Then, they replaced 5 ignition coils for $600. But the problem was still there.
I took my car to the shop again, they replaced 2 variable timing valves. Cost $400. Unfortunately, it would not solve the problem. Third solution, they replaced my timing belt. Problem remained unsolved.
However, the check engine light turned itself off when my car ran fine. It turned back on again when my car started chugging & surging and stopped. It has been happening for 1 month. 2 3 times a day, especially in the early morning when the weather is cold and the evening.
At noon, my car just runs fine without any problems, even the check engine light turned itself OFF.
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First post since I bought my powerstroke. I was looking for some diagnostics.
On my way to work this morning and the truck started chugging like it was wanting to die and had no power, the pedal was to the floor and I was barely moving. I was able to nurse it to a parking space at work and pulled the codes, using the Torque pro. This was what I pulled:
P0284 - Cylinder #8 contribution/balance
P0299 - Underboost
P0611 - FICM
P0401 - EGR
P0671 - Cylinder 1 glow plug
On the way home I didn't even hit 5 miles and started into the same symptoms. So I decided to call for a tow, because my commute is about 60 miles one way. In waiting for the tow truck I disconnected the batteries and reconnected them thinking that it might "reset" something. I started it up and the same thing occurred, so I tried revving it up, and starting it up and shutting it down on and off for about an hour. Thinking I picked up some bad fuel. Drove it for a short distance and found things were getting better. I was able to make it home and pulled the codes again. It came up with these:
P0284
P0603 - Internal Control Mod.
P0611
P1000
Also on the ride home I had excessive amounts of black smoke from the exhaust and found a couple of large drops of oil on the driveway where i normally park, larger than what I normally see.
So my question would be what is the cause of all of this?
A little about the truck. it is a F250 CCSB with about 139xxx miles on the clock. I bought it from my brother when he had it he had the FICM replaced (with the 58V option) and the Bullet proof EGR installed. I replaced the fuel spring with the blue one shortly after I bought it.
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I have a 05 f250 with a 5.4 I'm having issues with I was driving along the truck started chugging along and the check engine light came on so I checked it with my bully dog the codes that came up were p0192 which is fuel pressure sensor circuit low the next one is p0452 is evaporative emission pressure sensor switch low also came up with p0191 tonight haven't dug into that yet.
I change out the pressure sensor switch from a buddies truck didn't make a difference put my sensor in his truck his worked fine I clean the throttle position sensor and The maf also put a new air filter on not throwing a misfire code but seems like it may be. A little background on the truck it's a 5.4 3valve with a bully dog tuner, mufflers been removed added straight pipe mechanically that's all that's done
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