My 2005 Camry check engine light came on and cruise control started acting strange. Took it to the local parts store and it gave the P0500 code. I was going to replace the speed sensor, but found two very similar sensors in the transmission. One has a slightly longer metal post extending out of it. Both are two prong connectors.
View 1 Replies2006 Toyota Avalon 72000 miles
Plugs and coil have been switched between Banks 1,3,5 with 2,4,6 code P0355 shows the same cylinder 5 after the switch. What's the difference between a PCM and ECU and which one do I have.
I have an 08 avalon w/ 281k miles. NEED to replace the transmission speed sensor (P0500 code thrown). Where is it located on the trans and what is the part #? I'm thinking about servicing the trans while I'm there but looks like a lot of "comments" regarding this transmission and the problems with servicing it!?
View 9 RepliesCurrently I haven't been tweaking anything to my car after driving to go and home I left to go get something to eat and after driving for a few min out of nowhere the engine light, brake and abs comes up. So I freak out a pull over to the nearest gas station and turn my engine off for 2 min and turn it back on and this time only the engine light come up. So I drove to autozone to get it scan and error p0500 comes up. Which means short circuit, vss and poor electricity something I am not exact but is it serious? Like I am freaking out right now.
View 1 RepliesRecently, my I4 XLE camry with abs came up with a cel P0500 - Vehicle Speed Sensor A Malfunction. Where the vehicle speed sensor is located? i doubt this thing's hard to service, but so far i have no luck finding it.
View 13 RepliesI purchased this car used last year. It is a 2002 Camry with a 4cyl 2.4L and an automatic transmission, with 75,000 miles on it. The car was driven about 7 months and a little over 2000 mile before the problem started.
I had a P0500 code read by dealer after check engine light came on. The vehicle kind of surged and the motor rpm increased and I seem to loose power. I also told them the tach and speedometer started jumping around. This only last a minute or so and then runs normal. They tested the vehicle speed sensor and said it was working fine and reset the light. After driving it a couple hundred miles the light came on again and they did the same thing. The next time it came on they decided the signal from the sensor going through the cluster (speedometer and tach) might be where the problem lies, since the signal went through there before going to the ecm.
They could not guarantee this was the source, but it was their best diagnosis since the car would not repeat the fluctuating power problem. I went ahead and replaced the cluster and drove it about 1 month and 250 miles before the light came on again. It is the same code P0500. I forgot to mention that the 3rd time the check engine light came on they said they also pulled a P1730 code. The car runs fine after the initial check engine light comes on.
No matter what gear I put the car in the car does not move. I reversed the car to move it and my the gear selector was hit into drive while making a reverse movement. I then proceed to drive forward and it took a higher rpm to move the car. While the car is in the air the wheels sometimes move slightly at high Rpms.
The car threw a P0500, P0746 and P2714 code so I replaced the valve body. Still nothing.
2010 RX350 check engine light is on code P0500 came up it said speed sensor A...
View 1 RepliesMy Avalon 2006 A/C system was diagnosed with Freon leaks. Mechanic can not locate the leak and he feels it will be from the evaporator down the dash board. He is talking about a $1000.00 job plus one week of the car in the shop. My question is:
1) What the probabilities are that the leak is down the dash?
2) It will be a very intense labor or is anyway to make more simple job?
3) Would a dealer do a better job with the diagnose?
My 2003 with 150K miles has had the blinking A/C light problem for the past year or so. I ran the diagnosis, got the 22 code, so it seems the clutch needs to be adjusted or replaced. If I leave the A/C on Max with the fan on at Max, the A/C works fine (for at least as long as my daily commute, about 40 mins). Once I turn the fan down or turn Max off, the lights start blinking within 5-10 minutes and the A/C doesn't work. Is this consistent with the clutch problem?
View 5 RepliesA few months back, my wife (2007 Prius) was telling me that she had some stuff going on with it. I found the diagnostic test for the 12 v battery and it failed. So I replaced the 12v and everything was fine until about two weeks ago. Two weeks ago, she got a check engine light. Then she stopped the car and when she fired back up again, the light was extinguished. So, I figured no big deal. Yesterday, she went to leave and the car was lit up like a Christmas tree. So she took my truck to work and left me a note about this. She figured I would drive my garage queen Vette... but I chose to drive the Prius to see if I could figure out some things, which I did.
Here is everything that I noticed thus far:
First, I will start with lights. Brake System Warning light is on, Check engine malfunction indicator is on, Red triangle with exclamation point Master warning light is on, VSC Vehicle stability control system warning light is on. Then on the tv screen panel, the Hybrid system warning light is on. I ran down to O'Reilly's to see what codes it pulled, and this is what I have: C0200 Right VSS, C0205 Left VSS, C1259 Regenerative Malfunction, C1310 Malfunction H/V System, P1121 Coolant flow control, X2 Valve Sensor Circuit stack, P0A80 Replace Hybrid Battery Pack, P3015 Battery Block 5 Becomes Weak, P3016 Battery Block 6 becomes weak, and then a few more repeats.
What I have looked at and what I have noticed/experienced thus far; At the beginning of the day yesterday, when stopped at a light, the engine would turn on and then shut off frequently (approx every 20 seconds). A lot more than normal. As of today, the engine just stays on constantly... even after the battery indicator shows full, it stays running. The battery cooling fan stays running. Sometimes the car lacks power at start out, When slowing down, I tried selecting the "B" as I know that it would normally work as a trans brake and regenerate power, it doesn't seem to be doing that and it seems as though the tranny doesn't know exactly what to do. I checked the 12v battery again through the diagnostic and it says it was at 12.2v so that should be good. I noticed that the battery indicator will show full and then just drop down to one bar and then go back up to full and stay at full for a while. Lastly, I saw the inverter check and I did that by turning the car on (ready on) and I can see the fluid moving around and I can feel it in the tube and the fluid level is good.
It sounds to me as if the ECM/ECU may be bad. Or maybe the HV battery. I was leaning towards the ECM/ECU just because of all of the different fluctuations, but with electrical stuff, it could very well be the battery.
I have an '01 Prius with ~80,000 miles now. I bought it with a known brake issue, however upon further diagnosis, it appears the problem is with the Brake accumulator.
View 10 RepliesJust used Carista to switch to a single beep when reversing. Whilst I was in the app, just out of curiosity, I checked for error codes. B1423 appeared. I didn't expect to see anything as the car is brand new.
View 8 RepliesHad CEL light come on with the code P0106 barometric pressure sensor.
View 2 RepliesI just replaced my timing belt. Checked it at TDC several times, even after releasing the tensioner. Now Im getting a
17748 - Camshaft Position Sensor (G40) / Engine Speed Sensor (G28): Incor. Correlation
P1340 - 001 - Upper Limit Exceeded
I have the code P0500 on my 2009 Matrix. The odometer doesn't function, all error lights are on, the power steering is not completely out but it's reduced. Also, the rear windshield wiper is constantly on. I replaced the vehicle transmission sensor today because I thought that would fix it all. It had absolutely no effect.
View 5 RepliesI have read several of the post on here about speedo's acting up, but I'm not finding anything that pertains to my specific problem. A few months ago I bought a 2000 Excursion, it currently has around 179,000 miles on it. When I got it the ABS light was on and this site is actually where I found out to replace the sensor on the rear end to fix that. My problem is that until a few weeks ago even with the ABS light on my speedo worked just fine and then it started acting up every time I hit the brake pedal and then eventually quit working all together and my cruise control light would flash as well as the OD light.
I replaced the sensor in the rear end and also found out about a recall for the cruise control and had that repaired as well. Now the ABS light is no longer on and the cruise light is not flashing, however the OD light still flashes and 95% of the time my speedo does not work at all. On Monday while heading to town it started working, hit the brakes and all was good, set the cruise control and used it all the way to town, but as soon as I hit the brakes the needle started jumping around and went back to zero and stayed there. I have ohmed the sensors and wires from sensors to harness under the hood and all seems good. The only code I can pull with my meter is P0500 which is just a generic code.
I have around 68k miles on my 2009 Prius and just got a CEL, the Red Triangle with an exclamation point, an intermittently occurring VSC light, and an intermittently occurring yellow circle with an exclamation point on the upper dash display. I also have a car shaped icon with an exclamation point on my main display (ICE?). My scan tool shows P0093 as the only code.
View 19 RepliesI have a 2005 Prius with 98,000 miles on the clock, two weeks ago, the engine check light came on and I plugged in a "V-Checker OBD II reader.
Read the code P0420 and reset. Don't get bogged down regarding the P0420 code as this is just background to what happened next. The P0420 code has not come on again, reset was done last week.
Removed the OBD reader and noticed the VSC+ABS+Braking+Handbrake lights on, car drives OK, braking not quite what was, notice kind of "afterthought" when the brake pedal released. The Ready light does not come on, but the car starts fine and drives . I am sure the OBD reader caused the VCS etc problem, because there was no issues in that area until the OBD reader used, and in the minute or so of plugging it in, the VSC lights are on.
Code now present are C1203 and C1345.
Tried the Pin TC + CH pin procedures without success. Took to an independent Toyota Specialist, he did manage to clear the lights, but they came back on within half a mile during test drive. Could not clear lights after that. He recommended changing the 12V battery, which we did, but did not clear lights.
I bought my Prius after I tested the car around town and on the highway and went smoothly. I drove the car about 200 km after the warning came on board, high temperature and cold engine warning (red and blue). Stopped the car and I found nothing to be hot (engine or inverter).
I rebooted and the errors disappeared but reappeared and on the highway (120 km) car no longer accelerate, pedal did not respond.Stopped and restarted repeatedly trying to get as close to home and a Toyota service. High and low temperature have appeared and disappeared after stopped and restarted. Warnings appear together, none or only one of them.
But after 600 km appeared turtle on board and the car stopped. I was unable to start. They came from Toyota and were able to start with another auxiliary battery and ran 10 km with a tester on the dashboard (at full throttle and the car accelerated 1 km / sec until it reached 60 km / h then accelerated normal to 125km/h. When he put the foot on brake and after that tried to accelerate again the pedal was non responsive and the car stopped again and they towed it.
Next day they told me that the ECU is faulty (the one located behind the glove compartment) together with the Auxiliary Battery.(1100 Euro ECU).They told me that the temperature sensor is 200 degrees Celsius with a cold engine.
We towed the car to another service closer to home (1300 km) and asked a second opinion telling me that is defective inverter. I decided to buy an ECU. (220 Euro/ second hand)
Meanwhile my traction battery died after they tried to start the car many times.
After I charged the traction battery (one module at a time), whole battery shown after charging 301 V.
Now I have the following :
P3120 HV transaxle / Wire harness
INF. Code 249 (Open or +B short in motor temperature sensor)
The car quit on the road and I diagnosed a bad fuel pump. Multiple tests confirmed the pump had failed. While we were doing the diagnosis, I noticed some strange behavior when monitoring voltage to the pump. While supply voltage was present during cranking, none was applied to the pump when the key was first turned to accessory. I decided to chase one thing at a time and replaced the pump (and fuel filter, since it had been too long since last replacement and I wanted to "cover all bases").
After pump replacement, I opened the coupling in the supply line before the fuel rail to confirm proper operation. When the key was initially turned to accessory (multiple times to prime everything), there was NO fuel flow. When we then cranked it, fuel was present very quickly. After reconnecting the line, a couple of rounds of cranking got the fuel pressure up and the car started and ran perfectly. A quick VAG-COM check showed no codes. I test drove it and then shut it down. Immediately after shut down, I switched the key to accessory and the fuel pump started right up. After doing this 4-5 times with a few minutes pause in between, I pronounced the car "good" and finished up.
This morning, I jumped in, turned the key to accessory and heard......nothing. No fuel pump running for the normal 2-3 seconds. I cranked it and it took two rounds of 4-5 sec cranks for it to fire and run (normally). I assumed it needed time to build fuel pressure. I then drove it for 20 minutes, parked it for 45 minutes and when I restarted it, it took a longer than normal crank period (maybe 3 seconds) to fire and I did NOT hear the pump run in accessory position. The rest of the day was with short stops and I could always hear the pump start in accessory and the car always fired up instantly. I have the Bentley CD and analyzed the wiring harness. It looks like the fuel pump relay is only commanded to operate by the ECU - there is no external input to the relay coil I can see (ground or B+).
The bottom line is that SOMETIMES the pump is commanded to run in ignition switch accessory position and sometimes it isn't. The "isn't" always seems to be after the car has sat for a while. Is there any combination of failed sensors that would cause the ECU to NOT command the pump to run for it's few seconds in accessory position ? Obviously, the next step is the FP relay but I hate to just throw parts at the car without some sort of troubleshooting and the repeatability of the problem with sitting time leads me to believe it may be more of a relay DRIVE problem then the relay itself.